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Posted

Hi. Starting my 3rd wooden ship build. I couldn't get back into my previous handle of LMDAVE nor could get a password request, so I created LMDAVE29. Previous builds were MS Bluenose and Endeavour racing Yacht.

 

I'm starting this Spanish Galeon build, SFII, and I've heard that the AL kit had hard to follow insturctions. I didn't go through it in great detail, but very impressed with the full size high resolution color picture of the complete build pointing out all sections, and a manual in about 7 languages. So maybe they updated it since I've read those reviews.

 

I would like to give this build a more used look instead of the brand new look presented on the box. I don't want to relic it much, but mainly a more used deck, and canons. So, may be looking for ideas as I approach that on how to acheive it.

 

For now all I have it the box contents.

 

l-411682416.jpg

Posted (edited)

Ah this brings back memories. This was my first build. Since I've got to say compared to some of the other AL kits I've put together the book with pictures and instructions are realitively nice. Good luck on her! Look forward to seeing the progress.

Edited by Sephirem

Tim

Current builds: San Fran II AL, Santa Maria AL

Finished Builds: Sharpie Shooner Midwest

Posted

Thanks Tim.

 

Well, moving right along, starting with the keel and bulkheads, I immediately see the section Ortho85 was talking about with how the bulkhead meet the keel. Looking at the picture in the instructions, no where do it tell you to cut or shave the bottom to look like the on in the picture. But after measuring the rudder the was included, if I shave up, it would be too long. So I'll plank that section flat since it will be capped with a walnut piece later..

 

Instruction Manual pic

411686623.jpg

 

My Picture.

411686622.jpg

Posted

I guess I take back my original statement, yes the pictures look nice, but the instructions a VERY vague and skip a lot of instruction.

 

Anyway, Moved on with shaping the bulkhead and keel for the right curvature, then moved on to the deck.

 

Now these deck planks (3/16") 5mm, are what they call for, but you can see in the drawings they look about half the width, I don't know if someoen used 3/32 width as an option, or scribed a line down the middle, or actually cut these? They don't mention the option, but I see from previous builds most just left it as this size, which translates to about 16" wide planks at 1:1.

 

Anyway, here's my start on the deck. I mentioned trying to show some wear on it, but I'll have to practice that on the side or just leave it as this.

 

l-411692195.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

thats a nice kit. What did you do to solve the problem? And what is the plan with the metal parts in de masts.

 

And I put on my chair in the front row, so I can see it all. :)

Posted (edited)

Thanks Sephirem, riksgewijs

 

thats a nice kit. What did you do to solve the problem? And what is the plan with the metal parts in de masts.

 

And I put on my chair in the front row, so I can see it all. :)

 

About the Keel, it appear to be alright as if, once planked, there's a keel cap that will meet perfectly with the rudder.

 

Metal parts in the mast? I plan to paint them to look like real wood if I can.

 

Moving right along. I finished planking the stern and decided to jump right into gluing the false sides on, the the dreaded planking it next.

 

411736306.jpg

Edited by LMDAVE29
Posted

I just found your build and like what I see. I will be following along. Thanks for sharing.

Bob

 

"Even while the storm raged at it's worst, my ship was wholesome and noble." - Captain Joshua Slocum

 

 

Current Builds:

L'Hermione 1780 - 1:89 - Artesania Latina   http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10261-hermione-la-fayette-1780-by-bobstrake-artesania-latina-scale-189/#entry305929<p>

 

Louise - 1:26 - Constructo  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11855-louise-by-bobstrake-constructo-scale-126/?p=360370
 

Completed Builds:

Carmen 1850 - 1:80 - Constructo - First Build   http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10398-carmen-1850-by-bobstrake-constructo-scale-180/#entry31137

Posted

Thanks guys. I've finished planking the stern. I was adding the nails in just for cosmetic reasons, but could file the heads so easy, So I decided not to continue with this for the rest. However, when I got to the first planking of the hull I had to use nails. I've been able to plank my first to building with just glue, however this thick walnut strip is the only way to hold it. I realized I shouldn't put the nails all the way in so I can come back and cut them. I need a good cutter just for this, because it will ruin my current cutter. Anyway, here are some pics.

 

411740768.jpg

 

411740769.jpg

Posted (edited)

My method of prebending the planks for the bow. Just turn on the water kettle and let it boil, stick the end in there for about 20-30 seconds, then slip them under the rubber bands, I do about 3 at a time.

 

411745719.jpg

 

This is my first time planking a ship of this shape, I don't even know the correct term for the curved bow. But it appears that after I lay about 3-4 planks going towards the keel, I need to skip a few then start curving up, then fill in the skipped space with tapered planks. I wish there was a planking layout for this model.

Edited by LMDAVE29
Posted (edited)

The name's Dave actually :)  But thanks, actually I was considering pulling the nails because sanding seemed like it would be a nightmare with nail stems shreadding the paper to where I could only use a file. I do like the looks of the nails in it in the presented picture on the box . So, it's a trade off I suppose. I'm leaning towards pulling the nails though.

Edited by LMDAVE29
Posted

Don Dressel wrote a book on planking a kit and I found it invaluable when I started years ago.  An apple bow is one of the hardest bows to plank not for the faint of heart.  You will have to shape and bend the plank.  As for holding the plank to the hull use CA Glue at the ends and use white glue for the rest.

I will pull up a chair and watch.  I do not see the SFII being built very often.  Remember to have fun.

David B

Posted

Thanks guys. I was looking at the site that had a lot of build logs of this ship but when it comes to planking most show the first two strips then the final picture, and I didn't get to really see how they approached that and all were somewhat different.

 

I laid about 5 planks from the middle down, and you can see that as the curvature transitioned to the keel I had to add a steeler plank in the filed the gap and allowed the planks to become straight.

 

411749925.jpg

 

So to get the curvature going up the 'apple' front I skipped down to the bottom band and the garboard plank (not sure if this is the correct approach, but now I have all planks in that will touch against the keel and now can just start filling in and meet in the middle.

 

411749924.jpg

Posted

Is this a single or double planked hull.  The stealer you have in the bow would be a weak point and be a source of rot and leaking on the actual ship.  There should never be stealers in the bow.  If you are doing a double plank then it is okay and do it the correct way on the secondary planking.

David B

Posted

OK, so I decided just to keep moving forward. I know my bow plank is not traditional, I need more research before doing this one. It doesn't bother me, I think it looks fine, but not the traditional method on a real ship which I'll learn eventually.

 

Anyway, I sanded the heck out of this side just to see how it all came out, and even put sanding sealer on the help me find the imperfections still needing sanding, so that's not varnish. I'll stop here and continue on with the rest now. I'll have to do the other side the exact way to be matching.

 

411757373.jpg

 

411757372.jpg

Posted

Wow!  You're racing along.

 

I took sort of the same approach - a few up the top, then a few by the keel, then fill in the middle.  That's about all those useless instructions suggest.

 

I will have to update my log sometime. You'll be surprised and pleased when you sand and seal the whole hull.

 

Looking good!

Posted

One of the ways I learned planking was to set up battens on the hull about 4 planks width.  Tack them on and bend them around the hull making adjustments as you did it.  Start at the wale then come from the keel up. This will give you the run of the planking.  I have done a few bluff bows in the past and this method will help you visualize your runs that way less dropped planks and a more pleasant run.  This also involves spiling and the use of templates.  Time consuming and a pain but worth the effort when done.  Keep up the good work and remember to have fun.

David B

Posted

Here some finished shots of the planking, the starboard side hull still needs some more shaping and sanding.

 

411790294.jpg

 

411790292.jpg

 

I added the extra trim pieces (not in the plans) to the bow deck because the preinstalled deck boards and the hull planks didn't meet perfect. So, some trim dressed that up some.

 

411790290.jpg

Posted (edited)

Looking good , cant wait to see how it progresses. I am back to working on the same ship! Will definitely check back here.

Deck planks look sweet, wish I would have added that detail into mine but just didn't know any better : o)

I was just looking at my bow, Im not sure why you needed to add those pieces. My first row of planking sits about 2-3 mm above  the deck about the same height you have those fillers at.

Edited by stangone50
Posted (edited)

Thanks Phil!

 

Stangone50, yeah, the planking wraps around the front and should be a few mm about the deck, but the deck wasn't meeting the plank flush. Just like the step to put trim on the side of the deck where the walls meet, they didn't show doing that in the front, so this trim will match what is being done on the rest of the other decks. I may even conside sanding down that trim to the level of the plank because of the future instalation there. That being the grating in the bow, I don't know the term for it.

Edited by LMDAVE29
Posted

Added the rubbing strakes to one side, and this was a pain. Decided to use CA glue for all of the wood strips, and had a lot of griping problems and messes to clean up, then when cutting the canon holes I almost destroyed the hull. The walnut is very brittle, be careful if drilling, and whatever sawing/cutting method you use, let me know, because it was hell cutting these holes.

 

411811257.jpg

 

411811258.jpg

Posted

Thanks, finished up the interior and jumped to the cap rails, these kinda tedious, if you want to get a good fit, especially the center cap because it requires bending flat-wise. I'm putting a gloss varnish on these caps, if it's too glossy in the end, and sanding slightly down.

 

411844495.jpg

 

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