HMAV Bounty By cobra1951 - Artesania Latina - 1:48

[cobra1951]

Galley almost finished, i just need to replace the condenser on the stove. It tried to jump ship

 

[Altduck]

 

I always like to see detailing like you've done here.

 

It reminds us that living, breathing sailors manned these ships (with the rats)

 

Richard

[Capt.Fisher]

Great job, Cobr@! Wish I would reach that stage too, some day..

One suggestion, if you permit, with all my respect to your craftsmanship:

The only detail that pokes my eye is the unnatural way the rope around the companionway (staircase) bends. I guess you could easily reshape them bend down, according to gravitation law and thus seem more natural.

kind regards and respect!

Capt.Fisher

[cobra1951]

Hi Capt.Fisher

Yes i agree on the rope balustrade. The problem starts with the way the rigging cord is supplied, it is wrapped around a cardboard tube and once you unwind some it always wants to curl back up. I straightened it all out before fitting it but every time the temperature or humidity change it tries to bend again.    I decided to leave it until i have finished the details on the middle deck then i will paint it with some diluted PVA and keep it in the position i want it till the diluted PVA dries. Hopefully this should hold it in the right place.

[cobra1951]

Fixed the condenser back onto the stove

 

Sorted the rope balustrades, not perfect but far better than they were

 

Added some more barrels around the middle deck

 

Middle deck and holds now finished

 

[cobra1951]

Found another mistake in the instructions (basically to save them money)

All the upper deck support beams are premade 6mm x 6mm Walnut, but when it comes to fitting the forward beam it says to use a piece of 5mm x 5mm Walnut

even though the gap for it to fit in is 6mm x 6mm. I suspect this is to save them supplying a  piece of 6mm x 6mm.

Anyway i dug out some old bits of Lime planking 1.5mm x 6mm and cut 4 strips and glued them together to make a 6mm x 6mm beam. This will be painted the same colour as the rest of the beams

 

[thomaslambo]

Yup,  I used a 1 mm shim on the forward most beam (to accommodate the error you noted) and also used another shim on the beam behind it to ease the rather steep slop of the deck.

 

Edit: also take note of another error with the Samson posts length of 20 mm (part number 188).  The length called for is way to long and should be much shorter as seen in picture book instruction 34 (which shows the correct size)....probably closer to 10 mm in length    

 

 

 

Edited February 25, 2016 by thomaslambo

[cobra1951]

Good idea Boyd,

I have some 0.7mm wood so i will look into putting a shim on that same beam to cut down the angle on the deck

[thomaslambo]

You have a fine eye for detail...see my above edit for another error 

[cobra1951]

I learned the error of taking measurements from the instructions as early on as the forward and aft hold deck support beams. if anything calls for things to be cut to length i measure the gap myself first, saves a hole heap of wasted timber and time. The Samson posts will have to be done by eye if the instructions are off there, as there is no gap to measure. Looking through the instructions ahead of where i am at they miss loads of stuff out. Parts just appear on the deck in the photo's with no mention of what they are or even part numbers, Adds to the fun of the build as well as the frustration working it out i suppose

 

Edit:

Maybe the designer of this kit had a few bottles of  San Miguel before writing up the instruction book

Edited February 25, 2016 by Cobr@

[Robert29]

Beautiful detail Bob.

[cobra1951]

I always like to see detailing like you've done here.

 

It reminds us that living, breathing sailors manned these ships (with the rats)

 

Richard

 

Thank you Richard

Sorry for being a bit late thanking you but i missed your post

[cobra1951]

Beautiful detail Bob.

 Thank you Robert

[cobra1951]

As i start this next stage of the build i would like to thank all those that have either liked or commented on my posts or helped in any way...   cheers

 

Top deck now fitted and glued and pinned in place. All pins had a pilot hole drilled first so the frames and support beams did not split under the deck.

Once it's all dried and pins removed i can then check if any frames need building up or sanding down, hopefully not to many of them

[cobra1951]

Once the deck had dried i cut out all the crossbeams that were interfering with the hold covers and the companionway stairs

 

There is quite a lot of sanding around the bow area to do to make it the same size as the deck.

 

Sorting this and fairing the bow frames is all one job. I do not like to use a block of wood with sandpaper fixed to it to do this on curved areas because the angle needed changes as the curve progresses. So i improvised a bit.

I put some double sided tape on a leather belt and fixed some sandpaper to it.

 

Now i am able to sand away the bow area and fair the bow frames all in the correct curvature

[cobra1951]

I have a small problem the part with the arrow in the picture is missing from my kit. As far as i can tell it's only there to stiffen up the aft section of the top deck because once the planking is on it will not be seen. If so i can just use some strips of plywood left over to stiffen the underside of the deck.

Am i right in presuming it is only a stiffener and serves no other purpose.

[thomaslambo]

I have a small problem the part with the arrow in the picture is missing from my kit. As far as i can tell it's only there to stiffen up the aft section of the top deck because once the planking is on it will not be seen. If so i can just use some strips of plywood left over to stiffen the underside of the deck.

Am i right in presuming it is only a stiffener and serves no other purpose.

 

Yes, you are correct, use the plywood instead.  Also, the notches only need to be the size of the small stanchion (I have no idea why they made those larger notches, totally unnecessary). 

 

And as a matter of fact, I had to heavily file it down so it can't be seen through the open windows.

Edited February 27, 2016 by thomaslambo

[cobra1951]

Cheers Boyd

                    I dry fitted all the stern parts and noticed that it would obscure part of the window by about 1/4 inch. if i had it that is lol

I will probably fit ply on the sides. and a small piece of square wood to make a joint between the end of the upper deck and the stern plate

[cobra1951]

Sanded all the bow area level with the deck.

To make sure that the center planks on the top deck ran directly down the center of the deck in a straight line i marked out a line then i clamped a 1 metre steel rule to the deck along the line and then glued the first row of planks butted up against the rule

[cobra1951]

At last i have finished laying the planking on the main deck. It still has to be leveled off and sanded then i will simulate the treenails

It took a long time because i was constantly having to repair the main deck plywood. It's such bad quality the 3 layers of ply keep separating at the slightest touch.

 

It will have to be something special i can't get anywhere else to make me buy another AL kit

 

Edited March 7, 2016 by Cobr@

[Siegfried]

Hi Bob,

 

the details on the lower decks are looking great. Does it all belong to the kit?

 

Daniel

[cobra1951]

Hi Daniel

Thanks for your remarks. All the details on the lower decks were bought separately and are not part of the kit, except for the sails in the aft hold they were placed there instead of being put on the masts

[AntonyUK]

Hi Bob.

Thanks for the heads up on the deck plywood. Just checked mine and it's good quality.

There will be a delay in me starting my Bounty as we are having a new kitchen and it's not good having models around.. So start will be in June.

Must say your planking look nice

 

Regards Antony.

[cobra1951]

Hi Antony.

Thanks for you remarks, bummer on the delay you must be itching to get started having waited a long time already.

You won't notice anything about the deck ply looking at it, mine looked fine. The problem comes when trimming the deck planking around the hatchways, stairways and other cut outs so be extra gentle doing it

[Capt.Fisher]

Hi guys

What I did was planking the whole deck from bow to stern, over all the openings, thus achieving a whole tight surface. It was much easier to make a quick and even sanding. Only after that I made all the necessary cuts for hatchways, stairways, masts, etc. And the poor quality of the plywood did not matter at all..

[cobra1951]

Hi Capt.

The problem I had with the ply deck was with the cutting out of all the hatches etc. Not with the sanding as I haven't sanded it yet. I am going to use the scraping method of dragging a blade along the deck with the first lot of levelling and a light sanding to finish

[Capt.Fisher]

You will do a fine job, Cobr@, as always ! 

 

A small present for you (and all other Bounty-ers) - just in case you missed it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_Id-BQt08Y&index=8&list=FLLNEItXfiZaWVvI4DzdHcEQ

 

Enjoy!

[cobra1951]

Thanks Capt

[cobra1951]

Main Deck is now planked and ready for varnishing, but before i go any further i want to make sure that the masts fit nicely through all 3 decks

First job was to put the kit supplied masts in the scrap wood stash as they came out the box looking like my dog had used them as bones

They are also curved so much they would make good Bows for archery.

Some kit manufacturers seem to think supplying this rubbish is ok, but once the word goes around they will lose sales in the long run IMHO.

 

Then i cut some new lower masts from the new material i had purchased

Big difference

[AntonyUK]

Hi Bob.

It's shame on the manufactures that put such rubbish in our kits that we pay lots of money for.

There are good manufactures out there that realy do care and they try there hardest to maintain the quality of there kits.

One good reason to get into scratch building.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

Regards Antony.