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Posted

I'm working on my Providence model and would like to know.

 

Thanks 

 

S.O.S

New Bedford Whaleboat build. Kit by Model Shipways

 

 

I've been making progress on my model and according to the instruction booklet I should be painting it, at least parts of it.

Are acrylic's ok ? I did apply a sanding sealer. but I want to stain the untreated floor boards which are walnut.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

S.O.S.

 

 

Posted (edited)

Hi.

From my own expearances the only knot I have seen used for the anchor is a knot called the Anchor bend.

Same as the fishermans knot but it goes twice around the ring then finishes with a half turn. And the tail is always lashed.

 

Regards Antony.

Edited by AntonyUK

Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask.

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Posted

Thanks folks. I had a feeling the anchor or fisherman's bend would do the job. The bend illustrated above probably has some advantages but it is easy to see that the end would have to be sized or else come loose.

 

BTW I have always wondered why a fouled anchor is so popular as nautical emblem by knowing mariners. A disaster waiting to happen for any ship so fouled.

 

S.O.S.

New Bedford Whaleboat build. Kit by Model Shipways

 

 

I've been making progress on my model and according to the instruction booklet I should be painting it, at least parts of it.

Are acrylic's ok ? I did apply a sanding sealer. but I want to stain the untreated floor boards which are walnut.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

S.O.S.

 

 

  • 1 year later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

In Jean Boudriot's book "The Seventy-Four Gun Ship", he draws a distinction between the bends used on the main anchor cables for a large ship, and those on 'cablets' - lighter cables used for stream anchors.  He says "These small cables are differentiated only by their size, and indeed the cablet of a ship-of-the-line may serve as the cable of a sloop-of war".  

 

He shows the following anchor bend for a cablet

 

post-15507-0-57862600-1486200410.jpg

 

For the larger cables, he shows a simpler "clinch", more suited to the greater diameter and stiffness of the cable.

John

 

Past Builds:
Diorama, Washington & Philadelphia - 1776.  1:144 scale scratch build

Sir Edward Hawke - Schooner, 1776.  1:72 scale scratch build from H Hahn plans

Matthew - 1497.  1:25 scale scratch build from Colin Mudie plans

Mediterranean Cog - 1343.  1:40 scale scratch build from Xavier Pastor plans

Nonsuch - 1650.  1:32 scale Aeropiccola kit

Caustic - gunboat, 1776 . 1:36 scale scratch build

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

Posted (edited)

Notice the loops are seized  or thrown around so the loop will not close, or like in the last illustration when the bitter end is loose, the loops do no bind themselves. Cutting those cables would have been a chore and a waste of cable.

jud

Edited by jud
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Biddlecombe's "Art of Rigging" shows (Plate VI, Fig. 10) an anchor on the bottom with the cable run thru the anchor ring, but extending further down to and around the flukes, secured with a clove hitch, but also continuing back to the surface and attached to a buoy. 

Not clear if an anchor bend occurs at the ring; I would assume it does otherwise it's just a clove hitch holding things together. 

Question is:  When would this arrangement be used?  When bottom is known to be snaggy?  When the need to possibly slip the cable due to anticipated storm? Having the cable terminate at a buoy would allow a boat to retrieve the end, and then weigh the anchor from the fluke end if snagged. 

Obviously, the decision to use this arrangement would have to be made before the anchor is dropped. 

Steve

 

"If they suspect me of intelligence, I am sure it will soon blow over, ha, ha, ha!"

-- Jack Aubrey

 

Builds:

Yankee Hero, Fannie Gorham, We’re Here, Dapper Tom (x3), New Bedford Whaler, US Brig Lawrence (Niagara), Wyoming (half hull), Fra Berlanga (half hull), Gokstad Viking Ship, Kate Cory, Charles Morgan, Gjoa

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