Revenue Cutter 1817 by Eric W - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1:48 - first build

[Eric W]

Here is an update with the toe rails and some of the deck hardware. Instructions were straight forward, except ensure you leave a 3/16" gap at the bow centerline for the bowsprit. The plans were not very clear on this, but the photos in the manual show a gap.

[Eric W]

Aft deckhouse was the project this weekend. I did not paint the styrene black per the instructions. I thought it looked better shwoing a little wood through the "glass". Basswood is really delicate

[Elijah]

The deck house looks very good Eric!

[Eric W]

This weekend I was able to complete the hatches, bilge pumps and bitts. There is a typo in the instructions: the bitt stanchions are part LRC18 not 16. I also shaped the tiller, which like the hatch hinges, was "feel as you go". I used a vice and pair of needle nose pliers. The holes in the deck are for the life rail stanchions.

[Eric W]

I have a new "arch nemesis", the 1/8" gun tackle block. The carronade went together well, but the 1/8" blocks were a bear to get pigtails on and rig.

I used a magnyfying glass vice and tweezers. The 3/16" blocks were quite a bit easier and fortunately that is the primary scale for the rigging. Any advice on rigging small blocks would be appreciated. This experience might shy me away from anything smaller than 1/48th scale.

[mtaylor]

Eric,

 

Do you have a "third hand" or locking tweezers?   I find they help immensely along with some magnification.  You'll still need plenty of patience and some extra blocks for those that go flying off in the twilight zone.

 

Looks great... 

[Eric W]

So I have to apologize for the hiatus. Summer is upon us, and besides a trip to the Pacific Northwest, I have been busy on weekends with a Monterey 224FS. Doing some 1:1 scale boating on Lake Tahoe

Edited August 12, 2016 by Eric W

[GuntherMT]

Hi Eric,

 

I missed the last page or so of your log, my apologies, but just caught up and read your question about rigging small blocks.  I posted a sort of 'mini-tutorial' on how I did the single blocks when rigging my cannon in my build log - don't know if it's too late or will help, but feel free to take a look:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8085-armed-virginia-sloop-by-gunthermt-finished-model-shipways-scale-148/page-24#entry328294

[Eric W]

Brian, thanks for the reference. Any help with rigging blocks is greatly appreciated.

[Eric W]

Well folks, sorry I am not going step by step. I got into my rigging zone over the last two weekends and didn't stop for photos. I'll try to walk you through it.

[Eric W]

First off, bluejacket pre-drilled the mast holes which made the initial alignment easy. I bring this up because apparently that's not the case with the model shipways Phantom, which baffles me as an entry level solid hull model.

Edited October 11, 2016 by Eric W

[Eric W]

One big issue was drilling holes to put the blocks into the gaffs. I snapped the foremast gaff in two and had to make a significant repair. In the future I would do a #55 bit.hole and put an eye bolt in first, then wire the block to it.

[Eric W]

Another "oops" was on the jib pole. You make a 1/32" hole in the jib pole and run a .010" line through it. I could not get the line through, so I sent the bit back through and popped the tip of the jib pole right off. That required more micro-surgery with tweasers and a magnifying glass. I wrapped the line a few more times around the pole to camouflage the break and strengthen it.

[Eric W]

Bluejacket's plans are quite good, and they have some helpful rigging diagrams, which have really helped a total novice like me. With the diagrams and the photos in the instruction manual, I have not felt overwhelmed.

[Eric W]

One area I am going to modify is to take the ring off an eye bolt and use that instead of the wire suggested in the instructions to secure the block to the traveller rod for the boom traveller. Funny thing is, bluejacket shows this technique (ring instead of wire) in a photo in the instruction manual. Attached is a photo with the wire used

[Elijah]

Good job! Your boat is looking good!

Edited October 12, 2016 by Elijah

[Eric W]

Thank you, Elijah, I think I am hooked.

[GuntherMT]

One big issue was drilling holes to put the blocks into the gaffs. I snapped the foremast gaff in two and had to make a significant repair. In the future I would do a #55 bit.hole and put an eye bolt in first, then wire the block to it.

 

Eric,

 

Looks like you are making nice progress, but in your second picture in the post I quoted from October 10th, it looks like the line is not run through the block on the gaff properly.  Might be just the angle of the photo, but it doesn't look like the line is coming out of the far side of the block at all, or am I missing something?

[Eric W]

Brian, the line is circling the block. I had to use a #75 bit on most of the blocks to open the holes better. I noticed some had a lot of metal flashing. I guess I could try to open the angle better, but I am afraid to tamper with it since I broke the gaff last time.

[Eric W]

Okay team, have a question: original brass finish for the life rail stanchions, or black to replicate wrought iron? I like the look of the brass, but think it may not be authentic. I also attached an overhead of the carronade rigged to the deck. To get the coiled line effect, go with at least 18" of line for each rigging point. I "coaxed" the coils in place with a little glue at certain points to help the thread maintain it's shape.

[Eric W]

So, I went with wrought iron. I painted them, then dry fitted each stanchion back in place. They went in without any issues. Last step was the halyard for the ensign. For my first wooden ship model build, I thought this cutter was moderately challenging. I would highly recommend it for a novice like myself.

[Tim Curtis]

I really like this. You did a great job.

Tim

[Bill Wells]

Active was 38 tons.  I have copies of the original letters.

[BrianK]

Hi Eric,

researching builds of the BJ Revenue Cutter. I have one on order and I am a novice. I am glad you are recommending it. I will be referring to your build.

 

Regards,

BrianK