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In building my POF Armed Virginia Sloop, I became concerned about gluing the planking to the frames. Since the frames are visible below the wales, and because the planking is thick at 1/32 scale, push pins weren't the answer. I also didn't want to wait hours for clamped PVA glue to set up. I didn't trust CA glue alone because of the slight surface irregularity of the planking lying on the frames. My solution was to use Weldbond as the primary glue, but also set a small drop of Zap-A-Gap CA at each joint. After a second or two the CA acts as a "liquid clamp" and holds the plank in place until the Weldbond is solid. When dry the joint is strong as steel! It saves tons of time waiting for glue to dry.

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Hi Dave, builders who publish books also recommend trunnals in addition to the glue.  Wood moves with humidity changes and after a number of years, some glue joints might fail.                  


Keep building and above all. have fun~!              Duff 

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To add a bit more, when spiled and pre-bent to the approximate bend of the hull shape, the planks will stay in place using any aliphatic (carpenter's) glue after a minute or less of holding it in place tight against the bulkheads and adjacent plank with light finger pressure.  The planks were normally about 30 feet long so even at 1/4 inch scale that is only about 8 inches long. PVA glues such as Elmer's white glue is not a great way to go for planking, in my personal experience.  Don't forget to bevel the edges of the planks as needed, both for inside bends such as near the stern and outside bends elsewhere.  I know "as needed" is not very definitive, but the amount of bevel varies along the length of the plank as the curves of the frames are dynamic.  I also agree with Duff that trennals are great for added strength, especially using bamboo, but tough to make to scale below 3/16". 



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