USS Constitution by MEPering - Model Shipways - 1:76.8 (5/32"=1'0") - First build

[EJ_L]

First block looks great! Smart to hold off installing it till all your pieces are shaped and ready.

[MEPering]

Thank you, E.J.

 

As a new ship builder, this is beginning to look like more scratch than kit.  That is ok with me, but it is more like a set of plans and some wood and metal than a true kit.  I like scratch building, so this doesn't bother me whatsoever.  I am thoroughly enjoying it, and I find it totally engrossing.  The plans aren't great so far, but they are adequate.  My filler blocks, which are cut to the plans exactly, don't match the bearding line.  I made a template to recheck my bearding line, and a template to recheck my 'R' bulkhead to align everything.  My templates fit exactly, but the filler block, which also fit it's templates perfectly, didn't.

 

That being said, the filler is oversized, and not under, so this is not a problem.  Just more fine-tuning.  I think this was by design from the makers of the plans.  It is always easier to take more wood off than to put it back on.  Another thing that the plans don't take into consideration is the fact that there is not a 90 degree relationship between the counter and the filler block.  On the plans, it shows it as that, but it is not.  This may seem like I am picking nits, it is a detail which should have been shown in the plans, in my opinion.

 

It is really overall a good kit though.  It has been fun to build so far, and I am sure it will continue to be that.  They just need an update to the plans.

 

Matt

[HIPEXEC]

Looks like a great beginning!

[David Lester]

Hi Matt,

You'll find a couple of things like this throughout the build where the plans don't seem to line up with reality exactly right. I had a bit of trouble with the profile of the counter and another area where you will find this problem is the side galleries. They aren't especially difficult to build, but the piece that is the roof of the gallery is too short as shown on the plans. I debated what to do and in the end decided to make and add a filler piece at the aft end of the roof. It's about 1/8" if I remember correctly. I decided I wanted the front end of the roof to line up more or less where I thought it should in relation to the gunport that it's very close too. Overall though, I agree with you that it's a pretty nice kit and it gets easier as you find the "work arounds" for these little issues. 

Davdi

[usedtosail]

You are doing a great job so far Matt. I look forward to following along with your build log. One thing to look out for on the plans that I have been finding out the hard way is that a lot of the drawings are not symmetrical. My advice is to trace out half the piece and flip that side over over to get a symmetrical part. The wheel supports are one example of this.

[MEPering]

Thanks Hipexec, David and Usedtosail.  Your builds have been informative and inspirational.  In fact, I question whether I would have ever attempted this project without some of your, and others, fine posts here.  MSW is such a great resource.

 

I did manage a little time today to get the other stern filler block completed, and a start on the bow filler blocks today.  I am fairly satisfied they are about as close as I can get to mirror images of one another.  If you see anything in the pictures which contradicts that, please point it out.  My first one took me about 5 hours to build, the second one only about 2.

 

I also started the bow fillers.  These look easy, but then I remembered Usedtosail's post on the problem he had with the roughness of the notches for the posts.  If you look very carefully at the pics, you should be able to see a test notch.  Here too, I had issues with chipping-out of the wood where it was not at least 90 degrees.  So my solution?   I will make stabbing cuts BEFORE I shape the blocks.  This should provide adequate support, so that there should be no chip-out.  Hopefully, I will have at least one completed tomorrow, so we shall see.  I will try and remember to photo as I go.

 

Again, thanks for the great logs, and the encouragement. 

 

 

Matt

 

 

 

[David Lester]

Hi Matt,

The notches on the bow blocks are a pain to do, but there is another approach that I discovered and it works well. Make the blocks about 1/8" too short, then make a new piece 1/8" thick with the same profile as the top of the block and cut the notches into this separate piece. After the notches are cut, just glue it on top. That way you'll get very crisp edges on the notches. The picture below shows what I mean.

David

[MEPering]

Hi David... Most agreed, this is a great method that you show.  But I use chisels on a daily basis, and am fairly competent with them.  That is a great solution when if things go wrong, too.  And actually, I think for most people who don't have experience with using a chisel, or don't have a proper chisel, the solution you present is a better option.  Another thing that backs that up, is that basswood is a softer wood, and is hard to cut cleanly with a chisel that isn't absolutely razor sharp.  I am used to working with hard maple, and it is easier to cut with a chisel than basswood.

 

Of course, after my post, I couldn't wait to see how it would work.  Here are some pics of what my results are looking like, and also the chisels used.  I bought these chisels about 25 years ago.  They are old, but made of very good steel, and I would buy them again if I had too.  Dockyard Model is the company that manufactured them.  I have no affiliation with them, but they made a good product here:

 

Matt

 

 

 

 

[MEPering]

I should have also mentioned Xken's log above as well... Also very informative and inspirational.  There are others as well, but please take no offense if I forgot to mention you.

 

Matt

Edited April 29, 2016 by MEPering

[David Lester]

Looks like you're in great shape. Those chisels (and the skill to use them) are ideal for this job.

David

[MEPering]

A rainy day here, so got the bow filler blocks completed.  I started by cutting the notches to about 1/16" depth.  Then, I shaped the blocks with a belt sander, Dremel and final hand sanding.  Once they were shaped, I cut the notches to final depth.  I think they turned out ok, and I will be using them in the build.

 

Matt

 

 

[Elijah]

Looks great! Nice chisels, you sure know how to use them!

[usedtosail]

Nice jib in those filler blocks. I wish I had your chiselling mojo.

[MEPering]

Thank you all for the comments on the bow fillers.  All it takes is a really sharp chisel.

 

Today I decided to work on the timbers that frame the bow... Knightheads and other framing.  I did this because  I think it is easier to do off the ship than when on it.  Anything that can be done off the ship is better done that way, in my opinion.  So I cut out the main framing timbers, and all came out well, but the plans are really off in this section of the ship.  The knightheads are totally out-of-wack comparing the drawings to the actual pieces.  I am coming to understand that the ship plans and instructions are more like guidelines than exact.

 

That being said, I still think the kit is a great kit.  It just takes a bit of thought to get to where you should be, rather than what they show.  The picture shows what I got cut today, since I think pre-fitting of the pieces is better than having to do it when the parts are on the ship.  Believe me, I had to modify the parts quite a lot to get them to fit properly so I am glad I chose to do it this way.

 

Matt

 

 

[MEPering]

I finally got the starboard side bow framing completed to dry fit.  It took a lot of trimming and trying, trimming and trying, but I think I finally got there.  These pics are dry fit, except for the filler block which is affixed now, and these are the only pieces I will fit in the first glue-up.  Timber number 5 will have to be custom fit, but the framework of these timbers needs to be solid first.  And then it will be the bridal port sill and header, and the stiffeners. 

 

It may seem like I am spending a lot of time on this area of the ship, but this is a challenging area, and all pieces need to be custom fit.  Once the parts were cut to the templates, there was much trimming that had to occur.  I hope the rest of the plans are a little better.  I also fit the other side, though I don't show it, and it was exactly the same way. 

 

Tomorrow, I hope I can have the bow framing completed, and begin working on the transom framing.  Then it is on to gun port framing.

 

Matt

 

 

[EJ_L]

Your framing is looking great! All this time you are taking will pay off big time when you get to planking. No, the plans will not improve. For someone that believes in building things right and is detail oriented as you and most model ship builders are then plans are never good enough. Whether it is framing, rigging, furniture or the multitude of little details found on ships, something will always be lacking. That is I think something that I like with this hobby. It is beyond frustrating at times but that is what makes us better modelers as we don't just follow a set of instructions that anyone can follow. We have to research, learn to read blue prints, search for art work of the ship and then figure out the dimensions from there.

You are doing a great job on your build. Keep it up!

[Elijah]

Taking your time is good! Measure twice (or more), cut once.

[MEPering]

I did get some time today to glue up the bow framing, sans the plankshear, which will be added later.  I have only glued it in, and a little time with a file and some sandpaper should get it into acceptable form for planking.  It was a fairly easy job, but as I said in a previous post, everything needed to be hand fit, and the templates were mere guidelines that got me close.

 

Once I completed the bow framing, I cut out my transom frames, and intended on continuing with that.  However, as the picture below shows, there is a discrepancy in the outboard frames.  After a few sips of grog from my mug (ok, ok... It was a few drinks of beer from a can), I decided to ask here.  Is there a reason for this difference?  Is it for fitting adjustment purposes, or just a mistake in the laser cutting?  I really don't see why it should be intentionally cut this way.  I expected both to be cut like the frame on the right.  Any and all opinions are appreciated.  The first photo shows this clearly, though the others are a bit out of focus.  Ooops.

 

Matt

 

 

[CaptainSteve]

Matt,

 

I'm finding the same discrepancies on my own Connie build. For me, they became more of a problem as I had always aimed to do a Captain's gallery and 1812 stern arrangement. My solution was to re-cut the parts, ignoring the bevelled section on the upper side of the two extreme outer frame pieces.

 

If you look at XKen's build log on pg3 (post #41), you will see that he had the same issue. His solution would probably be more suited to your build.

 

Keep up the great work ... you are steaming ahead !!

Edited May 4, 2016 by CaptainSteve

[MEPering]

Thanks CaptainSteve for bringing that to my recollection... I had forgotten Xken had the same issue.  Now it is a matter of just coming up with the simplest solution that satisfactorily solves the problem accurately. 

 

Have you decided on 5 windows or 6 on the transom?  I considered doing a 1797 version myself, but can't find enough evidence for how she was originally configured.  Besides, modifications were made for a good reason.  So I decided to just go with the current construction of her, since I know for certain how she looks now.  I will probably kick myself for it after the revision she is undergoing now is complete in 2018...lol.

 

Matt

[CaptainSteve]

I believe I will eventually go with a six-window configuration, despite the lack of concrete evidence. I'm basing my decision almost primarily on the Hull model. See the discussion on five or six windows here.

[MEPering]

CaptainSteve, I tend to agree that the earlier configuration was probably 6 windows.  I think it probably suffered damage to the transom, and was converted to 5 windows.  But I am tempted to believe that the original configuration was 8 windows.  But then again, there is just not enough evidence at this time to be able to say for sure, or at least I haven't seen it.  Also, artificial lighting at the time was poor, and they tended to try and take as much advantage of natural lighting as they could.  I think the paintings and the model just show her as she was at different times in her long history.

 

Matt

[KirbysLunchBox]

I have a theory that it was 8 windows but the outboard two were fake on each side. My thought is that you wouldn't have all that glass in the gallery or next to the bed of the captain and/or admiral. I think there would just be port holes. That would leave four windows in the main cabin. During the 1812 chase gun modifications, I don't think there would have been enough room to get two canons in there without knocking out the frames between windows 3 and 4 and windows 5 and 6. I think that after return to port they changed the window configuration to 3 with fake windows for 1 and 5. I hope that makes sense without pictures. Thoughts?

[MEPering]

That is quite possible, KirbysLunchBox.  I see no evidence to contraindicate your theory.  One thing I do think is there was an even number of windows in the beginning, since most ships of the day had a center post running up the center of the transom.

 

Matt

[KirbysLunchBox]

I know when the time comes my plan is to model an even number. I have years to go before I will be able to join the Connie club though. I just enjoy watching everyone else build for now.

 

Justin

Edited May 4, 2016 by KirbysLunchBox

[Jimz66]

That bow section is looking quite nice Matt. Thanks for keeping us updated. Hope all is well. 

[MEPering]

Thanks, Jimz66.  It took a bit of work, but that is the nature of the ship-building beast I am finding out.

 

All is well though, and we are having good weather here so I have just been busy mowing my yard, tilling my garden, fixing my cars and chasing my chickens.  And of course, I work as a type of artist/craftsman, so that also takes a bit of time each day.  So not able to make a lot of progress on the ship over the last few days.  Plus, I am working on the dummy cannon boxes, which are all pretty much different, so what progress I have made is a bit slow.  So I am making each box custom for it's particular position.  I have a couple of pictures of them here.  You may also notice I have made and installed the bracing as well.  At the moment, they are only dry fit.  I want to get both sides made before permanently affixing them, to make sure I don't induce any undue stress on the bulkheads.  When I do get them all made, and start to permanently affix them, I will do so two at a time, switching from port to starboard, port to starboard, much like I shall do the planking when the time comes.  All of the boxes stand proud of the bulkheads, so they my be sanded down in the fairing process to match the curvature of the hull. 

 

I know... I haven't got the transom framed yet, but I am still considering how I want to handle that.  Besides, I doesn't need to be done before the gun deck gun ports.  In fact, there are a few things I am going to put off doing until after planking is done also.  I realize the transom isn't one of those things, but why would anyone install the gangway and hammock boards before planking?  That is asking to get them broken.  Sacrificial scrap should be used here, and later removed and replaced with those parts.  Anyway... Enough of my talk.  Here are the pictures.

 

Matt

Edited May 5, 2016 by MEPering

[MEPering]

I finally completed the cannon boxes on the starboard side... It is surprising how long this takes.  But it is what it is, and takes as long as it takes.  These really need to be right, or planking will not come out quite right.  To fit these is going to take some fine-tuning, but they are pretty close now.  I cut them pretty large so that they could be perfected in the fairing process.  This is only the one side done of the gun deck.  Now, I have to do the other side, and then start on the yard deck carronades.  It may be slow, tedious work, but very important for the final appearance of the ship... A smooth and gentle curve from bow to stern, with all muzzles aligned with one another. 

 

 

 

These are just dry fit, as I said.  I have to build the other side now before fitting can actually start.  I probably shouldn't even post such minutia, but it does feel like and accomplishment when you get this sort of thing completed.  Lots of measuring and cutting.  But knowing you did it right is worth the work. 

 

Matt

 

[usedtosail]

Nice job, Matt. Your attention to detail now will really pay off as you progress.

[MEPering]

Hello all.

 

I did finish building the dummy cannon boxes for the gun deck on my model.  I am beginning to think it actually would have been easier to just add the gun deck and get cannons to fit it.  Actually, I might do that... I haven't decided yet, I guess.

 

But I decided to do some experimentation with priming the Britannia castings included with the kit.  I am not impressed with the castings of the barrels, and I could turn my own pattern on one of my metal lathes, and make my own castings.  It is not hard to do, but these castings are good enough.  However, it would take me a week to do this for the carronades and the long guns, so I decided against it.  Besides... Silicon molding rubber is expensive.

 

Anyway, I have been experimenting with a primer coat on white metal parts to try and find what is best to make acrylic paint to stick.  I may have found a solution.  I first tried painting the raw metal with just black acrylic paint, and it couldn't stand touching... It fell of just by touching after a half hour.

 

I searched the web to see what others did, and found someone who claimed that gesso would work well.  I was extremely skeptical of this, since it is also acrylic based.  So I tried it.  I thought this could not possibly work, but then again, when I used gesso on canvases when I have done oil painting, it has really been tough.  Once totally dry,  Gesso is extremely hard. 

 

I had my doubts, but I am a believer now.  I can handle the piece now after just a couple of hours, and the gesso sticks.  The first picture is the raw cannon.  The second is after coating with black gesso, and being handled a bit.  Actually, the gesso is such a flat black, I might use it for the cannon boxes, unless I put in the gun deck.

 

Matt