USS Constitution by xken - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76.8

[xken]

George, we will see I sent John an email showing the picture and needing another 36 or so; but I also asked for a quote for 90 strips for the gun deck. We will see. I am a little hesitant to start without having all in hand. 

I have the gundeck carrier completed and ready for planking. First I created a pattern using paper card stock, my sophisticated CAD system (Cardboard Aided Design).

I then transferred the pattern to 1/32" plywood which will be the carrier for the deck planking.

I then final fitted the plywood halves in place.

Once fitted I then cut them down the centerline so that there will be four sections to the deck that will slip between the beams in place. This shows the four way joint that will be below a beam.

Next I carpet taped the underside down the tight joint and taped it to a plastic covered cardboard work surface. I intend to us blackened white glue to represent the caulk lines.

Now I will look around to see what I can do until the order comes from ME.

 

 

 

[GLakie]

 

"my sophisticated CAD system (Cardboard Aided Design)"

I like the way you think Ken.  I've got a question, and it's probably something I missed in previous posts, but adding the thickness of the planking, to the thickness of the plywood, isn't that a little more than what was removed from the bulkhead? I'm asking because if it's off, the height of the cannon-barrels wouldn't line up right in the gun ports would they? 

[xken]

George that is what I was referring to about the dimensions on the planes. For the gundeck I removed 3/32" from the bulkheads to compensate for the deck thickness 1/16" planking + 1/32"plywood carrier and used the plans as reference lines. But that still does not mean it may be correct. Maybe I should build a cannon and verify while waiting for the order to come. Now is the time for fixing if not correct. Thanks for bringing it up!     

[GLakie]

OK - I thought you would have, but if not, as you say, now is the time for corrections. I've seen a lot of guys fabricate a cannon "mock-up" out of cardboard for measuring purposes. That should make checking it easier. 

[usedtosail]

Ken, because I used the planking to plank part of the gun deck, I ordered more to plank the spar deck. I think I just ordered one of ME's basswood strip packages. I ended up with almost just enough - I had to rip a couple of planks from wider stock to finish the spar deck. I would recommend making up one of the cannons to test the gun port height. I used the dimensions like you for the subsurface and the planking, but the guns were too high in the ports. My solution was to trim down the carriages along the sides.

[xken]

Tom, thanks for the heads up! I am learning that the assembly instructions and plans are merely guides and are to be taken under caution. I am reminded of the old carpenter's adage " Measure twice and cut once." They are more like "Here it is you figure it out."

The one good thing about building ships there are many independent components that can be built separately. 

Thanks again!

[xken]

Tom,

 

Here is the long gun built up. I turned the axles and wheels out of brass for accuracy the front wheels are 1/4" diameter and the rear are 7/32" diameter. The quoin is at the rear most position and can be slid fore and aft to adjust the barrel in the opening. I am assuming that it is suppose to be centered.

Here it is centered in the gunport opening on the gun deck.

I also had a brain fart and misspoke above; I only cut away 1/16" on the bulkheads not 3/32". The deck I will fit in place will be 3/32" thick so I think I am good for now on where I am headed.

 

I also will smooth more on the barrel and true up the opening. Hopefully I will get my order soon for the 30 long guns.

 

[usedtosail]

That gun looks great, Ken. You look good to go with them.

[xken]

Tom, thanks and here is the rest of the gun. I used the brass strip supplied with kit and stretched it to straighten. I cut a "V" notch in a piece of scrap wood and glued a 1/16" piece of rod in the notch about halfway down. I then formed the brass strip over the rod using the blades of a common screwdriver.

Cut the straps to match the forward edge of the carriage and matched the length on the other side.

Here they were very carefully glued in place with drop thickened CA so as not to glue the cannon trunnion so that it will be adjustable with the quoin in the gunport.

 

Next while waiting on the deck strips to come I decided to build up the quarter gallery areas. I really struggled with the window shapes, but first  carved the bottom filler piece at the required angle and dimensions off the plans and glued it in place parallel to the base line. I then decided to build a removable shell that holds the window area and glued the back piece the height of the windows and parallel to the bottom filler. Then added the angled rear part the required height and then the top shape again based on the plans. This formed the shell. I assumed that the bottom of the windows were parallel to the baseline as well.

I then started adding each window and the filler blocks on each side and carved the top filler per the plans. In my mind the windows look odd angling down. It seems as though the window laser pattern was taken from a side view rather than a straight on view which accounts for the awkwardness in appearance. I almost decided to scrap the kit parts and scratch build them to look right but I could not find a clear image anywhere showing the inboard window detail.

 

Here is an "in progress" of the parts so far with some fussing and trim work needed. I have to say quite a bit of rework was needed to get to this point and try and make the windows look correct. I just wish I had a good reference image; most of what I find are side views or rear views not showing the inboard window.

 

Anyway I have made the section removable for either easier painting or replacing if I find better reference material.

 

[CaptainSteve]

Ken. I've been following your build silently in the background ("Yes, yes. I know. Totally out of character, for me !!") ...

 

Not sure if you have seen Marquardt's AOTS Constitution, but here are three variations of the side gallery windows from that book ...

 

Hope they help. For my money, I'm in favour of the third version (C2/7), but I'm still a looong way from getting to that stage.

Edited December 19, 2015 by CaptainSteve

[xken]

Captain Steve, thanks for sharing! It looks like the center one is what is drawn up on the plans and I am presently building with out of scale details. I will just do the best I can with what I have.

Thanks again!

[xken]

After much debate with myself and checking other builds I decided to do the best with what is provided with the kit and the direction specified which is C2/6 as shown by Captain Steve's options.

Here is the rough in of the laser windows and you can readily see the problem with the window closest to the hull. The bottoms of the windows are parallel to the base line but the tops are off on a tangent.

I am making the window sections removable for easier painting/replacement down the road.

Here is the port side roughed in to match the starboard side.

Here is how I made the removable section structure and once built the back side was cut away to allow painting and window installation.

Here the parts are primed for final fitting and adjustment by sanding the inboard sides of the components.

This shows the final fitting of the starboard side ready to be painted later.

I also added the bottom filler with the head hole drilled before forming.

Next I have moved onto the transom and added the gunports and now have to decide whether to continue with the kit direction of only three windows or add five windows as I have seen on other builds. I would welcome advice and background of the three versus the five window transom.

I have heard that my order for deck strips will ship today.

[Geoff Matson]

Looking good Ken. 

 

I went with the three windows and made my Constitution as the Kit suggested.  I enjoy following your changes from the kits option. Have a great Christmas and make a lot of sawdust

[GLakie]

I've got a few pics of the stern as she sets now  Ken, along with a 1914 pic and stern gallery shot of how she is now as well. I'd also like to wish you and yours a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

 

Edited December 22, 2015 by GLakie

[usedtosail]

Hi Ken. Nice job on those quarter galleries. I ended up remaking the windows closest to the hull from scratch so they would fit right, but yours look great. That is pretty ingenious to make them removable like that.

 

As for the stern windows, I made mine 5 windows so that it was easier to use the kit supplied transom pieces. I think 6 would have been more historically accurate for 1812, especially since that is what the Hull model shows. I liked the 5 window configuration because the windows look square, whereas with 6 they would look thinner.

 

Anyway you do them, I feel they will look great.

[xken]

George, thank you very much for those pictures. I see I have a few minor adjustments to make on the galleries. Also good to see my assumption on the bottom and tops of the windows are parallel to each other. I knew there was molding and now I know what they should be.

Merry Christmas and Happy new Year to you and yours as well! 

[xken]

Tom, I did a quick sketch using my other CAD system (Corel CAD) with the same configuration of three panes up and across and the bottoms aligned with the gallery windows and the same height. I do not think this layout is correct because these windows need to open while the Gallery windows do not.

 

I looked at George's photos and the gray one from 1914 shows only two pane windows that do open. I do not have a picture of what they should be and am hoping Captain Steve can supply an image from that book he has like he did for the galleries.

 

Here is the CAD sketch of the five window layout. 

 

Captain Steve please help if you can?

[GLakie]

If you want to go with the 5-window layout, it looks like 4 of the stern timbers will have to be moved inwards toward the center. the 2 inboard ones on each side. And doing that will also mean relocating the outside gun ports as well.  I don't have the AOTS for Connie yet though. 

[CaptainSteve]

 

Captain Steve please help if you can?

 

No worries, Ken. 

 

Here are the four versions as given in Marquardt's AOTS Constitution ...

 

C2-1 Six window configuration after Corne's 1812 painting

 

C2-2 Five window configuration after Corne's 1812 painting

 

Corne's 1803 configuration

 

Current stern since circa 1870

 

 

In fact, this whole section is what has slowed my build right down. In truth, I have wanted to do a six-window configuration from almost the very beginning. But changing out the stern timber framing on this kit has proven to be a right PITA ... especially for someone possessing no skills as a scratch builder.

(However, I believe I am onto a solution ... finally)

Edited December 23, 2015 by CaptainSteve

[xken]

Captain Steve thanks for your help and images! Do you know if the five window really existed or was it just in a painting? I see the six and the five with the same year 1812 in paintings.  I have found absolutely nothing on the 5 or 6 window configurations with enough detail to build.

I have found some great photos of the current three window and may just end up sticking with it since it offers the best reference details.

Again thanks for your help!

Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Ken 

Here is a great photo showing the detail of the trim work.

Edited December 23, 2015 by xken

[CaptainSteve]

Ken. I really have no idea as to which version was used on any given date. In fact, two years+ of reading books on Connie and following every thread on her history here on MSW, has changed my mind from being absolutely certain that there were six windows (because THAT was how she looked on the old Revell plastic kit box art !!). Instead, I have come to the conclusion that no-one can yet give a definitive answer to the question of what she looked like at any particular point in time.

 

As a couple of others have mentioned, I am also most likely to give credence to the Hull model. My reasoning being simply that if the very sailors under Capt Hull didn't know how many windows she carried at the time of the Great Chase, then the rest of us don't have any chance of knowing for sure. 

Edited December 23, 2015 by CaptainSteve

[usedtosail]

There is still a lot of controversy on whether the Conny had 5 or 6 windows in 1812, which is the year I am building towards. I did exactly what George said to add 5 windows - moved the four transom pieces to fit between the window frames. I also did not add the spar deck chase ports as the notes I have said they weren't cut in until 1813. But it really comes down to what year your are going for and what other changes you want to make to conform to that configuration of the Conny. If you are building to today's configuration, I would keep the 3 windows as in the kit. If you are building to an older version you have to look at what other changes have been made since then.

[xken]

Captain Steve and Tom, thank you for your advice I will proceed with the three window setup. 

 

While waiting I planked the bottom of the galleries using Midwest #3008 basswood strips. At .0208" they were very pliable once soaked in water.

Here is the start keeping in mind to trim to allow for the cap plate.

 

Here they are roughed in. I used CA for this process on the wet strips which held right away.

 

Once completely dry they were then sanded. The hole is for the head.

 

After deciding to go the three window direction I then proceeded planking the transom after adding the window structure. Here is a tip that I use occasionally; I use the flat side of the tip of a blade to hold strips rather than pins which sometimes leave dimples in the edges, especially in wet strips. 

 

Here is the transom completed with the planking ready to move on to other details like window trim and gap filling.

 

Merry Christmas to all!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[GLakie]

The gallery's planking looks good!     Have a Merry Christmas Ken! 

[Guest Tim I.]

Puling up a seat. After watching what you did with the Niagara, I cannot wait to see what you do with the Connie.

 

- Tim

[gjdale]

Great work Ken - you're setting a high bar again!

[GLakie]

Hi Ken: Captain Steve posted a little more info about the stern config. if you're interested. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9468-us-frigates-constitutions-stern-during-1812-the-question-of-questions-5-or-6-windows/page-5#entry374649

[xken]

George thanks for the video link, very informative. I checked around looking for how other builds handled the trim molding and saw reference to polystyrene. Unless painted polystyrene will yellow over time due to UV exposure resulting in a light almond color. 

 

I then filed two half rounds in a piece of .020" brass sheet to a width of 3/32" wide. I then carefully and gently cut a 1/16" square strip down to a half round shape cutting a short section at a time on a steel block. Once two lengths were cut I then glued one onto 1/64" plywood as a carrier on an edge or a scored straight line. I then glued the second strip butted up against the first and allowed the CA to set. Then using the double section of the cutter I  carefully cleaned the center joint again on the steel block. The key to clean cutting is determining which way the grain goes to allow easy cutting. If you are chattering of chunking the wood you are cutting the wrong direction; turn the strip end for end.

 

 

Here is the finished molding clamped in place and is ready for priming and painting later once the transom is painted black.

 

 

Now to cut a couple of more lengths for the transom and side galleries. For those not wishing to make a cutter Northeastern Scale Lumber offers a 3/32" double bead, product code 332DBLBEAD at 24" long for a $1.45. This is a great site for purchasing various types of scale lumber including ready made deck sheets 3" wide x 24" long. 

 

 

[xken]

I spent some time installing the main rails and topgallent rail. This will strengthen the top structure for when I turn the hull upside down to add the hull planking.

 

Here are several views of them in place. I just had to do a little filling at the rear joints where the rail met the laser cut part. I also had to thicken the laser cut part on the inside to allow overlap with the inner wall planks. The exterior transom planking is already in place.

 

 

 

 

 

My deck planks arrived today so I will now start gluing the deck planks for the gun deck. These will be glued to four 1/32" plywood carriers that have already been fitted to the gundeck shape. I will also use black glue like I did on the Niagara for the joint caulking lines. 

 

 

[xken]

Working on the gundeck but having trouble posting updates so this is a test with one image.

Hope this works.

 

Admin----Well it worked with one; is there a size limit on posting?

Edited January 2, 2016 by xken