US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64

[6ohiocav]

Chainplates and Deadeyes.

 

I am getting things in order to install the channels. That means stropping (?) the deadeyes. I am not sure if that is the right term.

 

I used a 24 gauge black wire.  Picking up a tip on this forum, I experimented with different sized wire rings which when crimped, created the proper shape of the wired deadeyes. I ended up using a ¼ inch dowel rod to wrap the wire around to get my circles.

 

I cut them, then soldered the ends, and carefully crimped the middle. I broke the solder joint on about 1/3 of them, but was able to crank out the required 20.

 

I also worked on the bottom chainplate that attaches to the hull with carriage bolts (pins). I tried different ideas.  I started making them out of the same 24 gauge black wire by wrapping it around a pin jig, then soldering the middle, leaving the holes at each end.  I did not like how it looked, and it took way to long.  This is a very small piece.

 

 

I then decided to take a different approach.  Starting with a 1mm brass rod, I flattened the end with a metal punch, and drilled a small hole with the pin vice.  I then cut the rod to size using a jig to measure, and flattened and drilled the other end.  I then blackened the piece.  This worked reasonably well and look like the chainplates in the plans.  I turned out 20 of these. 

 

I still have to make the wire parts, but believe that will go smoother, since it is a simple wire wrap.  I have to work on the deadeyes for the stays, and based on suggestions from this forum, will mount the completed deadeyes on the channels that I have created (still need painted) before attaching the assemblies to the hull.

 

Here are some photos showing the deadeye work.

[6ohiocav]

And here are some photos of the lower chainplate assembly

[mikiek]

Sounds like you need to get into hard soldering. When done correctly the joints are much more solid. It's not that difficult or expensive.

 

I've had a few suggestions/reminders to add pins to the channel edge, drill matching holes in the hull where the channel will be mounted and insert the pins as you glue the channel to the hull. Apparently the channels will get a lot of stress as you tighten shrouds, etc.

 

Keep up the good work!

[6ohiocav]

Hervie,

 

Thanks for stopping in.  I love the Syren. I will be following along. I am always trying to pick up techniques from the experts on this forum.

[6ohiocav]

Rudder and Tiller Assemble

Spent some time in the paint booth, putting on a layer of primer and flat black on my rudder, gudgeons and pin assemblies.  I also painted my channels. I used an aerosol primer and first coat of black paint.  My final coat of paint was put on with the airbrush. I stained the top of the rudder that rose above the deck with a cherry stain. Overall, a good finish for all.

 

I then attached the rudder to the hull. I scratched off the paint on the hull, measured and re-measured and glued the pins in place.

 

I attached the tiller and then proceeded to work on the tackle ropes.  The plans call for set of single 3/32 blocks that are seized to an eyebolt in the waterway on one end and belayed to the tiller on the other. Going back to my gun tackle experience, I went ahead and created two loops with pre-made seizings and stropped them to a block. I also placed an additional piece of .008 black rope on top that I used to seize to a hand made eyebolt.

 

For the block at the tiller end, I first molded a single strand of .008 black rope into a circle eight and through a series of vices and tape, was able to position it such to seize the intersection point, leaving two tales that could tighten each loop. With one loop, I placed a block inside and tightened it down. I then placed the other loop over the tiller handle and tightened it down. I then applied a small drop of medium CA to freeze the knot and trimmed of the tales.

 

I then rigged the lines, and tied the tails off on the tiller handle as per the plans. This “little” project took all evening.

 

Here are some photos.

[mikiek]

Glad someone is making progress. Lead on brother!

 

Not sure if Niagara had this and I don't have plans in front of me. On a lot of ships the pintles are mounted to the rudder in a recess. This has the effect of bringing the rudder closer to the sternpost and making the tail end of the ship a little more hydro-dynamic - the wash from the hull runs over the rudder cleaner. Looks like Eagle had it. If you have that practicum check page 69.  Probably never would have noticed it but I was just reading about rudders a few nites ago.

 

Other than that your wood work is impeccable!

[jbshan]

Mike has it right.  The leading edge of the rudder and of the pintles should be even.  The notch on the rudder should be large enough for the gudgeons to slide into, then the rudder can drop onto the gudgeons, leaving the smallest gap possible. 
This is all in favor of the hydrodynamic flow off the hull and over the rudder.

I tried to get some pics of the rudder on my Lawrence both off and on to show the process, but the camera is glitching.  This is for future reference.  99% wouldn't see anything.

[6ohiocav]

CHANNELS AND CHAINS

 

I fabricated the channels, cut the chain notches, and for the main mast channels, cut out the boat davit notch.  Sanded, primed and painted flat black with the air brush.

 

I then made the final long link for the shroud chains, after many trials and errors to get the right length, and wired up the small deadeyes for the stay chains.

 

I then attached them to the channels, and pinned the chains with a blackened head of a straight pin. I will adjust the angles if necessary when I rig the shrouds.

 

And then I ran into some frustrations.  I very much like this kit, and have complimented Model Expo continuously throughout this process. However, I have to question something. The plans call for “7/64 deadeyes for the topmast backstays” and “9/64 deadeyes for the lower shrouds.” Fair enough. Then why does the kit only supply “3/32 and 1/8 deadeyes”? I realize we are dealing with very small differences that are lost to the naked eye, but there are many examples where the plans call for items and sizes that do not match the kit supplied implements.  I realize that cost is an issue, and as I have said this is a GREAT KIT. But really guys…

 

Also, the kit does not provide bullseyes. The plans call for you to drill out the center of the supplied deadeyes. Can someone teach me how to drill out the center of a 3/32 deadeye with three holes to make a bullseye. Way to small and brittle, and no way to center a small drill bit. They are made of hardwood, and to score a center hole with a pin, you have to press so hard that the deadeye breaks before you make a mark. It would be appreciated if the kit simply supplied them. I gave up after an hour after realizing the best way to open up the center was to chisel it out with an exacto knife. They looked pretty bad, and forget trying to hone out the middle with a drill bit, they only break apart.  Therefore, my top gallant backstays will be rigged to a deadeye instead of a bullseye.

 

There are going to be many other uses of bullseyes, so any suggestions are welcome.

[mtaylor]

Darrel,

 

Try soaking them in thin CA before drilling.  I made some for another project using dowel that was soaked in water/whiteglue and allowed to sit for a few days.  They're still a PITA to make.  You might also check Ages of Sail and see if they sell the bullseyes.  Might be listed as "hearts", "heart blocks" though.

[ca.shipwright]

Darrell,

Another way that might work is to strop the deadeye with wire, twisting the tails tight. This wire frame may give the deadeye enough support to prevent breaking while you drill it out.

 

Hope this helps

 

Regards

[6ohiocav]

Thanks guys. Tried both and nada.  The problem is getting a drill bit to seat in the center and not migrate into one of the adjoining deadeye holes. It would be better off to give me a solid disc with no holes. I can't scribe a starter hole into the hardwood deadeye without breaking it. Veryfrustrating.

 

I will go ahead and just acquire some.

 

Worked on the starboard chainplates. Mainmast done, working on foremast.

[mikiek]

I have a diamond tipped reamer set I believe I got from MicroMark. There are 3-4 tips of different sizes, the smallest is fairly fine pointed. I was able to make a starter hole made with that. Hold the tip in place and twist the handle back & forth - just grind out enough material to keep a bit in place.

 

I did not attempt to drill a hole, but start out with a real small micro bit, and get a little larger with successive drillings. I'm guessing a press would be required.

 

 

It's hard to see (sort of white-ish looking), but there is a starter hole in between the predrilled ones.

[ca.shipwright]

Darrell,

 

I'll give you an alternate solution that may be of use.

 

1. Start with a piece of wood fairly oversized as to what the finished product will be (l x w). If you are making several of this item, the thickness should be that number of the item times 2.

 

2. Drill your hole.

 

3. Finish the outside by sanding, filing or what ever else you usually do.

 

4. Slice off the completed parts like from a loaf of bread.

 

Alternatively, reverse steps 2 and 3.

 

This will give you extra pieces. We all know that many will make it to the dump.

 

There is also a type of drill bit called a brad point bit. This is a wood working bit that has a spike in the tip that will act as a starter and has a more flat angle to prevent rip out. I find that I don't need the as much pressure when I use this bit.

 

 

 

Hope this helps

Edited August 31, 2016 by ca.shipwright

[mikiek]

Interesting idea ca. Some cherry rigging blocks might look pretty good.

[6ohiocav]

Mike and Mike,

 

Good advice.  Your thoughts have given me an idea.  I am going to work on this tonight and let you know if it works out.

 

Finished the starboard chainplates.  Another tedious job to check off the list. I am getting dangerously close to the rigging stage. Oh my....

[ca.shipwright]

I am getting ready to put the starboard chain plates on my Endeavour. I took a break after the port side to do some of the masts and bowsprit. I too am getting close to the rigging.

 

Regards

[6ohiocav]

Mike and Friends,

 

Perhaps this is a good time to reach out to the masses for a life raft and some advice on the "Order of Things in Rigging a model ship"  I have surfed many a log looking for advice on when to do what, when to actually step the masts, attach the bowsprit, how much rigging should we do before hand, etc. Obviously, I need to focus first on the standing rigging.  

 

Before I start piecing together the cryptic instructions on the two sheets of rigging plans, and begin planning on what to do first, I was hoping for some solid advice on where to start. I think I can handle HOW to do certain things (tie the shrouds, stays and such) I am searching for ​WHEN ​to do them in relation to each other. Each layer that is added has to restrict the work area of the next layer I would think. 

 

I get the impression that some things are obvious. I am now working on seizing the required blocks on the trees and masts while they are off the ship, which by the way is a challenge in and of itself since there is no good diagram in any of the plans, or a list of simple instructions that definitively lists what is needed.  I am finding that I have to go through both rigging plans and even some of the previous sheets to pick up a "full picture" of what is required.

 

If I ever get all of the blocks tied on, what do I do next?

 

Am I making any sense?

[Elijah]

On my ship, I will start with the standing rigging, such as the stays and shrouds, then do the main topmost back stays, then rig the main boom, then the gaff, then the main topmast staysail, then the gaff on the foremast, then the jib and fore staysail, and lastly, the flags. This probably doesn't help much, but I hope it does !

[mikiek]

Lever's book even shows how it was done back in the day. Using additional poles to get the fore, main and mizzen up and how to keep them in place.

 

The Eagle practicum is another decent source since that ship was very similar to Niagara. Chuck has a practicum for Syren you can download from Model Expo - Chaps 18,19,20

 

After seeing the plans from several other kits, I have to say the Niagara rigging plan (1 page) is very intimidating because everything is on one page - standing, running and sails. Most other plans show standing on one page and running on another and it looks a heck of a lot easier.

Edited September 1, 2016 by mikiek

[6ohiocav]

Elijah

 

That actually does help -alot. It is also somewhat consistent with what I thought. Still have some odds and ends to finish before getting to it, so I will continue to give this some thought.

 

Mike,

 After seeing the plans from several other kits, I have to say the Niagara rigging plan (1 page) is very intimidating because everything is on one page - standing, running and sails. Most other plans show standing on one page and running on another and it looks a heck of a lot easier.

 

 

I have 2 rigging sheets.  Sheet 5 entitled "Rigging Profile" has a starboard view ship profile. Very busy and a beast to decipher.  I also have Sheet 6 entitled "Rigging Sections and Details"  It has a diagram of the main mast looking aft, the belaying plan, some close ups of various course and yard slings, and a diagram of yard brace rigging. Do you have these?

[mikiek]

Yes, but I found page 6 not very helpful and as you say there is way too much shown on page 5. I'm sure it would be fine if you have rigged 3-4 builds but for the rookies, well I'll just leave it at that.

 

I'll see if I can copy the rigging page(s) from another set of plans for you. We may want to do it off line to keep MSW off the hook.

 

I did read some of the Syren rigging practicum. It could be useful to you.

[mtaylor]

Darrell,

 

Typically it's front to back and bottom to top...  forestays and then shrouds and backstays..  Standing rigging first then running.   However, we're all different in how we work.  Some build up the masts and rigging on ship, many do as much off ship as they can.  Such as assemble masts, add upper stays, etc.  Yards.... as much as possible off ship.  Then there's ratlines... <gulp>  I found for me, save the rats on the lower shrouds until last as there's always a few lines you can't quite get to with the rats in place.  

 

Naturally..  your milage may vary.  

[jbshan]

Perhaps, and I haven't gotten there yet, follow Lever's progression as the masts are assembled and that will answer part of the question.

[6ohiocav]

Deck Furniture, Cleats and Eyebolts,

 

I am working hard to complete sheet 3 from the plans which should clear the way to begin rigging the ship. My “odds and ends” have taken over a week, and I am still not finished.

 

I decided to finally glue down all of the deck furniture that I built.  I had to construct the capstan.  It was an intricate piece (of course what isn’t). Small parts, fine painting with red, green and black, and a brass ring on top with blackened pin heads for carriage bolts.  The ring was a challenge. After trying to cut it out by hand (could not get the inside diameter round enough), I decided to wedge the brass sheet between two pieces of hard maple and drilled a hole with a sharp ½ inch drill bit.  I then cut the outside diameter with some tin snips. After about 4 tries, I got one that passed inspection.

 

I then glued down the pump, capstan, skylights and companionway.  I had to deal with the deck crowding. Joel brought to my attention how the plans have the capstan wedged between the main skylight and companionway such that you could never have room to operate it. He is also of the opinion that the original ship did not have the deck buildings. To compromise, I decided to mount just the main skylight and companionway and such that there is more room around the capstan. I left the captain’s skylight out.  I gave my captain his own companionway instead.

 

I also mounted all of the cleats and eyebolts on the inside bulwarks.  I used boxwood cleats from Syren. I had to sand all of the laser burn marks and soaked them in some cherry stain. I pinned them and attached them.

 

 

I also attached all of the eyebolts on the outside hull, most of which go to the bow. Still working on the smoke stack.

 

I am now faced with the Hammock rails.  I have surmised that I should install this before I rig the fore and main masts. That means 44 metal rails, and a lot of mental work figuring out how to construct adequate looking hammocks and canvas covers. I don’t have the material, so I will be making a trip to the craft store.  Any suggestions on the canvas material?????

 

Here are some photos of the work as of today.  I just realized that I have not included full size photos of the ship lately. The deck is starting to look like a real “busy” structure. I like how it has turned out so far.

[6ohiocav]

Mark, Mike, Elijah. Mike and Joel,

 

Thanks for the heads up on the rigging plan. Thanks for all the likes as well.

 

I feel like I should install the hammock rails first. Thoughts?

[mikiek]

A mean fighting machine! Looking good!

 

No experience, but I would probably wait on the hammock metalwork. Seems like they will just be in the way - at least until you get the lower mast spars in place. It's also another one of those things that is debatable as to whether the real Niagara had them. Several kits I have use a sort of black nylon netting material for the hammock enclosure. I like that look better than trying to do material at 1:64.  Don't forget the capstan poles - they're stashed on the bulwark near the stern. The only thing I noticed is the decking under the capstan. Check your plans.

 

All the effort is starting to pay off sir.

[jbshan]

You could make and fit the hammock rails, including any mounting holes, then put them on when you feel comfortable.  Keep them in mind as you progress with the rigging, though.

Yes, the plans aren't simple, but they are fairly complete.  You will be recreating the replica.  If you want to produce a period rigging plan, there will be much research ahead.

[mikiek]

Totally forgot about this - the Erie Museum used to sell a set of Niagara plans. I picked up a set early this year. Those have a sail plan page which I imagine is the running rigging and a mast/spar page which shows the standing rigging. Again, when you see them separated it doesn't look near as bad.

 

I  tried searching around on their site but couldn't find them, but then I'm a terrible searcher. As someone with an interest in Niagara, I think they are kinda cool just to have. PM me if you can't find them either.

 

As Joel mentions, what we have is the rigging/spar plans for the replica. I've learned they purposely made some things differently due to modern technology and smaller crews. For instance the masts are quite a bit shorter than the original. The shallow water brig design was very tipsy, a crew had to be on their toes and ready at hand on the spars to handle big wind gusts and the taller masts just worsened the issue. With a large crew it was possible, but the small crews that go out on the replica would have a difficult (if not impossible) time trying to handle that. So they shortened the masts.

[6ohiocav]

Fellow Niagara builder, Mikiek and I were puttzing around the internet looking for rigging plans for our builds and we came across the Niagara Crew Handbook. This 175 page document has some interesting stuff. At the back are some diagrams including a detailed look at the Martingale Rigging, Pinrail Diagram, Deck Arrangement,  and Spar Plan.  Here is the link to the handbook.

 

 https://brigniagara.files.wordpress.com/2015/05/niagara-crew-handbook.pdf

 

I copied and scanned the diagrams if you just want those. 

 

This is of course of the modern ship, and would not be representative of the historic version.

Niagara ship plans.pdf

[scott larkins]

WOW! That looks great.  I've just started the hatches today and looking at yours for reference really helped.  Any tips besides simply follow the plans, measures twice and cut once?