US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64

[6ohiocav]

Bullseyes

 

So here is the story of my trials and tribulations on creating 1/16 bullseyes. Drilling out the centers of the kit supplied deadeyes, as suggested by the instructions was unacceptable and frustrating.  So with some thought and some practice, I came up with an acceptable procedure, using my mini lathe.

 

I turned some cherry stock down to the correct diameter, and carved out the shapes of the bulleyes with a parting tool. I then set the center with my spindle, and using a pin vice, with the lathe turning slow, drilled a hole down the center.  I drilled only through the first bullseye, and partly into the second one.  That kept the stock from splitting, and maintained my center for the next bullseye.

 

Then, leaving the pin vice drill bit in the hole, I carefully cut off the bullseye with my jewelers saw.  I cranked down the RPM to as slow as possible. Keeping the bit in the hole allowed me to collect the finished bulleye when the saw cut through.  It acutally worked.

 

Here are some photos.

[6ohiocav]

Bowsprit and Bowsprit Yard Assembly, Lashings and Preliminary Rigging.

 

Now that I have some bullseyes, I was able to prepare the Bowsprit, Jib and Bowsprit Yard for assembly and rigging.

 

I seized my bullseyes onto eyebolts and inserted them into the bow.

 

I created the brass collar for the jib and assembled the bowsprit.  I lashed the assembly with kit supplied rope.

 

I created the sling for the bowsprit yard and secured it to the bowsprit.

 

This weekend, I will continue to hang the remaining bullseyes and hearts to the bowsprit assembly and once complete, attach it to the hull.

 

The pictures I show only have it set in place.

 

Very tedious and time consuming.  However, set in place makes this actually look like a real ship.

[6ohiocav]

Completed Bowsprit/jib Assembly

[6ohiocav]

Scott,

 

Thanks for stopping in.

 

For my hatches, I cut blocks of balsa wood to the proper size of each, and used strip wood cut with 45 degree angles to wrap around the blocks.  This maintained proper size and kept them square. It also provided a solid base for assembly. As long as you don't glue the strip wood to the balsa block, it works. Once done, I glued a thin strip ledge for the grating. 

 

Hope this helps.

[mikiek]

Your boat just got almost twice as long. I'm dreading that. My workbench has room side to side but not near enough front to back

 

I didn't realize all those bullseyes were needed at the bow.

 

One question for you - I can't see this in your pix. Did the bowsprit fit into the opening between the port and starboard bulwarks? I had to take a couple of cleats off for mine to pass thru. Wondering if I need to open that space up a little.

 

I envy your woodworking skills. I've had a couple of problems I know could be resolved with a machined part but I have no idea how to do it.

 

I'm also curious about your reasoning for doing the bowsprit first. Not that there is a right or wrong way - just wondering.

[6ohiocav]

Hey Mike,

 

It is amazing how we are facing the very same challenges. My bowsprit with the cleats JUST fits in that opening. I have to contort it in an exact way to get it to pass. I had to open the hole a little to even up the angle from port to starboard.  I also painted the inside with flat black.

 

My choice of order was based on the ad hoc survey I sent out. the majority said to rig from front to back - bottom to top. It makes sense.  seems like most Niagara builders chose this method.

 

By the way, does anyone know the best way to tie off lanyards for bullseyes. I have seen them lashed to themselves or sometimes frapped.

[ca.shipwright]

Mike

If you have room, add a drop leaf to part of the front of your bench. Install it with door hinges. Let it down, or take it off when not needed.

 

Regards

[mikiek]

Interesting idea ca

[mikiek]

Hey Darrell - Have you given any thought to how you are going to do the galley stack? That brittania piece leaves a lot to be desired. I can do the suggested pipe with the flat support pieces but I've no idea how to come up with a cone shaped top.

[6ohiocav]

Further work on Bowsprit

 

I spent the last few days rigging bullseyes and hearts to the bowsprit and jib boom.

 

I tied on the brace and spritsail yard lift blocks. I tied on the bobstay bullseye. I also created the bowsprit shroud collar with bullseyes and attached that. I would suggest that you do that BEFORE you attach the jib boom to the bowsprit.

 

I also prepared the open hearts for the forestay and fore preventer stays. I created the grove with a micro-file and stained the laser cut plart with some cherry stain. After seeing photos, I decided to serve the rope for the collars.  This gave me a chance to try out my Syren Serving Machine. I'll be darned but the simple machine works great. Making the rope was one thing, but wrapping it around the bowsprit and lashing it together was a test in patience and dexterity- something that I don't have enough of. I am getting better though.

 

Once done, a came across a signature part of the build- installing the bowsprit assembly.  I think I did everything I could do before attaching it, and if not, at least it is now secured to the ship instead of a vice.  I then lashed the timber to the bow.  Another tedious job.

 

And yes, mywork table is big enough.

 

I will be working on the lower fore mast next to get it prepared for stepping and begin the rigging process in earnest.

[6ohiocav]

Mike,

 

Once again, we think a like. The Galley Pipe is going to be a challenge. We are going to need XKen's advice on how to create that cone shaped top. I have looked at his log, and he made one from brass, but i can't figure out how he did it. It looks great. I have been avoiding that project. 

 

I am still trying to decide how to tie off the lanyards for the bullseyes.  I have also pretty much decided to abandon the kit supplied rope for the standing rigging. The black spools are all way out of size, and is so stiff that when it is stretched, you can still see the folds. I have tried to soak it in hot water, and it really does not help. I am going to order new rope and will start rigging as soon as it arrives.

[mikiek]

Knowing nothing about turning, but I was thinking something like this. I have a brass rod that is the diameter of the base of the cone. Cut off a piece and mount in a lathe chuck. Mount a cutting edge above and about 1/8" in from the right. Begin to cut at that point, moving the tool to the right and into the rod. So, a tweak to the right, a tweak downwards, repeat. It might take a few cycles but it seems like you would end up with something conical. Maybe some filing to smooth it out.

 

Since the cone would be mounted with the point facing upwards, you probably would not need to bore out the underside.

 

For full disclosure - I have no idea what I'm doing with a lathe.    Do not try this at home

[6ohiocav]

Mike,

 

You did give me an idea. I could make this out of wood on my mini lathe. My supply of Holly would turn out a pretty smooth surface that when painted, would look like metal (I think). I am going to give that a try and get back to you with photos.

 

Any turning of metal or brass stock would require the use of an engine lathe. My equipment is only for wood, although I have access to large metal turning engine lathes. IF we were to do this in brass, we might be better off if we stamped the conical top, although finding a  proper die (which we may be able to create with the very tip of a large drill bit bored into metal stock) would be required. I think I will try that too.

 

DOES ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS???

[mikiek]

What a great idea on the wood!  Or my favorite - styrene.  I tried stamping some thin brass sheet, but I could never get the edges trimmed well enough.

 

I do think you're on to something using an alternate material.

 

Wondering if you turned some wood, would the process be similar to what I described or would you just put a file on the end of the piece and do it by hand?

[6ohiocav]

I could turn a small cone with out much problem. Interestingly enough, when turned and sanded, holly looks a lot like styrene. No grain at all. I will give it a try tonight and post some pictures.

[jbshan]

Wrap paper around a small dowel and make a cone of paper for the top?  That way you could have some overlap of the hood to keep the rain out.  RN stoves had a hood on one side and the whole stack rotated for the wind.  We have the replica for the kit, other versions are allowed.

[scott larkins]

Wow, this is coming along really well. Nice work.

[Elijah]

I'm not sure is this is what you mean, but Toni Levine's stove pipe has a conical shape, and it turned out great. Her ship is the Atalanta and is scratch built. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/198-hms-atalanta-by-tlevine-1775-148-scale-from-tffm-plans/page-54

[jbshan]

Yes, Elijah, that's the basic RN type.  I found examples of t-shaped ones also, with verticals off the ends of the T, though that was a bit later.  A stove pipe type almost needs a stove, to make the flue work.  An open hearth would need a larger base for the flue, like a fireplace chimney.

[mikiek]

Well this wanna be lathe master researched a bit and the proper term in the turning world would be a taper. Different techniques produce different angles. You can offset the headstock or tailstock which will put the piece at an offset. Or you can use a compound slide which puts the cutting tool at an offset. Of course then there is the taper attachment. If I only knew what all that meant

 

Seriously, the compound slide sounds like the way to go. I imagine Darrell will come up with something.

[6ohiocav]

Guys,

 

Borrowing a photo from XKen's Niagara build, this is what Mike and I are trying to accomplish.  Ken was able to turn a brass conical top to his stack with his engine lathe. I don't have that capacity, so I will try and build one of these out of Holly and paint it. 

 

The figure on the left is the kit supplied stack.  Not very authentic in my view (and in the view of nearly every other Niagara builder).

[xken]

Darrel, no lathe try a combination of materials of brass tubes and a wood top. Tubes can be cut for length of stack,slip ring from another tube, brass strips for connectors then shape a wood cap that could be painted and weathered with soot to blend.

Just food for thought. Keep the great job you are doing.

[6ohiocav]

Thanks Ken,

 

wood top and brass tube is the plan. I hope it turns out half as good as yours did.

[mikiek]

Or you could just cut the cone off the kit part.

[6ohiocav]

"TYE" Sheaves???

 

While I work on the galley pipe, here is a question that I simply can't answer, despite some research.

 

What on earth is a "tye" sheave. My plans call on for them on the fore and main topgallant/royal masts.  I have attached a photo of the plans.  I understand what a sheave is, and I especially get what a "dumb" sheave is (I am good at dumb). Is this a special type of sheave/pulley system?  Can it be accomplished by simply drilling a hole. The small diameter of these masts do not present a great platform for a true pulley sheave.

 

AND that begs another question.  Focusing soley on the Foremast for this one, I note that the topgallant and Flying Jib Stay belay somehow to the fore topallant/royal mast near or at one of these "tye" sheaves. DO THEY? and if so, how do you actually tie it off.  IF NOT, how do I tie it off to the mast, and if they don't, what does tie into the tye sheave. The back Stays?

 

The same question for the royal stay?

 

Finally, I also note that the halliard runs through a block near the lower tye sheave. Since I am not attaching sales, should I (does anyone) rig the halliard?

 

Am i making any sense?

[6ohiocav]

And after further reading of the plans, (gee why would I be smart enough to do that) I may have perhaps answered my first question.  Seems that the tye sheaves are for the royal and topgallant yard lifts - duhhh. And yes, it would appear that an elongated hole will suffice.

 

Still looking for advice on belaying the stays though.

[jbshan]

The tyes are halliards for the t'gallant and t'gallant royal yards, a simpler version than found lower down the mast, just a single sheave needed which can be simulated by a hole.  The stays at this level would go over with a simple eye around the mast that would 'cinch up' against the swelling between t'gallant and royal pole mast.  The lower end would have any adjustment devices needed.  In this case, the fore royal stay goes around the dumb sheave at the tip of the flying jibboom, through the dolphin striker, to a thimble, where it becomes two, port side belays to an eyebolt, strbd goes through hull, belays to cleat on bowsprit.  This is all on the same plans sheet, just above the scale drawing.  You have to trace lines here and there about the plans on occasion, maybe using a straightedge to see where the line you're following goes when they cross and become confusing.

The royals here are accurately t'gallant royals, not on a royal mast, but on a long pole t'gallant mast, and are 'set flying', no lifts or braces.

Edited September 28, 2016 by jbshan

[6ohiocav]

Galley Pipe

 

I decided to scrap the Brittania galley pipe and make my own. I decided to turn the cone and pipe on the mini lathe out of holly. I then cut brass straps from the kit supplied inventory to act as brackets for the top. Using a drop of medium CA and with a lot of patience, I was able to position the three brackets in good enough position to square up the top.  Some flat black paint and a wooden base with my red paint mix and I can scratch this one off the list.  Took all night - one little part.

 

Sorry  about the poor quality of the photos.

 

The pipe is so delicate that I will attach it to the ship at the very end of the build. It is only setting on the deck.  I can see myself knocking that over

[mikiek]

Stack looks great!

[ca.shipwright]

It just doesn't get any better than that!