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Black thread-What do you use as glue for it that will not "silver"? Other than CA.


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Ahoy Mates


Just wanted to know what types of glues you use when rigging in black rope other than CA that will not "silver" when dried?


I have tried diluted PVA glues with a range of results. From being unseen when dry to being white-"silvered" air under the glue when it's dry.


I use Titebond for my Tan Syren rope with no problems,but the black is different for some reason unknown to me. Where the tan will take to the Titebond with little effort,the black doesn't want to hold onto the glue and dry the same as the tan.


What do you use,and how do you use it? And what should I be doing different for the black rope that is not the same as for the tan and light rope?




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Book binders PVA is a choice.  It dries clear and if slightly diluted should mostly soak in and not produce a film layer.

Titebond works well for wood, but it has a pH that is about as acidic as vinegar  ~ 3.0.  Another option would be to use

black ink to dilute -

You could get a larger supply of the tan and dye it with a walnut dye and have something that is closer in color to

rope treated with pre-petrol age tar.

Is your rope cotton or linen?  If it is a synthetic polymer, I have no suggestions.  The only synthetic or polymer that I

am willing to use at all is the PVA itself. 

NRG member 45 years



HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly


Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers


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not the answer you are looking for, but i use c/a and then use a diluted mat black paint over any any marks, 

Its all part of Kev's journey, bit like going to the dark side, but with the lights on

All the best

Kevin :omg:



On the build table

HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Kevin - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Feb 2023 



HMHS Britannic by Kevin 

SD 14  - Marcle Models - 1/70 - March 2022 -  Bluebell - Flower Class - Revel - 1/72   U552 German U Boat - Trumpeter - 1/48  Amerigo Vespucci     1/84 - Panart-   HMS Enterprise  -CAF -  1/48     


St-Nectan-Mountfleet-models-steam-trawler-1/32 - Completed June 2020

HMS Victory - Caldercraft/Jotika - 1/72 - Finished   Dorade renamed Dora by Kevin - Amati - 1/20 - Completed March 2021 

Stage Coach 1848 - Artesania Latina - 1/10 -Finished Lady Eleanor by Kevin - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1/64 - Fifie fishing boat

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Hi Keith,

               I use Aleene's Tacky Glue for all my model applications. Dries clear and has real good initial grab, Available at Walmart. worth a try..... ;)





      regards, Keith

Current build:


     A Battleship


Past builds:


   The Unicorn - The Lindworm - Malahini -  Shinobi Maru  -  The MaryJane - The Weeligstraal

















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I used two things on my AVS, both seemed to work fine.


Dilute (50/50) Weld Bond (white PVA) worked fine, takes a while to dry.  I used this for all of my rope coils.


Matte Varnish or Medium (I use Vallejo, and can't really tell the difference between the varnish or medium).  Dries completely invisible on everything I've ever used it on.  I find it great for things like securing a rope to a spar because it dries invisibly on both the rope (whether tan or black) and the wood.  It's also great for repairing lines the come loose from spars (like lifts) as you just put the line back into place and then apply the varnish with a paint brush.  So far (knock on wood) none of the lines secured this way have come loose when transporting the model hundreds of miles in the car.

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