Armed Virginia Sloop by Hill202 - Model Shipways - scale 1:48

[Hill202]

This is my build log for the AVS. I chose this kit for my first one because there are several great build threads on it. It will be fairly obvious that I'm copying a couple of the build logs as close as I can.

 

Like I said in the introduction section, I have a long history with building and flying RC aircraft. I'll try to resist the urge to install servos and an engine. Once I complete this, I'll change my profile pic to a ship...

 

I've cleaned and trued the bulkheads and keel. There was quite a bit of adjusting to do to the slots in the keel.

 

I've cut the rabbet and am in the process of installing the walnut keel pieces. The rabbet is not shown in these pics.

Edited October 7, 2016 by Hill202

[Hill202]

Hello Zolton, I've read your build log on the AVS and yours is looking great! Thanks for the detailed log, I'm sure it's going to be a lot of help to me, as I progress.

 

Here is a picture of the rabbet. I hope it's right because there is not a lot of wood left at the keel. I used some planks to see how they would fit and I believe they will lay correctly at the rabbet. (I think)

 

 

[Hill202]

Here is a shot with the bulkheads dry fitted in the keel.

 

 

[Hill202]

The recommended angle blocks are going to make installing the bulkheads easy.

[Hill202]

I've noticed that some of you guys are using Weldbond and some are using Titebond. Does Titebond set up faster than Weldbond?

[DocBlake]

Actually, Hill, I think Weldbond has faster initial tack, but takes longer to set.  Titebond is essentially set in stone after about 45 minutes.  For my money, the advantage of Weldbond is that you can "unglue" the bond with denatured alcohol.  Also it's easier to clean up any goofs with sandpaper after the glue is dry.  If Titebond dries, you'll never get it out of the pores of the wood and it will make any staining or finishing a problem

 

Don't get me wrong!  I build full size furniture and Titebond is my standard for that application.  I use Weldbond for model work, though.

 

Nice job on cutting the rabbet!

Edited October 8, 2016 by DocBlake

[Hill202]

Thanks guys. DocBlake, based on what your saying, I think I'll stay with the Weldbond. I'm sure I"ll need to debond something sooner or later. (probably sooner)

 

I'm thinking, what I believe most new guys are thinking at this point..planking is not too far away.

Edited October 8, 2016 by Hill202

[Hill202]

I finished with the bulkhead installation and got the aft sub deck put on. I've began adding reinforcement blocks between the bulkheads and worked on fairing the tops of the bulkheads. I enlarged the slots in the main sub deck and dry fit it. I have some shimming to do on the top and the outer edges of 3 bulkheads. I'm going to take it real slow thru the shimming and fairing process and try to get it right. There is a lot of work to be done before I can even think about planking.

 

 

[Hill202]

You can see a lot of shims and fairing needed on the sides of the bulkheads.

Edited October 11, 2016 by Hill202

[Hill202]

This is a dry fit of the main sub deck. I am going to glue in the mast mortise blocks before gluing the deck down. The practicum has you adding them from the bottom, after the deck is installed.

Edited October 11, 2016 by Hill202

[Hill202]

Hello Hill,these are critical steps(shiming and fairing) to get a nice even surface on the hull for planking.

 

Hello Zoltan. I read somewhere, that beginners like myself, have a tendency to rush the process of fairing.

 

In looking back, I have to wonder if it would have been better to clean the lazer bevel and char on the outer edges of the bulkheads, after gluing them in. I took a little too much off in the process and created work for myself now. 

[donrobinson]

Hi Joe, all is looking good. That is the mistake I made with my AVS was to fair the bulkheads before installation, I needed to do a lot of shimming also but eventually it all worked out but it haunted me for a long time during the build Since then I have always faired the bulkheads after they have been installed and glued. Others may argue this but for me it works. Have fun

[Hill202]

I thought it might be easier to shape the bow filler blocks before installing the main deck. I think it did make it easier. I was able to just hold the block and trace the outline of the bulkhead. I left it a little fat, so I'll be able to sand it down to match the angle of the bulkhead after it is faired. In hindsight, I probably should have faired it first.

 

It's amazing how the details really stand out in a picture versus looking at it on the work table.

Edited October 15, 2016 by Hill202

[Hill202]

Just a small update. I have started fairing and got the filler block sanded down. Just ignore the wood filler in the corner. Now I just hope I can match the filler block for the other side.

[Hill202]

I'll say it again. If you want to get a good look at the details of your work, just post a picture here. The camera does not miss anything.

 

I am reworking the rabbet as I go. I don't think it was deep enough. Does the outer layer of planking sit on top of the keel or flush with the edge?

[Hill202]

Checking symmetry. This is my first time working with basswood. It is easier than balsa to shape. I roughed it in with a dremel sanding drum and then sanded by hand from there.

Edited October 15, 2016 by Hill202

[DocBlake]

Nice job on the filler blocks, Joe. The final layer of planking is actually perpendicular to the keel amidships. At the stern the planking flattens out and is flush with the keel and sternpost.

[MichaelB]

Looking really good Joe! Looking forward to see how your build unfolds.

[Hill202]

Thanks guys. This is a great site with seriously talented people, that don't mind helping newcomers.

 

MichaelB, yes stick around. I'm sure my build log will be entertaining when I start planking. 

Edited October 15, 2016 by Hill202

[Hill202]

The first photo shows the method and the second photo shows the results so far. The plank needs to lay flat across the profile of the bulkheads, correct? There are 4 or 5 bulkheads amidships that look to me, like no sanding is needed. The plank lays flat there. At bulkhead C and D, where the plank turns, it almost creates a double bevel, when you sand across them. You can see at D that it is not touching across all the way. When I try to blend D with E it changes the angle of the bevel.

 

I have not figured R out yet. I've seen where several people have struggled with the angle there.

 

Let me know if you need a bigger photo. ( kidding)

Edited October 16, 2016 by Hill202

[DocBlake]

Hi Joe!

 

Take your time with the fairing of the bulkheads, and make sure every plank lies flat on each bulkhead it touches. It will make planking the hull much easier. I can see that the 4th bulkhead from the bow needs to be sanded down so the plank has a nice smooth lie across it's whole length.

[Hill202]

Thanks guys.

 

The first photo shows where a shim is needed. The other two photos show the repair and results. I keep dipping into the planks for shimming. I hope they provided  a few extra planks.

Edited October 17, 2016 by Hill202

[Hill202]

The port side is faired. I am tapering bulkhead R on the same line as the bearding line. That is how the plans show it. Looking at the photo, it seems I need to take a little more off. I also see a hump at the sixth bulkhead from the rear. I believe that's the one I shimmed. I never noticed that hump until i saw the photo.

Edited October 17, 2016 by Hill202

[Hill202]

Thanks for the words of encouragement Zoltan. I'm really enjoying the build. I'm not even halfway yet and I found myself scouting around for my next kit. I will look alot harder for the next one, after I do the planking on this one.

Edited October 17, 2016 by Hill202

[donrobinson]

I agree with Zoltan, take your time here. I rushed through this part on mine and paid for it dearly.

[Hill202]

One of the problems I was having with the fairing, is sanding the bevel without flattening the curve of the bulkhead. I took a piece of the wood that the decks are made of and stuck a piece of sandpaper on. I was able to conform it to the bulkhead and sand a bevel in the curve. 

 

The picture is a little off but it seemed to have worked. As always, larger photos are available...

Edited October 17, 2016 by Hill202

[DocBlake]

Your fairing looks great!  The planking should go on without a hitch.  A dirty little secret:  Even if your fairing isn't perfect (no one's is), some sanding and wood filler will turn that first layer of planking into a good base for the second!  Relax and enjoy your build.  You are doing great!

[Hill202]

Thanks Dave. When I was doing my research on what ship to start with, yours was one of the first AVS that I saw. I really like how you bashed the kit and upgraded the kit wood, no paint, right? It looks awesome.

 

It was a smooth move naming her after the Admiral, I'll have to remember that one.

[GuntherMT]

Hi Joe,

 

I'm behind in my build log following, so I completely missed that another AVS build had started.  It's looking good so far, and agree with what the others have said about taking your time doing the fairing, it's really important.

 

One of the things that I used that helped me a lot on those bulkheads where the plank will lay across then in a curve, was to use a sanding block that had a rubber cushion under the sandpaper, allowing the sandpaper to bend around the bulkhead and naturally create a curve.  Just use a light touch so that you aren't forcing a severe curve, and just work each bulkhead as needed.

 

As far as running out of planking, even if you do, you can get more from Model Shipways by just asking, or buy some from a hobby store, basswood is cheap.  Alternatively, if you are crazy like me, you won't use any basswood on exposed planking anyway, and you'll end up with lots extra on the bench even after using a bunch of it for things that they aren't supposed to be used for.  

 

Happy building, and I'll try to follow along as I have time!

[Hill202]

Hello Brian, it's good to have you here. Thanks for the detailed build log on this kit. I refer back to your log as much as I do the practicum. I especially like the way you put links to the different subjects. That makes for quick and easy references.