HMS Victory by Zarkon - Constructo - Scale 1:94

[Zarkon]

I have remade the hatchs as I am still waiting on my wood strips to arrive.

I think it looks a lot better than my first attempt at it.  The last hatch is drying and needs to be sanded.  Next, I will work on the knee (I think thats what it's called?). Making it from scratch  based upon what Dan posted earlier.  Not too much work done, but slowly making progress.

 

I hope the strips come in soon as I am ready to plank the middle deck.  Then I will feel like I'm finally making good progress.

 

Jeff

[Dan Vadas]

Very nice Jeff . One thing though - the gratings and their surrounds have a curve athwartships in the top. The higher up the deck is, the more the curvature. It's easy enough to sand the curve into it before fitting them to the deck, using a sanding block or stick.

 

A 20mm wide grating on the Main Deck would have about 2mm of curvature. The Forecastle and Quarterdeck Gratings would have about 3mm for a similar width one.

 

  Danny

[Zarkon]

Dan, thanks for the insight onto the curvature of the gratings. I will take that into consideration on the upper deck and above. 

 

I finally have a little to show. I got the new deck plank strips and I am VERY happy with the quality of the wood! I just hope I can do it justice with my deck planking.

 

Here is where I am so far. The width of the planks is about half of that of the kit supplied plank strips.  This is much more inline with the correct width of the planks according to the book.  They are still about 0.5mm too wide, but I don't think many people would notice at this scale.... I hope hahaha!

It sure takes a long while, but I hope the results are better.

 

I haven't been able to work on the ship as much as I would like.  Life with a 2.5 year old is never dull.  We just enrolled him in hia first soccor camp.  He just ran around the indoor facility for most of the 50 minutes, occasionally kicking the ball. Haha! I think the next session this Saturday, he will understand more of what he is suppose to do.

 

Anyway, I am going to continue hacking away at this deck. I usually can get 1 row done per day, but sometimes I'm too tired from chasing my son around to work on it, but I'm not in any rush.

 

Thanks!

Jeff

[Dan Vadas]

Looking good Jeff . Will you be "caulking" the upper decks? I'll let you know the easy way of doing it if you are. Same for treenails.

 

BTW - Lower decks weren't caulked with tar.

 

  Danny

[Zarkon]

19 hours ago, Dan Vadas said:

Will you be "caulking" the upper decks? I'll let you know the easy way of doing it if you are. Same for treenails.

Thanks Dan!

 

By caulking, do you mean rubbing the side of each plank with the artist pen?  Thats what I have been doing for these planks.  I would like to know of an easy way to tree nail.  I have read a lot of threads here about different ways to do it.  But at my scale, 1:94, I'm not sure what would be the best approach. 

 

Thanks again for the advice!

 

Jeff

[Dan Vadas]

4 minutes ago, Zarkon said:

But at my scale, 1:94, I'm not sure what would be the best approach.

Just using a sharp 2H pencil would do the trick Jeff. You may have to experiment a bit with different Pencil Hardnesses.

 

  Danny

[leginseel]

Hi Jeff, What I did with mine is use a needle to make small pin pricks to the ends of the planks which showed up beautifully when I varnished the deck without them being too much.

[Zarkon]

 

On 12/10/2017 at 9:34 PM, leginseel said:

Hi Jeff, What I did with mine is use a needle to make small pin pricks to the ends of the planks which showed up beautifully when I varnished the deck without them being too much.

Thats a good idea! I tried that out on some scrap wood with very nice results.  I will use that technique!  

 

I haven't put the tree nails in yet, but I have been making slow progress on the deck

I've been leaning along the way how to make it flat since the strips are 1.5mm thick.  I really like working with this wood! It's a lot nicer than the kit supplied wood.  It's not sanded yet so it does look a little rough.

 

Since I am getting closer to the edges of the ship, I am starting to think about making the frames that I removed.  I have the correct shapes, thanks to the book and the ply sheet that I saved that held the pre-cut frames.  The frames need to go from the middle deck to the quarterdeck.  I need to make these very precise so the hull planking will be correct.  I need some help with that because I am not sure of the best way to make it, nor what wood I should use for it.  I'm thinking ply would be fine since it won't be seen.  I don't have any power tools to help create them.  This is all the tools I have right now:

I might (?) need some other tools to help make those frames but not sure what would be best.  Also, I think I will need some tools to help make the athwarthship carlings, knees, shaped half beams, etc. Any advice would be great as to what tools really help make these custom pieces that I will add to the upper deck.  Like I said before, I'm not going to plank the upper deck so you can see into the middle deck.

 

I'm thinking of using swiss pearl for the beams, carlings, knees, etc.  I've seen that wood used on other projects here and it looks like it might contrast well with the costello boxwood I am using for the deck planks.

 

Jeff

 

[Zarkon]

Hmm it didn't seem to remove that last pic when I edited the post.

 

Oh well!

 

Forgot to ask you guy's opinion about hull planking.

 

I noticed that the supplied wood is about double the width of the actual hull planks shown in the book. My question is, should I use the supplied wood, or get new hull planks that more accuratly replicate the plank size?  I know it would be more work, but what would look better for the end result? It's not a matter of time, I just want it to look nice.

 

Especially since I am using deck planks that much more closely match the actual width, would it look strange to use wider planks on the hull with the thinner deck planks? I do not intend on painting the hull since I really like the natural wood look.  If I do decide to get new hull strips, what type of wood would work well?

 

Thanks a LOT for the help!

 

Jeff

[Dan Vadas]

3 hours ago, Zarkon said:

I might (?) need some other tools to help make those frames but not sure what would be best.

Jeff, the first power tool I bought over 40 years ago was a Scroll Saw. My 2nd wooden ship model was a Billings "Norske Lowe" which had ply frames that weren't even die-cut let alone laser cut (long before lasers were commonly used). That old Dremel saw still works, despite making about 1,000,000 inches of cuts (a guess ).

 

As it looks like you will be starting a fair bit of Scratchbuilding I'd strongly suggest you look for one. It's a lot more versatile than a Band Saw or Table Saw, and a hell of a lot easier than cutting ply with a fret saw. You don't need one with all the "bells and whistles", a cheap but reasonably good quality one will be adequate. It shouldn't set you back more than a couple of hundred at most.

 

THIS ONE is typical of what I'm talking about. It's in Australia, but you get the idea.

 

  Danny

[Zarkon]

12 hours ago, Dan Vadas said:

As it looks like you will be starting a fair bit of Scratchbuilding I'd strongly suggest you look for one. It's a lot more versatile than a Band Saw or Table Saw, and a hell of a lot easier than cutting ply with a fret saw.

Thanks Dan!

 

A scroll saw looks to be exactly what I will need! Just did some prive checking and the hardware stores around me sell them from $81 - $150 dollars. Thats not bad at all!  I will have to ask my wife though,  before picking one up!

 

Jeff

[Dan Vadas]

Jeff, check that blades for whichever saw you decide on are readily available. It shouldn't be a problem unless you buy some obscure brand that only supply their own blades.

 

Prices sound good .

 

  Danny

[leginseel]

Hi Jeff, as a first time builder the best tool I've invested in is a Dremel with various bits and pieces together with a drill stand so I can drill accurate vertical holes.

 

 

[Zarkon]

So finally my scroll saw came on Friday!  I was excited to try it out, so I used it to make the piecses of the cutwater. I think thats what its called. After watching a few YouTube videos, went went off to work!

I think I will remake 1 or 2 pieces,  but overall I think it went pretty well! I used the book plans for this and it actually fits much better on the hull than the prefab kit part did. I also got  a dremal and the drill press attachment thing and used it as a sander to help dand the curves of the pieces.

 

While I was waiting for the saw, I also put some nails into the middle deck planks to try it out.

 

I now need to finish the cutwater and cut out the parts of the frames I removed ealier.

 

Thanks!

 

Jeff

[Dan Vadas]

3 hours ago, Zarkon said:

I used it to make the piecses of the cutwater. I think thats what its called

Ironically Jeff, the Cutwater is the only part of the whole assembly - correctly termed the "Knee of the Head" - that you HAVEN'T made . It's an extra narrow piece that fits in about the middle of the knee at water level (drawn in blue in the pic), and could be easily replaced if damaged.

 

I find it useful to know the correct terminology for the parts of a ship, as it makes communicating with other builders a lot easier if you can refer to a part by it's real name (saves confusion, both in the modelling world AND on the real ship ). So for future reference the various parts of the Knee are : 

1. Standard

2. Gammoning Piece

3. Chock

4. Bobstay Piece

5. Lacing Piece

6. Gripe

7. section of the Keel, not actually part of the Knee

 

Not a bad job for your first attempt at scroll sawing, you'll get a lot better with more practice (I'm STILL learning ). A tip when making a complex part like this - cut, sand and fit ONE part at a time before cutting the next. This way you can use the already made parts as a template to mark the next pieces at the joins between them.

 

Your deck nailing has come up really well - not overdone, but still visible .

 

  Danny

[Zarkon]

Thanks for the explanation Dan! I will be sure to use the correct terminology from now on.

 

Luckily for me, I had today off so I was able to complete the deck nailing on the planks already placed.

 

I think it turned out better than I thought!  I tried to use a pen and a pencil, but I kept adding small lines whenever I tried to pick it up of the decking.  Instead, I drilled 1064 holes. I then filled them up with cherry wood filler and sanded it smooth.

 

I also started to make the frames I removed.

Using thr scroll saw, I made these.

 

I made the other side too but not sized yet. I haven't glued them in because i want to finish sanding/shaping them,  and it will make it easier to add the last of the deckk planks.

[Zarkon]

It sure has been a while since I have posted.  Things have been crazy around here!  I finally finished planking the middle deck!!! 

 

It took a long while to do, but its done! The last part is to varnish it.  It is definetly not perfect,  but I have learned a lot so the next deck I plank will be a lot better.

 

 I hope I can continue at a little faster pace. I get about 30 min per day to work on it. Usually I am too tired so I don't get to work on it as much as I want. 

 

Happy holidays and new years!

 

Jeff

[Zarkon]

I finally feel like I have made some progress!  I am close to getting back to before the falling disaster. But this time making the middle deck instead.  I have put on the hatches as well as started to make the shot garlands. According to the book, there should be nine cannon balls held on the shot garlands I have made.  But the wood supplied in the kit kept chipping off because of how close each cannon ball is to the next.  So instead,  I put seven instead of nine and that fixed the problem. ( And no,  not meaning to make that a Star trek reference!)   The companionways are all painted black because I am not making the lower deck nor cutting out holes to look deeper into the ship. 

 

 Thanks!!

 

Jeff

Edited January 3, 2018 by Zarkon
Added content

[AntonyUK]

Hi Jeff.

That's a lot of treenails.

Nice to see the correct patterns on your deck. The treenails are not to prominent. You have then as they should be.

On 20/09/2017 at 3:20 AM, Dan Vadas said:

Very nice Jeff . One thing though - the gratings and their surrounds have a curve athwartships in the top. The higher up the deck is, the more the curvature. It's easy enough to sand the curve into it before fitting them to the deck, using a sanding block or stick.

As Dan pointed out. It's worth doing and they are a focus of people when they are looking at the deck.

A truly excellent build.

 

Regards Antony.

 

 

[Zarkon]

7 hours ago, AntonyUK said:

As Dan pointed out. It's worth doing and they are a focus of people when they are looking at the deck.

A truly excellent build.

Antony,  thank you and everyone for the likes!

 

As for making the gratings curved, I plan on doing just that as both you and Dan have pointed out.  I will be progressively curving them based on the book plans.

 

Thanks!!

 

Jeff

[Dan Vadas]

34 minutes ago, Zarkon said:

As for making the gratings curved, I plan on doing just that as both you and Dan have pointed out.  I will be progressively curving them based on the book plans.

Jeff, they are a lot easier to sand before they are fitted to the deck.

 

  Danny

[Zarkon]

On 1/3/2018 at 5:57 PM, Dan Vadas said:

Jeff, they are a lot easier to sand before they are fitted to the deck.

Thanks for the advice Dan! I will be doing just that on the next deck.

 

I feel that I am finally back to where I was before the accident! I finished putting on the shot garlands!

 

 

Compairing it to what I had before, I think this is much better.  What I didn't realize was that the space between the shot garlands were actually roughly in the middle of where the corresponding gun would go.  I already had marked where the guns should be on the model and figured out that I had marked out everything correctly! That was a huge relief and 0 work had to be redone.  That means the gun placement as well as the hatch placements are correct.

 

Next, I am thinking of varnishing the deck,  then  remaking the bulkhead sides I removed and gluing them in place.  I am not that happy with the ones I already made and think I can make them better.

 

Thanks!

Jeff 

[Zarkon]

About varnishing,  I have noticed that some varnish leaves a yellowish hew on what I am varnishing. I don't  like that too much.  What varnish would you guys recommend?

 

Jeff

[leginseel]

Beautiful work Jeff and it's good that you have a sense of achievement getting everything sorted out. As for varnish I have been using Sanding Sealer as it protects and has a light finish on the wood. On painted areas I've used Vajello acrilic varnish using my spray gun with very light coats. 

Keep up the great work. 

 

[JohnReid]

I use clear matte lacquer spray or brush as there is no change in wood color and dries very quickly.I have used it on my woodcarving too for decades with no change in color.Cheers! John. 

[Zarkon]

On 1/10/2018 at 8:09 AM, JohnReid said:

I use clear matte lacquer spray or brush as there is no change in wood color and dries very quickly.

That is a good idea!  I will have to try that next time. Thanks for thr advice John!

 

I had already purchased the sanding sealer and this is the outcome:

I like it a lot better than the varnish as its really clear and brings out the wood really well! The nails are more pronounced but not too overwhelming.   I need to dust off the black pained  haha!

 

I am happy with the result. I will get better at applying it the more I use it.

 

Jeff

[leginseel]

Beautiful work Jeff, you should be justly proud of it.  Happy New Year to you and yours.  I've just returned to my boatyard so looking forward to getting back to it.

 

[Zarkon]

Thank you everyone for all your likes!

 

I finally finished cutting out the tops of the frames and glued them on the ship. 

 

That took a while and a few attempts using the scroll saw.

 

I am currently working on the walls and doors that I will be placing on the deck.

This is the first section and door. I know that the position of this wall and the doors aren't correct compaired to the real ship, but I'm good with that. I wanted to keep the frames from view.  I hope to be able to build more of the doors and walls soon.

 

Jeff 

 

[Zarkon]

I finally finished one of the walls on the middle deck! Whew! I also made some small doors too. I know that this wall is not actuate,  nor is it in the right place.  But I'm not making the full middle deck and I just needed something to cover up the bare frames.  I am currently working on the other wall for the other side of the ship. I positioned the doors so they are slightly open. 

 

 

Thanks!

 

 

Jeff 

[Zarkon]

I finished the other wall! I didn't realize that it would take 139 pieces to make...

 

Not sure what to make next.  Should I build the inside walls first of the middle deck? So I can make the gun ports on the inside first? Or complete all the measurements and plank the hull next? Or plank the front part of the ship where the bowsprit sits on the deck?

 

 I can't follow the instructions for the  next step because it wants me to make the upper deck and then plank the quarter deck.  I can't do that until the middle deck is fully finished with guns and things.  I will be not planking the upper deck so you can look down into the middle deck.

 

Here is what it fully looks like right now. 

 

Any advice would be great!

 

Jeff