Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16

[Mike Dowling]

Thanks LR. I know I am just being really thick ! I love the paper analogy and can visualize that quite easily in my thick head. That however is two dimensional and what I can't quite see is how to make that with the wood in three dimensions ! I will sleep on it and maybe, just maybe it will come to me in one of those flashes !!!

 

Anyway, great to have you along for the ride. I was beginning to think no one was interested after John's brilliant build. So, where in the Highlands one wonders being another Highland dweller ?

[Landrotten Highlander]

Nae worries aboot being thick, you should meet some of my previous managers . Two, short, fat planks springs to mind when I think of them.

 

Not quit Highlands at the mo (more south of Glaschu), but Highlander in heart anyway.

 

If the paper analogy helps, glue two pieces of paper together, the bottom mor in a tube, the top almost flat.  Give the top a hollowed out shape, then twist the tip while holding the bottom in position.  Should be close enough to help you see it.

 

Slainte

L.H.

Edited October 22, 2017 by Landrotten Highlander

[xken]

Mike, I was away all day. Sorry for the confusion there are two props being shown in the link. The one being step by step shown is for a Fokker D VII. The last bottom two are for the Sopwith one shows the front, side and rear views with the laminated layers per the real prop taken from period plans for the Sopwith Camel. The picture next to it shows the prop installed. I used cherry, basswood and black walnut for visual enhancement per client request. Others above are doing a good job of verbally describing the carving process; study the pattern of the laminations and that may also help. The laminations are also a great aid in carving providing a color pattern to follow and duplicate. 

[Mike Dowling]

Thanks Ken. Checked your pictures again and it still looks to me as though I have started sanding the wrong side

[cog]

Right you are Mike. The high side should be on the left when you are in front of it (when the prop is in the top of it's circle). Or you have to make it spin counter clockwise as alternative ...

[jablackwell]

Mike, The good folks at Model Airways will send you a new set of prop parts for you if you want.

~j

 

[Mike Dowling]

Carl, it is indeed supposed to spin counter clockwise which I think is weird for a start.

 

John, have you changed your mind and think I have done it wrong so far or are you suggesting an insurance policy in case ?

[jablackwell]

Yep - I have a hard time seeing which way you carved on your prop. What Carl said is absolutely correct. So.... if you did go backwards with the angle, you can always try again.

~j

[Mike Dowling]

John, I know I am getting boring but, I looked back at you log and the second picture of your prop build held over the plan looks exactly the same as mine. Your third photo looks almost finished. What I simply can't figure out is what you did after the second picture but before the third.

[jablackwell]

Hi Mike - I did a lot of sanding, that is really all. I started with a Dremel and got more cautious and moved to rough then fine paper.  The rounded leading edge of the prop is upper most when the prop is laid onto a tabletop.  SO.... just a lot of thinning out of the blade.

~j

[cog]

Darn, I mixed up rotational direction, clockwise would push it backwards (like I am presently )

[Mike Dowling]

Well folks, just to show you that I have not been idle, the top wing is at a 'stage' waiting, according to the destructions to be varnished.

 

This leads to a question John, how did you get all the metal bits that have yet to go on to stick after you had varnished yours ? I know that CA and varnish don't go well together.

 

After all the help, advice etc and now,  because I don't mind showing my efforts warts and all, here is something that could be a propeller. I don't say it is but it looks a bit like one and I think it's the best I can do without starting all over again. One edge is rounded and the other really sharp but it doesn't show very well on the photo. I reckon it might look OK when it goes on ! Maybe!

[jablackwell]

Moving right along, Mike.  So, I used a neutral flat varnish, actually a flat polyurethane for all the wood except the prop and the wing braces where I used a stain/poly blend.   CA seems to attach itself nicely to the flat poly without any issues. I do recall having to file away some of the finish for one part, but that was about it.  When using CA, I was using a gel type that doesn't flow well. 

~j

[cog]

I'm working, a.o. on a 1:350 Dutch sub, and some PE got loose - a wee bit clumsy handling - I had sprayed the cigar, and could still use CA to attach  the "ripped off" part. I use CA from BSI INSTA-CURE (thin) and INSTA-CURE+ (medium/gap filling). So far I can't complain, but for the fact that it is somewhat hard to get here in the Netherlands, I have to get it from the UK

 

P.s. what I suspect is that paint which hasn't cured, or doesn't bond well to the surface to which it is applied, will cause the glued part to fall off, something likeglueing on a dirty surface ...

Edited October 25, 2017 by cog

[Mike Dowling]

Great ! So no one likes my propeller huh !! Good thing I ordered a pre-made one then !

[Mike Dowling]

The thing is John, Carl, I remember having problems especially with boats before - getting CA to stick on a varnished surface. Anyway, I have been bold and ordered some spray on satin poly varnish for the wings etc. Got to be easier than trying to paint all those bits !

[Spaceman Spiff]

On ‎10‎/‎19‎/‎2017 at 2:10 PM, jablackwell said:

 

 

 

Great job! I thought about this kit, too. However, that engine and all the other white-metal pieces looks almost toy-like and having no life. Even if you are going for an unpainted look, every metal used wasn't the same exact color all the way through - the gun metal most certainly wasn't the same as used in engine as used in cowlings, etc. Paint/wash/drybrush/etc to bring things to life. I mean, why paint the engine mount (looks to be almost a WWII era interior green color - was that how the originals were painted or just something different?) and not the guns, engine, struts, etc.? Would really bring things to life and make it look like a real plane but without its skin. Great job on all accounts! I love it and don't mean to sound harsh...

Edited October 26, 2017 by Spaceman Spiff

[jablackwell]

4 hours ago, Mike Dowling said:

The thing is John, Carl, I remember having problems especially with boats before - getting CA to stick on a varnished surface. Anyway, I have been bold and ordered some spray on satin poly varnish for the wings etc. Got to be easier than trying to paint all those bits !

Mike: The great thing is that you can always slightly file or sand away the varnish where you need to glue.  It works. You can also just spray the whole thing over when you are done....  that is one of the reasons I used a matte flat finish varnish.

 

Spaceman Spiff (love the name btw):  Yep _ I completely understand your commentary. The scale is not exactly the best to do accurate colors in any way. The green is the actual zinc chromate color that has been found on some example WW1 and (definitely) WWII aircraft parts. I have omitted the firewall, which would hide the interior from view altogether. There is a lot of artistic work to bring out detail rather than to show accuracy. Anyway, all this is noted in my posts for my build (not here on Mike's build log).  Trying not to hijack his log here ;-)

 

Best,

~john

 

 

 

[Mike Dowling]

Another question for you John ! When you did the wing bracing wires, did you do the continuous run method described in the instructions or did you do the 'separate' method ? 

[jablackwell]

Hi Mike,

I took the easy way out for the wing bracing wires and did the continuous run. I tightened each length and used a tiny drop of CA on a toothpick to keep their tension. This is not always recommended, as CA gets brittle with age and can cause the threads to snap. You could do the continuous run without glue, then just add a bit of thinned wood glue to the last knot.  Visibility into the wing framing is such that this style of running the "wire" will be barley noticed.  For the fuselage, I tied individual knots. The wiring is much more openly visible there. 

~john

 

[Mike Dowling]

Thanks for that John. I am thinking of using very fine wire instead if thread. That would be easier with the 'continuous' method. What fun drilling all those holes in the compression bars !! And I thought the cappings were difficult !

[JohnReid]

Hi Mike! I used flexible beading wire for my rigging.It is nylon coated stainless steel .018 diameter by Beadalon..Part # JW03T-0.Cheers! John.

[Mike Dowling]

John B, when you did your model and used the silver coloured thread, was there plenty for the build or was it tight ? It doesn't look like they have been over generous to me, in fact they don't seem to have been over generous with anything ! I think with hindsight trying to use wire may not be such a good idea.

[Mike Dowling]

Oh dear ! A whole update I put in seems to have vanished so I will do it again. Oops, I may have put it in John B's log by accident ! Sorry John.

 

Anyway I have finished both wings up to the varnishing stage and am awaiting the order for my spray varnish.

 

So, meanwhile I have drilled all the tiny holes required in the compression bars and wired in turnbuckles in advance of fitting them where required. I figured it would be easier to put them on first. Any way I have shown a few (not all !) for your interest.

 

I have also started the empennage (!) although what is wrong with tailplane and elevator ? The brittania metal castings were far too small and a lot of adjustment of the ribs, rib caps etc was needed to get them in

[jablackwell]

1 hour ago, Mike Dowling said:

John B, when you did your model and used the silver coloured thread, was there plenty for the build or was it tight ? It doesn't look like they have been over generous to me, in fact they don't seem to have been over generous with anything ! I think with hindsight trying to use wire may not be such a good idea.

I had maybe a meter left. It is tight, especially if you tie individual knots for each turnbuckle.

~john

 

[Mike Dowling]

I have raided the bosses sewing box and swiped some grey thread !! It will do just fine !

[Spaceman Spiff]

On ‎10‎/‎26‎/‎2017 at 6:30 PM, jablackwell said:

The scale is not exactly the best to do accurate colors in any way.

 

 

 

 

Why? Are you entering it for awards? Make that thing pop!

[Mike Dowling]

John B, I have a teensy little problem and I wonder of you had it ! My plans sheets 3 and 5 for the wings do not match up at all ! I have double and even triple checked my wings against plan 3 and they are perfect, but plan 5 which has the compression bars and rigging do not match. Do you think it matters ? I guess I just have to bite the bullet and press on and hope it all works out in the end.

[xken]

These may be of some help to sort out details if needed. I used these to build my camel. Braces are where the turnbuckles are attached.

 

 

 

 

[jablackwell]

1 hour ago, Mike Dowling said:

John B, I have a teensy little problem and I wonder of you had it ! My plans sheets 3 and 5 for the wings do not match up at all ! I have double and even triple checked my wings against plan 3 and they are perfect, but plan 5 which has the compression bars and rigging do not match. Do you think it matters ? I guess I just have to bite the bullet and press on and hope it all works out in the end.

My plans matched. Press on!  It'll be fine as long as you are symmetric about the installations. Also, Ken posted some guidance above.

~john