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18th Century Long Boat by roach101761 - Model Shipways - A guide for the Beginner

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FAIRING THE LONG BOAT HULL---CONT.

 

7.     I next moved to my files.   I have several sets of files and in this build I have been choosing between them to accomplish certain tasks to see which works best.   They are my 4 inch mini set, 5 1/2 inch set, and 7 inch set.  For fairing the hull the 5 1/2 inch set was best suited for the job, as it has been from the beginning of the build.  I maintain that you can build this model with only that one file set.   The mini files are two narrow for the job and the 7 inch set is just too much muscle for the job.  The 5 1/2 inch set is just right for the job being an easy length and width to work with.    These files are small enough that the flat file is flexible.  It was not as much use here.  The half round file and barrette file were the most useful, followed by the square and three sided file.  However, the job can be accomplished with only the half round file pictured above.  It did at least 95% of the job for me.
 
This file takes the place of the truing block or sand paper covered block described above in the reproduced literature.  In some parts of the hull(the bottom) it covers 4 frames well, and in other places it spans 3 frames well.    
 
A word on files.  I understand that the the file sets marketed to us from the normal model sites are a #2 or medium cut.   I have been upgrading my files lately and have learned a thing or two about them.  I have compared my new files to my previously purchased sets and have determined that they all appear to be the #2 or medium cut.   This cut has worked well on my model during the fairing process. 
 
Here are some photos of my process with the files.
 
Working on two bulkheads.IMG_1496.thumb.JPG.1df1016cd569fd2e72125a19183fb7f0.JPG
Working on three bulkheads.
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The file spanning four frames on the bottom of the boat. 
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8.    Your are not in a hurry.   There is no need to get this job done in one sitting, or one day, or before dinner or any self imposed dead line.  If you set a dead line it may cause you to be over aggressive in removing the material from the hull and will cause errors.  For this open boat you really wish to avoid using shims to put material back on the hull.  They may or may not show on the inside of the boat depending where they are placed.   Set the boat aside after you make some progress.  You may be surprised what you see the next day when up pick it up again. 

 

 

 

 

 

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Fairing is coming along nicely. Did a bit of shimming myself like some other builders. It doesn’t show on the finished model, but one must be careful to do it neatly. 

Steve

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FARING THE HULL--CONT.

 

9.     The planking material used as a planking batten is not flexible enough on this small model.   You will get about 90% done and you will begin to notice that no matter how tight you pull it between your thumbs and fingers it will not lie on all the bulkheads.  You will get exasperated if you do not realize why this happening you will curse and swear that you previously had that part of the hull fair.  It will begin to show gaps between the batten and the bulkheads as illustrated in the diagrams posted from the literature.  This is especially true in the bow area within the first 5 bulkheads.   The problem is that the Batten Bows out from the fair line of the hull when you put pressure on one end to wrap around the bow.   The other reason for the issue is because the plank must curve inward and twist at the bow to take on the shape of the bow to lay flat.
 
This is why in the planking guide posted above, the planking batten is pinned to the hull. I believe this model to be too small and the frames/bulkheads to fragile to pin the batten in place.  The planking batten will also attempt to deceive you as to which bulkheads are low and which ones are high.  The one in the middle may not be low (in my model this was rarely the case) but either one on each side may be high.  Most likely the one closer to the bow going forward from the center line and the one closer to the stern moving aft from the center line.
 
Here is a photo showing the Bowing Problem.
 
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Checking fairness over shorter distances.  To check the fairing of the bulkhead where the batten bows out, hold the batten at shorter distances, not from end to end of the boat but from 3 to four frames.    In the shorter space the batten will lie down so you can see that the fair line of the hull is continued between these fewer frames.
 
     Here are a series of four photos taken from the bow to stern showing the planking batten used over shorter distances.
 
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The frame above with the gap has been my pesky little problem on this hull.  On the lower portions of the frame there is no gap. The two frames forward required the work. 
 
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HERE ARE A FEW TIPS FOR FAIRING THE LONGBOAT.
 
        a.   Which bulkhead are you working on?     The number of bulkheads/frames in this little model are 16 in a six inch space.  Always know and fix in your mind which bulkhead you are working on while you fair it.   As you work from port to starboard and sheer to keel you will rotate and re-orient the model several times in just a couple of minutes.  Because the bulkheads/frames are so close together it is very easy to loose the one you are working on.  Mark them to keep track, and before you register the file on the work surface make sure its the bulkhead you mean to alter.  If you do not, you will remove material from the the bulkhead ahead of or behind the one you meant too, causing you to have make further corrections to rectify your error, thus removing more wood than should have been required.
 
        b.    Do not file or sand a bulkhead for more than ten seconds and count your strokes.
 
        c.    The same bulkhead may be fair in one location and not fair in another.  Work spots, not whole frames. 
 
        d.    For final prep of the bulkhead try a circular motion of the file.  I found this very helpful, especially when I was working a pesky spot on one frame.
 
        e.    The relatively easy portion of the hull to fair is the bottom from the turn of the bulkhead to the keel and from the joint of the keel and stem aft to the last bulkhead.
 
        f.    The more difficult portion of the hull to fair is from the top down to the turn of the bulkhead and forward from the keel/stem joint to the bow, and the transom.  The bow area because of the sharp angle of the bevels and the transom because of it's lightness and precarious position on the hull. Tread lightly on the transom or you will be punished. 
 
        g.     Remember that the hull must remain symmetrical.   If you are really working one side to make it fair, make sure the other side matches your efforts.  This can happen if you lost the orientation of the model when working one side. (i.e. you blinked and worked the wrong frame).  You have to make the same type of corrections on both sides of the model or it will not remain symmetrical.
 
Next:  I will post my result with fairing the long boat hull.
 

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Why do you advise that the hull must remain perfectly symmetrical? Is this for aesthetics, or is there a structural argument? This would seem difficult to achieve in practice unless one made templates of every half-frame to check back and forth.

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FAIRING THE LONG BOAT HULL--MY RESULT--  CONCLUSION
 
Because the planking batten lacked the flexibility to lie down on the frames from bow to stern to check the fairness of the entire hull, near the end of my efforts I substituted a thin strip of black paper to check for humps and dips. 
 
Here are a series of photos to show this.  A lot of photos, because its a show me kind of thing.
 
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MY RESULTS WITH FAIRING HE LONG BOAT--CONCLUSION.

 

I ran into some unexplained technical difficulties above with posting a lot of photos and could not complete my task above. So here it is continued.

 

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As I said above, trying to describe the process of fairing a hull is difficult and I think it much more of a show me kind of thing.  Therefore, here are some photo's of my hull after the fairing process.  Please compare them with the bulkheads that are not fair posted above.
 

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IMG_1529.JPG

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Steve;

 

TRANSOM TROUBLE

 

 

So you noticed the transom was gone.   It has been a here today gone tomorrow nightmare.    Well, I was holding the model and adding the final touches to fairing it and I dropped it about 6 inches onto my work surface. The hull hit the table on the top edge of the transom and it popped right off. There was no damage to the model or the transom, except that the transom was no longer attached.  I spent a lot of time filing it to  fair it to the hull.  During that process I had no issues.  After I braced it, it did not move.  Here is the plan to re-attach it. 

 

     1.  I love White Glue.  Both the stern and transom will clean up nicely.

 

     2.  I have ordered a replacement transom from Model Expo.  They will replace any part.

 

     3.  When I receive it I will compare it to the transom that I made fair with the hull to see how much I really altered the shape of the part.

 

     4.  I will follow the instructions in the kit.  Those instructions advise to fair the hull and then attach the transom and then fair the transom to the hull.  Previously I attached the transom about half way through the fairing process because I was concerned about matching the bevels to the last 2 bulkheads and thought it would be easier to fair.  I love second chances.  White Glue and Model Expo make it possible.

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Model Expo is good about the replacement parts. I think you should use this opportunity to teach how to scratch a new transom using the laser cut sheets as a template. A new one can be easily crafted by using the hobby knife to make the rough cut and sand paper and files to get the precise shape. 

Steve

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SYMMETRICAL HULL

 

Eric;

 

Thanks for your interest.  Two of the bulkheads gave me more trouble that the other 14.  The first bulkhead in the bow (H) and the fifth bulkhead from the bow (D).  D is the one I described as pesky.   Bulkhead H was a little more difficult for me because of the extreme angle of the bevel necessary to for the planking material to curve gently into the rabbet at the stem. As a result, I may have been too aggressive from time to time.  During the fairing process the port and starboard of bulkhead H took on different profiles from time to time.   They must have the same profile or both sides of the boat will not match or will not be symmetrical.   It was therefore necessary to insure that bulkhead H was the same on each side.  If I was heavy handed on one side, I had to show the same heavy hand on the other. I did it all by eye and with the planking batten. 

 

Pesky bulkhead D caused other issues.   I could not get one side fair without what I though was much more effort than I expended on the other side of the boat.  I had a similar problem with one of the bulkheads in the stern section, but not as pronounced.  The other issue with this bulkhead is that I was only having problems with top of the bulkhead.   Everything was fine for 80% of its surface.  I went looking for reasons for my trouble here.  I came up with a few possibilities.

 

Perhaps:

 

1.     The bulkhead was not seated properly on the keel and may have been high on one side and low on the other. 

 

2.     The bulkhead was not seated properly on the keel in that it was seated a hair too high.  This however would not explain why I had the most trouble on one side. 

 

3.    I placed the bulkheads in the wrong order on the keel.   I quickly eliminated this as the issue because I did not make this mistake.

 

4.    The bulkhead was mislabeled in the kit.  Remember, the numbers and letters are laser burned into the bulkhead, except in my kit bulkhead F was blank and I had to label it myself.  Is this even a possibility?  Maybe. Most of the adjacent bulkheads are really close in size to one another.  Could this error occur at the plant when they do a new run of the model?  I do not know. What I did not do was compare each bulkhead to the printed plans.   I took it on faith that the bulkheads were labeled correctly.  I should not have done this.  I should have checked. Especially because one of my bulkheads was not labeled.    I think I will add an edit above to tell my readers to take this step.  In days of old (before laser cutting) when bulkheads were stamped from a ply sheet, bulkheads had issues of not being symmetrical and in some kits made from old stamps or worn out stamps, it was necessary to correct them.

 

5.    Anyway, I devoted a lot of time to pesky bulkhead D and those two forward from it to obtain the fair line in the top 20% of the bulkhead.  My efforts had to

match on each side to keep the hull symmetrical to keep the lines of the hull.

 

6.     In the end I decided that perhaps I was too aggressive in removing the char from this bulkhead on one side, causing my issues later. 

 

The boat must be symmetrical.  I will not measure mine, nor will I make templates from the plans to do so.  It looks good now. 

 

 

 

 

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Making a New Transom from Scratch?

 

Steve, thanks but no thanks.  I did think about it though.  However, I fell victim to the profit making goals of Model Expo this week and placed an order.  While I was there I requested the replacement part.   Also it will be a trial of the printed instructions to fair the hull and then attach and fair the transom to the hull.

 

Also I obliterated any chance of making a pattern for any of the other bulkheads because I cut up the scrap to block up the model and constructing the building board.   However, as you are between models please fell free to add the lesson here. 

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ATTACHING THE TRANSOM
 
WHITE GLUE AND MODEL EXPO = SECOND CHANCES AND A DO OVER
 
My replacement transom came from Model Expo.  Now I get to reattach the transom and pursuant to the instructions fair it to the hull after the rest of the hull has been been made fair.
 
The first thing I did was compare the the old part to the new one.   Here are two photos to show the new and old.   I did not alter the part as much as I thought, but more than I liked on one side. 
 
 
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Next I had to determine how the transom would be clamped in place while the white glue set up and dried.   The regular close pin would not work because it was too big.   Both too thick and to long on the inside portion of the hull.  Rather than look for another clamp, I decided to modify a close pin.  Fortunately, on the outside portion of the hull the close pin was the right size to clamp the transom in place.   I decided that I would not block up the space between the bulkhead and the transom because of the angles involved.  
 
I tried the the small close pin as well.  The modification of the close pin was done with my Zona saw and my sanding block.   First I cut off the end of one side with the saw.  Next I sanded down the one side so it would fit the space between the transom and the next bulkhead.    I modified a regular size pin and and smaller one.  The regular  size turned out to be the best option.  The entire operation took about three minutes.   The close pin sanded to shape very easily.
 
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Next I coated the end of the false keel where the transom is mated to the false keel with alcohol to remove any remaining white glue.   I rubbed it off with my fingers and then filed it down smooth and flat. 
 
 
Next you have to find the center of the transom.  Measure carefully.   It is an odd and not square shape. Finding the middle is difficult.    I located the middle at the top and bottom and drew a line with my sharp pencil.   When I measured I obviously missed the mark for the two middle dots.
 
 
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You must line up the middle of the transom with the middle of the false keel.  That will be the last photo.  I will not remove the clamp till the next day to insure that the part has set. 
 
Here are two photos showing the transom clamped to the hull to dry. 
 
 
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CENTER LINE ON BRACED TRANSOM

 

As promised above here are a few pictures of the center line I placed on the transom and photos of the braced transom prior to fairing it to the hull.  Just so all of you know, one of my personal short comings is that I have a terrible time finding the center of anything.  I may have slightly missed. However, I believe the transom is centered and my line is a midge off.

 

Here is the center line and the braced transom from above.

 

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Here is the braced transom from below.

 

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Here is the braced transom from the starboard side.

 

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The brace pieces are more scrap from the kit.  I cut grooves in them to have them saddle or fit over the transom.  I did this with an xacto #11 and my files.  I sanded down the part that rests on the bulkhead to match the angle to provide a good bond for the white glue.

 

White glue rules.  The bottle says to let it set overnight for maximum strength.  I have put the transom on three times now.  I glued up and clamped the transom.  I let it sit overnight.  Actually 24 hours because I came back to it after work the next day.  I then made the braces and glued them on and left it over night.  Actually, more than 24 hours because home life and work life did not allow any modeling.    None the less, I let the glue set up pursuant to the instructions on the bottle.    I will let you know how it turns out when I fair the transom to the hull.

 

 

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FAIRING THE TRANSOM TO THE HULL
 
It was a few days before I could return to the model to fair the transom.  The white glue had days to set up.   The transom was very rigid as glued and braced.  It showed very little movement as I filed it down with my  Swiss half round 5 1/2 inch needle file.  This was the only tool I used for fairing the transom.  It worked very well and the work went surprisingly fast.  It only took me about 35 minutes to get the desired result.  The more I use this file the more I appreciate the advice given by Jim above.  He says you can complete the model with this one high quality file and recommended buying one file rather than a set of lesser quality files.  Here is the picture of my file, followed by the photos of the transom. 
 

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On ‎7‎/‎22‎/‎2018 at 10:43 PM, roach101761 said:

The transom was very rigid as glued and braced.  It showed very little movement as I filed it down with my  Swiss half round 5 1/2 inch needle file.

Jim,

Yes you can, and it wouldn't hurt, but its not necessary.  Due to the small scale of the boat the dowel would be a small treenail smaller than 1/32".  As John stated above, the transom was sturdy it was once it had been glued with supporting sticks at the top.  If you are gentle with your file when fairing its not an issue.  I think we are being a bit excessive for a very simple operation. 

 

But every modeler can use methods that he is comfortable with.  If a modeler wishes to "pin" the transom then by all means do so.

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BENDING  PLANKS
 
It is time to move on toward planking this model.   To begin this process it is necessary to install the sheer planks as instructed in the manual.  There will be two planks installed on the Port side and two installed on the Starboard side.  In a larger subject these planks would be the wales.   These are the planking strakes that bind the hull together to solidify the hull shape.  The instruction manual describes two very good techniques for bending the planks.  First, to bend the planks to take the shape of the bow, and second, to to edge bend the planks to take the shape of the hull around a compound curve in the stem.  You edge bend the plank in a downward direction.  It seems counter intuitive, but it is correct.
 
Bending planks to the proper shape is a SHORT CUT developed for building a model ship or boat.  IT IS NOT SPILING.  Spiliing is a much more difficult process to plank a boat or ship model and the most correct method.  Let me define spiling and show you an example or two so you will understand that Spiling is not for the beginner.
 
Jim Roberts defines spiling as follows:
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Further Jim Roberts defines the basic concept of planking a hull as follows.  This example also shows a few drawings demonstrating the problem of what the shape of the planks should be, although exaggerated.
 
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The best example that I have ever run across to demonstrate the issue is the Artesania Latina kit and plans for the Morgan Whale boat.    It is a double planked kit of a whale boat.  However, the first layer of planks are actually spiled planks to cover the frames and form the basic shape of the hull. The model actually provides the cut planks spiled to fit the shape of the hull.   Here is a portion of the plans showing actual shape of the planks.
 
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Here is the profile of the hull showing the run and installation of the spiled planks. 
 

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In the boat yard or ship yard these planks would actually be cut from larger material to fill the space needed. After they were cut, they would be put in the steam box in order to bend them to the shape of the hull, and when installed they would take the compound shape the hull and be fixed in place.
 
In the next installment I will show and describe the method I used to bend planks for the sheer strakes of the boat.  As hint, I suggest you start looking at your frying pans.  Especially those that slope from the top edge to the bottom of the pan just like the curves of a boat.

 

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On 5/6/2018 at 8:25 AM, roach101761 said:

SOME BASIC GUIDELINES AS YOU BEGIN TO WORK THE MODEL.

 

1.     All of the bulkheads should have their letter or number burned into them.  In my kit, bulkhead "E" was not labeled.   If any of your bulkheads are not labeled, you should label them BEFORE you remove them from the sheet.   See the photo above where I have penciled bulkhead E with its letter.

 

2.     As you work the bulkheads and false keel you should ALWAYS maintain the same orientation of each bulkhead to the false keel.  ALL THE LETTERS AND NUMBERS SHOULD ALWAYS FACE THE BOW/STEM/FORWARD/FRONT/FORE/THE POINTY END of the boat. This will result in each bulkhead having a fixed port and starboard side.  If you do not, you will undo your adjustment to the bulkhead and false keel on one side, causing you to take off more material than needed and then compensating for that error on the other side of the boat.  It compounds the initial error and will require lots more work to fix it.

 

EDIT   Jim Rogers has suggested a qualification of the above stated ALWAYS rule.   Some kits (Model Shipways Syren) require that you switch the orientation of the bulkheads so that in the fore part of the ship the etched letters face forward and the etched numbered bulkheads face aft.   This is because in this kit, and some others, the laser cutting of the bulkhead also cuts or etches a bevel line in the bulkhead that is necessary for fairing the hull, reducing the amount of guess work in fairing the hull.  It is a line that you will fair the bulkhead or produce the bevel to that etched line. As he says below, and I say above, read the instructions.  5/11/18

 

The slots in the false keel and the bulkheads ARE NOT UNIVERSAL.  One size does not fit all.  Just look at the plans and the false keel and you will see that the slots on the false keel are not universally deep.   The kit is well designed with Laser precision.  Each bulkhead has it's own slot.  I realize that this may seem an obvious statement, but for beginner's it may not be.  DO NOT DECIDE TO REMOVE ALL of the char from the false keel slots and each of the bulkheads independently and then try and fit the bulkheads into the false keel. Prepare one bulkhead and it's corresponding slot in the false keel simultaneously, and then move on to the next bulkhead and slot. 

 

4.     You should label with a pencil the slots in the false keel with some of the corresponding bulkhead letters and numbers.   I have marked three on mine.  They are 0 (zero), A,and slot number 1.    And yes, before you ask.   I broke it also.  I blinked, and when I looked down, it was broken.  It fixed very easily however.  More on that later.   You all should accept as a personal challenge getting through the keel prep and setting up the bulkheads without breaking it. IMG_1179.thumb.JPG.ec6bf45efcb99a4cd035761b4ad177c1.JPG

5.     Initially you are just looking for a nice snug dry fit.  Do not force the bulkheads into the slots.  You may split the wood on the keel and bulkhead if you do. You will make the final adjustments when you actually glue them up.

 

6.     The bulkheads will not magically locate themselves properly orientated to the keel or each other.  Just set them all on the false keel and you will see it.  Some will sit at angles to port and starboard, and others will sit at angles that cause one side to be high and the other side low and others will lean either forward or aft.

 

Here are photo's of my boat that demonstrates the fine tuning that will be necessary when its time to glue them up.   I did not take the photo before I completed the keel assembly.  I did not skip a step. Preparing the rabbet, bearding line, and keel assembly will be explained in detail later.

 

IMG_1242.thumb.JPG.95bfc8f66ccb3ce77f84cd14a122bb45.JPGIMG_1246.thumb.JPG.4c7fee662ff27cec1af192c6c0743241.JPGIMG_1247.thumb.JPG.fc0ccca7e67c96f459184c8639d72202.JPG

 

7.     You should work the boat from the center forward and from the center aft when it is time to glue in the bulkheads.  This will help orientating each successive bulkhead with the one next to it and provide more precision.

 

At what point should the bevel begin and end on the false keel please?

 

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At what points should the bevel begin and end on the false keel please? Should the bottom edge of each bulkhead touch the bearding line? I notice on your build that bulkheads E, F, and G do not. I believe this is the main mistake I have made, interpreting that the tops of the bulkheads should be evenly aligned for the deck planks. 

 

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19 hours ago, stewblack said:

At what points should the bevel begin and end on the false keel please? Should the bottom edge of each bulkhead touch the bearding line? I notice on your build that bulkheads E, F, and G do not. I believe this is the main mistake I have made, interpreting that the tops of the bulkheads should be evenly aligned for the deck planks. 

 

Depending on the angle at which the plank is intersecting the stem/stern/keel the bulkheads can stop anywhere from on the bearding line for planks coming in at almost 90 degrees (e.g. center of garboard) to well short of the bearding line for planks coming in at an acute angle (like those going into the sternpost). 

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On 5/1/2018 at 3:49 PM, roach101761 said:

Beginning the model. 

 

Read the entire instruction booklet before you begin.   Its more important to do this than you might think.  Every model book, guide and kit manufacturer tells you do this.  Make sure all the parts are there as every model book, guide and kit manufacturer tells you to do.  Knowing what comes next will help you organize your work and any required tool or material purchase.   Most important you will know which parts are missing and to order them from the manufacturer.

 

I went through the instruction book twice and discovered that it does not actually tell you that there are duplicate parts (extra parts) in the kit.  Below are the photos of the the extra parts in the kit.    The extra parts are the Keel, Rudder, Stem, Bow filler block, and stern post.

 

IMG_1174(1).thumb.JPG.d80213d70e2310123ad9a65b0bdf9d96.JPG

IMG_1234(1).thumb.JPG.9a2095e1c44446dfa625015d2f2a7188.JPG

 

 

I am starting this build and your observation that there are extra Keel, Rudder, Stem, Bow filler block, and stern post parts explained my first hurdle.  I was thinking I had to glue the two keel and stem parts together (not explained in the instructions) and it put a stop to that.  Thanks!

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On 5/5/2018 at 8:54 AM, Seventynet said:

Thanks for this Phil. I know I will benefit from this build log. 

 

Ian

I second this.  You have already made it much easier, Phil.  Keep up the good work, because I will be coming back.  😎 😎

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On 5/6/2018 at 6:53 AM, roach101761 said:

As requested I now have edited all the above posts to provide for Larger Photographs and I will try to remember to do so in the future.

I have worked on model trains, RC aircraft, wood carving, wood burning and some model ship building and have never had a forum member that did such a thorough job of providing help and explanation for a project such as you are doing.  Keep up the good work. 😎 😎 😎

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Wonderful build log. Hope to see it finished. I'm already nearing completion of my 18th Century Long Boat but I wish I had discovered this log at the very beginning.

 

 

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Sir,

I am part of the perfect target audience for your log having taken on this hobby only in January of this year but used to dioramas and so forth. You seem to be an intelligent man, so will doubtlessly know the term 'preferred learning style' from basic teacher training and similar professional studies. You have obviously taken great care in choosing your subject matter along with accompanying imagery. It represents a very thorough exploration of your ways to approach problem-solving, which is really what modelling is all about -from opening the box or choosing materials for scratchbuilding to the final model which represents a level of completeness -a finality- satisfactory to yourself.

 

Your section on preparation and tools was excellent for this newbie -your stated audience- and I thank you most sincerely. However... your later posts appear didactic and occasionally combatative. Some of the images conjure up Escher and his woodcuts; some sequences are so over-engineered that it is a barrier to my own preferred learning style as a newcomer to model 'water vehicles'. Others will disagree, of course because they learn in their own manner or fashion.

I mean no offence whatsoever, but being inclusive of others' alternate methodology -incorporating other contributions into a collegiate style- should appear to offer less of a treatise and more of an aid to learning, studying. I really think that will help you enormously in the journey towards completion of your project. In this, I merely suggest.

 

Thank you for putting the time in for this build log; I hope to see your next installment.

N.

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Sandy bay and Niki,

This thread hasn’t been updated in a long time. If you need info or reference on how to build this kit then one of the best references is probably from the maker of the kit (Chuck).  He details every step very well. Also, you can get great tips on planking by looking at his larger 1/2” scale version.

 

Enjoy

 

Heres a link to the longboat thread. Enjoy. Longboat LINK

 

Heres the 1/2” scale Longboat link.  1/2” scale Link

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That's great, Dowmer. The more the merrier, as today what is becoming my bete noir -AL's lack of scale plans for a similar project is giving me an aneurysm. Much appreciated. 

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