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HMS Victory by rtwpsom2 and sons - Caldercraft - 1:72nd Scale


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So I went and done it, I shelled out 1200 simoleons for the JoTiKa/Caldercraft Victory.  I won't do to you what I did to the guys at reddit and claim I found it an estate sale for $25 (even though that was really funny).  But in all honesty, it's going to cost a lot more than $1200 (kit + paint + shipping).  There's also the desk I had to build out of this adjustable height desk frame and this desktop. I actually had to buy two of those sets for a total of $700. One is going to be my standing height work desk with my computer on it and the other is going to be a dedicated modeling station which will probably be solely occupied by Victory once I start rigging it. Then add in the various tools I bought just for Victory, like a mini table saw and cheap rotary tool since my Dremel died (and clamps, lot's of clamps), and that's another $200. Then there is the practice kit I bought.

 

While I have a couple wood ship kits under my belt now, this is a project I want to do with my younger two sons, 6 and 11.  I will probably be doing the main stuff, but I want this big project to be a collaboration so when they are older, they can look back and be proud of what we did together.  Towards that end, I won't be starting Victory until we have done the longboat.  I want them to get a little experience under their belts before they try to help tackle the elephant in the room.

 

So for now, I'll post this unboxing as a placeholder, since I doubt many of you have seen what's inside this kit.

 

The Box: 41" x 12" x 6", 33 lbs/15 Kg

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The reverse side

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with the top off

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Seperate paint set

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various papers

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Manual 1; The Hull

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Manual 2; The Rigging (and small boats)

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Manual 3; The Parts List

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more to come...

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The Bulk Material

 

This post will concern the rod, strip, and dowel material that was included.

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The round stock includes many different types of wood in a variety of sizes.  

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Laying out some of the strip

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The dowels are mostly made from Birch, while the strip wood is mostly walnut with some Lime and some Tanganika.  There is also some brass rod.

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Rigging thread

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Anchor Cable

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I'm including the guns here because there are roughly 3 Kg's of them.

DpkKYVj.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Brass Photoetch

 

starting with the largest piece, you can see where it slid down and wrapped around the cardboard backer included with the brass frets. The damage was mainly done to the oars of the long boats, which I might scratchbuild anyway. The green mat has a grid that is 1" x 1" so you can use that for scale.

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The oars are about 4 inches long, so it's not like they would be a super tiny detail to scratchbuild.

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Fret 2

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fret 3

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fret 4, this one is very thick, about three times the normal PE thickness

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fret 4 details

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fret 5bOJMDJb.jpg

fret 6

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fret 6 close up

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fret 7 is the lantern housings

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fret 8 had a minor amount of curling damage

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fret 9 as well

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both of the last two will be pretty easy to flatten out.

 

Whelp, that about wraps up the unboxing.  When the longboat comes in I'll make a separate thread about that, so this is the last you'll hear about Victory for a month or two at least, though I might post a few pictures when I complete the setup for the hobby workplace.

 

 

 

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This kits is renowned for being the "Go To" replica in wood of HMS Victory,   all the stuff is there to make a Truly outstanding ship,   all I will say is -  Take your time - then more time and even more time after that, study every aspect and dry fit, then test and challenge the dry fit, get to know how every stage will influence the next stage.

Study as much as you can about the real ship.

 

This Realy has all the potential to be Superb.

 

I will be taking a seat screwing it down and following along with much interest.

 

sincerely  Old Collingwood.:cheers:

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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When finished you will have made a family heirloom. It was two years of intense building to make this model and I enjoyed every minute. I will follow your build as it will be like making it all over again.  This is such a beautiful ship with such a great history. Best regards, CPS_skybolt.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Does anyone have suggestions for handling large drawings in a relatively limited space?  My work area isn't the smallest in the world, but the drawings that came with the JoTiKa Victory are around 3' tall x 5' wide.  I don't have much area to spread them out so I was wondering how you guys deal with them.

 

The workshop/office is in my barn, it's a split level barn that was on the property when I bought it about 6 years ago.  The top level was "finished" in that it had been insulated and drywalled, had electricity, running water, and even a phone line. However most of the floor was bare plywood and the part that had a wood floor on it was made from knotty pine and was badly warping. We mostly just used it as storage until I put my office in here about three or four years ago. I have slowly been working on it ever since. About 3/5ths is now a video gaming room with a kitchenette, the other 2/5ths is my office. The bottom floor is storage. The point of this description is that I've spent the last 2 months building the kitchenette and making major changes to the office.  I just added two adjustable height desks that can be used as seated or standing desks.  One is for work (I work from home), it has my work computer and all my references on it.

 

l5v8jMF.jpg

 

 and the other is now the hobby bench.VoR3mFS.jpg

 

As you can see, it's still a bit of work in progress.  I haven't decided on a floor yet, and I'll probably paint the walls at some point, too.  But for now it's enough to get started. Another bright note to this is that I was finally able to unpack my manga collection and put it on shelves.  You can see a couple of them against the far wall. I have six of the shelves in total and they are all completely full of manga.

 

You can also see the HMS' Endeavour's Longboat kit from Artesania on the workbench.  My two younger sons and I will be doing that kit first in order for them to gain a little experience before we start Victory, which you can see in it's box under the bench.  Victory's drawing set is rolled up on the desk, which brings me back to my earlier question, where the heck do I put them and how can I use them without having to unroll them on the floor.

Edited by rtwpsom2
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Do you know what I would do in all honsty  - I would move the long desk along under the wall and move the book shelves, that way you could pin up the drawing you are working from, and simply replace it when you move on to the next stage in the plans - they would be right under you when you need them.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Share on other sites

I would, OC, except for the fact that the barn has a gambrel roof, and that wall is sloped inward to match the angle of the roof.  In order to raise the desk to standing height I would have to put it at a considerable distance from the wall in order to raise it.  And then, when it is raised, the wall slope would still come into the work area.  There is also the fact that where it is now I will be able to access both sides of the model without moving it, a fact that, after viewing numerous build logs in this forum, I believe will come in handy.  

 

I had considered getting a piece of lexan and a piano hinge and mounting it to the wall above the shelves with the hinge at the bottom, and then storing the drawings behind the lexan with the one I wanted to view on the outside.

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Hi.

Sounds like a very good idea.

5 hours ago, rtwpsom2 said:

I had considered getting a piece of lexan and a piano hinge and mounting it to the wall above the shelves with the hinge at the bottom, and then storing the drawings behind the lexan with the one I wanted to view on the outside.

Being on a angle is a bonus.  you will be able to check on the plans while sat down.

That is one massive model ship. 

On 12/06/2018 at 12:42 AM, Old Collingwood said:

Truly outstanding ship,   all I will say is -  Take your time - then more time and even more time after that, study every aspect and dry fit, then test and challenge the dry fit, get to know how every stage will influence the next stage.

Study as much as you can about the real ship.

Collingwood speaks fair words and its very good advice. Experanced  or bigginer its the way to go.

 

Regards Antony.

Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask.

Completed Mayflower

Completed Fun build Tail boat Tailboat

Completed Build Chinese Junk Chinese Pirate Junk

Completed scratch built Korean Turtle ship 1/32 Turtle ship

Completed Santa Lucia Sicilian Cargo Boat 1/30 scale Santa Lucia

On hold. Bounty Occre 1/45

Completed HMS Victory by DeAgostini modelspace. DeAgostini Victory Cross Section

Completed H.M.S. Victory X section by Coral. HMS Victory cross section

Completed The Black Pearl fun build Black Queen

Completed A large scale Victory cross section 1/36 Victory Cross Section

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