Colonial Sloop Norfolk 1798 by Jeff E - FINISHED - Modellers Shipyard - 1:36 scale

[Jeff-E]

Hi Frank ,

 

 Thanks for dropping in and for your kind comments. It was Danny's log that inspired me to build this kit and I was very lucky to have most of the planking done before the old site crashed as Danny's log helped me alot in working out the run of the planks, I am pleased with the result  .The kit itself is of good quality; the laser cutting, timber strips and most of the supplied parts are very good quality except for a few minor issues which I believe have been rectified in the updated version I would recomend it to any one interested in building it.  

[Jeff-E]

Hi ZyXuz,

 

Thakyou for looking in and for your kind words

[Jeff-E]

Hi All,

 

My Next  job was to rig the gaff. this consisted of 2 lines the throat halyard and the peak halyard.

 

The throat halyard was rigged through two 2 hole blocks one attached to the strap on the mast and the to an eye pin near the jaws of the gaff it was then belayed to the starboard pin rail.

 

The peak halyard stars at a ring bolt on the starboard side of the mast and goes through the three blocks attached to the mast and the two blocks attached to the gaff and then terminates at a ring bolt on the port side of the mast

 

 

 

 

The last picture shows the belaying points on the deck. the peak halyard is belayed to the 2 eyebolts next to the mast, the throat halyard to the lefthand belyaying pin and the jib halyard to the 2 outer eybolts.

 

 

[Jeff-E]

Hi All,

 

The first picure shows another view of the gaff rigged.

 

 

The next job was to fit and rig the driver boom; this spar only has two lines rigged to it they being the topping lift and the mainsheet.. The boom was attached to the mast with parrel beads and the jaws rested on the boom support fixed to the mast.

 

 

The two lines were then rigged. The topping lift starts at a two hole block fitted to the mast at the shroud cleats and goes down to aone hole block fitted to the end of the boom and then back up through the two hole block and back down to the deck belaying off at the port side belaying pin.

 

 

 

The mainsheet is rigged using two two hole blocks one attached to the boom and the other to a rail fitted to the transom the blocks are reeved together and the the line belays to the cleat on the port side  of the transom.

 

 

 

[Jeff-E]

AS you can see in the last post the tiller has been fitted unfortunately some of the pictures I took of the rigged mainsheet were not very clear  . The tiller was not fitted until all the rigging in this area was complete  

 

The next two pic's show another view of the boom rigging

 

 

 

I then fitted the tiller to the rudder.

 

 

 

[Jeff-E]

The last stage of the rigging before I tackled the ratlines was to rig the backstays. The stays had previously  been siezed around the mast cleats and consist of a single line with a one hole block siezed to the end of it. Another length of black cord is then treaded through this one hole block and attached to the second dogbone fitted to the gunwale a double violin block is siezed to the other end of this line. The violin block is then reeved to the one hole block attached to the pedestal on the outside of the hull and belayed to the eyebolt fitted just inside the rail on each side.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jeff-E]

Hi Brian ,

 

Thanks for looking in . I agree this is a excellent kit for a beginner to this great hobby, as I am, this is my second build. The main reason I chose it was because of it's bluff bow as I hoped it would teach me me how to plank this type of hull successfully so i could go on and build larger models with this type of hull shape like the Endeavour, Bounty And Victory  

[Jeff-E]

Hi All,

 

So it was now onto the ratlines, this is my first attempt at tying ratlines; my other completed model The Swift did not have them. The first thing to be fitted was the lanyard strips , a piece of 2mm x 3mm walnut tied just above the siezings on the shrouds.

 

 

 

Then came the tying of the ratlines. The instuctions tell you to use 0.25mm tan cord for the ralines and to space them 5mm apart, at this scale that works out to be about a 7" spacing in between each one, which I thought was to close. Keith Julier metions them being between 13" and 15" apart. I decided to space them at 10mm apart which works out to about 14" and it is a nice round number  .

I stared rigging them with the supplied 0.25mm cord and after the first couple had worked out a system of tying them on fairly quickly. However after finishing the starboard side I found that if I rigged the port side with this cord I would not have any left to rig the catheads for the anchors  , so I made the decsion to unpick the starbord side and do the ratlines with some dark brown thread left oveer from the Swift build ( at least A.L. give you plenty of thread even if some of their other parts can be a bit dodgy), it is a little bit thicker about 0.30mm approx but I think it looks OK and it saves me dying the tan thread black which is what I was going to do  

 

The first pictures are of the lower ratlines rigged with the supplied thread

 

 

 

 

[Jeff-E]

The next set of pictures are of the ratlines tied with the brown cord

 

 

 

 

[Jeff-E]

So I am finally up to the last major project on this build that being making and fittng the anchors, catheads and  the anchor winch.

 

I will deal with how I built each of these parts and then with how they were fitted and rigged together. As before most of these parts were made some time ago.

 

The first part I will deal with is the cathead. There are two of them and they were made from 5mm x 5mm walnut. The longer pice had four 1mm holes drilled into one end and I filed a groove in between each set of holes so that the rope would lie neater when it was rigged. The support leg was then cut so that when assembled the cathead sits over the rail at a slight angle. These were doweled together wit two 0.75mm treenails. A cleat and eye pin were also fitted to each one and a brass pin fitted to the support leg for extra security when it is fitted to the deck

 

 

 

 

 

[Jeff-E]

the winch is the next part to be described. It was supplied as a small kit although the all of  timber parts needed to be treated in some way either planked with 0.5mm walnut stips or stained.

The two end pieces were covered with 0.5mm x 6mm  walnut planks which were then sanded to shape

 

 

The windlass was shaped into a hexagon either side of the cogs and planked with 0.5mm x 3mm sappeli and holes were drilled to take the poles that turn the winch, these were made square by pressing a square needle file into the holes.

 

 

 

The windlass was then glued between the two end frames

 

 

A length of brass wire was then fitted through the end frames onto which the pawls and operating handles were fitted

 

 

And finally the cap piece was fitted and the whole assembly varnished

 

[The Sailor]

Hi Jeff, that's a very nice little ship and you did a fantastic job!

[Captain Slog]

Hi Jeff,

 

Just catching up on your build and your rigging is looking first class, nice work.

[Jeff-E]

Hi Brian, Richard and Slog,

 

Thank you all for looking in and for your kind words

[riverboat]

Excellent work on the rigging Jeff, first class job!!
Frank

[Dan Vadas]

Hi Jeff,

 

Very nice work on everything .

 

A couple of points :

 

You probably should have fitted Mast Hoops for the Gaff sail, even though you aren't fitting sails - much too late now though :

 

 

 

The Catheads were fitted with Sheaves. To simulate them (which you can still do) and make them look more realistic you could carve or file them as the one on the right in the pic below. It makes the way the line runs around them look a lot better than just drilling the four holes :

 

 

 

  Danny

[Jeff-E]

Thank you very much Frank

[Jeff-E]

Hi Danny,

 

 Thanks for looking in and for your kind comments and tips.

 

I did consider fitting mast hoops but unfortunately thought of it too late after the mast had been asembled and fitted  . I did try with brass wire to make the hoops but they looked ugly so I removed them.

 

I have carved a small groove inbetween the holes in the cathead they are a bit hard to see in the photo

Edited June 17, 2013 by Jeff-E

[Jeff-E]

Hi All,

 

The last parts to make up were the anchors. These also were supplied in a little kit. The first thing to do was to square the hole in the anchor stock and then to fit the four brass straps to it and solder the ends together

 

 

 

They were then glued in place, filed smooth and painted black

 

 

 

[Jeff-E]

The stock was then glued to the anchor and the ring attached and soldered. The supplied ring was I thought to small so I used a larger one as I wanted to serve it

 

 

 

 

The anchor cable was then tied to the anchor using a fishermens or anchor bend knot

 

 

[Jeff-E]

Thank you kindly  Brian

[Jeff-E]

Hi All ,

 

The next step was to fit the catheads and winch, the fitting of these was straight forward I had pre dilled holes iin the deck to take the pins attached to the legs of the catheads and winch supports I also filed the cap rails at an angle where the catheads would sit. The first picture shows this altough it is a lot earlier in the construction.

 

 

The next two show the catheads fitted

 

 

 

The next three show the winch fitted. I got a bit ahead of myself and had the port anchor partly rigged before I rembered to take a picture    

 

 

 

 

[The Sailor]

Hi Jeff, very nice anchor and catheads.

[Jeff-E]

Thank you Richard for your kind comments.

 

Hi All,

 

The next job was to rig the anchors. This was fairly straight forward the anchor cable was fed through the hawse hole and wrapped twice around the winch, with the free end going into the cable hole in the deck. The cat head was rigged along with a three hole 7mm block which had a hook glued into one end of it, this was hooked through the anchor ring

 

 

 

The block was rigged 0.25mm cord, starting at the eye pin on the cat head and reeving it through the block and cat head, finnishing at the cleat on the cat head.

 

 

 

I got the cord to hang realistically by hanging a weight off the anchor ring and cable and painting it with a solution of diluted PVA glue.

There was no provision in the kit for stowing the anchors. So I fitted two eye bolts to the cap rail on each side so the anchor arms could be secured

 

 

[Jeff-E]

And so the last major part of this build is complete.

 

 

 

 

 

 

All that needs to be done now is to make up and add some rope coils, which are in the process of being made now and to finnish off painting and varnishing the stand.

I aslo raised the Ensign yesterday    

 

 

I will post some pictures of the finnished model over the weekend

[mathewp]

Nice tidy work Jeff, what's next??

[Jeff-E]

Hi Mathew,

 

Thanks for taking a look and for your kind comments.

 

My next build is going to be the HM Schooner Pickle by Caldercraft. I hope to start building her next weekend  

[The Sailor]

Hi Jeff, I can't wait to see your Pickle. You will have much fun building this little schooner.

[Jeff-E]

Hi Richard,

 

Thankyou. I can't wait to start building her I'm really looking forward to it

[Jeff-E]

Hi All,

 

Well she is finnished there are a few errors and a couple of things I think I could have done better but overall I am very happy with how she turned out  

 

For those who are interested  it took me approximately 400 hours to complete, approximately because I did not keep an accurate time log in the middle stage of the build  I intend to keep an accurate time log for the next build

 

 

I would also like to thank everyone who has looked at this log for their words of encouragement and advice I hope you enjoyed looking at it  

 

Some pictures