Aphrodite 1853 by jond - 1:96 - RESTORATION - Boothbay Maine ship

[Jond]

post 16

 

a new shop and sitting on the side for a awhile

In another build of 1st Pinky Schoonerin Boothbay  I share both eh house move and deadline for that build. As we are heading toward the end of the year I want to update what we are doing on this build.  Call the ship build vs the schooner build.

 

• Ap 100  I decided to completely build the main mast in place.  So here I started with the forestays.

 

• Ap 101 Here I went ahead and put on several of the top shrouds.   I learned a few tricks while in new Bedford to help speed up ratlines and I look forward to trying it here.

 

• Ap 102  here is the siding story.  As recorded in my other log, I have moved and am in the process of building a new shop.  Aphrodite had a nice car ride and is now happily resting on the shelf of the new rigging desk. 

Once we get through the holiday rush and the shop is mostly up and running, she will get some more action.  I also have a new side mission as a version of Cutty Sark just showed up and I need to do a bowsprit repairs. I will share that here this winter too

 

Cheers

[KeithAug]

On 7/30/2019 at 5:01 PM, Jond said:

I am pre threading dead eyes in batches of 6.  That number has to do with attention span.

Hello Jon, Just catching up and loved your comment above. It just chimed with how I sometimes feel. Funny thing this creeping decline process.

[Jond]

Keith

 

happy to hear from you here. I love to drop in and see your work too..   as soon as i get the 1st Pinky [ Superb ] planked I will be back here rigging away, since that Pinky will be on the hard with a crew trying to rig it too. I will need more figures to do that.

 

cheers 

 

 

[Jond]

Post 17

 

This winter’s  break

 

Today is not another progress posting but a re opening of this log. It is three or more months since I have been able to get to this build and it was an eventful; period.  Below I just want to fill in talk about what is coming.  I wrestle with the purpose of this build, Highly accurate, just a saving of a cast away model or somewhere in between.  We made a repair to a broken Cutty Sark bowsprit that allowed me to work on a larger scale model with a compromise on the level of detail, did a little research trying to identify where this ship was built and read a lot more about rigging yard arms. 

• 103  In the last exchange re the size of dead eyes I had forgotten an few pictures that were in the camera. He we share what many are familiar with and that is the difficulty of rigging this small scale for the newcomers like me
• 104 here I am laying out six pieces of thin thread at a time and applying some CA so the ends can actually go through the little holes.  I found a for sewing. lighted magnifier normally used for fine needle point and wow I can see what I am trying to do. 

 

Cutty Sark bowsprit.  Yes it happens.  a youngster could not resist touching the model and snap went the bowsprit.

• 105 the oops
• 106 I took these two photos so I could remember which line was port and starboard
• 107 ditto
• 108 I taped it together so I could measure for new one
• 109 I remade the “it’s a mast cap if on a mast” so Sprit cap??? the broken one was squared up. so I chose not to file it to be more rounded.
• 110 all fixed

 

More research.   As I am completing the study of the first Pinky Superb, 1816 and moving boat works to Boothbay 1826. I am trying to find out where Mr. McDougal and Sargent were working in 1853.They were both named as builders and owners.

111 here is photo of the blow up of the Boothbay Inner harbor in 1857.   This view and checking all the names eliminated the thought that Aphrodite was built in the inner Harbor.  We are still betting on East Boothbay.  More on that to come.

 

Cheers

Edited March 9, 2020 by Jond

[Jond]

Post 18

 

Starting yards and things

 

As I return to this build, I am reminded this is the first ship rig I have ever done. I started some whalers, but they are resting waiting to comeback, and no rigging was started.   It is also quite challenging to do any good detail as it is 1:96.   So I thought.   During the period I started this build and then again resumed it last week, I have been bouncing between NRJ logs of both Young America and the Great Republic.  Though different, they are both amazing and incredible detail is there.  There are so many wonderful things.  Then I have, as I stated earlier in the build, all the books from the famous Mr. Crothers.    To make a yard one can go correctly through the 7 trims sequence as Ed Tosti teaches us.  Or one can spin dowels in a drill or lathe and file or sand on a taper, add some black tape for a few bands and be done with it.   Some day I would love to build a yard properly.  With my all thumbs though I am thinking more about doing it on another build.   What scale would make more sense for me. Also as a rebuild of an existing model I would like to reuse yards that are OK.   I already threw out all the masts.

 

Loan of the Cutty Sark Model for me to fix the bowsprit was a great opportunity to study a nice ship model.

• 112 here she is sitting in front of the window. I was intrigued with the afternoon back lighting and took a few photos.
• 113 here we see why sails can make such a difference on a model. With them in place one does not really notice the yards construction nor connections at all.
• 114 I zeroed in and Viola…..an acceptable compromise answer to detail.    This model looks great, but what are the technical specs.  First, it measures out to be 1:64 or 3/16” to 1 ft scale.  Not as easy to work with at 1:48 but looks easier than what I am trying for my first ship.  More importantly look at the connections of lines and blocks and things.   They are simply tied off for the most part.  No splices to eyebolts.  The spars are clearly sanded dowels and I see no or at least little as far as ironmongery.    Something to think about as I am struggling below on this my first ship.

Back to work

I set up my new rigging desk and laid out the parts and pieces for making the twelve-yard arms.  I want to use all the original spars where I can

• 115 here I have drawn the proper lengths and diameters on a yellow paper, and I identified which will be which.  It looks like the three lower yards plus the fore topsail yard will be new, but I can rescue the rest.
• 116 I gathered all my little holders to set up an assembly line to lash blocks. I get 7 at a time.
• 117 I copied a set up I think I saw on Great Republic build to hold yards as they get trimmed out. I also learned there of the source of dental bands for presized bands.  I bought an box of them on eBay for $12.  This is my biggest yard and it is the smallest band in the box, so I guess future consumption will require larger scale.
• 118 I set up the foremast, so in between tasks I can complete ratlines and tying on lashed blocks, as the trim out of the yards is completed.

now i need to get some work done

cheers 

 

 

[Jond]

Post 19

 

Foremast yards part 1

 

Now is when I get nervous.  I made up double spliced pennants for the lower lifts.  I am not sure any bigger line would fit through these tiny blocks.   The foot ropes don’t hang right and the memory in all the thread is so strong the lines just don’t lay right.  Perhaps after on board and the lines are tied off it will be better, but I am not thrilled. This is the first time I have ever done one of these. I am sure after twelve yards I will figure it out.     The fore topsail yard is trimmed out and I need to decide how to finish it. The lower yard was surely a ‘made’ yard and painted.  I also need to figure out how to attach it at the mast.  There is not enough wood to connect a band.  I am thinking of placing a pin through the yard into the mast and then 1/16” black tape for the band on the aft side it is seems a void when done.

 

I will complete this fore mast as I am doing, knowing that it might all come off to be redone once I get the hang of it..  Example

• 119 here is another closer look at my first attempt.   The pennant should have been spliced around the block.  The lift line might be one size larger and tan.   The foot rope will get diluted glue and pulled into better shape.  Even the experts I followed on other logs bemoan the difficulty with keeping them looking good.   

After completing this mast. I will go to the Mizzen and try again off the boat.  Presumably after two masts I can do the main mast on board as planned.  I will then decide how much of this one to redo.   One little detail is I need to put and iron band over the lower mast head to hold the double blocks, and not use the eyes on the crosstrees that will be needed for running rigging.  I will comment on the possible adding of any running rigging as I go.   I think only lifts and braces at the moment.  Again, this build is a repair of a model and to record the first ship in town.   It is a learning curve for me. That is all I can promise.

 

A few days later, I made a little progress fixing above.   In the past few days after writing the above, then fixing a few things, I have made a few conclusions.  I am not sure if it was a good night sleep or the second shot of scotch as we listened to the news about the world’s new corona virus Friday night.   But I propose the following

 

• 120 I made up a brass strap to sit on top of the lower mast and reach forward to catch the two double blocks for the lower yard lifts.   I learned this from the masters.  My attempt at least improves the accuracy.
• 121 I much prefer this look as the little brass strap projects the load from the mast top and not just shear double connection coming from the crosstree eyebolts. The crosstrees simply wrap the mast and are better designed for more vertical loading.  The line is still black and will need to change at some point too.   One thing this picture shows me is that tying ratlines with a continuous line and then cutting the loop ends does not work at this small scale.  They look rough from this angle.   Also looking to the old vs the new yards, one can see I followed Mr. Crothers with the octagon section of the built-up lower yard. He shows the center 1/8 of lower yard “the sling” being octagonal.  He shows the next section with three sides to aft and round forward.  I chose to ignore that as being a detail out of proportions to what I can accomplish here.  On the top sail yards above, I am replacing an old one and all of the upper yards are round per his book.   This one is pinned in place. A chain halyard will go up to a ring in the top gallant mast below the cross tree [ I think] I am still studying how the halyard works.
• 122 stepping back one sees all for foremast yards under way.  I have added bands, jack stays and foot ropes.  I share my woe.   The topsail foot ropes were soaked with diluted white glue and pin hanged like the lower lard foot ropes are now.  It did not work obviously. Also, one side is stretched a bit.  I suppose one drills holes below the yard and puts in two vertical black wires pretending to be pennants?  I could soak them with CA and they lose all semblance of line. maybe varnish on the line to dry hard?

 

So much to learn.       

[mtaylor]

Sorry about the line troubles.  Is it cotton or synthetic?   Synthetic doesn't like the glue and water treatment as it won't soak in.

[Jond]

mark

 

Thank you for dropping in and commenting

 

I have experimented with different thread and for most of my work use cotton and diluted white glue.  The actual thread here that is typically my tie off thread is mercerized, I think that is to make it stronger.  I have a weak memory of being told not to use mercerized thread because it has memory and is really tough to hold shape. That issue is the exact problem i am dealing with today.   I think since they look bad and after two attempts with glue are not getting better, I should cut them off and use some other cotton.

 

cheers 

 

 

Edited March 18, 2020 by Jond
typos

[Jond]

I could not stand the ugly outer yard lifts, so today I fixed one.  well almost.   I also cheated on the topsail lift by not yet inserting a chain. I am looking for some the right size and will try.  In this real close up photo, the shine of the tung oil over stain is a bit much.    The next two yards are coming without tung oil to compare.

 

123 

[Jond]

post 20

 

foremast yards part 2….I thought

 

I already shared my redo of the lower yard lift and new issue of not liking the shine of tung oil on the upper yards.   My plan here was to bull through this first mast and then set a plan to do better on the mizzen before determining how much to redo.    Another Oops is coming

 

124  I added the top gallant yard and there is no shine…much better.   The foot ropes are still terrible, but at least the ratlines are getting better... for me at least.  I am now tying each one, no more loops. We’ll look closer after another day when I get to the top

 

125 when I went to add the royal yard I realized the need to get the two more forestays in place on the upper mast shoulder to hold up the lashed blocks that will in turn hold up the yard. I sliced the first one on, and then realized as I set the mast in place to measure the first of two head stays, that I have done nothing to the old bow sprit.  oops.....Oh well another detour

126  I must say  photos like this one are fun.  Yes lots of rework is coming, but at least some steps forward

 

Next up the bowsprit detour.  

 

Cheers

[Jond]

Post 21

 

Bow sprit and capstan part 1

 

I am off on a detour and that is always good.  I need to do some deck work to get that phase completed about the same time I complete masts. First off is to figure out the bowsprit and jib booms

 

127   we start off looking at what we have.   the top jib boom is rather short, and I am afraid needs to go.  The sprit itself is fine but a little big.

 

128 I don’t have enough hands to hold out the projected distance but by roughing in what I get from study will be a little less than the image here.   The jib boom is woefully too short and must go.

 

129 back to the books, Mr. Crothers that is.  I spent some time and concluded with the following reconstruction.   Alma our Maine built sister ship is rig 51. That means three jibs.  All of the standard drawings in his book are for two jib configurations, so I need a little poetic justice here.  What I concluded is to take the details of the separate flying jib boom and apply it to the end of the normal jib boom and then use the three dimensions form his appendix.   The blue annotations are what I will be using.  I will show what I mean in the next post

 

130 here we have roughed out the blank. Using advise from a few logs I will drill all the sheave holes and things before rounding.

 

Deck work

 

It is time to build a capstan.    I had fun building winches for my 1:12 scale Boothbay Harbor One design sailing sloop, so I decided to work in that way here.   I hope it works

 

131 the smaller dowel is reduced and glued into the larger dowel.  The smaller is the shaft and d it almost true to scale at 12 inches.

 

132 here I cut off the larger dowel [ see plug giving added strength.  I used a razor saw to cut in the 8 slots.  

 

133 here after cutting notches I slid a second washer up and glued it.  The first whelp is being glued in.  I will sand the curve after the glue has dried. The lower washer and wood stand are loose at the moment

134 I had to figure out how to fix the top.   Here I took another dowel and sanded, filed and sawed a top.  The leg to sit inside the top washer…. I hope

135 I have dry set the capstan in place. In the same period, I build the forward pin rail, forward bitts and extended knight heads.   I took all these details right out of Mr Crowther’s forward standar4d deck plan

 

136 a closer look at the capstan. I need to think about how to finish it. I am thinking stain and black metal like the windless

 

137 I also tried to do the topsail lift in chain.   I tried six times to solder copper chain to bent copper wire loop.  I finally gave up and used lock tight glue.  The chain is too fine for thread to go through the links. 

 

Up next is get most of these things done and then figure out what else is needed on deck.

 

[Jond]

I had to laugh at myself again.   I was reading Mr. Crothers again this morning as I am making up the list of what I need to build on deck.  i got to his table that takes one through the detailed rigging of a ship line by line.  the fore topsail does not get a chain.   the three lowers do and the the main topsail does.   i will tr=y again when i get there to solder chain to wire.  i really need to get the hang of it.

 

anyway I am in the middle of skylights and rails

 

cheers 

[Jond]

 

Post 22

 

Bow sprit and deck work part 2

 

I like to work on several different things at a time.   That is why these posts are so partial. 

 

Deck work.

 

It is time to build fife rails, pumps, skylights and think about boats.  Also to add any more critical deck eyes for standing rigging.    

 

• 138 I start this midpoint review by reminding myself of the Crothers design of Alma that we are using. There are few differences that will help us understand at least where a few things don't work out just right.  As per our text, Aphrodite was 680 tons at 147 feet long and 31+ wide.  Alma was 826 tons at 153 feet long and 34+ wide.  The 6 feet in extra length could be very help full and I will show where.  The width is less significant.   This Alna plan is basically what I am building.    Does it all fit?  

 

 

• 139 Reading other people’s logs can significantly improve our work.  Here I am following where many went before me.  This is the first time I started to use by my big brothers hand me down Sherline set up as a mill to drill little holes all in a row.  Wow what a difference. 
• 140 reading another log I learned to use screening for windows and the like.  Why not sky lights at this tiny scale?  We’ll see
• 141 I am trying to build fife rails.  Wow are they small.  I cannot yet imaging tying off lines to these, but I am going on adding lined to the rigging.  I need to rethink line sizes, that is for sure.
• 142 boats.  This can be a long story.

 

Boats on ships.  After more reading I learned that ships over 400 tones should have had three boats.   The question is where they go.    This is the typical location and we are good with two.  We need to omit or significantly reduce the sky light, or maybe place the boats lie out nearer the edge if we want three.    More study is needed. In the meantime, I think I am staying with two.   Also these boats are small at 22 and 24 feet. I plotted out a long boat and there was no way to bring it aboard.

 

So for this midpoint review to see what we are going to try to show

 

• 143  this overall view shows fife rails, boats  and skylights partially done and sitting in place
• 144 the main fife rail is extended to pick up pumps.  I am taking this from other common designs but have no specific information.
• 145  this view shows an issue.  The hole in the deck is for the capstan located as per the plan.  Once we extend the fife rail and will put in something to represent the pumps, it is obvious we need to move the capstan to the center of the open space.  I will probably add a pad to cover up the oops and it may be properly located under the pumps.
• 146 here the rail is in at the foremast.   The tightness of the whole area is a problem if one considers the lack of clearances.  This are would benefit with each of those 6 feet of difference in the two ships designs. 

 

Bowsprit update

 

• 147 here I am able to use a dental band for the ring on the bowsprit
• 148 the bowsprit on the original model is almost ¼" too short.  I compensate by making the cap proud of the bowsprit.   I add both the band and bees as I prepare to rig this out.  
• 149 here we see the overall rigging plan with the extended bowsprit.   Now I have some idea of what is in front of me.

 

Up next is to clean up and complete what is here.  Nail down the cabins, build a boat frame and rig the bowsprit.

 

Cheers

[Jond]

Post 23

 

Complete forward deck

 

This is always the fun part.  As we read others logs and learn how to do things a new way it is always fun to try things out.  There will be several things here that I tried and as long as I get the idea right, I am happy.   

 

First a few assembly items

 

• 150 first up is make boat skids.  I learned the are shaped to fit parallel to the cabin roof. Here we are shaping them
• 151 There are many small parts to make and paint. I decided to use real 3/16” belaying pins on the fife rails as they are so visible. I had some of the right scale in pear but two of eight broke while trying to install them.  I assume any attempt to tie off to them would be a disaster, so I opted for brass.  The boats are simple sand and file carved and solid.  I added keels, bow stems and gunnels.  The painted screen in the skylights is not perfect but represent windows well enough. I wish I had a source of a bigger size mesh.  I should I suppose add bars and would have if working at a bigger scale
• 152 here I drilled in pins and installed the boat skids.   This is where I decided I need to show the required 3 boats that a merchant ship was required to carry if over 400 tons. [ so I read]

 

 

Now a review of the bow area

 

• 153 A general overview shot.  Aphrodite is now sitting in a rigging stand. We all have our own approach. I started these stands for my former schooners that were 4 to 7 feet long.  This is an experiment for now at this small size, but I am thinking to use this for models with copper tape bottoms too.   These strapped stands let me rotate the hull and don’t hurt the bottom.   I did add the main topmast forestays
• 154 The bow sprit and jib boom and lashed bob stays. I laugh at this picture as I see the cap twisted on me.  oh well.
• 155 Here is the some of the work. I made little handles for the windless see-saw lever. I was proud of my soldering. I bought a real solder stand and found it much easier to hold a pin to a bar and get a simple solder joint without too much pain. 
• 156 The port anchor is secured for sailing on the rail. I am still concerned as to all the anchor lifting and holding operations. I learned the schooner method which is a bit different.  The 6-part block in the cat head did not work out for me at this scale, so in the rebuild cat head there are two sheaves. I chose to rig one block and with a hook that I assume grabs the chain.    I also assume the fishing tackle from the top of the foremast would be hoisting the anchor. I would love to learn the right way for these ships vs Schooners.  In the meantime, I lashed the block to a pin on the rail.
• 157 the starboard anchor is ready to drop.   I have the short chain from under the cat head to an open hook on the forward side of the cat head.  The L shape bar, its handle up, has a holding bar bent over the aft side of the cat head holding the handle upright.    I took this idea from the well-known master in his volume II on Young America.
• 158 Looking aft things seem to be where they need to be. Note the added space between the head, bosun locker and center structures. I trimmed them up and squeezed them back into the sides a bit and lowered their roofs. I also replaced the forward pin rail with a new one drilled in the mill and with real belaying pins
• 159 Boats I will not lash them down yet as they may interfere with rigging the main mast. This is also a good shot to see the change I made to the standard plan that had a big skylight in the middle of the cabin. I literally cut it in half and lowered it to make it proportional for the space available with the added boats.
• 160 this to me is an important view.  Please refer to picture 146 where I discuss the tightness of al this area.  It was just wrong.  I took it all apart, shrunk things a bit and now there is a corridor to the two little ladders and maybe 2 full feet between the bitts and the companionway.  One possible change still needed that jumps out in this picture is to slide the capstan aft to center it within the area between the bitts and the samson post ,  I will not move it enough to expose the hole now in its center but there should be more room all around it I believe.
• 161 I think the general look is a reasonable representation of what a ship of 1853 would have had on deck before gobs of rigging lines.  Here also is a good view of the whisker booms I added to correctly hold the head stays as they return to the side of the hull. They connect right near the head and need to give the anchor room to be rigged.
• 162 a fun wide angel shot coming at you

 

Looking forward

• 163  I need to work aft. I am making my attempt of pumps and need to get the aft deck done. I had a wheel and small helm but lost it. 

 

Cheers

[Jond]

Post 24

 

A little bit of rigging

 

An early spring pulls us away from the shop a lot, so things tend to slow down.   I built the acrylic box for my other pinky Schooner build, and working on that also takes some time.  Regardless we continue in our internship here of trying both to build a ship for the first time and to work at 1:96 scale.

 

I have fallen into the sequence squeeze.  I can not put in the pumps until I put in the Mizzen fore stay. I cannot do that until I rig off boat  much of the mizzen and set it with yards in place.   When do I install the main lower yard?  Is it better before or after all the upper yards?   Since the mast is already stepped what must be done before ratlines?   I built and lost the helm in the house move last November. I found the rudder and now rebuilt the helm.    Looking at it in place, I need a binnacle.   The dimensions are again tight, so what to do.  On and on we go.

 

After reading professor Tosti volume 2, I decided I need to solve soldering. I leave his incredible machining and basic high quality to an upper class of builder. many of us just remain in awe.  However we must learn so.....I had seen advertisements for the solid base with strong arms holding little pieces that Ed used in his book.  After reading, I finally made the plunge…all of $100 plus investment was made.    wow was it worth every penny. My first try was to make something that needed to hold a pin hard against another brass bar to make a tee handle.  It is a handle for the windlass traveler see saw / wild cat or whatever it is called.

• 164 in this photo I am making a lower yard yoke. 
• 165 here it is after solder and ready for final filing.
• 166 here we are on the main lower yard along with the dental bands and other hardware ready for black paint
• 167 and finally here we are with our first yard in place. That is sort of in place. Lots of lines need to be added. the chain yard sling is rigged and drops toward the deck. I don't know I if need to add block and tackle or where to make it off. The Crowther's book identifies 192 pins on deck and every line that makes off.  No slings are listed there , just the port and starboard lifts.  My confusion is that his line diagram clearly identifies the slings and shows them with a down arrow.  many models just have a little chain going from the yard to an eye on the mast.  i could do that , but I can not imagine how that is correct.
• 168 as a reminder, here are the yards from the existing model. I will throw away the wire connections, plug the holes and go from there.  Hopefully I can reuse them . if not a simple dowel is all I will do for this build. I am not ready for the 7 stages of trimming a log.
•  169 Here I updated the main topsail yard and got her in place and continue to work away at ratlines.

 

Now back to the overall question of sequences.  I am just going for it. Working on everything at once.  Tie a few ratlines, work on a yard to fix, another yard to rig etc.  I am learning with each item, so I guess by the time I finish this thing I hope to be ready to start a ship.   Some simple things I have learned.   I was online at Bluejacket for some things and decided to buy some fine annealed steel to try to use for stropping these tiny wood blocks.  The thread I have been using is just a pain. any load it breaks or comes loose.   Wow the annealed steel wire is so much better than the soft copper stuff I have also been using that comes from Joann’s.  The soft copper wire has no strength to hold shape.  

• 170  here is a look at where I am today on sequence. One thing I find is the upper masts slipped and the shrouds are loose.  As soon as I get all those ratlines on, I will somehow push up the mast to make the shrouds taught and pin it to the lower mast.  It was easy to do on the mizzen off boat, I think it is going to be hard on the main being built in place. i have a pin acting as a fid onto the cross trees, but it is not holding.

 

Finally, back to the deck work that was not completed aft. 

• 171  I rebuilt a helm , put the copper treatment on the rudder and mounted it. I am nuts I know, but I need a binnacle and a bell
• 172  here is my first attempt at a binnacle.  Surely, they would have had iron balls to adjust. I have no info as to what it might have looked like in 1853, so  this try is at least a place holder.  I suppose the bell could go on top of the helm. I have seen that on another model. But if it goes there, who could ever hear it.  Doesn’t it belong amid ship, so the crew can hear watch changes?  On most schooners it is on the foremast facing the companion way to the focs'le. 

 

I have all the dead eyes strung for the mizzen, so coming soon I hope to step it.

Cheers

[Jond]

Post 25

 

Some more rigging….set the masts???

 

 

I remember in one of my earliest posts I was talking about trying to save this old hull and maybe the masts and see if we can turn it into a fun project. The first struggle was the shape of the hull, specifically the round stern. I got a response that asked why I was trying so hard to save this old log of a hull with a too round stern etc.  Looking at some of the photos showing the dinged-up spruce log hull with me suffering to get dead eyes level, all I can do is chuckle.   This ship will never make anyone’s mantle.  Heck it may never leave the shop, but I have learned so much that I really look forward to a future build.  I want to build some Brigs and I feel I will be ready.  I might take it up a notch to 3/16 scale though.   The current scale is becoming less daunting as I work through it and it might be better for a diorama where I have two boats …..Part 2 of my planned Pinky builds by example….next winter perhaps

 

 

The three weeks have been terribly busy on other things, but I try each day to do something.  The tiny little ratlines are finally easy, and I try to do 12 a day.

 

First up is to log progress on the shop rebuild that started with he house move mid-way through this build.   The end of the shop was a garage door, as I understand the first oner stored antique cars. 

 

173 I finally got my new glass door in, so the daylight, especially in the morning is great. The dog loves the new exit to the side yard.

 

Back to Aphrodite…

 

First up we need to take a step back.   When I glued the little brass yoke that holds the main topsail yard lifts, it dribbled and grabbed the topgallant mast.  Top topgallant mast had slipped loosening the top shrouds, so I had to break it out and rebuild the connection.  

Murphy lives. I learned to wrap the upper mast with a styrene piece [ see earlier post] and glue it to the lower mast.  This arrangement allows the mast to slip in and out and from the side looks just like a proper mast cap.  To get a ¾ inch long piece of the right size styrene, the cupboard was empty.   It cost more to ship than to buy.  

174 while we wait a few days for a new mast cap, the top gallant mast remains temporarily clamped. You can see the daily progression of ratlines.

175  I wanted to install the fife rail and pumps around the main mast but needed to get the mizzen set, so the mizzen forestay could be installed first.

176 here is the result of my first attempt to getting the main mast set.  The top mast shrouds are still loose waiting for the reset of the top gallant.  I have been using soft annealed black coated copper wire gauge 24 from Joann’s to make the chain plates . they are quite flimsy. 

177  I commented in the last post of my revelation to use annealed steel wire for this assembly.  Here the top mast dead eyes are all done in steel and I am much happier with the result.  These two photos are the reference I made above of needing to remember this is an old spruce board carved as a hull.   There is no nice planking.

178 another item to go back on is to replace these large topsail yard lift lines that are too big.

179 here we are with smaller lift lines that actually feed through the little holes in the lower mast tops to get to be tied off below, once the shrouds plumb up the mast

180   well here we are. Everything is a mess and we are working in all areas. My next milestone is to get enough done to complete all deck connections.  One example is I need to research to see where to attach the Foremast forestay. Also I need to figure how to attach a spanker boom before I get too much done on the mizzen.

 

All for now

 

cheers

 

[Jond]

Post 26

 

Big oops again….top mast rigging

 

One good thing about all the other activities that come into our lives this time of year is the time to reflect.    Walking by the work bench I kept thinking something is wrong.  I needed to take the time for a fresh look into the rigging plans and be sure I have the big picture right.  Well I did not

 

181   look here without reading ahead and see if the obvious issues hit home.

 

The issue is the relationship of the lay out of the top gallant and royal mast, or  “pole” as they call it in the book. I went back through the tables and then realized what I did wrong. I then redid the clac’s to see how best to fix it.    Over simplified, the main and fore “pole” was made up with 24 feet of top gallant, 16 feet of royal and the top post roughly 5 feet.  That means the shoulder for the stays at the top of the topgallant are just over halfway up the pole

 

182 uses a simple method to point out the errors.   Basically, the shoulder is correct on the main and mizzen and way off on the foremast.  The compounding error was to carry the shrouds and ratlines above that line. As I understand it now the crew apparently did not climb up to the high position of the royal sails but must have lowered the royal yards using the lifts so the yard came down.   How else could they have gotten there to furl the sail. 

 

Anyway, it is all wrong and I need to start that phase again.  

 

183 Some good news though… I got the last fife rails and little pumps installed.  More importantly I successfully tied off the first few lifts.

184 I also decided to add some glue to the base of the mizzen and pull it a bit aft. All the tension from added stays was pulling it forward. I normally do not glue masts. Perhaps at this small scale where the consistency of tension is less consistent, it would be a good idea

 

185   here we are having taken a haircut.   The foretopgallant mast is being replaced and all the shrouds are gone.  I hope to get it right next time

 

Cheers

 

[KeithAug]

Well Jon perhaps it is possible to make a silk purse out of a sows ear. Coming along nicely.

[Jond]

Keith

 

thanks for you fortitude to continue to drop in.    I must say that just because i have become more comfortable in the world of Schooners, that a ship build is the place to go.   it is amazing how much more there is to learn about how all parts of a ship work and what they are called etc.  The sequence too wow ..... this rebuild started as a throw away.   A pigs ear was an over statement.   if I get it back to a pigs ear that will still be a worthy journey for me

 

cheers 

[Jond]

Post 27 

 

Getting organized.  seeking a path to do the rigging and how to do a mizzen

 

One of the joys of doing this build without complete plans is the need to regularly search and discover a plausible solution.   Unfortunately, it has again happened after the first attempt. First up is look over the “mess” as I called it and figure out a sequence.  Then stick to it.  If I glue something or paint something I must not  jump to another extraneous part and work out of sequence.   That is one reason I started up the other build.   

 

As to the sequence I feel a little better about starting in the middle and working out and working from the deck up.  The little example of what had to be done to get the pumps installed was a great learning tool.  So off we go. Last time we took a hair cut and went back a few steps

 

• 186 here is a milestone.  All fore and aft standing rigging is in place and there is a clear list of items missing on the port and starboard shrouds.   I will now work from the deck up.

• 187 first up the boats are now going in and are lashed down
• 188 looking aft we have a definite problem. How are we going to tie down all those yard lifts and other lines? The extended poop deck and house remove deck area around the mizzen mast. 
• 189 looking at the rigging diagram they agree we need fife rails.  But again, we have a skylight in the way. These are not indicated on the plan.
• 190 so being creative I reduced the skylight [ love those band saws] and built up another fife rail.  I am used to trimming down some maple and using the mill to drill straight holes. My new problem is the acrylic craft paints I use are drying out and get lumpy.  Just another pain to deal with.  A most important sight in this photo is where I followed the masting instructions of our friend Mr Crowthers and came out with a lovely spanker boom with yokes and a table for the mizzen mast.  I felt I was back in schooner land where I am much more comfortable.   Looking at it though I just cannot believe it to be right
•  191 I look at the proportions and cringe.  A yoke on the gaff would be ridiculous.   Also starting above the cabin, we are a few feet shorted in the luff.  Would it really have been so long?
• 192 back to the books.  Here we have an image of a more plausible solutions.  There is no full explanation, but a small mast is set aft of the huge mizzen to take the small spanker sail
• 193 here I am with my interpretation. I have a band over mast band forming a goose neck for the spanker boom that simultaneously houses the “{?????} “small mast for the spanker.
•  194 so as this week ends, I had to make other decisions. The spanker sheet is intended to go to both port or starboard rails over the steering gear.  The bitts I added to ho;d the bumkins will allow tying off the sheet. That means I kept the boom at the length given in the table for Alna  our prototype.  Looking at the shallow slope of the topping lift and then imagining the block of the gaff peak halyards this will be a strange looking sail.

 

 

I need to do more study on this part of the build.   perhaps I shorten the spanker boom and have the sheets on the end of the cabin roof.

 

All for now

[Jond]

Post 28

 

Second attempt to figure out that spanker

 

As usual we need to go back to the basics. We must also accept that what we have already built might just not be right.

 

First up is to ask our expert Mr. Crothers how he rigged a typical ship

• 195                                                         is just that, the running rigging for a typical ship. I have cropped enough to make a comparison with the picture 191 above
• 196 here I pasted the two photos side by side and scaled so they can be compared.  A few observations

1. The mizzen in the typical ship is further aft from the main mast.
2. The distance from the mizzen to the stern is much less on the typical ship
3. The potential luff on the typical ship is much taller, making what the eye says is a reasonable spanker sail. 
4. Aphrodite has, by  Alna’s design, a cabin and sky light, and my interpreted fife rail forcing the boom way high.

 

 

 

Something has to give. My current thought is to take off the boom [ already done] and remove or at least lower the sky lights and remove the fife rails.  At this scale it will be very difficult to put cleats on the mast for the 8 lines and actually tie them off. I will have to have some liberty there. Perhaps eight eyes with simple hitches buried under coils of line. 

 

 

• 197                                           this is my next direction.   Reconfigure the boom and lower it as much as possible. 

Just a note... the port shrouds on the mizzen got shredded and broke, so I am going even further backwards. oh and the wheel fell off too.

 

Cheers

[Jond]

There is not enough to write up a post yet,  but i just want to log that I almost made it through the spanker saga.  I tried a different low profile sky light and think I need to change all three to a lower profile.  I have no way yet to tie off about twelve lines at the base of the mizzen mast.  Maybe a new fife rail forward and sides with an open back.   

 

 

Now it is June and we are sailing in a real boat and doing other summer things.  As  I have time to peck away i still hope to get on with this first attempt of a ship. I think the general design corrections are in place for the spanner on a the extended cabin poop deck configuration.

 

198   this view is just to show the boom and gaff are made and in place and tied to all their lines.  the sheets are a bit tight and i will adjust the boom up enough to squeeze a low profile skylight underneath. 

 

cheers 

[KeithAug]

2 hours ago, Jond said:

Now it is June and we are sailing in a real boat and doing other summer things.

Jon ----- We are still subject to the 2 meter rule - no sailing on this side of the pond unless its single handed.

 

Ship coming along well, nice rigging drawing in earlier post - very clearly illustrated.

[Jond]

Keith

 

we have had a glorious two weeks and much time was spent on the water.  yesterday all fog and today so so .  I am online catching up.   The fresh air and typical family plus close friend boating make it a perfect relief in my mind.  Sorry others are still restricted, but i must say being here in Maine at the end of a ten mile peninsula where there are no cases of Covid is a blessing.

thanks as always for your encouragement.   this build is a challenge 

 

cheers 

 

 

 

[Jond]

post 29

 

figuring out the rigging plan

 

Although time is limited by summertime temptations, I am still plugging away at this project. As I have noted often, I consider it class work project and fortunately will not likely leave the shop when done.  In the last few weeks, I have focused on building the bottom and center and getting all lower mast and top mast work done.  At the same time, I need to complete the standing rigging, ratlines etc.   I won’t point out each time it happens, but I am constantly finding loose shrouds that need to be rerun and other things that make me step back.   Maybe that is normal, but I believe it is what happens when close to the edge of our skill.   I am finding it easier to work with the tiny blocks and lines.  Some basic methods have come to me by trial and error and I may even be able to get this one done

 

Last time I showed the partial solution for the Spanker.  I pick it up today and share the almost completion of that work as well as the top masts re rigging of shrouds and the introduction of the yard braces.  My plan is to get everything done before I venture up to ad the to gallant and royal yards.  Today is a partial milestone.  Many lines are still loose as for two basic reasons.  I am focusing on the port side.  To tie done a brace the other side is loose, so I need to get all these in place and then turn the ship around.  I can then start tying things done and making them snug.  I am also doing the 10-15 ratlines per day . I know I need to cut out and redo the fore top mast as it is ugly, and I now find it easier at this scale to do. 

 

So here we go with the planning of what needs to be done to get done.

 

199 I made a cut down [ low profile] sky light to go under the gaff.  If it works, I will give it some frames and then consider if I should change the other two to match

200 here I have compromised and rebuilt side only fife rails so I can tie down lines.  The rings for the spanker are purposely a mix of metal rings just be a motley grouping.

201 I have added all the lines. The gaff vangs are critical to hold all in place.  When I turn the model around, I can tie down the topping lift and peak halyards to raise the boom just off the skylight and make all the lines tight.  All the shrouds had to be rerun as they were shredded in the spanker process.   At least they are snug this time

 

 

Looking at the overall rig, we must remember pictures 182-185 earlier as I had to take off the top work rigging that was all wrong.

 

202 here we see a few lose or missing shrouds yet but the essence shows we have it right this time. It is hard to see in the photo, but I have also figured out all of the yard braces that are needed to hold the yards in position

 

203 this shows the braces for the mizzen and main   

 

204 shows the braces on the foremast. I find using the fine annealed steel wire so helpful at this scale.  In larger scale we take black line and splice twice etc. here in a matter of a minute a lanyard is made with a block in it and ready to hang.

 

205 splicing dead eyes on top shrouds can be fun.  Here I figured out a use for my old cigar boxes that keep left over parts in.

 

So onward we plug

 

jon

[Jond]

post 30

 

Complete standing rigging and lower yards…..almost

 

I learned years ago that finished is a very subjective word.  I remember the 20 80 rule...we spend 20% of the time and effort to get 80% complete and then 80% of the effort to get to 100%.   Following the curve of diminishing returns, we need sometimes to say enough.

I write this post today to celebrate what I am calling a milestone. Finished standing rigging and lower yards  

 

Looking at the foretopmast ratlines in the last post, picture 204 I decided to take another step backwards.  They were awful, so I cut them all out.  I feel better about working in this small scale and it really was much easier to replace them than it was at the beginning when they were my first attempt.  

• 206 here we see the fore topmast shrouds and ratlines are gone

 

• 207 here the port side shrouds and ratlines are all back and I and tying ratlines on the starboard side . it is a little tricky with all the running lines in place.

 

• 208  one of the things I learned at this small scale is to simply get the line around a pin and add a drop of glue with a clamp to hold it tight till the glue dries .  then remove the clamp and using two tweezers tie the half hitches.

 

• 209 the main lower and top mast yard braces come back to the stern area. I like using the bumpkin as it makes sense to project those line outward.  

 

• 210 here we see all the braces snugged up and made off for the main and mizzen

 

• 211 and here we have the foremast lower and fore topmast yard braces

 

The milestone

In honor of achieving this milestone, I cleaned up my rigging desk.   I also have a new overhead LED 2x2 light that is wonderful to improve the lighting from the previous overhead LED flood light. I am also putting in a dropped ceiling that makes the whole area a lot nicer.  

• 212 here my cigar boxes are out, and the alligator arms hold the last dead eye as it gets its splice

 

• 213 shortly after this photo, the white glue dried and I lashed it into the lower dead eye completing the standing rigging.

 

• 214 here we can see the tied off yard lifts on the foremast fife rail. The braces go to the outer pin rail.   Next, I need to make up those little coils to lay over the pins

 

• 215 here we see lift lines for the main and mizzen braces on the side rails.  the pump wheels look like they need a touch of paint

 

• 216 so here we are at this stage.  There is obviously a punch list. There is always more to be done.   There are a few more ratlines, clean up, the aft skylight etc.    then I will advance to the topgallant yards and ultimately the royals

 

All for now got to go sailing

[Jond]

Post 31

 

Almost there; Practical completion:

 

I use that expression practical completion from my long career of building projects.  When one achieves practical completion, it does not mean one is done , it means we are practically complete and the project, what ever it is, works or makes what it should make, or has all its parts in place.

Today I put on the last mizzen royal yard and the last of its lines are tied down. What is not done includes all those little coils of line are not yet made and laid over the pins making the ship look much more real.   I used a little vacuum cleaner attachment to clean it up. I need to build a stand but an using the flexible one for now. In other word it works

 

All the yards are in place with lifts and braces.  That is practical limit of scope for this my first ship, and this my first 1:98 model.    I will continue along and do those missing things but for practical purposes I have taken an old thrown away model and redone it to represent something, and to tell its story.  I need to consolidate the history and make a story board.  I have been told where she was built in town and will make a small drawing of what it might have been like.  Today it is a town parking lot and a chowder restaurant. So much silt has come in over the decades on only kayaks or brings a dinghy to the shore here.

 

I will do another posting with her sitting on a stand on a shelf.   Hopefully, those little lines will be in place.  Today I want to share a few images to describe the final efforts I made, and I took her outside for a few overall photos to show where I am in this process.

 

217 just a detail shot of how after my first small scale build, I actually learned to work this small.  There are several of these assemblies. They wrap the mast then hold the yard lifts

218 here the lifts. Also behind the yard there are the braces. they include the lanyard made from black annealed steel, which could be tarred line in these early days 1853 or wire rope in the later decades.

 

Outside photo opportunity

 

 I always love moving around and moving the model around in the sunlight to try to photo all the lines.  they are easier to see out here than in the shop photos.

219 to 223

 

 

 

 

ge

neral views.  This model is a 150 ish footer, or small size merchant ship. As I am rereading Chappelle’s history book, these did not continue long in our region as shortly in the midcentury, especially after the civil war, the bigger schooners came along in this size.

 

224 to 230 are more detailed images

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

231 is a reminder. In one of the early posts we noted that the stern of the model we were restoring was too round. In the end I am fine with it because the restoration aspect of this build is key

 

232 is a bow, and yes the pun is intended.  We are practically complete.  In the next post that could be in the fall we hope a final curtain call.  Outstanding items include:

·         All those little lines

·         Stand

·         Story board for the history of where Aphrodite was built and hopefully more about Mr Sargent who reportedly built her.

·         A few missing blocks on the yards where running rigging would eventually go need to be added as well. Running rigging for the sails and sails are not in the scope of this build.

 

 

All for now

[Keith Black]

Jon, she turned out really swell. It's always nice to see a model saved from the waste bin.