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US Brig Syren 1803 by Overworked724 – Model Shipways – Scale 1:64


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5 hours ago, CPDDET said:

Screenshot_20240818_131020_AdobeAcrobat.jpg.8310bd1a621124085cb02c5c092668b7.jpg

This is a picture from the Syren pdf file on assembly and sanding blocks.

I like this version. I think the flaps on mine are still a bit too long and stiff giving rise to occasional crunching of the blocks. I’m going to shorten them and extend the sandpaper wings like this pic above. Thanks, Dave. 

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Thanks for the feedback, Dave. I modified the fins so they don’t rub the wall of the canister. Bundled 4 layers of sandpaper to extend out from the fins for a snug fit against the sides. 
 

Works MUCH better!  No grinding sound and the sanding process is much gentler. Glad I can use this thing now. 😎👍🏽

 

Final pics on this side journey. 
 

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Moving on…

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Posted (edited)

Since I have tons of rings and rigging upcoming, decided to do a personal preference experiment with regards to brass versus copper wire. Using the Jax blackener diluted 1:3 with water.  I ran a set of copper and brass rings of same dimensions through the mix. 
 

In truth…hard to say which I prefer. No chunky black oxidation fragments came off either batch. Drying, cleanliness and evenness of the blackening was consistent across both metals. I did ensure I pre-sanded the metal before shaping and dipping the rings. 
 

All in all…no winner here. I think the take away is that cutting the blackening agent and removing any preoxidized layer before blacking gives a consistent patina on either metal. Not going for black here…but a metallic sheen like gun metal. 
 

Some pics. Off to do the doors tomorrow. 🫡

 

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Moving on…to dinner. 🥘 

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Posted (edited)

Stupid tool hack. Not sure if I’m only just figuring this out and everyone else has their hack…but I’ve always struggled with my tweezers always being a bit too wide for tiny bits. It means you need to exert that tiny bit more pressure to make and maintain control of a delicate piece…which means, more often than not, that by being too gentle I reduce the needed pressure to hold onto the damned thing…and it falls out of my tweezer grip. 
 

So my hack is…dental rubber bands. I wrap a few around my tweezers to close up the jaw width and reduce the necessary pressure I need to exert on the tweezer sides to maintain a solid hold. Great hack…more control with less exertion and instability. 
 

Apologies if this was captured somewhere else in some other blog…but I felt like a genius when I figured it out. 
 

Gratuitous pics…

 

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Moving on…

 

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Got the sweep port doors done. Much happier with the redo. The hinges don’t stand proud of the brackets on the doors. I put the metal brackets on with a little bit of room to fit in the hinges. It’s a cheat, but it saves me from having to glue them on after I mount the doors on the ship. I test fitted them and all is good. The only problem is the wood is so much brighter than the wood on the ship. That’s the result of waiting so long to restart my modeling journey. I’m hoping time and some tung oil coats will age the sweep/gun port doors until they are a closer match. 
 

Here are a few photos. Sweep port doors ready to mount. I’ll probably get to them this weekend. 
 

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The block sander works great. Here’s a pic of my 2mm blocks after running them in the sander 5 min. 
 

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I still have some gun port doors to prep/paint…the journey continues. 

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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