USS CONSTITUTION by Brian Falke - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - Scale 1:96

[Brian Falke]

I have for the most part completed the interior planking.  Upon inspection I noticed that on the port side, the gun deck gun ports were 1/8" lower than the starboard gun ports.  That would be a foot which is significant difference.  First picture is the starboard side, the other, port.  The port side has 5 planks from the bottom of the spar deck gun ports to the top of the gun deck gun ports.  The starboard has 4.

 

Thankfully this was only limited to the gun ports on the aft section of the port side, 7 of them.  My dilemma was how can I move them up and would it look good.  Taking a deep breath, I cut a 1/8" section out of the top and sanded.

 

Then, I glued a 1/8" piece of oak to the bottom and sanded that smooth with the interior and exterior hull and the bottom of the gun port.

 

There, the gun port is now moved up the side by a foot, or 1/8".  Now to do the other 6...

[JSGerson]

Nice save. In your situation, I've would have handled it in the exact same manner. Out of curiosity, what kind of wood is your hull planking made of? It does present a unique visual pattern. Will it eventually be covered with a second layer of planking and/or paint and copper plate(?).

 

Jon

[Brian Falke]

2 hours ago, JSGerson said:

Nice save. In your situation, I've would have handled it in the exact same manner. Out of curiosity, what kind of wood is your hull planking made of? It does present a unique visual pattern. Will it eventually be covered with a second layer of planking and/or paint and copper plate(?).

 

Jon

Thanks Jon.  Yes, it took me a couple of weeks to come to this solution.  Just had to purchase some very fine tooth "keyhole" saw blades to accomplish.  As for the wood, it is white oak.  I am cutting, planning, and sanding each piece from stock white oak 6"x1" boards.  Yes, a lot of waste in the process, but that is what I do best...turn perfectly good pieces of lumber into saw dust  😀.   I will be painting as per the specs in the kit and will also copper plate the underwater hull.

[Brian Falke]

My next challenge after "raising" the gun ports was to square off all gun ports.  Those on the gun and spar deck.  The openings on the spar deck had a tendency to flare outward at the top of the gun port, and those on the gun deck had rounded corners and, if I tried to square the corner, it would round the side since I would put too much pressure toward forming the corner.  I knew that I needed to fill in the sides of the gun ports with plastic wood and sand them down square.  But, without a metal template, I would just be repeating what I already have.  I did find a metal template that has a 3/8" x 3/8" square and a 5/16" x 5/16" square (through Amazon) which would work perfectly to help square off the ports.

 

Using 80 grit adhesive backed sand paper strip attached to a mini-file, I would sand the side of the gun port until the sandpaper scraped the metal template.  I would then increase the grit to 220 and do the same, sanded until it scraped the metal template.  To form the corners, I used a triangle shaped file so I would not have to use extra pressure to get the file into the corner.  There are some minor touch-ups needed, but the shape is real close to being square.

 

[Brian Falke]

So....scratch all that I posted on on December 17th.  It is not working out as I had envisioned.  After checking the size of the gun port lids (.36" square) and looking at another Constitution build log, I changed course and lined the sill, header and sides with .02" planks.  This finished off the port and gave me acceptable corners.  Here is the finished port for the first one.

 

[Brian Falke]

It has been awhile since I posted an update.  The inner and outer hull is completely planked, the gunports are finished and I have started on the bow stem.  Here are pics of the finished gunports.

After completing the gunports, I pressed in between the planking a mixture of wood glue, water and fine saw dust and sanded back to smooth.  After filled in the fine spaces with wood filler and then sanded smooth again.  In the picture, you will notice the cap rail installed (just got a little ahead of myself there).

 

Satisfied with the hull I then proceeded to the stem installation.  This is where it became a little difficult.  Using the template on 16 of the instruction book, I cut out the stem and knee, sanded the knee tapering from the stem to 1/8" at the leading edge of the knee.  I then cut the slot for the bowsprit gammoning (which was not easy) and then installed the stem and knee as per the instructions.  It fit perfectly, which led me to the conclusion, the 3D printed hull form came out dang close to the plan.  The following day, after the glue dried (used wood glue to allow for minor adjustments before setting), to validate the knee and fit, I picked up in the instructions where it recommends to test fit the photoetched brass bow grating.  It did not fit well at all.

 

The edge of the grating against the hull needs to have a notch cut to fit around the stem.  If I did not cut the notch, the grating would be too high covering the access ports.  I cut a notch out of the grating edge that goes against the hull and then test fit again.  What I noticed this time is the slope of the grating (will address this next). If you look at Figure 26, Section B, you will notice that the grating is on each side of the stem, not continuous line across the section.  This indicates a notch is cut to fit around the stem.  Additionally, from the USS CONSTITUTION website, this drawing also depicts a notch in the grating around the stem.

Back to the slope of the grating, it was too great, almost to the point of being ridiculous.  Looking at the knee and comparing to the profile drawings in the book, in Marquet's and the multitude of plans from the Navy, it was too high.  If you look at Photo 9 on page 24 of the instruction book, you will notice that the knee is high.  If you were to take a straight edge and place it on the cap rail at the forward rail where the hull is cut out on the spar deck and then place the straight edge on the rail at the bow, it will then intersect just at the notch behind the top of the knee.  This is further reinforced by Figure 26 on page 48. Here is what I mean by a straight line from the railing to the notch in the aft of the knee.

 

Also, I felt it necessary to test fit the britannia metal piece for the knee, and it fits perfectly.

 

So, how much fore-aft slope is there in the grating?  There, as far as I can find, no cross-sectional drawing that show this.  Using the drawing from the museum, you will notice the slope by looking at the head against the gammoning.  Using that drawing, I estimate the slope to be approximately 11 - 12 degrees. 

 

Next steps, painting of the hull, inside and out.  After that is completed, I am going to jump a little ahead (again) and copper the underwater hull.  With the significant number of plates to adhere to the hull, that should take a good while.

 

Cheers, Brian

 

[Brian Falke]

So, I know I said that I was moving on to coppering the hull...but, a new toy (read tool) came in and just had to use it.  An airbrush.  I will admit to everyone here that I am not the best at brush painting and find it very frustrating at times.  So much so, that it will take quite a few coats for me to be satisfied.  With airbrush, it was two coats and I was extremely satisfied.  The pictures here are just primer, not the final.  I will be adding the beading (which came in yesterday) on the hull, prime them and then paint.  Then I will copper the underwater hull.

 

If you look closely, you can see black dots just below the black paint line.  Those mark the water line.  I did struggle finding a way to raise the bow 1/4" and keep the ship plumb.  I was finally able to glue together a 1/2" block and a 1/4" block with side support where the keel would snugly fit in so that the ship was plumb.  The 1/2" block was used to raise and support the bow and the 1/4" was used to raise and support the stern section. Using the hull marker that I used to mark the gun ports, I set it to 3" and marked a tick with a sharpie along the port and starboard sides.  I used the blue painters tape to get the paint lines and to prevent overspray.

 

Edited June 22 by Brian Falke

[Brian Falke]

I have seen a lot of discussion on the site concerning the rudder and the pintles.  Specifically, around the leading edge of the rudder.  The first is, should it be square as depicted on page 16 or rounded as depicted on page 19?  Also, should the pintles be "countersunk" into the leading edge of the rudder (as shown on page 19) or not?  Using the details on page 19, I have decided that the leading edge should be rounded and the pintles countersunk so that the rudder is as close as possible to the sternpost.  Using a table scroll saw I cut out the six notches for the pintle to sit in.

Since I will be coppering the hull and rudder, I am not to concerned with smoothness of the rudder.

[Brian Falke]

I have started the long and tedious process of coppering the underwater hull.  I quickly learned that patience, a steady hand, and the right tools are key in making the coppering look good.  I am using LOCTITE Extreme Glue as the adhesive.  It provides an excellent bond additionally, allows me to reposition the plate up to about 5 minutes after attaching to the hull.  I place a small drop on the hull where the plate will go and then using the stainless steel tool next to the roller I spread the glue to a thin coat.  There will be excess glue on the tool so a small cup of mineral spirits is necessary to keep the tool clean.  After spreading, I place the tool end in the cup of mineral spirits to clean (just let it sit in there).  I then attach the copper plate to the hull.  This is where a clean tool is necessary.  Using my left thumb I gently roll on to the leading edge of the copper plate to hold it steady.  Using the tool, I then press the plate down on to the hull.  After that, using the same tool, I would nudge the plate slightly into it's final position to dry.

 

After a group of plates have set for about 5 minutes, I then use the small roller to firmly press the plates onto the hull to achieve a "smooth" appearance.  I have elected to overlap the plates, so they will not be perfectly smooth.  I have just done the keel and two plates on the side.  You will notice that the sides of the plates that are attached to the keel from about mid-ships forward are not bent around the sides.  I found that trying to bend the sides upward caused the plate to shift and bend at the bottom of the keel.  Allowing the glue to dry and then bend the plate works great.  No shifting and no bending of the plate at the bottom.

 

I started at the sternpost, and following the directions in the book, I am moving forward and up.  I have placed the plates along the entire keel bottom and up the bow.  A lesson learned here.  I should have stopped coppering the keel at the point where the keel transitions to the bow stem.  The plates at the bow stem should overlap those plates that are attached to the hull.  If you imagine the ship moving through the water, the leading edge of the forward most plates on the hull need to be covered by the plates on the bow stem or they would eventually rip off the ship due to the water flow.

 

Edited June 30 by Brian Falke

[Brian Falke]

Got a question to all regarding the actual coppering on the current CONSTITUTION.  Why are the plates overlapping with the lower plate overlapping the higher plate?  If you look at the plate that was removed in the attached picture, you can clearly see the non-weathered line across the upper plates and the aft plate.  I have looked at pictures of the most recent drydocking and the plates are being installed from the waterlline down to the keel.  I am just curious.  The method in the instruction book, aft-forward, keel - waterline makes perfect sense when you envision the ship moving through the water.

[Brian Falke]

I have finally completed the coppering of the underwater hull.  I did overlap from bottom aft, to forward and then up.  After attaching all plates, I again went over the entire copper platting with the roller to ensure no corners were bent up or out.  I applied two coats of satin polyurethane.  Overall, it came out very nice.

And, for the most part the hull painting is complete as well.  I think I did that 3 times.  Just was never satisfied with the results.  My next move is to ship the rudder.  I do feel the gap for the pintels and gudgeons are too narrow.  I was able to "convince" the pintels to fit onto the rudder.  However the gudgeons is a different story.  I did read on another build log that the builder ordered smaller sized pintels and gudgeons which could be manipulated more easily to fit the rudder and sternpost.  I am taking a different approach.  If it does not work out, then I will order the smaller size.  The first picture is the gudgeon on the sternpost.  As you can see, it will not fit, too narrow thus leaving a gap where gudgeon does not meet flush with the sternpost.

I have cut the two bands that attach the gudgeon to the hull and then will attach just the gudgeon to the aft portion of the sternpost.  After the glue has cured, I intend to then attach the bands to the side of the gudgeon and the hull to appear as if it is one piece.  The blue line is where I cut the bands off of the gudgeon.  I saved them as I will be using them.

To install the gudgeons, I have them on the pintles with the rudder upside down.  I will then turn the hull upside down and then place the rudder in its proper position, clamp it, and then glue the gudgeon to the sternpost.  Once the glue has cured, remove the rudder and then attach the bands and file to appear as if it was never cut.  If this does not work, then I am back to where others were, buying the smaller pintles and gudgeons.

 

After installing the rudder, I will move onto the false keel.

 

My plan is to complete all underwater hull work and then mount the model on the pedestals to work on the interior, starting with the hold.

 

Cheers, Brian

[MrBlueJacket]

You can also cut reliefs into the sternpost and rudder.

 

Nic

[Brian Falke]

Thanks for the tip @MrBlueJacket.  I did consider that, especially after trying to glue them on with superglue, then the glue I used for the plate, then JB Weld metal glue.  I ended up attaching each gudgeon separately and while attaching one, I would detach another.  It became quite frustrating.   My last option was to use JB Weld Superweld glue.  This allowed me to patiently position the piece, then apply the glue, make any final adjustments and then with the ultraviolet light, cure the glue without disturbing the previously positioned gudgeons.

 

Here are the gudgeons without the hull bands attached yet.

 

Using the same glue, JB Weld Superweld, I attached the bands.  Here is the final.

 

Now that the rudder is attached, I have mounted the model on a temporary base with the pedestals.  I would post a picture, but embarassingly, I mounted the ship backwards.  Once I turn the ship around, will commence on the Hold and Orlop deck.

 

Cheers

[Brian Falke]

Commenced the Hold and Orlop deck.  At this point, have 5 beams for the Orlop deck and the ballast.  I found small gravel, which at scale came out to about 1' boulders.  Filling in the hold area with the grave level to the keel, I then used diluted wood glue to set them.  Next is to start with the casks (which I made using the 3D printer).

 

But, before I move onto the casks, I do need to field day the shipyard.  Getting a little out of control.

 

 

[Brian Falke]

Shipyard all clean and organized...at least to the point where I can continue working on the ship.  In the below picture, you will notice I removed a section of the ballast (blue arrow).  That was because I was using the Pook's drawings from 1849.  It had chain and shot lockers there,  So, I removed them before doing a little more research on the drawings.  Those were in preparation for Constitutions Mediterranean cruise and not representative of the Orlop deck of 1812.  So, I will have to put the ballast back in there.  Additionally, I last left off that I was moving onto the casks.  Kind of got ahead of myself there.  I stepped back and determined my next move would be to install the orlop deck beams.  That did prove challenging.  I initially had the most forward and aft beam installed.  From the aft I moved forward using Marquarot's book to measure space between the beams and height above the bilge.  The red arrows is where, using that method the beams were.  Once I installed them, I decided to validate by measuring from the top rail down.  As you can see, the Orlop deck beams were a little too high.  I removed them.  In addition to being too high, I found that I had a "wave" of sorts.  One side of a beam would be higher than the other, and this carried onto the subsequent beams.

 

The challenge I face was how to install the beams so they were level athwart ships and with the forward and after beams.  I meticulously re-did the most aft beam and the most forward beam just aft of the most forward part of the top rail.  When I had those positioned I glued two square pieces of stock (green arrows) to each beam as far to each side as possible.  This allowed me to use them as a consistent guide, level side to side and forward and aft.  The picture shows going from aft forward.  I followed the same process forward aft.