HM Cutter Sherbourne 1763 by mic-art - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build

[mic-art]

Greetings!

I have been hesitant whether to start a build log or not as I don’t want to jinx it. What if I never finish, then I will stand in shame in public instead of just hiding the object of shame on a shelf to be forgotten.

Anyway here I am and I hope to make it to the end.  This is my first build in 30 years so excuse my lack of skill and technique. 😉

I will try to recapitulate what I have done so far:

After a lot of pondering what and where to buy I finally ordered the kit from Cornwall model boats in the UK. It arrived a week later together with some tools, paints and glue. While waiting for the kit to arrive I read all Sherbourne build logs I could find to be prepared.

Upon unboxing the first thing I noticed was that the plans where big – much bigger than I have room for. Thus I decided to scan the plans and rearrange the layout so they fit on a A3 paper.

Not many problems fitting the bulkheads but I had and issue were the #4 and #5 bulkhead exceeded the false keel so I had to sand them down so they are flush with the false keel. Member AH1973 had similar issue in his build:

 

I decided to add filler blocks in bow and stern as advised by other builders. In the picture you see I had to add some more to adjust the shape of the bow. Here you see the false deck being glued.

I think I was a bit over enthusiastic bevelling the stern bulkhead.

Before I fitted the bulwarks I assembled a gun to test that the gun ports where in correct position.

Fitting of the bulwarks. As Stockholm Tar https://modelshipworld.com/profile/427-stockholm-tar/ suggested, I cut half the way though all the frames at deck level to make it easier to remove them at a later stage.

I decided to fit the keel parts after first planking.

 

First planking

Here comes a trickier part, shaping and bending planks so they sit nice, one next to the other.

I was not so successful in tapering the planks correctly, hence the ugly bow. For the second planking I must be more careful.

I experimented with stealers in the stern.

At first I tried using the brass pins that comes with the kit which didn’t work at all for me. They bent very easily and did not sit tight. Instead I use reconfigured paperclips where possible and rubber bands and pins in the ends. For the big paperclips I used popsicle sticks. (notice the USSR steel ruler with price etched in to it in the front  )

When the paperclips where to big I used rubber bands and blocks of balsa to concentrate the pressure.

Need is the mother of invention. Clamping down a thin plank in the bow where ordinary clamps just slipped.

I also bought some super strong magnets that I used in the end. Here I use wedges to ensure the planks where flush with each other. How to fit that last plank in a better manner?

First layer finished and the port(?) side rough sanded. As you can see – not a pretty planking. Looks more like clinker to me.

 

Dry fitting of the stem and keel. At this point I discovered that the keel was a couple of millimetres to short in the stern, in the juncture with the stern post. The reason I discovered, is that the notch in the false deck is smaller than the thickness of the stem. I cut recesses in the stem so it fitted better and voilà, the keel and stern post fitted!

As advised by others, I drilled the holes in the stem at this point. I drilled from both sides to avoid splinter. For measuring I used a precision compass (Rotring). 

I cut a bearding line in the stem so far.

 

Next will be gluing the keel and stem and then fit the stern counter.

 

//Mikael

[GrandpaPhil]

Looks like your build is coming along well.

[RickyGene]

Great workmanship.  Look forward to more.  I have this same kit.

Rick

[The Lazy Saint]

Hi Mic-art.

It looks like all is going well so far and l must say l am glad you decided to post a build log. This is a great way of learning and sharing knowledge. I will watch with interest, good luck.

I have just completed the second planking on my Sherbourne and l think that, providing the first planking is filled/sanded down well, the second planking is a little easier.

Best wishes as always. 

The Lazy Saint. 

[Jörgen]

Nice work and good with another Sherbourne. Good works so far and I will follow.

 

[Edwardkenway]

Mind if I sit in on this also ? Nice to see another Sherbourne  joining the fleet

[mic-art]

Hello and thanks for all the replies and support!  

Here is a small update on my slow progress.

I fitted the middle sternposts first after the first planking was sanded.

At this point I noticed that the outer stern timbers where in the wrong angle so I removed them with the help of some methylated spirit (technical alcohol in english?), which dissolved the PVA glue like a charm. Then fitted them again with the middle stern timbers as guide.

 

Next step was to plank the stern. There was a gap between transom and the planking which I covered with a bullnose batten. Would that be historically out of line?

I dry fitted the stern post to achieve a snug fit for the stern planking. I will fit it permanently after the second planking (which I am a bit afraid of)

 

I hope my writing is comprehensive as I have to learn what the parts of a ship is called, not only in english, but also in Swedish 😉

Edited August 23, 2019 by mic-art

[Jörgen]

I use the Alert book to name the things. And I have no idea what it is in Swedish:) Good job.

[The Lazy Saint]

7 hours ago, mic-art said:

Hello and thanks for all the replies and support!  

Here is a small update on my slow 

Next step was to plank the stern. There was a gap between transom and the planking which I covered with a bullnose batten. Would that be historically out of line?

 

 

Hi mic-art,

Maybe it is out of line, historically, but only if you are building a museum piece. I assume you aren't so build it the way you want, its it's you build, just enjoy.

Your first planking looks great and l am sure the second will go on just as smartly.  Well done and keep up the good work.

Best wishes as always, 

The Lazy Saint. 

[tkay11]

Nice progress. Normally the hull planks would go over the edge of the transom timbers as they would be nailed from the outside to them. However, if you are going to paint the hull, you should be able to hide the fact that they are lying on the inside of them. Even if you don't, I don't think it would be worth tearing off your planking to re-do it as it is quite neat. You can check this with some of the build logs of the Sherbourne.

 

Tony

[mic-art]

29 minutes ago, tkay11 said:

Nice progress. Normally the hull planks would go over the edge of the transom timbers as they would be nailed from the outside to them. However, if you are going to paint the hull, you should be able to hide the fact that they are lying on the inside of them. Even if you don't, I don't think it would be worth tearing off your planking to re-do it as it is quite neat. You can check this with some of the build logs of the Sherbourne.

 

Tony

Thank you for your input Tony. You are correct in that the planks would go over the edge of the transom, and it will, with the second planking. 😉

[mic-art]

On 8/23/2019 at 1:51 PM, Jörgen said:

I use the Alert book to name the things. And I have no idea what it is in Swedish:) Good job.

Hej Jörgen och tack för ditt stöd!

I suppose you mean "The Naval Cutter Alert (Anatomy of the Ship) "? 
I have ordered a used copy of "Skeppet" by Björn Landström from a second hand bookshop, I will study that to get some more in depth knowledge in the ship lingo. Meanwhile and most likely in the future too, I will rely on google.

[Jörgen]

Tack så mycket  Yes it is that book. I use it lot of making the parts to Sherbourne. I have no idea of sailing and the name on things   I can also recommend Lennart Pettersons Rigging books.

[mic-art]

Slow progress on second planking. Someone advised using 0.5 mm planks so I bought  some 5mm during our vacation in Stockholm. It is much easier to bend. I do not have any good clamps for this stage so I glue with CA glue. 

The first 4 planks was easy to fit but then it got more difficult to make planks follow smooth In the stem. I can not see how to do that correctly. Anyway I had to end the planks as in the photo. I figure the wale will cover the ugly joints.

[tkay11]

Good neat work. Very pleasurable.

 

Tony