DIY Dremel Table Saw/Router Table

[Julie Mo]

"The most expensive tools are the ones you buy cheaply and often."

 

While I usually heed the wisdom of that warning there are times when you can't afford the best tools or can't justify the expense.  I have finally realized, though I enjoy model making, I have too many irons in the fire to justify buying a Byrnes, or anything else, for that matter.  But I do want to finish this model.  Thus this DIY effort.

 

What prompted this was everything else I tried failed to produce usable planks for the ship's decks.  So I did a web search and found these plans.  Anyone who has followed my build thread knows I quickly stray from the plans.  And I held true to my tendencies.

 

After looking around the shop I realized I may be able to make this mini table saw with what I already have.  Below is a Dremel 4000, their circular saw attachment and a foot activated switch. 

I took a piece of 1/2" plywood and cut out the area for the Dremel according to the above plans.

The Dremel saw attachment has a spring loaded guard that has a lot of resistance to it so it can't be used as a table saw guard.  Even if it could be used, it's too wide if you are looking for a zero clearance slot.  This is close to the max depth you can get with the attachment.

So I had to keep the finished top as thin as possible while still allowing for sufficient strength to hold back the spring guard.  I took a 1/8" piece of masonite and adhered it to the 1/2" plywood with contact cement.

Next was making something that would hold the attachment in place.  Before I glued the masonite to the plywood, I hammered in some T-nuts to secure the brace.

Now I've got to work on the back brace.

[Julie Mo]

I shaped the top of the brace and used 1/4-20 inserts in the bottom half.  Since the Dremel lays at an angle, I took a rasp to soften the inside of the brace.

I ran dados along the bottom for 1/2" plywood supports.  None of these will be glued in for now.  It will make it easier to store.  The Dremel is pretty easy to remove when done.

Table saw half finished.  I used a universal T track for the fence rail.  The Fence is made of quartersawn maple jointed straight.  First test on some 1mm stock ripped to 3mm wide ran pretty well. 

So far, everything was made with materials I had on hand.

 

Later, I will make the other half a router table.  I think I have everything I need to finish that up, too.

[Julie Mo]

The router table modification was pretty straightforward.  Find where you want it to go, drill a hole, mount an adjustable base and let 'er rip!

 

When switching over to a routing bit, I don't think the larger hole will present any problems but I'm sure I'll find out when I try it.

The base is by StewMac.  Depth is adjustable enough to expose the full width of the Dremel sanding attachment.  I rarely use this base so it can stay with the DIY table. 

A little clearer view of the base.  The only negative is the sanding attachment is slightly larger than the V in the base, so it rubs against it when lowered.

My immediate need is to rip 1x3mm planks.  Tests show it can do that better than anything else I've tried.  Later, I'll need the router table for an idea I have.  Fingers crossed!

 

Thanks for the likes!

Julie

[Julie Mo]

Just finished ripping the padauk I had previously sanded to 1mm thickness.  This should be enough to get the deck done.

 

As the width of the pieces I was ripping narrowed, things got a little dicey.  Thus the wider strips in the photo below. 

Rating it, I'd say it does a decent enough job, especially considering the cost.  The blade doesn't cut perfectly clean edges like I'm used to on my full-size table saw.  But it only takes a few strokes with a sanding block to clean them up. 

 

Guiding the stock in requires close attention, but I suppose that's true of all wood this thin.  The fence is rock solid and the blade doesn't show any signs of vibrating, other than what's inherent in the tool.  I think the bracing held the tool pretty snug.  If I find I am using this with any frequency, I'm sure there will be some modifications in the future.

 

As for the sander, some modification is definitely necessary so as to keep the stock firm against the fence.

[SJSoane]

I have been thinking about making a router table, and just came across this post. Nice solution!

 

what size sanding sleeve hits the side of the Stewart/MacDonald mounting base? Could they be gripped further out of the chuck, getting to the other side of the mounting base plate altogether?

 

Mark

[Rach10199]

On 2/18/2020 at 10:51 AM, Julie Mo said:

"The most expensive tools are the ones you buy cheaply and often."

 

While I usually heed the wisdom of that warning there are times when you can't afford the best tools or can't justify the expense.  I have finally realized, though I enjoy model making, I have too many irons in the fire to justify buying a Byrnes, or anything else, for that matter.  But I do want to finish this model.  Thus this DIY effort.

 

What prompted this was everything else I tried failed to produce usable planks for the ship's decks.  So I did a web search and found these plans.  Anyone who has followed my build thread knows I quickly stray from the plans.  And I held true to my tendencies.

 

After looking around the shop I realized I may be able to make this mini table saw with what I already have.  Below is a Dremel 4000, their circular saw attachment and a foot activated switch. 

I took a piece of 1/2" plywood and cut out the area for the Dremel according to the above plans.

The Dremel saw attachment has a spring loaded guard that has a lot of resistance to it so it can't be used as a table saw guard.  Even if it could be used, it's too wide if you are looking for a zero clearance slot.  This is close to the max depth you can get with the attachment.

So I had to keep the finished top as thin as possible while still allowing for sufficient strength to hold back the spring guard.  I took a 1/8" piece of masonite and adhered it to the 1/2" plywood with contact cement.

Next was making something that would hold the attachment in place.  Before I glued the masonite to the plywood, I hammered in some T-nuts to secure the brace.

Now I've got to work on the back brace.

Brilliant👍