Byrne's Saw Reference (also good for other desktop hobby saws)

[kurtvd19]

Joe:

Before you do anything other than using a new blade which has always fixed any problems I have had, check with Jim B. as I am sure it was all adjusted to be 100% right on before he sent it back to you. 

I checked everything and the gauges showed all was OK.  Then I tried cutting again (same old blade) and no go.  Rechecked at all again and knew I couldn't be that far off.  Changed the blade and all was fine.  Now if I have an issue, I change the blade and back to work.

Kurt

[No Idea]

1 hour ago, Toolmaker said:

Hi Mark,

Do you have a link for a supplier of these. The company website is unclear.

Thanks

Paul

Hi Paul

 

I did post this but I must have done something wrong. Here’s the link you need but remember it does have a 22mm hole so a new  arbor would be needed but Jim can supply them. 
 

https://www.protool-ltd.co.uk/p/17569

 

Cheers Mark 

[Dziadeczek]

Years ago I learnt a neat trick from the now defunct Seaways' "Ships in scale" list, on how to finetune your small table saw (if the fence/blade is adjustable), like the PREAC saw or similar.

I believe this was posted by Phil Krol.

This should be done with the saw disconnected from power. First raise the blade to its maximum height. Then bring the fence close to the blade. Place a strip of paper in between the blade and the fence in the place where the blade rises (during the operation of the saw) from underneath the table - this place is further away from the operator. Place another strip of paper between the blade and the fence - closer to you, where the blade goes down under the table (where the actual cutting is done). Bring the fence tightly close to the blade, so that the strip closer to you, (where the blade goes down under the table) cannot be removed without tearing it. The other strip should be however removed quite easily, no tearing necessary.

Obviously, in this setup, the fence and the blade ARE NOT perfectly paralel! The extra tiny space between the blade and the fence further away from you prevents kickbacks and allows cutting done more easily, without burning the blade's edge next to the fence.

[kurtvd19]

Like Jim's saw the fence of the PREAC tapered away from the blade from the blade center line to the rear of the fence.

[mtaylor]

If you haven't seen this... 

 have a quick look.  There's a section on blades (teeth count) for different thicknesses of wood.   Very useful.  I don't have a Byrne's saw but the blade choices  of  tooth counts is invaluable, IMO.

[Jache]

Hello together,
 

can anyone tell me if I can saw 6-7mm thick brass with the Byrnes?

and if so, which saw blade is best?

thank you very much

[druxey]

I honestly don't think, even with a metal slitting blade, that trying to cut such thick brass will do your Byrnes' saw any good. You might do better to consider a jeweller's saw and cut by hand, unless you have access to an industrial strength saw. Replacing the motor or other parts, since Jim's death, would also present a problem.

[No Idea]

I wouldn’t run brass that thick through my saw. I would either cut it by hand or run it through my band saw 

[Toolmaker]

Good advice all around there. You would be asking the saw to do something it isn’t designed to do and if something went wrong you would be annoyed with yourself. It might also likely be dangerous to try.

Hacksaw, milling machine, metal bandsaw are all good options.