Twelve Apostles by jack.aubrey - De Agostini - Scale 1:100

[Sjors]

Form me also happy birthday Jack.

Enjoy your day !

 

[jack.aubrey]

Thanks Anja & Sjors, I greatly appreciate    although this year it's the 64th and I begin to think it is no more time to celebrate  . . . I'm becoming OLD  . . . and I would prefer to stop the time in a somehow  . . . Jack.

[lamarvalley]

Happy Birthday Jack

[trippwj]

Hope you have a wonderful birthday, Jack!

[yvesvidal]

Happy Birthday Jack!!

 

And no, you are not old at 64. You are simply more mature and wiser than a lot of us.

Your passions and hobbies are keeping you alive, alert, healthy and motivated. This is really what is important. A human being without goals and passions looses enthusiasm for life even if he is young. This is not your case and I am looking forward to many years of Parts Work and assembly of rare and very interesting models coming from your side.

 

Besides, you live in a beautiful part of Italy, with lots of Olive trees and olive oil which is excellent for your health and the heart.

 

So, Happy Birthday Jack and many more to come!

 

Yves

Edited July 11, 2013 by yvesvidal

[st george]

Happy Birthday Jack.

[jack.aubrey]

Thaks to everybody for your messages, I greatly appreciate your sentences, Jack.

A special mention to Yves for his fantastic message that changed my negative opinion on my birthday: not old but mature . . wonderful.

[jack.aubrey]

Monday, July 8, 2013

 

The shipyard is still closed because, although I received the seventh post parcel (the one with the issues 22-23-24-25) I'm currently too involved on the model of the Soleil Royal and I don't want to leave a job that is coming very good.

 

But the Twelve Apostles is still in my thoughts.

 

For example, when I find some time for a break on Soleil, I will color in black all over the area where in the future the gunports will be opened. I think a couple of hours of work should be enough as well as I think a simple coat of black acrylic paint will suffice.

 

Then there is to plank the deck.

 

The beechwood strips to be used were provided in two different issues and, as I expected as it has always happened in the past with other collections, the color of the two batches is quite different.

 

Those who did not had the patience to wait, now find themselves with a part of the deck, already planked, with one color and another part to be planked with another color and they have to invent something to remedy the problem. Most probably there are several solutions but here I wish to emphasize the concept that haste is a bad counselor.

 

Personally I have two options to follow.

 

The first is to cut to measure the planks to simulate the real axis of the deck which were generally long from 6 to 8 meters (at scale 1:100 from 6 or 8 cm) taking the material from the two issues and merge everything together. In this way the two colors are totally mixed giving the final result a greater realism.

 

The second is the use tanganika strips, of the same dimensions, taken from my reserve of timber. In this case, they are all equal and the problem does not arise. The strips supplied by De Agostini will be kept for future use.

 

But the real problem lies elsewhere: shall I simulate or not the caulking between a strip and the other? Until now I have always refused to do so, because I preferred to see the natural wood (see for example my Soleil Royal), but here I have to say that it is another matter and then I have to choose the option to simulate the caulking.

 

There are various solutions but I would like to try the most complex: insert between a strip and the other a dark gray, very thin, thread. . But I need to do at least one full test: the reality may differ a lot from the theory . . 

 

Sincerely, Jack.Aubrey 

[jack.aubrey]

Tuesday, July 9th, 2013

 

Yesterday, during the weekly meeting between a group of modelers, I discussed with them about this problem, presenting my idea (which mine is not) to use the thread between planks.

 

There was a modeller who had used this method for one of his models in 1:48 scale, and arguing with him, I discovered so many practical details that I definitely lost the enthusiasm for this solution.

 

The problem lies in the strips (3 x 05mm) that are to be used that do not satisfy the needs to perform this processing. I will not explain why because it would make a treaty (which I do not want to write) but in the end I was convinced that this is a good solution only if strips of a certain thickness (ideal 1.5 mm) are used.

 

Then, while we were in the meantime working collegially to mount a 12 Apostles, I did a couple of tests.

 

The best solution was to put side by side a dozen strips (in this case, lengths of 6-8cm) kept well clamped together and apply a rather dry coat of polyurethane black paint instead of the usual graphite of a pencil.

 

At the next test application on a tablet of plywood the result was pretty good. At this point it is likely I'll follow this way, except that I intend to repeat a more serious test and in addition I want to build a "tool" that allows me to hold tight to each other the strips during this delicate phase of staining.

 

Sincerely, Jack. 

[jack.aubrey]

Tuesday, July 9, 2013 - Serious test for deck planking

 

This afternoon I started by working on the Soleil Royal, but at some point I came to a standstill and I threw myself to perform a more serious simulation of the caulking of the 12 Apostles deck. I already discussed in the previous post why I came to this decision today, so I will not go back on it.

 

First I want to show you the final result of the test, made on a plywood tablet (with size of 9 x 4 cm.). I decided to use strips of 9 cm. length. Slightly long as they would mean in the real world planks of 9 meters in length, while probably are more plausible strips of 6-7cm. . . . but I don't want to go crazy using pieces so small.

 

The first photo was taken in my lab with the (photo)camera flash. . 

 

01

 

The second is in natural light on my balcony. . the color is pretty much the same so let's say that is the real color. I forget to mention I treated this prototype with oil for wood.

 

02

 

The test was not only designed to see the result but also to develop a method for massive preparation of all these 9 cm long planks. Below you see two pairs of containers for strips and the tool to cut all the strips at the same length.

 

Use of the latter is intuitive: you insert the strip to be cut in the center slot, to the end. Then with a cutter cut the strip at the end without the latch. At the end they are all the same and you spend 2-4 seconds per piece.

 

03

 

The use of the other tools is more complex: take thirty strips previously cut and put them side by side on one of the four tools shown; at this point position a second tool piece inverted and the whole is brought to forcing the strips side by side. Now you adjust the whole and you can also level them with sandpaper. Finally hold everything with clamps to keep firmly and pressed.

 

At this point apply a coat, rather dry, of polyurethane black paint, speed up the paint drying process using a hot hair dryer . . and you have practicaly finished. Now you need to separate the planks and store them for usage.

 

Simple though laborious, but the quality has a cost . . 

 

04

 

05

 

That's all for today, Jack.

 

High Resolution Images:

01 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090534.jpg

02 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090619.jpg

03 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090614.jpg

04 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090617.jpg

05 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090618.jpg

[jack.aubrey]

Saturday, July 13, 2013

 

In the first picture a group of about thirty strips, prepared with the caulking simulation, still in the "clamp", after being colored with "dark brown" paint. Once extracted the planks must be divided one by one in order to be used.

 

01

 

I started the deck planking with the first group of strips I prepared a few days ago. Then I had to stop due to lack of material ready.

 

02

 

03

 

For the moment absolutely no problems; I will keep open the holes on the deck while planking is progressing, even if I think to refine them later.

 

Sincerely, Jack.

 

High Resolution Images:

01 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090623.jpg

02 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090624.jpg

03 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090625.jpg

[Sjors]

Great progress Jack even it goes slow.

 

I have send De Agostino an E-mail to see if they are providing this one to the Netherlands.

Still no response ,so I'll wait for a little while longer and send them again an E-mail.

 

[lamarvalley]

Real nice work Jack. I like your method for staining the edges of the decking... I'll have to remember this for future builds.

[jack.aubrey]

Tuesday, July 16, 2013 - Deck planking

 

Today I continued to apply the deck planks until I completed the stock of "ready to use" strips. Then I prepared another group of strips to be able to continue tomorrow.

 

01

 

I would like to report here a problem in the prow zone. As you can see from the next image the reinforcements applied to the first bulkhead, where it joins the deck, do not follow the "sheer" of the latter thus forming a kind of bump when you apply above the plank. I do not think I've made ​​mistakes and so I think that here there is a small error in the project on the shape of the reinforcements. 

However, I don't worry too much: once the deck will be totally planked the bump will be less visible. I saw also that in this area there will be a couple of guns that should help to additionally hide this problem.

 

02

 

Cheers, Jack.Aubrey

 

High Resolution Images:

01 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090628.jpg

02 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090629.jpg

[NMBROOK]

Fantastic work Jack.It is nice to see Deagostini supplying deck planking in near scale width,instead of 5mm they have done with other small scale builds.

Kind Regards Nigel

[jack.aubrey]

Thursday, August 1, 2013 - Deck planking almost finished

 

Yesterday afternoon I 95% finished the deck planking. Today that glues is totally dry I proceeded to smooth with sandpaper (intermediate grain and subsequently finer) all the strips of the deck, to remove glue in excess and to level the whole. Needed some time and patience. . but still nothing if compared to what is coming for the hull.

 

Then I proceeded to apply a generous coat of wood oil. The color became almost immediately warmer and appealing even if what you can see in the pictures here is not the exact color due to the use of the camera flash. I have to wait until next morning to take daylight pictures outside . . but I can not tomorrow . . it will be a task for Saturday. .

 

I still have to refine the deck openings for the lower floors e masts partially covered by planks. And aft there is a small piece, covering the bowsprit, still uninstalled. 

After long days of hot weather with impossibility to dedicate my time to shipmodeling i'm too eager to show something . .

 

01

 

02

 

03

 

Cheers, Jack.Aubrey

 

High Resolution Images:

01 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090637.jpg

02 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090638.jpg

03 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090641.jpg

[jack.aubrey]

A couple of photos taken in daylight, giving a more realistic representation of the deck color.

Cheers, Jack.

 

01

 

02

 

High Resolution Images:

01 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090645.jpg

02 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090646.jpg

[Ferit]

Though my interest, I can not follow your build through your photos.

I don't know why they aren't opened...

[Sjors]

Looks great Jack,

 

Still no answer from De Agostini…..

 

[jack.aubrey]

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

 

Yes I know, I'm turning around to the real matter waiting for more favorable weather but simply I cannot apply myself too much in these days of heat . . 

 

Having finished the deck, having refined the deck openings, having painted the hull in black where required, there are now no excuses: I need to take on hands sandpaper and level the bulkheads, and then start to apply planks.

  

But before beginning to bevel the bulkheads I decided to reinforce some weak points of the hull where it takes less than a second to break them . . with relevant consequences.

 

So I reinforced the "scalmotti" (again I don't know the right english term) by fixing in their inner side a 5 x 2 strip. I used the cyano-acrylate. I used this kind of glue because when I'll need to remove this reinforcement I will be able to get successful quite easily with a simple cutter blade. Subsequently I fixed another strip sideways to the first to obtain a double reinforcement (5 x 4).

 

The photos here below show the whole.

 

Now I have no more excuses: . . . beveling and planking are the next unavoidable steps . . but only when there will be more acceptable temperatures.

 

01

 

02

 

03

 

04

 

High Definition Images:

01 http://i75.servimg.com/u/f75/12/86/14/83/p1090614.jpg

02 http://i75.servimg.com/u/f75/12/86/14/83/p1090615.jpg

03 http://i75.servimg.com/u/f75/12/86/14/83/p1090619.jpg

04 http://i75.servimg.com/u/f75/12/86/14/83/p1090617.jpg

 

 

Though my interest, I can not follow your build through your photos.

I don't know why they aren't opened...

 

ashiponthehorizon, I hope you are now successful in opening the images . . You really are the first to report me this kind of problem. Jack.

[Ferit]

Hi Jack,

The problem is going on unfortunately...

My computer uses Win8, Firefox or Chrome...

I can not see any picture, even via the links for HD images...

I think you use a different way to upload your pictures...

[WackoWolf]

I am running Win 7 and I can see them, also I am using Firefox. At one time I was have problems downloading and saving pictures but somehow fix that.

[Ferit]

I am running Win 7 and I can see them, also I am using Firefox. At one time I was have problems downloading and saving pictures but somehow fix that.

 

Maybe it occurs because of the operating system, Win8... It may show sometimes some lacks... It's needed to be updated I think...

But unfortunately I am out of following a nice build...

Edited August 9, 2013 by ashiponthehorizon

[jack.aubrey]

Yesterday I started to prepare sanding blocks with new sandpaper sheets. The ones I have used so far were built several months ago and now they no longer have the original abrasive power . . hence the decision to redo them. What I call "sandpaper" is not the simple paper that is available commercially at a cheap price but a more sophisticated product that has a much greater duration so it can be used without problems for a long time. Of course initially these blocks will be used to bevel the bulkheads.

 

Below I show my inventory of these blocks, before changing the sandpaper.

 

01

 

02

 

03

 

Cheers, Jack.Aubrey.

[jack.aubrey]

August 9th, 2013

 

I'm studying the bow with in mind the beveling of this area: the instructions are clear but there is something that does not convince me completely. . I have to meditate on it.

 

In order to provide an explanation I help myself with the images that show in detail the bow area, which as you can see is still untouched. Photo 01 and photo 02 are the same, except that on the 02 I pulled a few lines and letters for reference.

 

If we read the text and look at the pictures of the mounting instructions ranging from issue 24 to issue 30. They are pretty clear in their entirety. Above all it is clearly seen that the planks applied on the right side and left side are glued in close contact between them over the thickness of the keel, that is the element marked by the letter "A" in picture 02.

 

This makes me thinking that the element "A" must be sanded to obtain a shape similar to a very enlarged 'V', well centered on the centre line of the keel. Finally I would like to point out that since this element is 4mm thick. we dedicate 2mm. for the planks of the right side and 2mm. for those on the left. . it seems a little bit as a base for an effective bonding.

 

01

 

This leaves me really doubtful but let's continue . .

 

Let's now look at the two items marked with the letter "B". They are glued on the sides of element "A", then they strengthen it. But do not come to the same level with "A", as the reinforcement elements at the lower of the stem. They stop first at about 2-3mm . This does not make sense . . unless the element "A" should remain as it is and planks should rest just above the two "B", of course beveled with the right angle!

 

If so, the planks should lay on the elements "B" and "D". Also the element "D" will obviously have to be smoothed with the right bevel.

 

But rather than clarify my doubts, they are further complicated. . 

 

02

 

At this point, what is the objective of the pieces marked with the letter "C" ? It it unlikely that the planks should lay on these items . . they are too small with respect to the curve that the planks must necessarily assume in this area.

 

For me, the function of the elements "C" comes into play only when you reach, with the planks, the line that I drew in green, where the hull has to bend further to rest on the eight "scalmotti", left and right, which protrude from the bridge.

 

Now don't ask me what is right, I do not know, I just limited to explain my concerns and I find now that I'm writing that in another forum a user showed that the DVD, attached to issue #1, provides a different approach from the instructions . . . and this a little bit confirms my thought.

 

One last thing: in next issues we will be provided with pre-cut elements for the keel and the bow; were will lay these pieces on the bow? On planks above the element "A" ? Unlikely, most likely on the element "A", by removing part of them to obtain a gap to insert these new pieces. A nice dilemma. .

 

And finally, I have not even approached the stern!! 

 

High Resolution Images:

01 http://i75.servimg.com/u/f75/12/86/14/83/prua1212.jpg

02 http://i75.servimg.com/u/f75/12/86/14/83/prua1213.jpg

 

[yvesvidal]

Jack,

 

I would try to fill up entirely around the C parts on your picture.

 

Yves

[jack.aubrey]

Tuesday, August 20, 2013

 

I'm almost two weeks that I don't post messages on the forum. The reason is simple: these days I have not done anything, mainly due to the hot weather but also to take a break to devote to other interests.

 

However, if I have not produced anything of practical in modeling I worked in a theoretical way: I further deepened my doubts that I had previously expressed on August 9.

 

At the end, I arranged a meeting with a friend ship modeller who cooperates with those who are responsible for the publication of this partwork and receives far ahead to subscribers the building instructions of the 12 Apostles to take care of its adaptation and translation from spanish language.

 

Personally I'm still waiting for the package with the issues 26-29 and looking forward to being able to see until the issues 55-60 was very informative. Discussing with my friend we reached a conclusion quite out of the ordinary: the designer of the kit had in mind, with regard to the bow, a way of building that the modeller that is building the model (in order to prepare the instructions) didn't understand and probably did on his own . Which of the two will be right? We will see, in the meantime, let's see what awaits us looking forward.

 

Here below the same image that I used Aug. 9th to give precise references. Moreover, the remaining images were taken with the smartphone and they are not of the highest quality.  

 

01

 

As we have seen from the instructions, the planking is fastened to the keel "A", and the function of the particular "B" and "C" is pretty much useless because they are too far back to serve as a support for planks on the bow. Once applied the first planking you have then to apply the second planking and, when this task is completed, we will be asked to draw on the bow two lines showing the position of the piece "A" and we will be asked to practice a groove of 4mm width to include the piece of pre-cut plywood which constitutes the stem. . an easy job, especially for those who have not a power tool suitable for making this groove.

 

Having now seen the next future, I decided to follow my own way: the piece "A" will not be interested in the planking, which will rest on the two pieces "B". Since the pieces "C" have no effect under the green line, I decided to make sure they become useful by increasing their exposure. What I did today is visible in the three images below, where I applied the strips in front to pieces "C" to increase the size of these pieces allowing a right support for the planking. Obviously everything must be properly beveled, but the concept is to have planks resting even on the pieces "C".

 

I do not know if what I explained is clear . . if someone did not understand is free to intervene with questions.

 

Now I just have to work . . . Sincerely, Jack.

 

02

 

03

 

04

[jack.aubrey]

Jack,

I would try to fill up entirely around the C parts on your picture.

Yves

 

Hi Yves, as you can read in my previous message, I have done what you suggested . . Regards, Jack.

[riverboat]

Hi Jack... just now came across your ..

excellent build.... very interesting ship, the kit looks very impressive, will be look'n in time to time  on your progress,

 

Ciao,

Frank

Edited August 22, 2013 by riverboat

[jack.aubrey]

Wednesday August 21st, 2013

 

Today I did basically two things:

1. I prepared and successfully tested the "homemade" tool to bend the strips;
   
2. I started to sand the bulkheads, to model the bevel, but only on the left side of the hull. A preliminary activity for planking.
   

In practice, I made a bit of sawdust, impalpable but still sawdust. Now I need to finish this side aft, which I will do as soon as possible. Then I shall apply a couple of planks on this side just to see how they fit.

 

If this will satisfy me, I will start sanding also the right side in the same way of the left side and then proceed to the application of the planks on both sides.

 

Unfortunately if I do not receive from DeAgostini the parcel with issues #26-#29 so I cannot go far because I will finish soon the strips available . . 

 

Friendliness, Jack.Aubrey