modeller_masa Posted May 25, 2020 Share #1 Posted May 25, 2020 Hello. I have a picky question about lead free soldering. Today, I purchased a Revell 1:450 HMS Victory. Unfortunately, the masts in the kit are broken due to under 1.00mm thickness. I want to replace them to brass rod with soldering. The only thing I worry about soldering is a lead corrosion. https://www.navsea.navy.mil/Home/Warfare-Centers/NSWC-Carderock/Resources/Curator-of-Navy-Ship-Models/Lead-Corrosion-in-Exhibition-Ship-Models/ According to the NAVSEA, the lead corrosion is caused by lead parts. I have soldeing station and have experiences on lead free solderding. However, when I checked the compositions of the "lead free wire', I found that the wire has a very tiny lead. http://www.almit.com/dloads/Specs/leadfree/spec_kr19sh lfm48.pdf There is 0.09% of lead in the 'lead free' wire. This is a SAC (Sn, Ag, Cu) solder wire. Do you think the 0.09% of lead component will cause a lead corrosion in the future? Do you think it is considerably or strictly ok for 'Museum grade model'? I want to use the solder wire in the future if it is ok. It is scary to handle torch for silver soldering. If it is not a 'proven' issue, I'll wait for a conclusion. Thank you for reading. thibaultron, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtvd19 Posted May 25, 2020 Share #2 Posted May 25, 2020 I don't think there will be a problem with that small amount BUT there are lead free solders that are not silver solder requiring high heat. stay-brite by J W Harris Co is lead free, it blackens like silver solder and has a high silver content. I have used it and it has replaced true silver solder in all but rare cases in my shop. Nothing we do with scale models requires the strength of a true silver solder. Look at Jeweler supply outlets - there are lead free solders that are easy to work with. Kurt mtaylor, Canute, Bob Cleek and 1 other 4 Quote Kurt Van Dahm Director NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD www.thenrg.org SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS CLUBS Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago Midwest Model Shipwrights North Shore Deadeyes The Society of Model Shipwrights Butch O'Hare - IPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaddoc Posted May 25, 2020 Share #3 Posted May 25, 2020 1 hour ago, kurtvd19 said: stay-brite by J W Harris Co Kurt, you ve mentioned stay-brite before. I looked into it at the time but did not really understand how it works. Could you explain a bit more? More specifically: I presume it just needs a soldering station and not a torch? Does it need flux? Does it have gap filling capabilities or does it need to be tight fit like silver solder? Finally, what are the advantages over silver solder paste/torch? Many thanks thibaultron, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote Current projects: 21' Fisherman's Launch - plans by Howard Chapelle Completed projects: 21' Yawl Longboat - plans from the National Maritime Museum Deben 5 tonner - a Whisstock yard design 24' exploration gaff rigged ketch - a Tad Roberts design 15' knockabout sailing boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtvd19 Posted May 25, 2020 Share #4 Posted May 25, 2020 As the needed temperatures are much less a soldering iron can work if it delivers enough heat. I have used it with both a torch (that I am very comfortable with) and resistance soldering but because I have the small torch and the resistance soldering unit I haven't tried it with a soldering iron myself. It comes with a liquid flux but I usually use a common past flux - Nokorode is on the work are now. Parts must fit well it doesn't fill gaps. The advantage is that it is easier to use than a true silver solder. I have used stay-brite on parts that just wouldn't hold up to the temperature needed for silver solder. Stay-brite really works more like a common soft solder than silver solder but doesn't fill gaps. I used to silver solder everything - and I got real good at it. I had some parts I thought would possibly melt if I used a true silver solder and somebody told me about stay-brite. I tried it and it worked great. I have used paste silver solder and found it worked fine for some work but it still needs higher heat than stay-brite. Use what is easiest to use and works for the job. I wouldn't use anything but true silver solder if I was still doing radio control boats where rudder and other moving parts need a lot of strength. I defy anybody to break a good joint made with stay-brite on a static model - I sure can't put enough tension on a rigging line to break a stay-brite solder joint. Kurt Canute, mtaylor, thibaultron and 1 other 4 Quote Kurt Van Dahm Director NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD www.thenrg.org SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS CLUBS Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago Midwest Model Shipwrights North Shore Deadeyes The Society of Model Shipwrights Butch O'Hare - IPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaddoc Posted May 25, 2020 Share #5 Posted May 25, 2020 Much appreciated Kurt. Canute, mtaylor and thibaultron 3 Quote Current projects: 21' Fisherman's Launch - plans by Howard Chapelle Completed projects: 21' Yawl Longboat - plans from the National Maritime Museum Deben 5 tonner - a Whisstock yard design 24' exploration gaff rigged ketch - a Tad Roberts design 15' knockabout sailing boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Green Posted May 26, 2020 Share #6 Posted May 26, 2020 Workers in the refrigeration trade use "silver bearing solder"; ordinary lead solder with enough silver added to prevent lead corrosion. It comes coiled in a roll like ordinary solder and melts with a soldering iron. It has good gap-filling properties and it stays bright. It just occurred to me that "Stay Bright", the solder Kurt referred to (above) is the silver bearing solder I'm referring to. Canute, thibaultron and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtvd19 Posted May 26, 2020 Share #7 Posted May 26, 2020 Stay-brite is lead free. And it is as easy to use as common solder. mtaylor, thibaultron, druxey and 1 other 4 Quote Kurt Van Dahm Director NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD www.thenrg.org SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS CLUBS Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago Midwest Model Shipwrights North Shore Deadeyes The Society of Model Shipwrights Butch O'Hare - IPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allanyed Posted May 27, 2020 Share #8 Posted May 27, 2020 Many thanks for sharing this again Kurt!! I missed the earlier posts so very happy to see it come up now. Until now I would never use anything other than silver solder, but am anxious to give Star Brite a try. When you use your torch, do you just go with a softer flame than you would for silver solder? If not, I assume the danger still remains of melting the part to be soldered, which I think most of us have done on occasion. Allan thibaultron, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series. Click on http://trafalgar.tv There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time. THANK YOU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtvd19 Posted May 27, 2020 Share #9 Posted May 27, 2020 It works the same as silver soldering - just less heat. I have a Smith Little Torch so smaller flame is easy. Kurt allanyed, mtaylor, Canute and 1 other 4 Quote Kurt Van Dahm Director NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD www.thenrg.org SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS CLUBS Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago Midwest Model Shipwrights North Shore Deadeyes The Society of Model Shipwrights Butch O'Hare - IPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modeller_masa Posted May 28, 2020 Author Share #10 Posted May 28, 2020 Oops. I turned off a notification setting. Thank you for many replies! After I read replies, I gained enough confidence and got much clearer plan to replace broken masts. Thanks again to your advices! mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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