Ernestina Morrissey by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48

[Jond]

post 17

 

start the railway ‘Car’ and planking the hull

 

We are working on three areas at the same time.  This process keeps me bouncing around, which is good for me.  Also, we are putting down the wood floor in the area next to the shop now that leaf blowing is done.   

 

The hull work is slow and tedious. My inexperience with designing frames shows through as I keep scabbing on and sanding back strips. I hope it works out.  

 

• 173 here we are experimenting with strips of Poplar planking.  So far, all the wood in the model comes from one 1”x6” plank of poplar 8 feet long.   We will see if it is enough.
• 174 here we are on the first attempt of the stern area planking.  It did not work.
• 175 in the mid-section we also have the false keel added.
• 176 I share this view. It is the second attempt at the stern and it failed too. The lower two planks had to come off and go a third time. I hope I get it next time.
• 177 hopefully this third time will work. It is the next plank that turns into the propeller hole that is the tough one.  

 

The diorama

 

This work is more experimental.  We went off to Michaels, a one-hour drive north, to seek out materials, paints etc.

 

• 178 I covered the whole think with what was left of the Vallejo earth texture brown that I got for the last Pinky Schooner diorama.  On the right is a collection of new acrylics for highlighting and spray adhesive to hold on sand and stones and things, I also bought some chains to experiment with.  I have no idea what the material is, but I will try to blacken it.  There may be more procurement needed here as what I got is not long enough either. 

•  179 here have added the several highlights colors to the base as the terrain is not just dirt but a combination of sand, rocks, gravel and seaweed.   I then added spray adhesive and an application of sand and pebbles.   In this photo I am gluing down the first of the lower rails.

•  180 In this view the second rail is suspended on pins for gluing before being lowered to the base. I had masked off the run before adding sand to make the rails sit firmly.  I used normal Loctite glue to hold the ABS strips to replicate the steel plates on the rails.

 

The car

 

I needed to make up the first jig for the ten sections.  I am also experimenting on how to glue wood to ABS.

 

• 181 the car is made up of ten twelve-foot sections.  The steel [ now ABS with gray primer] spans 40 feet.   The locktite standard glue works well so far in this application.  I like it also as I can abuse it [ leave off the cap] and it still works days later.  …unlike CA.

 

•  182 here I have added planking with gray stain.   I will have debate with myself.   If I start down a rabbit hole and try to age all of this stuff, is it smart?   Much to think about.

 

All for now. Next more of the same. I need to complete the lower planking because after I add the insides, I cannot clamp though the frames.

[Jond]

Post 18

 

Bottom planking continued, more on the railway and steel delivery

 

This past week the shipyard was interrupted to put down some new flooring. I guess COVID-19 is a stimulant for home improvement. At least the room involved is planned for the model gallery.   We’ll see if I get to use it.

 

Some progress was made as well as a need to make a few decisions. I realized as I started a few weeks ago to put some deck beams and other internal framing pieces, that if I continued, I would not be able to use the through hull clamps to hold the planks.   So last posting, I showed we were out of the jig and onto a rack for bottom work. I was simultaneously working on the railway car.

Schooner:

 

• 183a &
• 183b there are two views.   As a few planks are clamped we tried out the future home.  The good part of this step is I learned now and not later that the upper rail was ½ inch too short.  Also, I was looking to see if I can come higher with planks without hurting the look inside. I think I will do one side higher than the other.

 

• 184 back to the real thing we are looking at the planking as I hope to make it.   The bottom three planks fan out to 15 inches [ 5/16” in scale].   Then there is a little complicated fitting and turning to figure out.

 

• 185 This is the end of three attempts to get the planks, their turn and twist to come out close to the real thing, and that result is all I can hope for.

 

• 186 thinking the second side would be easier, I went too fast.   The first plank I picked up was the wrong piece, and it was only ¼ inch wide when final sanding and installing.  I did not check to match the other side until now and oops. All of this had to come off and be redone to match the other side and the real thing.    

 

• 187 looking the other day at he real thing, we see the first two planks were thicker and thus are not sanded smooth on the outside. The after is a line of light and shadow.

 

• 188 here after sanding there is some line and will be a shadow on those joints.  For the experts out there, I think they are backwards but for me that is still ok.

 

Diorama:

 

• 189 in this detail it is easier to see the rails and the decision. The near side shows it on its pins for gluing down.  The far side is glued.  To be perfectly accurate I needed to install dumbbell looking rollers.  The outer wheels 3 inch [ 1/16^th in scale] and the shafts one inch or [ .020 In in scale}   I decides not to include the scale rollers but to perhaps get one from the yard to include in the display if they are willing. 

 

• 190 here we are with more assembly of the car in sections

 

• 191 now that I received my second order from Plastuct, I have the correct glue for ABS-to-ABS welding.  Now I can figure out how to assemble the ‘steel to steel’. First up is the end of the car that includes a needed splice for the last cross beam and next will be channels for the sides to weld to those beams. 

 

 

Cheers

Jon

 

 

 

[allanyed]

Hi Jon

Could  Ross or anyone else at the yard explain why the two planks are not shaved down to match the edge of the adjacent planks?   It appears that they do have gain all the way aft to match the others as if they were lap straked.   Very curious.

 

There are also some short narrow pieces five strakes up from the keel that match to a single wide strake.   Was the idea to match the hull just prior to the current rebuild or was this something the yard did on their own?   I can maybe understand it if this was configuration before the current rebuild as it may have had to do with when she was motorized  around 1926 for sailing to the Arctic for scientific studies.   

 

Allan

[Roger Pellett]

Just speculation:  The heavy lapped planks add longitudinal strength to the hull girder where it does the most good.

 

They also resist local damage to the hull in the event of a grounding or even in some cases, ice.

 

According to the WoodenBoat article she has been modified several times so presumably we don’t know if the hull was planked this way originally.

 

 

[Jond]

Allan and Roger thanks for jumping in.  I hope to get the yard's answers by the end of the week.  in the mean time as to Rogers comments.   

 

from the biography of the Schooner;

 

in 1898 she was done the way Essex builders would have done.  She had no special reinforcing and no engine.  In 1926 using George Putnam's money, new owner Bob Bartlett made two big changes.   He had the frame redone and added an engine as well as changed the fish hold to a messroom with several bunks.  He then had 1.5 inch green heart wood cladding.  The photos of the 1921 Bowdoin show how this was done for the same purpose. If one wants to model Effie for 1926-1948 that could be added.  That cladding on Bowdoin did not go all the way down to keel though, it stopped a foot or so below the waterline.

 

as a foot note, my 1924 model/diorama of Bowdoin is missing the cladding...oops

 

 

jon 

 

 

[Jond]

Allan

 

further update from the yard.  some  good news and some oops on me

 

first of all to the thicker planks

 

the two garboard planks are 5 inch thick and 4 inch thick respectively.  all other are 3 inched thick.    the two thicker planks were designed in to offset the added stress in the keel due to the 60,000 # of lead ballast.    to shave them down would reduce their cross section.  From my late 1960 classes on structures, that suits me fine as the explanation.    The fact that my shadow line shown in the photo was due to a reverse offsets, and the second side fit better, i have  sanded it off.  The model will look normal with all planks smooth. oops on me. I could have used thicker planks if i went through this before the fact.   I am only a  hobbyist, so artistic license is all mine

 

Other info I got was not so good news.  In reviewing the materials added to frame causing their colors, I learned the following.  In the rebuild all frames below the waterline were treated with added tar.   That did not come to me in the earlier discussions last summer.  The linseed oil I was told then went on all frames. I combined that info with my experience from other such treated small boats,  if exposed to sunlight linseed oil finishes go black.   The outcome is the frames above the waterline would not all be as dark as I made them using the walnut stain.     I am not darkening the outsides as they were planed and adjusted right up to the setting of the planks. tar or oil was applied just before the plank was set. 

 

The use of stealers they advised is normal where they have an inside curve typical near the rudder post. This approach somehow reduces the carving he said.  With all the computer modeling these days I assume that was all figured out well in advance.  

 

Another bit of trivia i learned two years ago watching the Bowdoin planking was that the steam time for planks in the box before setting is one hour per inch thick.  Thus those garboard planks would have been steamed for 5 hours.

 

cheers

 

 

[Jond]

Post 19

 

Start deck framing and a fun look at imaging

 

This is a fun posting as we are a mid-point and need to start thinking about the overall look of what we hope to attain.   Practically we need to get ready of upper planking as well.  We need to set enough deck beams to set the elevation of the waterway. Figure out how we go forward with the stanchions etc.

 

• 192  All the bottom level cross beams are in. and the main deck beams are going in.  I need to leave enough access to build out the lower deck frame too.

 

• 193  here the top plank is in glue up

 

• 194  here we have the first four top planks in place.

 

Just before the planking above I took some fun views.  I use these to start thinking about what activities I might want to show.  Do I want four men adding a plank, three men on deck, swinging a load on the crane?

 

• 195  maybe the next plank going on here?

 

• 196 how much decking to have in place.  Maybe the crane swinging a load of deck planks?

 

• 197  how much of the upper planking goes on.   Do I want to cut out to see inside?   What lays on the railway car?

 

• 198  do I install the rudder, have it laying there ready to go in?

 

 

Part of the review is whether to do what I am doing or not.  Currently my thoughts are to try to show a little of everything and be less accurate on the what the chronological sequence that might have shown.   They would not have the interior bulkhead framing installed early but it sure helps explain how the schooner is divided up inside.   I also have to be careful about scaffolding that will block views.

 

Lots to think about

Cheers

Jon

 

[Jond]

Post 20

 

Waterway and stanchions and railway car platform planning

 

I find as I sit here to gather my thoughts and maintain some workflow that I am suddenly working on many different things at once.   Some of what I am doing is jumping ahead to be sure that I do not get two blocked by sequence.   Example, I had left out one top whaler on the starboard side thinking I wanted a better view through the frames.   I now realize that was silly, so I luckily was still able to get it in and use the little clamps to hold it during glue up.     I am also not sure if I want to add more planking.  One side is more done than the other, I may revisit that one too but I need to decide before adding the inside lower deck and remaining deck beams. To this week’s progress.

 

Hull work

 

I feel it is important to complete the waterways and establish all those lines next.  Seeing that in this design the stanchions are not part of the extended frames but added members, I thought about different approaches.  In pictures of the real waterways, one may be amazed at the workmanship.  The waterways were mortise cut and then set down over the stanchions.   Wow, I am not that good.  My solution is to install the waterway in parts.  First the outer section is a 1/8 plank that I can bend to the curve easily.  I then use a small square file for each stanchion. First let’s look at the real thing

 

• 199  the bow.  Wow how to get this look or even close.  All the wood here is Douglas fir except the tops of the knightheads. They are the Danish Oak. The fir deck is oiled. 

 

• 200  The waterway is 15 inches in the thin areas.  I notice a slight reddish to the fir in this light. [ I will try to replicate a slight difference]. Can you imaging the care to mortice the square holes for the stanchions!   Here also we see the cap rails.  They have mortises with roughly 4”x4” tenons and the are bent to fit as they are three inches thick.  Again I say wow    

 

• 201  this view is to indicate the widening of the waterway for the ends of each plank.  That means wider than 15 inches.  That means I need to either bend a piece greater than 3/16” or make the inside in two more pieces.  We’ll see what happens.

 

• 202  here I am gluing on the outer peace of the waterway

 

• 203  here we see looking across to the starboard side the outer piece of the waterway.  Looking down one sees only one of two gray clamps installed. I had thought earlier to leave this off for better views but have decided to install it.

 

• 204  here I am gluing in the first stanchions

 

• 205  in this view the waterway and the stanchions are in and stained with gunstock to show the redder color than the golden hue of the oiled oak.  I think it is too much difference and will not try to tone it down. 

 

• 206  here is the outside view.     The missing clamp on the far side is also seen here as I installed it this week as well

 

Diorama

More planning than physical progress.  I need to figure out how to build the railway platforms that are canted out as about 5 degrees.  I also have several items to preassemble. 

• 207  here I have ripped some 5/4 stock at 5 degrees and then screwed on a scrap piece of plywood to form a potential backboard

 

• 208  here I am starting to assemble the columns. I have placed them where they will go to start thinking about how to make the platform.  The results were to write up another order for more ABS model steel angles to better make the upper platform.   

 

 

Up next is a need to figure out a plan to use the ABS members to construct the railway car platforms, so that if the process does not work out, I will still have time to think of alternative means and methods. Also do I build the car off the diorama and then take it in for placement, or do i build everything in place?    stay tuned.

 

jon 

 

Cheers  

[Jond]

post 21

 

I solved my plan for ABS structure and started interior work on the hull.

 

Christmas week always knocks us off schedule. This year was no different. After the last posting, I decided to build the car in place and make it secure.  I will then somehow get the ABS structure built and set-in place once.{ I hope]  So, for the holiday pictures we made a little progress

 

• 209  here we see the combined project. The car is now pinned in place and the final sections are being planked. 

 

• 210  here is a fun view of the hull with the crew.

 

• 211  here is one of my presents to myself.  I took the time over Christmas to master the art of stacking photos so I can get the whole schooner in focus

 

 

Now to work on the ABS steel structure.  I have now made three orders to Plastruct and I probably will need a fourth.  I started over sizing members and now think I have the right combination.  I also figured out how to connect pieces.  It is just like soldering…..so

• 212  here I have taken over the soldering bay to preassemble the little pieces of plastic.

 

• 213  they have to be held together and then solvent glue applied to “weld” them together. 

 

• 214 up in the air can be an experiment in clamps.

 

• 215 here I have rearranged the jig.  It is laid back at 5 degrees for the cant.

 

• 216  here is my solution to the problem.  The ¾ strip is held by through bolts to be snug to hold things in place.  I plan to build out the side assemble and then take it to the garage for spray paint.    More later

 

The hull

 

• 217 Here in a stacked photo, we actually can see some progress on the interior hull work.   This shot shows what I meant earlier when I clarified I will try to do enough of the framing to better explain the make up of the schooner and not stick to a more authentic sequence or better said snapshot.    At a time, when a lot of planking is still not installed, the bulked framing in this photo would not have been in place.  

 

• 218 in this photo, the Sampson post is in and I am aligning the deck beams that will get inserted supports for the windless.  I am working both the lower deck and the top deck at the same time. I found if I run through the lower deck, when I drop in a post, it does not always hit the lower beams just right, and I may need to remove and adjust. Anyway, I am making this part up as I go. On the far side of the photo the bulwarks are in place on the port side. 

 

 

 

All for today 

[Richvee]

Instead of flooding your inbox with likes, I’ll just say I’m really enjoying following this build. Amazing work. 

[Jond]

Rich

 

good to hear from you.  I still have my two whalers started from a few years back when you were my source for tips on the Kate Cory  They are still on hold.  They will become brigs built in Boothbay eventually  using matched sizes from the Kate Cory hulls

 

cheers

 

 

.  

[Jond]

Post 22

 

Continued work below deck

 

The next few posts will include elements where I take some information from the real schooner and attempt to represent that image in the model. As I am always learning, some try’s will work out and some will leave opportunity for future learning....

 

First, where are we at the beginning of 2021?   We have about four months left till show time, so pressure will begin to build.  

 

Beginning of 2021.   We are still in the covid bubble.

 

• 219  here we see bulwarks recently added on the port side and stanchions going in to starboard.  The white styrene handrails on the steel structure are on hold waiting for more ABS material that needs to go in first.
• 220  looking down we see the new lower deck framing started.  Laugh at me as it is all 3x 9 inch joists.  [ oops for later]

 

• 221  looking forward we see some main deck added elements like the windless supports, mast partners and a few more beams

 

• 222  Here is our year beginning  stacked, blurred, cropped etc. photo. Unfortunately I was not aware our crew member was napping on the job.

 

Below deck study. I have collected here a group of photos from which I am basing the work below deck.  Little of this detail would be here before all planking and decking were in place.  

 

• 223  here is an image into the captains cabin showing two tanks below the lower deck.  I also like the construction ladder.  This area is a bunk room for added adventurers

 

•  224  here we see the engine room under way before arrival of the engine

 

•  225  here is an underdeck tank in the engine room.

 

226a  here is a detail that is a ‘bridge too far for’ me at least.  Note that some of the deck beams are perhaps 2 or 3 inches thinner than the others and have shims.  The nominal beams from the 2006  drawings  are 9 inches and all of mine represent that dimension.   Also tucked behind on top of the shelf is a 6-inch-deep fore and aft beam that must beef up the edge of the water way where planks end in between beams.  This area is open and allows circulation of air to keep out the moisture from condensation that would cause rot.

 

• 226b     here on deck we see where the fasteners go though along the edge of the waterway.  I went below to figure out what they attached to and figured out the beam.  Fortunately, the model does not need them.

 

•  227  here we are in the galley looking forward, and can see my oops.   I need to change the framing. It is clearly 3 by 6 [ I first installed 3 by 9 ] That correction will help where I am squeezing in a tank underneath. I also need to prepare any readers that the clean sharpness in the forms of the framing due to the workmanship of the real thing are not carried through in my work....sorry

 

•  227b  I added this photo where we can see the design.  The area between the stringers will be filled in with perforated bead board.  The air flow then is continuous to keep things dry.  The bulkheads are all insulated and sealed off.  to the left side of this photo is the captains cabin, and to the right side is the hold.

 

•  227c  I add this photo as it shows the completed assembly. This is in the foc’sle.  Note the holes in the bead board filler panels

 

 

  Model progress

 

I see in my attempt to document this work I need to find a way to photograph inside.   Then I could show each section and make it part of the story board.    On the other hand, my workmanship is better viewed from away.

 

• 228  Looking though the deck frame we can see I added a shaft and engine mounts. The framing will make the engine location clear.  

 

• 229  here is the little tank. 

 

• 230  Here is the start on other tanks in the hold area. I will not get all the right tanks in the right places but will try to represent the design in this build to have them there.  Example, I doubt there was complete holding tanks that new work will require. the old design had water tanks above the lower deck.

 

Looking forward

 

Model

 

I need to get more of the insides completed so I can decide if I plan to add any more planking.  I then need to consider how to finish the planking.  Ditto for any decking.  I am thinking that below deck I may have some started but the look through is I believe important.

 

Diorama

 

 I look for missing ABS structural shapes that will let me get past the building of the frame on the car and then set the model on the car to begin adding the movable stands. I have chain now and need to get it blackened and set. There is also a dock to build on the port side. I have worked out the angles etc. and will get into that soon.

 

All for now

Edited January 8, 2021 by Jond
typos

[allanyed]

I truly envy you having access to the inner most parts of Ernestina.   It would almost be worth spending a winter in the frigid tundra of Maine!!

Allan

[Jond]

Alan

I was able to go today as the work was off for Friday.  it was 22 degrees and a little icey but I got some great information.   I will be including some of it in the next post as I found a few things i was doing wrong and few more differences in this new design. I also saw you model and will post the photo in your log

 

cheers 

[Jond]

Post 23

 

Sometimes we get ahead of ourselves.

 

I was able to get to the yard last week as it was not a workday.  I went through many things and learned a lot more.  It should not be surprising that not having been there for a while I got ahead of myself on a few details.  Oops we say that is why they invented saws and chisels

 

What I missed of note is that there is a step in the lower deck directly under the main deck step. fortunately it is too slight to really notice so i shall just declare it to be an oops.   I also mis labeled an earlier photo of tanks [ I just edited it in the last post] and now I will fix the tanks.  I also learned there are three materials, stainless, fiberglass which has a green tint and a white painted different plastic for gray water.  I will now go through and make a few changes.  I will also declare that I will not have all the tanks in exactly the  right place as i do not have drawings, only my memory.  There are many of them and even today they are not all there yet.

 

I saw more about what was completed in the Cape Verde rebuild of the 1980’s.  I will make the pieces, as I learn about them, stand out somehow. Typically is means dark stain on wood and already painted on painted parts.  A little Progress as I got diverted back to my old Bluenose schooner sails that were never completed.   i will post that when done on that log some time in the spring .

 

• 231  here we see below the old Cape Verde 1980 rebuilt Sampson post

 

• 232  Here on deck we see both the Sampson post and the windlass is to be refurbished and saved  

 

• 233   underside view of mast partners show 6 inch thick and Douglas fir

 

• 234  for this stage I have painted the top white and stained the lower section walnut to identify this as being salvaged.

 

•  235  here I am starting the inside half of the waterway

 

• 236  I lay down a section and mark the stanchions and then cut and file the notch off the boat. The combined width reflects 12 inches. It is not enough for all the “sawtooth” projections to receive the planks.   More on that subject later

 

• 237  here we see that the lower bow stem piece also survives from the 1980-85 Cape Verde rebuild. It was quite dark at this stage reflecting its age. 

 

• 287  I have stained this section to reflect the old wood. 

 

•  239  here is the aft bitts that are staying with us also from Cape Verde

 

•  240  here I have stained the bitts dark to standout as Cape Verde components. they came out too dark so more on that to come.  Now that the waterways are in place, I am better able to dress up the deck beams to fair them out. They will all get sanded and restrained soon.  In this view I am starting the aft rail. I want to get this main cap rail on, complete the waterways and then think about what decking I might do as I deal with the un trimmed [ nibbed] waterway

 

There is a lot more inside that i have gotten done. it is hard to photo. I need to figure out how far to go.   I am thinking to leave out most of the lower decking to allow views of the inside frames, but will need to do something.  Maybe next time. Also, the missing ABS just came in.  I will get back into the railway too. 

 

All for now

[Jim Lad]

Still coming along very nicely, mate!

 

John

[Jond]

thanks John

always a pleasure for peoples encouraging comments. Suggestions are always welcome too!

 

cheers 

[Jond]

Post 24

 

Steel work coming along and a need to plan docks.

 

Every day that I can work on this project I have been adding more and more inside. I believe in another week or so I can stop. In the meantime, I need to finish the basic hull construction, so that I can finalize the finishing process.  The railway could either stay simple or become a real rabbit hole.  I am going through the process and will share my thought process.

 

The hull

 

• 241  this shot is intended to give a progress view of what the innards will look like. I have a dozen or so more lower deck beams to install and then decide what to do about its decking. After that phase I will complete the main deck beams.
• 242   this photo shows the build out of the lower deck.  The deck beams are often removable, and all of the panels of marine plywood can come up.   Here we see a waste tank.  There is still 60,000 pounds of lead ballast to be placed, and access to below decks will be continuous.  There will be fir decking over these panels at the very end of the construction.   In some earlier photos we saw plywood laid out for working platforms during the construction.  What I will try is to place a few sheets to reflect that purpose and temporary construction planking to support a few construction ladders. 

 

• 243   I have laid out the first cap rail and will be fitting it next, as soon as all the waterways are in.   I have started with the transom area and that also shows in the following photos.   I hope to clean that up for next time.

 

The diorama

 

Lots of progress this week. The first stage was humorous.

 

• 244  I upgraded my blackening equipment this year to include the little slow cooker for better temperature while pickling.   I then went to Michaels and Joann’s and bought several sizes of chain.  What I found was a mystery material from china.  I tried it even though it was magnetic, and to no surprise it did not work.   I did get some form of coating off because after the whole process including the blackening process it was quite bright.

 

Off to the garage we went for spray paint with auto primer. That worked nicely and then I am using a combination of artist acrylic to simulate the variety of colors.  Rust, slime seaweed paint spills etc.

• 245  also off to the garage to spray out the ABS steel frame. I am happy with it, but I ran out and the next can is a different shade of gray…….oops

 

• 246  here we see ABS gray steel, painted chain and the beginnings of simulated concrete.

Next up is the blocking.

 

• 247  here is the most complicated one.  It will surely go in last.

 

Overview

• 248  here we are sitting on new blocking with the second side [ north] steel frame being assembled.  I added to the photo where I need to decide if I am going to build the dock,  I think I will at this point

 

• 249  here we are looking from the west end. The transom is coming along. It is clearly the most difficult part.  The chain and track and soil at this end will need more painting and seaweed. Again, I show the dock that I plan to try to do.

 

• 250  this drawing shows my figuring out how to make the slopes work to fit the dock to the railway properly.  I have several photos and believe I can get it right. I must slope the existing diorama about 5/8” one end, so the red slope fits a level dock.

 

All for now

Edited January 22, 2021 by Jond
correction on last photo

[Jond]

Post 25

 

How to finish the outside

 

Now the cap rail is going on, I need to figure out the final finish for the exterior planking vs. frames etc.   First up, let’s get that cap rail done.

 

• 251   I continue to use milled poplar for this build.  The rail is marked and cut out of ¾ inch strips

 

• 252  The mid-section includes the pin rail for the main mast.

 

• 253  here all rail sections are on and ready for shaping. I used this process also to build out the fan tail.

 

• 254  at this point, I feel we are starting to look like a schooner. The rail makes so much difference. 

 

Now how to finish, and what to show

 

• 255  here I tested an attempt to drill and plug holes for trunnions on the left column.  No good and too big and way too much work for the result.  The second frame to the right is simple, smaller holes drilled and rubbed over with stain to fill the holes. Some sawdust was included.   This is the way for me and now  let’s get it on.

 

• 256  on this attempt of the lower planks, I tried applying shellac to better fill up the holes.

 

• 257  in this view I only used the golden stain and I like the results more.  It is a subtle indication of trunnels.  I was lucky to have earlier images, previously posted, showing the pattern.

 

• 258  here I have drilled, resanded and restrained the starboard side. This view from aft also shows the transom upper half now planked as well.

 

• 259  this view from the bow.  Note I have fit a bowsprit to help complete the bow.

 

• 260a   here in 2 stacked photos, the whole set up is clearer.  One can also see progress on the port side steel structure for the railway.

 

• 260 b

 

 

Next up more railway progress

 

Cheers

Edited January 28, 2021 by Jond
typos

[allanyed]

Jon,

Will there be a boom buffer on her rebuild?   Pain in the neck to make and install and bigger pain to get the rings and block installed and the line rove.    Continuing to love the diorama!!!  

Allan

[Jim Lad]

She really is looking first class, Jon.

 

John

[Jond]

thanks John   

 

Allan

 

here is the buffer. I am very happy you are doing it.  I am modeling pre paint, so I think home free without deck furniture. the railway is definitely adding more scope though.   I went back up on deck  to see if they have a horse.  that would mean to my understanding that after back and forth to the buffer they come down to a horse to feed the port side bitt. I did not find one.  To be fair to the yard, they are still waiting on the rigging design.  new masts etc.   

 

also my visits need to be delayed a bit.

 

cheers

 

[Jond]

Post 26

 

Progress on top rails and deck level

 

I am celebrating another small milestone this week. I completed the cap rails   yippee. 

 

• 262   Here we are gluing in the outer band of the monkey rail.  I had some scrap 1/32” on the outside resting above the lower cap rail to maintain the right shape and recess…. The outer edge of the two rails match up. 

 

• 263   here we are gluing in the inner band of the monkey rail.  Two each 1/16” bands give us the 6 inch in scale rail. 

 

• 264   looking better. Now to do the cap rail. It is narrower but more difficult as it rounds to the main cap rail.

 

• 265   here I took a piece of maple and started carving.  it is a true trial and error approach for me.

 

• 266   here we are carved, and it is time to split it on the table saw for two pieces.

 

• 267   here is the port side from the outside.

 

• 268   here is the starboard side from inside

 

Now what comes next and what needs more thought

 

• 269   in this view of the stern, I have placed a king plank. I plan to use maple for planking just to have some visual difference.  Before I decide where to put decking, I need to build up curbs for the hatches, and things that interrupt the decking.   I stared with the captain cabin and am now working my way around.  I used a duller cherry stain only on the bulwarks again to show they are different wood. They are all Douglas fir as I understand it.   So is the deck but it gets a very dark treatment eventually

 

• 270  here we see the bow section.  I have drilled the hawse holes and set up for the bow sprit.  There is a king plank sitting there but ai am unlikely to use.  The old drawings show no king plank and the photos I have show none. I am just used to them.  the phot of the new deck clearly shows the stern to have none.    Also, two planks in the middle fit nicely against he Sampson post.   Sounds like a tail wagging the dog but something will be done. if i mount the prop bowsprit no-one can tell anyway.

 

• 271  this shot was last Friday just laying out my supply of beams to see if I was ready to attack the main deck.  I also had just installed the last few lower deck beams so that area is complete less construction planking and ladders. there is progress below on the dock as well.

 

•  272   this is todays celebration. Other than the steering gear rig, which is in fabrication, the after-deck framing is complete. I have cut out the curbs [ kerbs] for the next hatch and they are in for painting white like the captain’s cabin curb. The plan above shows I have used the 2006 measured drawings as the basis.  The were no noticeable differences going through the current rebuild so we should be OK.

 

Next up I will continue forward on the deck frame and building of the diorama dock

 

cheers

[Jond]

Post 27

 

Diorama update on the dock and boat stands

 

This posting records progress on the railway.  I also want to share some more images of what the real equipment looks like and then my approach to replicate it in miniature.  There is also a sequence issue that I will share below. What I want the observer to learn from seeing the diorama is how the railway works.  First up is some progress.

 

• 273    in this view the building of the structural steel towers has progressed to painting and has gone from the table.  I have started the dock.

• 274   as we start building the dock toward the harbor, the railway car deck is 2-3 feet above the dock. The piling starts somewhere under here.  

• 275    as I work south, I need to make the piling reasonably realistic as one can see through from the side.  I can promise this task is another rabbit hole.

• 276a   at the top end I need to both close in the ugly side of the diorama for paint out and thought it would be good to show the front of the winch hose that pulls the chain.

• 276 b   here is an image of the scene. The large 10-inch chain goes in and out around a windlass to pull the car either way.

 

•  276 c   here we are with siding etc. I will add the sign

 

Ship stands are quite unique, and I want to represent them the best I can.  The phasing issue is that while frames and exterior planking is underway, these stands are not in place. They go in after planking. I feel though the system is important, and I will explain it below.

 

 

• 277   here is a complete stand. In this build there are ten of them engaged.  The system allows for 8, a pair at each of the main columns in the structural.

• 278    here you can see the tabs that ride on the edge of the floor plank.  The forward uphill stand connected to a chain that passes through the box sheave and runs on the near side of the beam across the car to the exterior.  the chain on the far side of the beam connect to the outer corner of the block.  These chains pull either toward or away from the ship [ schooner tug or other vessel when the car is in the harbor to either grab a vessel when hauling or loosen a vessel at launch.

• 279  here is a better view of the chain that pulls the stand inward.

• 280   on the outer edge of the car, the continuous chain feeds through two more blocks and upward to the platform.

• 281  on the platform there is chain fall rig that grabs the chain and with a handle, when operated, allows a man to move the stands in or out accordingly.

• 282  in this view one can see that all 8 columns are set up this way.

 

 

Now how to model this system …another rabbit hole. To do all eight that means 16 times 20 inches of chain. 64 blocks and attachment to ABS plastic steel.  No soldering. I will go as far as I can reasonably…. we’ll see. I started by buying 20 feet of chain and raiding the last of alloy blocks from my Bluejacket stores.    I will do at least the 5 engaged stands …again we will see what that looks like

 

• 283    here we see the second side of structure just back from painting.  I figured out how to do three blocks attached to ABS and thread the tiny chain. 

 

• 284   here I am trying to make the blocks to go at the car level out of ABS plastic so I can weld them in place.    

 

• 284   here I have placed the bottom component of the stand where they go and laid out a 20-inch section of chain. The only way I can see to attach 42 link chain is glue.  I made an eye that clearly too big so more work there.  

 

 

I think it is important to tell a s tory about this 700ton-railway car. It has been here in some form since 1869.   The history of the railway is being studied for exhibition by the yard and that is exciting too.

 

I probably should make one stand at a 1:12 scale as part of a side exhibit. More to think about.

 

All for now

[Jond]

Post 28

 

Progress on deck and the engine room hatch rebuild

 

This post records one of the challenges of building a model without proper drawings.   The park service drawings for Ernestina were based on field measurements made in 2008 ish.  The 2016 redesign and rebuild has many subtle changes.   I am dependent on my observations and photos to pick them up.  

 

Recently I was asked for information regarding the pumps.  I posted the photo below on Allanyed's site without much thought, as I am not building out all the deck furnishings.    Now that I progressed as far as I have with the framing and deck beams, I started adding deck. I found something that did not make sense.  

 

• 286    This view shows the new pump on the rebuild in a space between the main fife rail and hold hatch that is clearly as big as the fife rail.  Let’s call it 4 feet.

• 287   This view shows the engine room hatch/ dog house being almost square.

• 288   This view shows what I built that clearly reflects the drawings.  The hatch is big and comes forward to the major deck beam just aft of the main mast.   This configuration may agree with the drawings but clearly not the photos of the new build. 

 

I was lucky to get to the yard and learned that I not only did the hatch wrong, but the lower bulkhead should also be one beam aft of what I built, again as I built to the old drawing.  I need now to dismantle and rebuild the hatch and bulkhead.  That will also free up space between the major deck beams for the pumps and reflect the new build.

  

289    this view shows the deck plan with a red line where the forward extent of the hatch needs to be located The reduced size of the hatch  would give room and clearance through the structure for the pump as well. 

 

• 290   This closeup shows the bulkhead below that needs to be moved aft one frame.

 

• 291   Here I have made a new deck beam.

 

• 292   In this view I have removed much of the lower deck frame and bulkhead. I may be able to reuse most of these pieces in the rework.

 

• 293  Here we are all rebuilt and the deck  recut and placed.

 

• 294   Here we are a few days later where we wanted to be.  The decking around the hatch is being glued down.

 

• 295   I wanted to share this view of the real hatch construction.  The hatch curbs are painted white. The unfinished wood is the buildup of the doghouse that as of now I am not building.  I may rethink this later.

 

Well, I lost some time. Checking things twice pays off.  Fortunately the rework was not too taxing.

 

All for now

[Jond]

Post 29

 

 More detail progress on deck and the dock gets built

 

The schooner deck is coming along, and the dock is now completely installed and ready for saltwater impacts like tide markings.  I am getting ready to install the first steel structure on the railway car. 

 

The schooner

 

• 296   here we see the detail of the planning on the transom.

 

• 297   here is my attempt to replicate it

 

• 298   Here is the wheel gear box and access hatch

 

• 299   here is my attempt to replicate it

 

• 300   this view from the aft side. 

 

• 301  My next question is how, if at all, do I finish the wood. There are various stains and that could be enough.  I often used either wipe on poly of tongue oil in the past.  Once I do either there is no more ability to fuss with coloring etc.   the decking is unfinished maple at the moment, and it needs something just to stay clean and to be cleanable in the future.  I also must decide how much deck to install.   There is no right answer I believe to that question, so I will see where it goes.   I want to complete enough in the bow to show the two lazarette hatches. I need to get the scuppers in soon too. 

 

The dock

 

• 302  this work on the dock needs to realistic enough to make sense but not take over as to the subject.  I hope what I doing here works.

 

• 303  as we move past the railway, the dock does stop for a bay and then continue out into the harbor with another building.  I hope the sing sting of piles works.

 

• 304  here I started to show the low tide makings on the piles. I also hope the handrail will help explain this line is the end of a dock that makes up the shipyard. We will need to have an over view phot top make that more clear.

• 
  
• 305   coming up soon I need to get into the seaweed and other things to help make the shoreline more realistic. That is actually fun as I have to invent my way through the stage and hope it all works.

 

Next up I need to complete the fore deck framing and get into decking. Then I need to set the first steel frame and platform and work on chains.

[Jond]

Post 30

 

Setting the first steel platform

 

Saturday was exciting, as I took the plunge and set the first dockside platform.

 

• 306    here I have laid down the assembled platform and attached all eight of the small chains assemblies to operate the stands.

 

• 307   one subtlety in this photo for my record is that the platform I am raising is actually for the other side.  Can you believe it!!!  I figured it out only minutes after gluing it in place…..I will explain below

 

• 308   here we are with the ABS welding hopefully going to hold

 

• 309   I had to set Ernestina on the railway to see the impact

 

Here are three fun views of what is coming along

 

• 310   the bow over the dock

 

• 311   the stern over the dock

 

• 312    the stern over water

 

Now to the next steps of work

 

• 313    here on deck I have started making 7 figures from an army tank model kit. I shaved off their hats.  We’ll see what type scenes to make.

 

• 314   here the access planks are being placed, the ladder was placed only for measurement.  The two ladders will be hanged on the dockside of the steel platform columns.  Here also for the last time the horizontal steel member in the first bay.  It was supposed to be on the water end bay.   Oops    I mistakenly switched them. so now I must take out this member and place one like it at the far end. 

 

• 315   here is an early view of the stand set up with the chains.  , the real ones are dirty galvanized.   I plan to leave these now as visible copper just make them stand out.  One humorous reason is they are the most expensive thing I have had to buy for this build. 

 

All for now

[Jond]

Post 31

  

Stands chain and work crew

 

I believe that telling the story of the railway and how it works is a key part of this build. It has been here and active for 150 years and quite a marvel.  In normal years there are many different large yachts, tugs, science boats and schooners that come up for underwater work.   For the past 5 plus years the yard has been fully dedicated to this re build of Ernestina and that is what we are trying to show.

 

Stands

 

For the full story one needs to go back to photos 144 and 145 to see the stands engaged against the hull when Ernestina was hauled.  Once the planking and framing was removed and the hull rebuilt, the stands needed to be rebuilt to facilitate launching.

• 316   here is a new built-up stand that supports the hull after the planking is done.   At this point all the painting is done and the stands are in position ready for launch.  There are five of the eight on each side engaged. The chains on the deck allow the stand to be pulled away from the hull after the schooner is in the water and started to float free.

• 317   here we see at the aft end the base is in place.  there is a 6x6 post beyond.  This view of the base  is how I plan to show the five active units because before completing planking poles were used and continuously relocated to allow planking. Those bases at the extreme ends were laid aside to allow better access.    

 

Chains and tide

 

• 318  In this view we are need a low tide.  We can see the red buoys marking the end of the railway.  The dock in this view is shown on the edge of the diorama to help orient the viewer.  See the tide marking on the piling. We have 9–10-foot tides in the harbor.

• 319   here is a closeup of the chains laying out into the harbor.  The large chain does not go all the way out.  The smaller chain is hooked to it and rounds a sheave underwater.  

• 320   here the smaller chain hooks into the railway car about 2/3 the way forward. Is is used to pull the car down the slope into the water at launch.  The bigger chain continues up and into the windlass for hauling either out or in and connects to the front to the car. Note the large amount of seaweed even this far up the railway.

• 321  here I have connected the smaller chain to the car.  One of the work crew decided to check it out.

• 322    this view is a typical near high tide.  The water came in and up to the deck of the railway most tides.  I debated what to do and deferred to the easier low tide approach.

 

The work crew arrives

 

• 323    I went to eBay and found a model kit of 9 German army tank workman and thought to give it a try.  I filed off their soft hats and roughed up some of their uniforms before painting.

• 324   I think I want to show a bunch of them working on the hull planking.  It was funny as the loose schooner kept sliding and knocking the guys down.  I need to fix that oops.

• 325   here is the planking crew

• 326   here is the decking crew

 

• 327    Here we see both, and the new black pained trim around the diorama.

 

Next up

 

I realize I need to set the schooner on the railway permanently.  That means any work needing to apply force needs to be done.  Therefore, by next week. work on the schooner per say will be wrapped up and the remainder will focus on details and the overall story of rebuilding.  Finally, I need to complete the diorama parts, painting and seaweed etc.

Edited February 22, 2021 by Jond
typos

[Jond]

Post 32

 

the end..... sort of

 

It seems when we get to the end of a project it is more subjective than definitive.   There is always more detail we could add.   Anyway, I think we are there.  Below I have a bunch of photos to capture the completed diorama before it disappears under a case.  

 

First up are four view from the 4 quarters

 

 

• 328  

• 329  

• 330  

• 331  

 

Now three pictures of the crew

 

• 332  

• 333   I added a few jacks to hold the new plank

• 334  

 

Now six views of the hull

• 335  

• 336  

• 337  

• 338  

• 339  

• 340  

 

Three looking down at the decks

• 341  

• 342  

• 343  

 

 

And one for the chain windless shack.   Oops I need to add a building 3 sign.

• 344  

 

In the next month I will get a glass case…I think and then we’ll see where she goes

 

Thus it is the next posting that will say finished

 

Cheers

 

Jon

 

[Jim Lad]

That's turned out really well, Jon.  Congratulations.

 

John