US Brig Syren by Redshadowrider - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build

[WalrusGuy]

Ahh yeah a lot of this stuff is optical illusion. There are some points in my build where I thought planks were not symmetric/same lengths etc and after triple checking measurements, it all came down to being tricked by optical illusion 😁

Edited November 10, 2020 by WalrusGuy

[Redshadowrider]

I had visions of counting planks and being off one row of planks, one plank on one side being the wrong size for the wale....and on and on.  Since I used CA for the glue, I was not looking forward to fixing it.  But, if this does it, I dodged a non-existent bullet.  😀  scary thoughts.

[Redshadowrider]

What to do, what to do?   

As you can see from the picture, the exact curve of the transom is not exactly a match to the plank on the counter.  My question is do I just shape the transom to match the plank, or modify the plank to match the curve?  My thought is that it is much easier to match the transom to the planking, and I don't think it will throw anything off, but before I do, I thought I should ask.

 

I was able to get the lintels and sills on the gun ports to fit correctly, and they are now level to each other.

 

[Overworked724]

See my build. Had same problem...just went with it. 👍🏽

[Redshadowrider]

I will take a look at yours.  Thanks Overworked.

 

I looked at it and “may” do mine that way, but decided to approach it differently.  I have removed the slight curve by squaring off the bottom.  It seems to match up, when I compare the distance from the sill to the transom on both ports.  As I go along, I will make other measurements and checking photos on other builds.  And, I test fitted the transom overlay..the arched piece....and it looks good too, but, I will keep looking.  

Edited November 11, 2020 by Redshadowrider

[Redshadowrider]

.....And now, the transom:  

 

I have read through several build threads, the instruction booklet, and the forum thread that Chuck has created.  I can tell you, this is one step that, as a newbie, needs a paragraph or two of explanation.  Every one that I read (except Chuck's), starts me to question why it is curved on the bottom.  I am sure it needs the curve, but it seems more than likely will not have one. 😄  And it seems we all arrive at the same place with the same question. 

 

The biggest issue is getting the gun ports to line up correctly after they are cut into the transom.  Not much room for error here, as the transom overhang on the starboard and port sides is not very big, nor is the distance (1/16") from the bottom of the transom to the bottom of the sill.  Added to that is the angle needed to make sure the sills remain level, and square to the holes in the transom.  Some posts that I read had problems with aligning the transom, and I spent some time considering how to do this.  Particularly since the gun ports are already painted red and any filing on the ship will require repainting..  

 

So here is what I did.

 

First, I clamped the transom, in position on the counter after I removed the curved portion of the transom bottom, fitted the piece to the counter, and marked the gun ports from inside.  Then I removed the transom and drilled a hole in each gun port.

 

 

 

Second, I began using a small file and eventually bigger ones to complete the filing to the gun port size.  

 

 

 

After the filing was complete for both ports, I removed the transom from the ship.  (BTW:  Doing it this way allowed me to use the file and the correct angle in order to keep the sills and lintels level.

 

 

Both gun ports are completed to the sills and lintels.

 

 

 

 

 

Now I use my templates for the last 2 gun ports.

 

 

 

Both ports are now the correct size and the transom is clamped to the counter.  Next step is to line it up on the outside for gluing.....but first I will repaint the frames red.

 

 

 

Edited November 12, 2020 by Redshadowrider

[Redshadowrider]

TA - DAH.....

Don't ya' love it when a plan works from start to finish.  Here is the completed result, with only sanding left to do.  

 

One other recommendation....... which I didn't take a photo of.  Once I completed the gun ports, and test fitted the transom, before I glued it on, I took a 5X7 card stock and traced out the part.  If you look at my final picture, you can see where a crack is glued together and I was still able use.  If I couldn't have fixed it, the traced part would have saved one heck of a lot of rework.  

 

 

Edited November 12, 2020 by Redshadowrider

[Redshadowrider]

In the picture above, if you look closely, there is a plank on the port side that is not totally seated.  I am not sure what is causing the misalignment, but there is at least 1/2 of the plank below where sanding is required, but that is just to level the surface.  At that point, it will start to thin at the high point.  I am considering trying to fix rather than sand because with it painted black I am fairly sure the repair would not be seen.  Input on this, or any other way to fix, other than sanding or repair?  I do need to put a good light on it and look closer as well.

 

Resolved:  After sleeping on the question, I figured out how to fix the high plank.  Rather than cut into the outside of the counter and try to replace the plank that is not seated, I sanded a wedge into a scrap plank, and glued it behind the misaligned plank. Doing that avoided any cutting into existing planking and provided a base which will hold up to sanding.

 

Onto the next step...  More Planks....  😉

Edited November 13, 2020 by Redshadowrider

[Redshadowrider]

Planking the Curve:  I have plenty of clamps, but have run out of room for them while planking around the counter at the wales. 

 

Any suggestions on how this should be done will be appreciated.  I am thinking of upping the soaking time of each plank, but not sure if I am just making it harder on myself.  Currently am looking through build logs at this process to see if someone has a better idea.  

 

Here is my clamping cobweb 😃

 

 

[Overworked724]

Looks about right!!!  My primary weapon was the finger clamp and old episodes of MASH while I waited for the carpenter’s glue to set. 🤣

[Redshadowrider]

LOL,  I was just looking at your build at this same area.  Did it say what filler you used?  I was mostly looking at the pictures.  😁

[Overworked724]

I put in the my blog a few pages on. Great stuff. 

[Overworked724]

Pg 10 of my build. Great stuff. I used my patented finger tip applicator (finger) on most applications. 🤣

[Redshadowrider]

Now, that’s funny, I looked right at it and it didn’t register...duh.  🤫  I just tossed out a small container of the same stuff.  It matches balsa pretty well.

Edited November 13, 2020 by Redshadowrider

[Redshadowrider]

Think Outside of the Box; It's the new Paradigm, Work Smarter Not Harder.....  or whatever floats your corporate boat.  😀

 

I decided that I would try soaking both ends of the planking that is making up the wales, and that was a good choice.  However, it meant that I would soak a plank, add in the curve on the jig, then have to soak it again to make sure the stern would match the curve of the counter.  So I made a decision to split the planks somewhere in the middle and soak them separately.  The butt joints will either be under the wale, or will be copper plated, so a joint is not a big deal.  This way, I can soak the plank for the bow, and when I applied it, I could mark out a bulkhead on which to glue the center of the plank.  I am staggering them so that the butt joints are not on the same bulkhead.  

Now, I can be working on the bow (fairly easy) while the stern section is soaking.  Then when I am ready, I can add the stern part of the plank, glue it to several bulkheads and clamp it around the counter while it is still wet and pliable.  After it dries, I can glue and shape the plank as needed.

 

Now that is synergy.... LOL... 

 

 

Edited November 14, 2020 by Redshadowrider

[Redshadowrider]

@Overworked724  I am now at the point where the Garboard is to be added.  I was reading your log, and saw your comment about not going all the way to bulkhead N.  I am wondering if you went ahead with installing it this way?  Or did you go ahead and curve it to bulkhead N?  And would you do it the same way again?  

[Justin P.]

12 minutes ago, Redshadowrider said:

@Overworked724  I am now at the point where the Garboard is to be added.  I was reading your log, and saw your comment about not going all the way to bulkhead N.  I am wondering if you went ahead with installing it this way?  Or did you go ahead and curve it to bulkhead N?  And would you do it the same way again?  

Not that you asked, but if I had to do it again, I would have dropped my garboard back about a 1/4" - 3/8" from where the instructions stipulate, which is somewhere around bulkhead N I believe.   

[Overworked724]

Yes I did. If it has a ‘curl’ or upward swish at the bow, you will get crowded quickly and the planking becomes quite difficult. 

[Redshadowrider]

Thanks guys, I tried to dry fit a plank, and it also creates a compound curve.  This is also difficult when building and covering an airplane.  Unfortunately, unlike covering, wood doesn’t stretch very much.  😄

Edited November 15, 2020 by Redshadowrider

[Overworked724]

Yep. It almost cycles through a 90 degree angle from vertical at the stern to mid ships then back to vertical. I used those soft plastic clothes pins a lot as well as the modified binder clips. Made it easier. 

[Redshadowrider]

And Now, for Something Completely Different.....  

 

I decided to try a little different process to get the Garboard to match the curve in, at least, one direction.  I started by taping a small piece of file card behind the stem on the plans, then turned it over to the plan face.  I took a small map pin and copied the curve by punching through to the card.  After this, I cut out the curve and tried to match where it started, to where the plank ended.  It is, in no way, exact, but it can get you close so sanding is less.

Then I soaked the plank a little longer than normal and put it in the curve jig.  The curve needed is close to the jig I build for the bow planks.  While it was still damp, I fit (forced) it into the rabbet and clamped it as close to position as I could get.  Then I glued the dry bulkhead contact points and removed the clamps, and worked the rest into place with my fingers.  (Just as Overworked recommended.)  😀

 

It didn't come out perfect, but for my first one I am ok with it.  It's much easier once you realize that the copper plates will be placed over them anyway.  Fill it here an there is small spots and it will work fine.

 

Also meant to add, that I did the tick strip measure and it came out to 22 planks...right on the money.  

 

 

Edited November 15, 2020 by Redshadowrider

[Justin P.]

3 hours ago, Overworked724 said:

Yes I did. If it has a ‘curl’ or upward swish at the bow, you will get crowded quickly and the planking becomes quite difficult. 

Exactly what happened to me.

[Redshadowrider]

And the Total Irony.....   

 

When I got this finished, I looked at the front point of Garboard.   It turned out to be exactly where the picture in the instruction book shows.  In an effort to get more space, I “accidentally” got it in the right place.  Who knew? 😃

[Redshadowrider]

It came to the point where I had to dust off my algebra skills, and determine how much material to remove from each plank.  This is the bow portion where each 1/8” plank needs to be narrowed to allow for all 22 planks to be added.  It’s funny, in a way, that I am better at trig, than algebra.  So I struggled in reconstructing the “X” equals memories, but after quite a while, I finally reached the answer... 3/32” for the width of each plank.  So I decided to reread the instructions to ensure accuracy.

 

As Murphy's Law intervened, here is what I found in the instruction booklet:

 

 .........measure the size of the gap at bulkhead “N” and divide that by 22 or 23 strips. The answer you get will be the width those 22 strips need to be tapered to. The planks at the bow will be tapered to around 3/32” wide (give or take).......   

 

My answer?..... after resurrecting my algebra?...   3/32"  It was right there in print.  😀

 

BTW:  Can anyone point me in the direction of how to narrow the planks to the narrowed width?  It's like trying to sand a wet noodle and it keeps flipping in it's side.

 

Edited November 17, 2020 by Redshadowrider

[Overworked724]

I just measured using a caliper and straight edge with a drafting pencil (sharp as hell point). Once the line was drawn, I placed the plank against the edge of a wider plank of the same thickness as a backstop. 
 

I took a small metal ruler and glued 800 grit sandpaper to the back. 
 

Then I put the metal ruler along the top of both pieces lining up the edge of the rule with the cutting mark. The sandpaper keeps them from moving. 
 

Then I used a #11 blade and ran it gently down the line a few times...the lighter you press the more strokes is required but you don’t run into issues with the blade catching any cross grain and screwing up your cut. Then I just cleaned up the cut edge with 1000 grit sanding pad. 
 

Later on I managed to get an old plank clamp but I thought the above method gave me consistent results. 
 

Think there’s probably some great methods out there...but I had the same problem. Good luck!

Edited November 17, 2020 by Overworked724

[Redshadowrider]

LOL...Thanks, I never thought about trying the cutting method.  Looks like a new #11 blade, and a very sharp pencil, and I will be good to go.

[Redshadowrider]

If You are a Newbie (Like me):   About now, you are at this point, are saying to yourself..... Now I need a plank ripping device that can cut at an angle.   Well, that's what I am saying.  According to the math, I need 22 planks to fit into a slot, not made for that many.   So I need to shave off about 5/32" and leave 3 allowing the 22 planks to fit the bow.  (I have decided to split the planks somewhere in the middle, on a bulkhead so I can bend them at both ends.

Thanks to @Overworked724 for giving me an idea how to make one.

 

I used 3 steel rulers (6", 18" and 1 meter) to create a channel to fit and hold the plank in place for cutting.  Using the 18" and 1 meter, they are long enough to create the small channel.  The 6" is used to actually cut the plank with a razor blade.  (it is thinner than a #11 X-acto blade.)  And all the clamps, and cutting board competes the platform.  Here are 2 pics, One of the "Linear Plank Cutting Machine" and the results on the bow.  😀

Edited November 18, 2020 by Redshadowrider

[Overworked724]

Looking good!

[Redshadowrider]

@Overworked724  I am planning to make tree nails using the drill press method that you used.  Can you provide me the actual needle size that you used?  

[Overworked724]

3 hours ago, Redshadowrider said:

@Overworked724  I am planning to make tree nails using the drill press method that you used.  Can you provide me the actual needle size that you used?  

Sure. The whole explanation is in my build log (see post #251).