USS Constitution by Force9 - Revell - PLASTIC - Revisiting the classic 1/96 kit

[Force9]

More of the build:

 

 

The shot racks were done using a drill press and a very simple set up:

The strip styrene was aligned to the small ruled straight edge and advanced two ticks between punching each hole.  I could mass produce multiple strips in a very short time.

 

I'll utilize some small cannonballs purchased from Bluejacket at a very minimal cost - likely the same available in finer tackle or gun shops.

[Force9]

Now it is on to the deck details - starting with the capstans.  The one provided in the kit sucks and begs for replacement. I also need to provide one for the gun deck.

 

But how to do the drumheads - especially when using styrene?  I pondered and pondered and finally came up with an approach that worked reasonably well.  The key was to visit the local hardware store to acquire some metal washers of appropriate size - 1/8" (#6) did the trick.  The washers will serve as the outline of the circles as we spin everything around on the drill press and use a file to shape the drumhead.

 

Here are the raw materials:

 

After outlining the circles on some sheet styrene (using the washers as a template), I punched the centers and rough cut the shapes.  Those were then mounted on a bolt sized to the washer opening with two washers sandwiching each side of the styrene.  Everything was then clamped tight with the nut:

 

I mounted the set up in the drill press, gave it a whirl, and filed the blanks even with the edges of the washer templates:

 

After removing the styrene from the bolt - viola!  

 

Next I snipped some small styrene stock (.040 x .080 Evergreen 144) and glued them around the perimeter leaving spaces in between to represent the bar openings:

 

After sandwiching those between two of the styrene "washers" I nipped off any protruding material, mounted the rough drumhead back in my bolt assembly and gave it another spin with some light filing to clean the final shape.

 

The whelps were easily managed - just stuck some short pieces of .080 x .080 (Evergreen 164) styrene to some tape and used a round file to carve out the centers:

 

Everything was glued to a small length of styrene rod (6.4mm - Plastruct 90864) and a few small details were added to complete the effect. Coincidentally, the rod fit exactly into the center openings defined by the washers.

 

Here is the gun deck capstan:

 

I wanted the spar deck capstan to look more like the one on the Hull model in the PEM - more mushroom shaped and svelte in comparison to the stockier gun deck capstan:

 

Thanks for enduring the process explanation!

[Force9]

I was going to wait until I had the brake pumps completed, but here are some quick snaps of the current state of things:

 

I've got the bitts completed (except for some rings for the stoppers that'll wait until after the initial painting):

 

Also have completed the cisterns and covers for the chain pumps - still need to fashion some handles:

 

Just for a bit of extra fun... I've left off the cover on one of the cisterns to "expose" the underlying chain wheel:

 

 

It started with me strolling through the model train store for something to use for my capstan drumheads.  I didn't find anything suitable, but this little packet did catch my eye:

 

 

And I thought, hmmmm...

 

So after forking over too much hard earned cash (I think each wheel ended up being over a buck!) I trimmed them up slightly and glued on some small lengths of styrene rod then snipped off the ends.  I suppose some spare PE railings or scale ladder bent around the circumference would've worked as well:

 

 

 

They are really cable sheaves and aren't quite perfect for the job, but at this scale, and barely visible thru the openings, it should suffice well enough.  I'm just gonna paint it black then leave well enough alone - I don't fancy trying to replicate the chain.  That'd be too fiddly and would likely diminish the effect.

 

And just to make sure people know these things don't all work out on the first try... Here is my debris field:

 

Thanks for following along

[Force9]

Here is my effort to replace the pitiful kit provided brake pumps:

 

 

I bulked them up a bit using a bit of octagonal styrene, some brass eyelets, and a small length of brass rod. The stems protruding from the bottoms will aid in positioning them on the deck thru holes drilled in the appropriate spots and hopefully keep them more secure.

 

I should pause to say that the OOB pumps should NOT be placed in the bow as the Revell instructions instruct:

 

This positioning is almost too bizarre to merit discussion... Suffice to say that the pumps are better positioned on the gun deck.  The guidance I've used is from Chappelle's layout of the President taken from the drafts made of the captured ship by the British.  It shows four brake pumps - two near the aft part of the main hatch and two a bit farther forward near amidships.  The layout of the Revell deck does not lend itself to positioning two pumps near the main hatch.  Instead, I've elected to place them in the more traditional location near the main mast in between the chain pumps.  The other two were placed in the pre-existing holes on the deck that would normally have eyelets inserted.

 

 

I think these are also referred to as "Elm Tree" pumps - something to do with that being the preferred wood for the rot-resistance qualities when exposed so long to moisture.

 

I think these will do well enough as is and I'm on to the camboose...

[Force9]

The Camboose

Aside from the guns, the last major component for the gun deck is the ship’s stove – historically referred to on the Constitution as the Camboose.

From Wikipedia:

Railroad historian David L. Joslyn (a retired Southern Pacific Railroad draftsman) has connected "caboose" to kabhuis, a Middle Dutch word referring to the compartment on a sailing ship's main deck in which meals were prepared. Kabhuis is believed to have entered the Dutch language circa 1747 as a derivation of the obsolete Low German word Kabhuse, which also described a cabin erected on a ship's main deck. However, further research indicates this relationship was more indirect than that described by Joslyn.

Eighteenth century French naval records make reference to a cambose or camboose, which described the food preparation cabin on a ship's main deck, as well as the range within. The latter sense apparently entered American naval terminology around time of the construction of the USS Constitution, whose wood-burning food preparation stove is officially referred to as the camboose. [4] These nautical usages are now obsolete: camboose and kabhuis became the galley when meal preparation was moved below deck, camboose, the stove, became the galley range, and kabhuis the cookshack morphed into kombuis, which means kitchen in Afrikaans and Dutch.

It is likely that camboose was borrowed by American sailors who had come into contact with their French counterparts during the American Revolution (recall that France was an ally and provided crucial naval support during the conflict). A New English Dictionary citation from the 1940s indicates camboose entered English language literature in a New York Chronicle article from 1805 describing a New England shipwreck, in which it was reported that "[survivor] William Duncan drifted aboard the canboose [sic]."[3] From this, it could be concluded that camboose was part of American English by the time the first railroads were constructed. As the first cabooses were wooden shanties erected on flat cars (as early as the 1830s,[5]) they would have resembled the cook shack on the (relatively flat) deck of a ship, explaining the adoption and subsequent corruption of the nautical term.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caboose'>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caboose

The camboose is probably not too difficult to create using styrene and wire, but it turns out that I had the opportunity to cheat a bit with an aftermarket version.

An oft repeated lament is the fact that the explosion/proliferation of aftermarket Photo etched brass does not include sets for the common plastic sailing ships. This seems especially strange considering the proven popularity of kits like the 1/96 Revell Constitution. You’d think it’d be a no brainer for a PE company to put together a set that includes the hammock cranes, eyelets, and various other small pieces that would benefit from finer detail. (Maybe even throw in a laser cut wood veneer deck kit.) It is a real head-scratcher…

But it turns out that one company DOES, in fact, offer a PE set for the 1/96 Constitution… And not just any company, but the leading model ship company in the USA - The good folks at Bluejacket Shipcrafters (http://www.bluejacketinc.com/kits/ussconstitution.htm'>http://www.bluejacketinc.com/kits/ussconstitution.htm). Their PE set is a subset of their terrific 1/8” scale Constitution kit and it is not listed in their catalog, but if you give them a call and pitifully beg them, they’ll sell you the PE set as a standalone item. Well… truth be told, you don’t really have to beg. They are very nice and are happy to part with a set as long as they have enough spares on hand. Call and ask for Suzi (or Lisa) and tell her I sent you – if she doesn’t slam the phone down right away, then you’ll probably be in luck. You can also email them a request at info@bluejacketinc.com. (Reference Part No.s BJ-31, BJ-57) Bluejacket doesn’t make their own PE (they farm it out to a subcontractor), but it is very high quality and is a bit thicker than other PE sets I’ve used. The set is sold in two sheets (you have to purchase both) and includes a camboose as well as the hammock cranes and other goodies. There are also some gratings and an entire plate for the stern that the wooden kit utilizes.







The hammock cranes are of particular interest to me – really the reason I went after this PE. The kit provided ones are clunky looking and easily broken. I had thought to utilize brass micro tubing and the small Jotika eyelets to replace these, but stumbling upon these PE versions will save me many units of effort and ultimately provide a much nicer replacement. Utilizing these PE hammock cranes is many steps farther down the line in my build, but I did want to show folks this option sooner than later so that those who are doing similar builds can add these to Santa’s list (along with the 1/200 Bismarck?).

Here is my camboose fashioned from the Bluejacket PE version and slightly enhanced with some brass railing with styrene doors and firebox tray:







A little fine tuning and maybe the condenser and a spit and this'll be ready for painting.

Thanks again to those who follow along... Edited February 21, 2013 by Force9

[james_carder]

Would the shot racks be correct? Page 29 of Blue Jacket manual talks about hanging shot lockers between each gun. Also shown in Figure 13.

[Marcus.K.]

Hello Evans, 

 

oh - you have been the one I saw the photo etched camboose weeks ago!! Back then I did not really  read the posts - just noticed the photos ..

 

I have a lot of questions: you wrote that you "simulated" the planking according to Longridge? Which book is it? Did I miss the describtion? I very much like your way of "correcting" the Revell deck. I was thinking about using wood for the deck and either scraping in the planking - or really adding wooden planks on it. Your way seems to be more efficient since you can use the gratings and more.

 

On the other hand: you did not try to represent the decks .. what´s the english expression - the deck is usually bended so that water is pouring down to the sides of the deck? Therefore the middle of the deck is a bit "higher" than the sides were the bulkwards do have the openings for the water ... 

 

Will you present the model in a diorama - in action?

Probably you think about a model presented just like an old admirality model?! Will you add sails? Great work - to show the beams of the hull and the decks - that will look marvelous!

 

I am looking forward to see the next steps ... as far as I understood you recollect what you presented somewere else - after the breakdown here at MSW?? How far is the model in reallity?? Oh I can´t wait to see more of it!  

[Force9]

Hello James

 

A very good observation on your part!

 

The shot garlands/racks pose an interesting dilemma.  The Revell 1/96 Constitution makes no allowance for shot storage so we are left to our own inclinations...  The Hull model in the PEM does not show them at all and that probably led to the absence on the Revell kit.  As you point out, Larry Arnot and Cdr. Tyrone Martin apparently invested much research into the Bluejacket kit and they suggest shot racks between all the guns but not around the hatches.  

I would think, however, that shot storage around the hatches would be a standard approach in 1812.  Certainly many period models would show these included.  But is there more justification?

Here is my reasoning... Old Ironsides pounded HMS Guerriere to kindling in only 30 minutes.  Evidence very strongly suggests that part of the reason was that the American gun crews fired TWO round shot on EVERY discharge during the battle.  The data suggests that each gun shot @10 times in 30 minutes. That is a lot of cannon balls to have to haul up the companionways. Common sense would suggest that the crew pre-positioned most of that in shot racks before the shooting began - and they'd need plenty of storage.  I suspect that there was storage around the hatches AND in between each gun - at least on the main gun deck.  This would seem to be supported by the c1820 gun deck plan of USS United States made by Charles Ware which shows both storage options in place:

 

Using this deck plan as guidance, I intend to include shot racks in between the 24 pdr guns on my model in addition to what you already see around the hatches.

The spar deck is another matter... I will include shot storage around the hatches on that deck as well, but NOT include shot racks between the carronades.  Despite the guidance from the Bluejacket manual and other representations (Gilkerson’s painting in the Gillmer “Old Ironsides...” book), I just don’t think that was a practical solution.  Many of those guns have pin rails in between them and the necessary cordage dangling down would likely be in the way... The same deck plans of USS United States offer a solution.  Here is the spar deck:

 

This clearly shows that the carronades would have a tray of round shot close at hand for battle as well as shot stored around the hatches.  There is also another clue that helps me justify my approach.  If you were a famous personage back in that era, the most flattering compliment would be to have your portrait painted by an accomplished artist.  This was a very expensive thing to do back in those days - often many thousands of dollars in an age when a good sailor made 10 bucks a month.  The important businessmen in the City of New York commonly took up a subscription to pay for a commissioned work of military heroes after a great victory.  They gradually built up a significant "Hall of Fame" collection in city hall.  Here is the one done for Commodore William Bainbridge following his victory over HMS Java (still in the collection of the city of New York http://www.nyc.gov/html/artcom/html/portrait/portrait.shtml):

We see the talented artist captured the Commodore’s famous arrogance and pomposity.  He has also captured something else - look at the shot tray under Bainbridge’s boot.  This is the approach I’ll take for the spar deck.  (We’ll come back to this painting when it comes time for the carronades).

I don’t mean to overly sway everyone in my direction. Unlike Cdr Tyrone Martin and others, I’m not an historian or professional researcher... Folks have to go with what works for them and this approach just feels right to me.

Thanks for enduring a brain dump.

Edited February 23, 2013 by Force9

[Marcus.K.]

Very impressive - these are very good obervations and its great that you include such originally sources like paintings of the old heros. THAT I very much like - and this is fun on investigating. I very much like your approach!!! 

[patrickmil]

"Thanks for enduring the brain dump".... No no no, thank YOU for making some of these deductions. Many people are building the USS Constitution by going off of whatever the kits decides is pertinent but not necessarily historically accurate. Your log is pointing out quite a bit and it's very enjoyable to follow along. Please continue to brain dump  . I know I will be stealing some of your posted thoughts when I start on my Connie.

[dafi]

Nice to have you back Evan :-)

 

All the best, Daniel

[james_carder]

Thanks for the brain dump. Now that makes sense.

Jim

[Force9]

Hallo Marcus!

 

Regarding your earlier questions:

 

- I used C. Nepean Longridge's "Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" for guidance on the pattern for the deck planking.  The book is a detailed outline of the author's own model of the HMS Victory (which used to be in the Science museum in Kensington).  He gives a very good overview of how to lay out a correct pattern including the joggling forward and aft.

 

- The Revell kit does a decent job of representing the curvature ("camber") on the spar deck, but makes no allowance for any curve on the gun deck.  I choose not to correct this on the lower deck since it would be a lot of work for any area that won't be too obvious.  You'd really need to rebuild the entire deck to fix that.  I'll spend those Units of Effort elsewhere!

 

- I won't be turning this into a diorama... I've seen many fine examples of that approach, but in truth I am just interested in representing the design and configuration of the ship itself.  At this point I am thinking of including the sails as shown in the Corne paintings of the battle.  No rust or barnacles either... But I will use some washes and dry brushing to bring out the detail on the molded plastic.

 

- I am almost caught up on my build log so you are coming in with plenty of time to help influence my future actions.

 

Enjoy and please keep up the encouragement!

[Force9]

Still plenty to do on the spar deck, but I'm going to divert some attention to the stern just to mix things up a bit - variety is the spice of life and all that...

 

The Revell stern is a refined representation of the Hull model stern:

 

The main guidance for my build is the series of paintings by Corne... Here is a close up shot showing good detail of the stern in the second painting:

 

My first task, unfortunately, is to remove the CONSTITUTION name on the upper counter.  The Hull model, the Corne series of paintings, the George Ropes jr. paintings, and the Thomas Birch painting all agree that it wasn't there...

 

 A scraping blade on the hobby knife along with some fine grit sandpaper does the trick in short order (Don't watch if you're squeamish!)

 

Once eliminated, I came back and scribed some planking on the counter with a flexible straight edge and my trusty scribe tool:

 

Next I determined to add some stern ports to the lower counter.  The Hull model does not show these fitted, but the Chappelle drawing of the President does.  I also think there is a faint representation of them on the Corne stern.  The Ropes paintings clearly show them (with cannon poking out no less (yikes!) as well. The Marquardt AOTS shows them in all of the different  iterations of the stern that are outlined in his historical overview.  I just have a feeling that an American heavy frigate would have these in place... they are primarily for ventilation, but could also serve as loading access for small lighters alongside.  More likely that the midshipmen berthed in the area would pitch trash out the back and watch it float away...

 

I marked the suitable locations and drilled a small pilot hole to help align the larger drill bit:

 

Next I used my trusty flat file to clean up the edges for the final outline:

 

 

The stern gallery windows are next up.  I want to show more panes to align better with the Corne version of the stern.

 

The Hull model has the very simple 2x2 panes that are on our kit. The Corne paintings show more complex 2x3 window panes.  The President drawings suggest 4x3.  The Bluejacket wooden kit includes the PE stern shown in my earlier thread.  This has the 2x3 pattern which only lends itself to an upright rectangular shaped opening.  The Revell kit has perfectly square openings and I didn't fancy the idea of modifying those.  So I needed a square pattern - basically 3x3.

 

There are some model railroader windows available in suitable scale that could work in a pinch (with slight modifications/trimming), but I found a PE solution that worked great:

It turns out that this PE mesh by K&S Metals is just the ticket.  A 3x3 pattern snipped free of the grid fits EXACTLY into the openings defined by the Revell stern windows.  I cut out the appropriate blocks of "panes", smoothed the edges with my small metal file, and slipped them neatly into the openings.

 

BTW - If you'd like to pursue this solution yourself, I'd suggest you run - not walk - to your nearest Model RR hobby shop to grab the last of the K&S PE mesh in their inventory - rumor has it these have been discontinued.

 

Here is the first window test fitted in place:

 

Since that worked so well, I went ahead and completed the whole row:

 

 

I'm well pleased with the result so far...

 

Thanks for following a long dissertation!

Edited February 25, 2013 by Force9

[Marcus.K.]

Arg .. now I lost my post!!! .. o.k. again:

 

Looks great - a huge improvement!!! No question!

 

But: you pointed on the hull-model and Corné Paintings - in which the windows do NOT look quadratic - but vertical rectangular. Would it be an idea to create rectangular window panes - with wider frames right and left side of each window?? Of course the PE parts look great - it would be difficult to create something so regular as the PE-parts!!

 

Did you compare the deck planking pattern with Tyrone Martins and Lords layout? Does not T. Martin show something in his "building a legend"? I think he referred to it concerning the longitudinal enforcement of the decks.

 

I did some years ago discuss with a very literate modelist saying he had evidence that the early Constitution did have a fishbone-pattern for the decks planking. Asking for his sources he turned out to be very thin-skinned and said more or less "if you do not trust me, I stop my conversation with you!" .. Well, I did not trust  ... and he did not understand my questions. Is the Hull-model representing planking? Does anyone know that?

 

Do you have Will Bass´s beautiful book "USS Constitution - superfrigate with many faces - second phase"? Did you read about the "squared thing" mistery? Some here in Germany believe these squared things to be air port openings - just as in a side view of USS President by A. Roux visible in the stern area of the ship. Tyrone Martin does not agree and point on log entries saying "added Air Vents" .. which of course leaves room for interpretation ;-) Will you add something onto the hull?

 

Added this eveing: 

What´s funny is: I too got the Blue Jacket Building Instructions with the drawings - bought them years ago as reference. But I was so much attracted by the drawings and the booklet that I did not look for the Parts List (which - thank the lord! - is still there. .. 

 

That list is quite impressive! There is - expect the wood - a lot more: They have a complete set of Blocks - as I learned in casted britannia metal - said to be in very good shape and coloured even nicer than wooden ones. I did not find any picture / photo in internet,.. 

 

And there are Eyebolds and Eyepins .. cleats , belaying pins ... and and and.. 

 

May I ask what you did chose? I´d like to see the quality - which is worth spending money for it - which would be good to do by yourself? I am really struggeling because my efforts to create for example my own eyebolds are up to now .. well .. not worth the time! 

 

But then there is - of course - too the question concerning the costs... what fortune might that cost???

Edited February 25, 2013 by Marcus.K.

[Marcus.K.]

Another question:

 

I recently stepped over a great digital picture of the 1803 Corne-sideview  - which we all can see in Force9´s avatar:

 

 

source: http://blog-stampofapproval.com/tag/uss-constitution/

 

I never saw the painting in that size - and what I recognized in the first view: the colour of the coppered hull! It´s green!

 

Quick comparison with the Isaac-Hull-Model: you will see that this too is green.

 

Until yesterday I imagined that the sailors doing the model did just use the only colours available on board: white, black - and the green for the bulkward. But how to represent the coppered hull? Well, in my believe they probably used one of the available colours... That was until I saw that Felice Corné also used green for the coppered hull.

 

My idea right now: the ship was back in Boston for refit in summer 1803 (as far as I remember?!?) .. It might have stayed for a while in the sweet water of Charles River - because the refit was maybe done close to the navy yard - or maybe to get rid of saltwater-species as sea slugs and / or algea which might have died in fresh water. And therefore the copper just above the waterline might have got the green rust which copper usually get in fresh water. Could it be that this is the reason for using green as colour?

 

I compared with later paintings done by Corne - in the battle-paintings the lower hull seems to be brown - or a very dark red?

 

What do you guys think? Which colour will you use?

Edited February 26, 2013 by Marcus.K.

[Force9]

Marcus...

 

I'll try to address a few of your questions:

 

- The windows on the stern would probably be more accurate if they were taller and rectangular with 2x3 panes.  Unfortunately it would require a major reconstruction of the stern that I have neither the skill nor the courage to attempt.  I'm satisfied with just making the change using PE to add a bit of detail.

 

- I did use some guidance from Tyrone Martin's "Building a Legend" when scribing the gun deck planks.  You'll notice on closer inspection that I have made an attempt to represent the interlocking thick strakes that add longitudinal strength.  I've scribed two rows of planking with wider planks and interlocked pattern.  The actual ship shows this as well (you can see that in the stern cabin photo from my visit), but the joins seem to be closer together than what Martin specifies  in his book.  He says it spans about 40 feet. I've followed his guidance and spaced them out a bit farther apart on my deck.  Of course, they'll show up better when paint is applied.  I have never seen any source show a wishbone pattern to the deck - certainly not the Hull model.

 

- I have never seen William Bass' book (which he wrote with his wife?)... I have stumbled across the mystery regarding the square features on the early Corne paintings.  I don't believe those were the ends of iron bars that ran athwartships... that seems too weird to be true.  Despite Tyrone Martin's theory, I think they were just early air ports for the berth deck that may have been removed at a later time and added back before the war.  Or Corne just assumed they were there and added them to the painting.

 

- I'm glad you did not throw away the Bluejacket parts list.  Whew!  As noted before, most of those parts are not available in their online catalog, but they'll let you order them separately.  I'd recommend the larger resin boat for sure... In addition to the photo etch brass, i ordered some pins and eyebolts, etc.  I also ordered a sample of a long gun and carronade just to compare.  I did not order any cleats - I figure I can make those well enough.  I have not yet ordered the blocks for the rigging.  I'm sure it can get expensive if you order all of the rigging components at once.  I might order them in phases to distribute the costs.  Stay tuned - you'll soon see examples of my purchases.

 

Thanks for your continued interest!

[Force9]

I'm caught up on the updates from my previous log... Now we are in new territory!

 

I've started in on the spar deck hatch coamings... I thought I should build them up a bit and add some curvature to the surface.

 

I started by adding Evergreen no. 144 (.040x.080) to the side edges of all the coamings.  Next I added Evergreen no. 164 (.080x.080) to the front and back edges.  This built up enough material to allow for shaping the curved edges:

 

 

Then I prepared the patient for surgery by masking the decking to protect against random scraping as I used the file to shape the edges:

 

 

 

I lined the hatch interiors with Evergreen no. 129 (.020x.250) leaving a slight lip for the gratings:

 

 

 

Still need to finish off some more interior details and perhaps soften the curvature on a few of the hatches.

 

Thanks for following along.

Edited February 28, 2013 by Force9

[patrickmil]

The progress is really coming along on this incredible kit-bash. The frames for the coamings look excellent. I remember asking you on MSW 1.0 what you were going to do with the cannons and carronades. Are you going to be going with Bluejacket replacements or do you have something else in mind?

[Force9]

Patrick -

 

Thanks for the encouragement... I just had a look at your terrific Niagra brig.  Great work!

 

In truth I haven't yet focused any time on the guns.  I did purchase a few samples of the Bluejacket 24 pdrs for comparison.  At first blush they look a bit more stout than the Revell versions.  I kinda like it.  I will, of course, be augmenting the carriages with the proper bolts and tackle.  Might change out the trucks - at least on the ones that might be visible.

 

 I suspect that I will completely refashion the carronade carriages.  They really aren't going to be too difficult and it will allow for including the elevation screws.

 

That'll all be a few steps away.  Up next are the spar deck rails and other details...

 

Stay tuned!

[Marcus.K.]

Hello Evans,

 

I found something interesting which might help improving your deck configuration - please check this site - it describes the positions of the pumps (or did you already??) .. there is a picture of the 1816 Waldo Orlop deck drawing. Were the pumps seated on the Orlop or/and on Gun Deck? In any case the deck would need the openings for the waterways. 

 

http://usscm.blogspot.de/2013/02/patent-pumps-for-constitution.html

 

To my eye it seems that these are 6 openings for 3 chain pumps .. or are these 6 openings for the pumps as you did scatch-build?

 

 

Edit 1: I just re-read the artikel and wondered .. which sort of pump are now used in Constitution? The new Bourke Patent ones? .. Or the Chain Pumps which are so similar to your presented beautiful models? Or are the "new" pumps the mentioned Elm Tree pumps? If I understood correct chain pumps have been used very long ... and additional there have been the not often used and not well working ... other ones.  

 

Or are the round one 6 openings for 3 chain pumps - and the squared ones following the keel-line are the additional new Patent-Pumps? ??

Edited March 4, 2013 by Marcus.K.

[Force9]

Hallo Marcus!

 

I am an avid follower of the USS Constitution museum blogs and am familiar with the post you reference.  Many great tidbits show up from time to time in that blog.  I've also seen the Waldo deck plans in the reference CD produced by the Naval History and Heritage command.  I can't make sense of those pump positions.  I think the article suggests that the new brake pumps did not prove reliable enough - so it would be a surprise if there were no chain pumps at all by 1816.  The pattern would not lend itself to any "normal" configuration of the chain pumps.  I can't imagine that a ship the size of Constitution would have only three main pumps.  It would also not make sense that the pattern shown would support six pumps.  I've elected instead to follow the pump layout suggested by the Chapelle drawings of the USS President.  

 

What are your thoughts - will your build eventually only include three pumps?

 

Good conversations - keep them coming!

Evan

[Ship Shape]

I looked till I found this thread, I see you are still working your mojo on this ole war horse, looking forward to more of your handy work.

Rick

[Force9]

Ahoy Rick!

 

Thank you for hunting down my build log - I can use all the support and encouragement I can get!  I've been laid low by that nasty virus that is going around... I hope to post more progress this weekend.  Work continues on the spar deck details.

 

Stay tuned!

Evan

[Marcus.K.]

I can use all the support and encouragement I can get!  I've been laid low by that nasty virus that is going around... 

Hello Evans, 

 

if its encouragement you need I can help : please keep on going with the build - its a fantastic work!

 

Hope you soon get rid of the virus. We had in January a bad time in which all of the family (we are five) had been struck - probably by several different kind of virus´s (plural of virus is??) one after another .. I had to stay 3 weeks at home .. any time I was thinking "now its getting better" the strike back hit me for 2 - 3 more days .. until .. That was a horrible time. Hope yours is not that strong.

[Old Sea Dog]

You Sir are a true craftsman, your detail is outstanding!!!

[Force9]

Marcus - I'm finally recovered and glad to be back in the land of the living!

 

Sea Dog - thank you for the praise. Somehow I've gotten caught up in the fun details of this historic ship.  I didn't start out with many modeling skills under my belt, but my "craftsmanship" is bound to be improving as I go along.

 

 

Here is my latest progress on the spar deck:

 

All of the basic deck modifications complete - includes hatch coamings and shot racks:

 

I dismembered the Bluejacket PE gratings to suit the Revell hatches:

 

I've begun to work on the fife rails.  The molded belaying pins are mostly bent or broken on these and could use replacements.  There is also a lot of flash/seams that need to be cleaned up...

 

Here is a splurge purchase - scale brass belaying pins (Bluejacket part # 119). I just couldn't resist.  I'm sure something suitable could be put in place with small styrene rod with some blobs of glue on top. I think a complete set for this kit would cost about $40 US:

 

Some test fitted railings and gratings:

 

Thanks for following along

 

Evan

[Blue Ensign]

Those pins are a much better option Evan, will make the task of belaying  easier and neater.

 

Cheers,

 

M.

[patrickmil]

The gratings and fife rails look great. One question for you though... Are you worried about there not being more thickness to the gratings at this scale? The photos look excellent with them in place and it's hard to tell whether or not this would be of any concern.

[RadMan]

Force 9.... awesome work so far.  I am still on page 3 of your build admiring those K&S windows on the stern.  Brilliant!  I really like how sharp and clean the lines look with those windows.

 

Question for you:  When you fitted your stern to the rest of the hull...how did it fit?  I seem to have a gap between the bottom of the stern and the two halves of the hull.  It just doesn't seem to line up good and I am afraid about trimming it too much.  Thoughts???