Cutty Sark by rfolsom - Billing Boats

[rfolsom]

Resizing is never an issue with me.  I just have a problem when two frames of reference don't agree. (Especially if the two reference frames can be trusted;  i.e. Campbell and Lou.)  But as I've shown with the catheads, and Campbell's plans, his (Mr. C.) drawings don't agree on the same sheet!

 

So, I have the schematics you gave me (75%) the schematics I derived from Lou's actual photos (20%) and the tiny bit shown by Campbell (5%).

 

The wheelhouse does not disturb me nearly as much as the ship's wheel itself...  most all I've seen are grossly out of proportion...and has anyone attempted to scratch build a ships wheel??

 

Cheers to all the insane modelers!    ~Bob

[rfolsom]

Where is Lou, by the way?  Seems he pops in every once in a while, but teases us with work that the mortals can only dream of...

 

Are you out there, Lou?  Time to post!!

 

~Bob

[rfolsom]

I've already decided on the wood to be used, and their dimensions.  Just need to finalize the size of the structure.  (Campbell says 6' by 2.5';  drawings that Nenad supplied, from Lou (?) say 36" by 81.25") 

 

Which is the more accurate?

 

(and I think to correct the Admiral's grammar   )

Edited August 1, 2014 by rfolsom

[NenadM]

... The wheelhouse does not disturb me nearly as much as the ship's wheel itself...  most all I've seen are grossly out of proportion...and has anyone attempted to scratch build a ships wheel??

 

 

 

Bob, I saw somewhere in scratch build logs making of wheel from million pieces, right in scale. When I get time, I ll try to find and send you a link. In mean time as you wish see logs of Dan Vadas, Chuck Passaro, Nils (Mirabell61), Mark, Popey, EdT and other top builders) or do some research. Marvelous work they did ( somebody to torture me ...) 

Edited August 1, 2014 by Nenad M

[dgbot]

There are many ways to make a wheel it is just getting up the gumption to try out the way that works for you.  It can be a pain but after a while a little fun as well.

David B

[rfolsom]

Yes, David;  the pain and fun go hand in hand through all the parts of these ships.  I have "test" belaying pins that are too small for the pinrails, but would work great for wheel handles...(a start, but where from there?)

 

That's why I'm on this forum..

[Lou van Wijhe]

I've already decided on the wood to be used, and their dimensions.  Just need to finalize the size of the structure.  (Campbell says 6' by 2.5';  drawings that Nenad supplied, from Lou (?) say 36" by 81.25") 

 

Which is the more accurate?

 

(and I think to correct the Admiral's grammar   )

 

The drawing cutout Nenad already posted shows the wheelbox dimensions taken in the ship itself a couple of years ago. Here's a somewhat clearer picture of it:

It's a cutout from a set of drawings published by the Dutch Modelbuilders Society (Nederlandse Vereniging van Modelbouwers). The set (24 sheets) can be ordered from their webshop for 84,30 Euros + P&P. Should you be interested I could help ordering.

 

Lou

[rfolsom]

Thank you, Lou;  I think we all are waiting on the progress of your fine model...

[rfolsom]

Bouncing around again;  I'm back to the cathead testing.  I found out sheaves could be done pretty easily by forming a ring of #24 steel wire, and inserting into the slots.  I also put the first coat of black paint on.  I'm not sure if the exact dimensions of everything is correct, so I haven't put anymore details on at the moment.  This is a test assembly, and although I'd like to use it on the actual ship, I'm not above remaking it when everything is finalized.

 

Oh, and what looks better, white inner ends (of the catheads) (per current restoration)  or all black??  Was one scheme original?

 

Cheers!

 

~Bob

Edited August 4, 2014 by rfolsom

[rfolsom]

Getting tired;  but still want to make progress...  Decided to start on the deadeyes.  Semi-mass produced, I just cut off a 4 to 5 cm length of 24 gauge wire and started in on the larger ones... Need at least 50 for this size, 25 for the smaller size...  This is for the bottom  of the stays.. All will need the white metal bands (and painted, at a later time...)

 

And yes, I am doing this part on my carpet!!

[clearway]

All photos i have seen over the past 30 or so years in different books- some dating from the 1950,s and 60s show white inner ends- it makes sense as there was no flood lighting of decks in 1869 and painting it white would make it easier to pick out on deck i suppose? And well done on missing out the middle man and heading straight for the carpet- i spent 3 hours searching for a turret handrail off my 1/350 dreadnought upgrade that i dropped onto the carpet last weekend

Keith

[dgbot]

I spent 30 min cutting and trimming a piece last night.  It dropped from my tweezers.  It took a minimag and 2 hrs later to find it.  Instead of being by my work table it landed near the sofa by the basement door.

David B

[rfolsom]

I found that with all the clutter on my workbench, I lost these 3.5 mm deadeyes easier (bouncing into wood piles and tool piles, bouncing off the table and onto the floor or under the hull of the build) then just sitting cross legged on the floor and working in my lap.  Worst case, I had to stand up and look down....  I haven't spent more than 30 seconds finding one when working on the floor, sitting in front of the T.V. with some video or documentary playing!

Bob

[NenadM]

Somewhere on start of my build I made all deck and rail eyes. And later 20% more, after many of them dissapeared somewhere by them own will.

 

When I get tired of mostly unsuccessfull hunting of them, start thinking; what do you do with dog which like to go out of yard? Just tie dog. And idea come

 

Simple way not to lose eyes: just pull throught piece of white rope. Easier to manipulate during wireing, and if it bounce somewhere, you will see rope easy.

[rfolsom]

That's a good idea, Nenad;  actually, during my first wooden build, (AL's Swift) I threaded my deadeye assemblies onto a needle to keep track of them.  (All eight of them...)

[rfolsom]

Did a little more cathead testing;  Keith, your theory on the white inner part definitely makes practical sense;  and I've seen many pictures depicting these in this scheme. (but also I've seem some all black).

 

On my test cat I tried a coat of white, and fiddled with the holding plate, (made of aluminum).

 

This is a test, ONLY a test, so the paint and details will not (hopefully!) look like this on the real cathead, mounted to the real ship...

[rfolsom]

Next I need to finalize where to cut my bulwarks for the catheads, so I can finally test my prototype(s) on the actual deck.  I think I'll move my two little marks to line up with the frame end... This photo shows a rail, but it's not the topgallant rail, just the "shim" rail I installed all along the ship to even everything up...

[rfolsom]

Again, no topgallant rail installed, but  I had to check out how several of the deadeye assemblies looked in situ.  These deadeyes are "naked";  they will be painted black with white bands (strops) added, and their posts painted white after affixing.  This is a picture of the port mainmast area, with the first five shroud deadeyes temporarily  in position.  It's hard to tell from this photo, but each deadeye post is angled slightly differently to follow the run of the shrouds and stays when finally rigged.  All holes are pre-drilled;  you can see several belaying pin holes forward of the rightmost deadeye, (foreward is to the right) and running along the perimeter of the main rail. 

 

Several larger holes in the main rail on the left of the picture are for the deadeye assemblies for the main backstays.

Edited August 5, 2014 by rfolsom

[rfolsom]

...and yes, their little heads are all askew, they'll be lined up when painted..

Edited August 5, 2014 by rfolsom

[rfolsom]

I wanted to finish wiring these guys tonight;  I did 25 last night, and my fingers were very sore tonight;  I stopped after about 15.  (I held the wire with pliers, but did the twisting with my fingers;  I thought I'd destroy the wooden deadeyes using two pliers..)

 

Back to the catheads...

[NenadM]

Bob, you are attached to your fingers, not to dead-eyes, so, take care of fingers more than the dead-eyes

[rfolsom]

I think I will have to do a deadeye rigging test soon.  The last rigging I did was with the plastic kits (Revell Cutty, Connie, and Monogram? Santa Maria)  between the ages of 9 and 14.  (just a couple years back )  However, none of these had actual deadeye lanyard rigging, as these were always molded in one piece.

 

I also plan on pulling out my incomplete AL Swift (first wooden model, and first adult-built ship model, started about 6 years ago) and finishing it to get experience with rigging once again.

 

8 deadeyes as opposed to 75+... and that's just the lower shrouds of the Cutty Sark...

Edited August 5, 2014 by rfolsom

[NenadM]

Dear friend, do you rush a little ?

 

Or just curious ?

 

Looking at myself, there is a lot to learn  about masts and ropes and sails before even thinking of start rigging

Edited August 5, 2014 by Nenad M

[rfolsom]

Not rushing, Nenad.. Curious, definitely, but as each assembly, and process, is related to each other in a complex system like this, with even the most accurate plans available still needing to be shrunk to 1:76.8,  I try to plan ahead to foresee any possible setbacks..  (i.e. when wiring deadeyes, I am thinking "hmmm.... will these holes accept the proper diameter of lanyard ropes without modification?  Will the black paint block the holes?"  (No, I'm going to use a Sharpie!!)  Better to find out now, as opposed to having 75+ plus happily mounted deadeyes, and then starting your rigging, and going "OH %&*T!!"

 

Cautious, more than Curious...

[NenadM]

Anyhow, it seems to me that always is good idea to make tests if you are not quite sure what you are actualy doing.

 

Ah, why I was not so clever on my start? Better ever than never

[rfolsom]

Yes, my logic is like this:  If A connects to B connects to C connects to...  ad infinitum

 

Don't learn A 100% and be new to B, and nothing else beyond.

 

Learn A 50%, B 25% and see C....

 

Progress to A 75%, B 50%, C 25%, and then start looking at D...

 

...and so on.

Edited August 5, 2014 by rfolsom

[NenadM]

And bounce from time to time, just to be interesting

[rfolsom]

Agreed, Nenad!  Always make tests!  I have a test cathead that I hope to finalize soon, so they can be installed and the topgallant rail shortly thereafter.  But still trying to think ahead, will the catheads snap off after catching  on a piece of clothing as I'm reaching around the ship?  I won't install the whisker booms until well into the rigging, so I don't think so.

 

As far as bouncing, I think I do it more than a rubber ball, and it would make those viewing my log very confused,  but it is interesting for me...

[NenadM]

I have just remembered a "bounce" add level to Call of Dutu II ...

[rfolsom]

I have Call of Duty III for the ps3, but my ps3 died (blue light of death) around 2009.  (Only 2 years old at the time, and I paid $600 for the thing!)  I was able to "semi-ressurect" the console by tearing it apart and reflowing the BGA solder around the CPU and GPU with a heat gun.  It would last a month and then fail again.  If I had still worked for the circuit board manufacturing company I did before, I probably could have sent the motherboard through the Heller reflow oven and it would have been fixed. 

 

I also think that I could have reproduced the scrollwork on the Cutty Sark using photo lithography and copper etching, but I don't work there anymore, and hindsight is always 20/20.