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Spanish Galleon by DmitriyOG - Revell - 1/96 - PLASTIC - modified as ghost pirate ship Flying Dutchman


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Hello every body. I discovered this forum a year ago doing airfix sovereign of the seas , which was my first ship build. I started few years ago ww2 tanks and warplanes, ww1 planes and ww 1-2 battleships. This is my second build of a sail ship and it will be a custom thing, Im pretty sure when I was a kid I attempted one of these galleons buy never finished and lost the kits due to some moving around.

Alright  I started last week here are some first pics. Im new to ships dont know the names of things :)

Here s the kit and whats been done so far.

1. Drill cannon ports out for lower deck.

2. Cut it out even more. 

3. Basic hull staining

4. Basic decknstain

5.metal cannon weathering

6. Drill eyebolts out.

7. Lower deck for canons.

8. Sand rough edges. Make it woodish

I know I made a mistake already Was too excited to put hull togehter so when I will be putting hull in place those eyebotls will be in the way :( that was because I followes instructions 😛

 

Excuse me about pics, I am using my cell and if quality or angles aremt good gime some suggestions :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Very cool!

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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10 hours ago, DmitriyOG said:

Trying to create some windows and doors decorations here. Let me know what you guys think.  Would they look good or not

20210219_032816.jpg

I think it looks great — it really adds to the decor of the aftcastle. 👍

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I especially like the more ornate frames around the windows.  It give a more “romantic” feel to the ship that is typical of pirate movies and such.  It reminds me of the Neptune galleon in Genoa, which was built for Roman Polanski’s pirate movie (not a great movie, but the ship is amazing):

 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neptune_(galleon)

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I have an idea on how you can add some “action” to the cannons.  In the sketch below, it is a side view.  The cannon is mounted on a vertical “slider” made of styrene or wood, which goes down through a long slit in the lower deck, and ends at a crosspiece BELOW the deck which will keep the slider from coming out of the deck when the cannon is moved.  You may also need some kind of crosspiece on the slider ABOVE the deck as well (I didn’t draw that one) to keep the slider from sinking down into the deck.  Basically, there is rigging line attached to the gunport lid, which goes through a hole above it, is then tied to the breech of the cannon, and then comes out again through a hole below the gunport:

 

image.thumb.jpeg.a437f4c79e49f5baa04ed1ff3f010684.jpeg

 

When you pull on the line below the gunport, the tension will open the gunport lid (door) and move the cannon forward at the same time, as it slides forward in the slit in the lower deck (see the directions of the arrows):

 

image.thumb.jpeg.a0ca508009bde11fe97d5143d253ee58.jpeg

 

When the ports are open, you can mostly “hide” the line that you pulled on by tucking it in through the gunport.  When you want to close the gunports, “untuck” the line so that it is outside again, start to slide the cannons back with your fingers, and as the gunports start to close, you can push them closed the rest of the way.

 

This system might theoretically work, but I haven’t tried it.  Maybe it is worth experimenting?

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I was thinking more about the above scheme and realized that the rigging line cannot be tied to the breech, because the length of line between the gunport door and the cannon actually has to shorten as you pull the line in order for the door (lid) to open as the cannon moves forward.  In order to do this, it may be better to drill a hole in the metal cannon somewhere in the rear of the cannon, vertically (top to bottom) so that you can feed the line through it.  When you pull on the line below the gunport, the line will then slide through the cannon, moving it forward as the door opens.

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Very nice! Ver6 close to what I had in mind. If you look above in to my gun port lids, u will see I have attached 2 rings. So im thinking top part will function like u have in ur discription. Only it will be 2 chains going above in to the hull. And hooked up to the cannon/cariage and 2 lines coming ouy from the port and hooked back up to the gun port lid. That way closing or opening it should pull the canon in the right direction

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It will be very time consuming per canon. I need a rope/chain entry in to the hull. Driling a hole wont suffice. I have started on some decor-square pices to mount to run the chain thru. Not much luck yet on production. I will need around 46 entry points. Pieces I am trying to make arpund 1 mm thick

 Very hard to cut identical thikness. Almost imposible to sand after as they are tiny

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Can you do something like this?

 

image.thumb.jpeg.72587597df919c1ebe354bfeff96666b.jpeg

 

I’ve seen this kind of arrangement before.  Here’s a photo of a gunport on the HMS Surprise replica in San Diego:

 

image.thumb.jpeg.c2ef2621f6f9b381632df3e59771e513.jpeg

 

I think that this way, you would only need half as many entry points into the hull.

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