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Jeff T

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Everything posted by Jeff T

  1. Here is another thought for the windows, if you would like: You can repaint them black first, and let them thoroughly dry. Then, mix a VERY small amount of white acrylic into a bit of your clear polyurethane varnish, so that when you paint that mixture over the black, you will get a very slightly hazy gloss — this can simulate a slightly dirty glass window outside the dark cabin.
  2. When following Backer's log on his scratch-built Golden Hind 1/45 scale, I wondered how I would also solve the problem of the mainstay coming down to the beakhead, because the rigging instructions by Revell do not do it that way, and I wanted to follow a plan more like that outlined by Peter Kirsch in his Galleon book, referenced previously in this log. So I did a crude preliminary test, but keep in mind, doing anything concrete with the rigging will still be a long way off for me: Fortunately, it looks like I will likely be abl
  3. Robert, The topics linked by Ryland Craze have some good recommendations. I am afraid that my own pair of magnifiers is not as fancy as what is discussed in those links. I have plastic lenses, not glass, but so far, they have lasted over three years. This is what I have: I cannot remember the brand name. For the lighting, I use an LED penlight that takes a single AAA battery (I use rechargeable, which last over 2 hours at a time). The LED penlight is mounted on the frame of the magnifier by means of velcro so that I can remove it to change the battery.
  4. Bill, I really like your weathering on the hull. The simulated caulking of the deck boards is a nice touch.
  5. Going under the railing is definitely a way to do it. On a replica here in San Diego of a galleon ship that sailed in 1542, the mainstay also travels under the railing: An interesting thing is how after the fore part of the mainstay is stropped around a deadeye, the two limbs are first “seized” together, then they separate to go around the foremast as a “loop” rather than sit together to one side of it or the other. Here is how it looks from the forecastle: It still attaches to the beakhead rather than the foremast. But what appears to be th
  6. Very nice, Robert! Sometimes, the smaller the scale, the tougher the project. I use a head-mounted magnifying pair of lenses, but that still doesn’t solve the “shaking hand” problem that looks like an earthquake through them 🙂.
  7. Masking tape residue may be removed with mineral spirits. Using odorless mineral spirits, gently applied with a soft brush and then blotted off with a very soft cloth, may work. Brush bristles and cloths can potentially scratch the clear plastic, so you have to be very careful, however it may take a little light brushing with the odorless mineral spirits to loosen the sticky residue, and you may need to do it more than once to get it all off. It’s important not to use the mineral spirits in standard paint thinner because it may be mixed with another chemical that may harm plastic. Since th
  8. Steven, I like this idea that you used for keeping your sail from deforming when you cut it. I will keep the technique in mind when it comes time for me to cut my own lateen sail.
  9. Thank you for your kind comments. Making these modifications takes extra time and fuss, but I think it is worth it.
  10. Here it is after the base color and the holes for the capstan bars were painted: I used the same type of paint (Testors enamel) that I often use for plastic parts in the kit, so in order to apply one of the same enamel "washes" that I have used previously for weathering, I first needed to apply an acrylic isolation coat (a clear gloss): Here it is after the weathering: Pictured next to one of the sailors (yet to be painted): I think the scale is reasonably close. I know that the proportions of
  11. I attached a temporary stand to the base of the capstan and set it up on my hand drill held in place with a vise: When I had spun it with the drill, sanding it down with a makeshift "sanding block", it looked like this: I also modified the whelps a bit: After I marked and drilled the holes for the capstan bars (which I will not mount or include, since the ship will be at sail and the anchors will be up), I squared off the round holes the best that I could: After the whelps were glu
  12. The kit includes parts for a windlass which would be assembled, painted black, and placed on the main deck: I decided not to use it for my galleon. At the Maritime Museum of San Diego, the replica of a mid-sixteenth century Spanish galleon, San Salvador, was well-researched and is supposed to be as authentic as possible for a galleon of its time period, so I oftentimes look to it for ideas. It has a capstan instead of a windlass: Here is the size of the capstan with respect to the size of a person: I see that in Peter
  13. Very impressive job with all those oarsmen — looks like this model could be a museum piece!
  14. My best wishes for strength for you and your family in these difficult times.
  15. Robert, I hope your family member recovers soon — my thoughts are with you. Your model is looking very good — it’s great to see all that rigging in place so far! 👍🏻
  16. The hull is now painted below the waterline. The first photo shows it covered above the waterline masking and ready to paint: This next one shows how it looked after it was sprayed with multiple coats of a slightly off-white paint from a spray can ("rattle can"). I used an enamel paint because in my experience enamel adheres better to plastic than acrylic. Multiple coats were necessary because I wanted an opaque, uniform color, and the dark hull not to show through. Here are a few views after the masking was removed and a little "
  17. Robert, this is one way in which the English Man O’ War differs from the Spanish Galleon. The two kits apparently share the same mold for the main deck, so that hole exists in both. However, the Spanish Galleon only has three masts (instead of four as in the English Man O’ War). The Spanish Galleon’s mizzen mast is actually placed further aft than what you see with the Man O’ War, since there is no bonaventure mast in the Galleon. In the Spanish Galleon, the mizzen is placed on the quarterdeck, and it does not go down completely to the deck below. I hope this helps explain it.
  18. Thanks, Bill! I am aware that it likely does not represent a specific ship, and there are some problems with proportions. Some old paintings do show very high sterncastles (and forecastles, for that matter) on Spanish galleons. But since there is so much variability in the galleons’ appearances in the paintings, I am not sure if the artists were intent on making their paintings entirely accurate in the lines of the ships. I am a bit bothered by how high the masts are in this model, so I have decided to make upper masts and spars out of wood to lessen their length a bit, going more for pr
  19. Thanks, Nino. The lacquer is not perfect in preventing an occasional small “chip”, but it does a reasonably good job.
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