Planking Caldercraft HM BARK ENDEAVOUR

[Graham Tonge]

Good morning all.  I am looking for some advice on 1st planking for Caldercraft 1:64 HM BARK ENDEAVOUR please see photo’s.  I am reasonably happy with the bow but welcome any further advice with this area.  I am have more concerns with the stern as not not sure how to proceed as you can see I have place the first 4 planks the 4th then twists to go onto bulkhead 15 I am not sure this is correct.  Also the rest of the planking down to the keel.  Any advice / assistance would be very helpful as I donor want to make a mess of this.  Lastly instructions say start planking from mid deck down would this be better to plank from keel up

[Danstream]

What I see is that you are putting all the strakes so far perfectly parallel and with no tapering. I think you should have started to taper from the second one. There are good tutorials on this site showing that (see the first pinned post by @Chuck).

Good luck,

Dan.

Edited March 1, 2021 by Danstream

[allanyed]

Dan is correct in that the planks need to be tapered at the bow plus they need to widen at the stern.   If this is a two layer model the first layer does not to be done this way but makes very good practice for the second layer of planking.  If the planking you show is the only layer it should be taken off and started again.  You will need to figure the number of strakes then mark the spacing at the stern, midships and at the bow plus a number of frames in between then use these to have the width of the plank at the various points.   Study the planking tutorials here at MSW for details on doing this.  The tutorials by David Antscherl and by Chuck Passaro are extremely helpful.

Allan

[Graham Tonge]

Hi Dan/Allan

many thanks for your reply’s very helpful.  Allan this is a two plank kit but I will still remove fitted planks as want to get this right.  I did find it strange that I had carried out no tapering with the first four planks.  Due to the severe bend at the bows I found it difficult to mark out for taper, and planking seemed to full I place without this.    I will watch the tutorials and make good mistakes

 

thanks Graham

 

 

[allanyed]

Graham,  Your decision to give it a go is a very good one.   Once you have done this one time you will have a good understanding.   The tutorials should help you a lot on marking out the widths at each frame/bulkhead.   It is as simple as taking a piece of card and holding against the bulk head from top to bottom to get the full length, then dividing into the number of strakes of plank to go on to get the width.   Little errors can be corrected on subsequent planks.

Allan

[Mr Pleasant]

Hi Graeme

Here's some photo's of when I built this model, hope you find them useful

 

Mr P.

[Landlubber Mike]

I didn't build this one, and I think it has a bluff bow, but I would echo that at the bow, it's better to start tapering from the beginning.  The first few planks will look ok, but then as you add more runs, you'll get a clinking effect.  Not a big deal if it will be sanded off in preparation for the second planking, but better to have a trial run with how much tapering will be needed.  I didn't quite understand the concept of marking the hull with planking bands and dividing up the distance at each bulkhead, but after getting through it with my first build, it now makes complete sense.  It's more work on the front end, but less work to have to sand, fill, etc. on the back end.

 

At the stern, the last couple of bulkheads and associated tuck into the counter always seem to require a lot more fairing of the bulkheads than one would think.  And frankly, I've found you usually have to start the fairing a few bulkheads ahead of the last few in order to have a nice curve going into the counter.  Otherwise, you can get a sharp line in the planking run between the last bulkhead and the stern counter.  Again, the first couple of planks may look ok, but after five or six, you realize you might have a problem.

 

It might be too late here, but I'm now a convert to using filler blocks at the bow and stern.  Takes quite a bit of work in the front end to get them in, but then the planking goes so much smoother.  In particular, you have a nice stable base of support to glue the plank down and run it into the bow and stern instead of relying only on gluing points along the bow and stern and preceding bulkhead.