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Lady Nelson by Jasseji - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64 Scale


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With that clamp in the middle and just the table to iron on not sure how you’re heating enough or long enough to hold the curve. 

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: HMS Winchelsea
Completed Builds: HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

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35 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

With that clamp in the middle and just the table to iron on not sure how you’re heating enough or long enough to hold the curve. 

oh, that middle clamp i have added at the end, after ironing for around 2 minutes

Jacek

 

Current Build: HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models 1/64 

On Hold/Parallel: Lady Nelson - Amati/Victory Models 1/64

 

 

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Decided i dont want to fight with the Walnut anymore (still need to for the 6 port strakes until the Waterline tho) so i used Tanganika and took a shortcut.

Using the Shortcut meant, i could finish the Starboard Hull in between actually working at work.

 

Sake of Sanity really in a place which will be covered by a layer of Paint

 

image.png.bfbcfe174a91766887432201589ceef5.png

 

Still need to do the port side, 6 strakes walnut until the waterline, rest will be the Tanganika i have (which means finding a day when i can get rid of the Kid and wife for a few hours in one session)

 

Question: does acrylics stick to oiled wood ? I wanted to see how it looks when i oil her

Edited by Jasseji

Jacek

 

Current Build: HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models 1/64 

On Hold/Parallel: Lady Nelson - Amati/Victory Models 1/64

 

 

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The wavy walnut line is a tapering issue along with plank bending shortfall.  Basically you started the taper too far back from the stem. H We’ve all been there.

 

You can paint over dry Wipe On Poly, I don’t know about oil, I wouldn’t think acrylics and oil go together

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: HMS Winchelsea
Completed Builds: HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

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4 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

The wavy walnut line is a tapering issue along with plank bending shortfall.  Basically you started the taper too far back from the stem. H We’ve all been there.

 

You can paint over dry Wipe On Poly, I don’t know about oil, I wouldn’t think acrylics and oil go together

 

You mean this wavy line ?

image.png.da7fec0a1d4adc65c85486054979b9c7.png

 

So, the taper should be started more forward (in the area of bulkheads 3/4 ) instead of starting from Bulkhead 5 ?

 

I will attempt changes on the other hull half, one of the sides will never be visible when on display anyway so i can choose which side looks better

Jacek

 

Current Build: HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models 1/64 

On Hold/Parallel: Lady Nelson - Amati/Victory Models 1/64

 

 

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Yes. Lay the next plank down up tight to the one above it at midships and run your finger forward. There is a point where it won’t lay flush and wants to cross the plank above it. Mark that point, it is where your taper starts. It varies as you move down the hull, not a single spot. 
 

It has to be done from the start, it won’t fix a severe mistake, to do that you have to over-correct a lot, can’t explain how on that one, or start over. Lining the hull is more work but keeps you on track,. For LN being such a small hull you can skip that and measure the height of the stem from the keel to the master plank (a full width plank generally about equal to deck level) and divide by the number of full width planks at midships. The result (like 2.3mm for example) is the width of the plank at the stem. So taper from the mark you made to 2.3, plank bend it to conform and do the next one. Recheck your stem measurement every 4 planks or so to update the stem width, hard to be perfect. If your line gets wavy either your mark or your measurement is incorrect so adjust. 
 

it’s your first model, it won’t be perfect. My advice is to try to do it right, shortcuts won’t help you on the second model. 

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: HMS Winchelsea
Completed Builds: HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

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I had the same issue with my first planking of my alert (though to a slightly lesser degree). You can see the wiggle below.

287801443_PXL_20210830_0128285582.jpg.c94f53f3734dc643df19d27077dfe2e9.thumb.jpg.a0df4934b8e3ae3c9ac0d5752a3a7acc.jpg

 

The problem was caused by two main issues. First I didn't start tapering at the bow soon enough, I did one two many full sized planks (this appears to be part of your problem). This meant that the flow of the planks didn't sweep upward like it was meant to. Then I didn't line up my string on the lining off process correctly and so the planks were tapering two much at the second bulkhead and not enough at the bow (at times the taper at the second bulkhead was pretty much the same as the bow).

 

The only way I can think to really correct this is to take off the planking up to where the wales will go and then line off your hull to make sure the sweep of the planks looks right. If you are not willing to do that then you will probably just have to live with the wiggle.

Edited by Thukydides
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34 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Yes. Lay the next plank down up tight to the one above it at midships and run your finger forward. There is a point where it won’t lay flush and wants to cross the plank above it. Mark that point, it is where your taper starts. It varies as you move down the hull, not a single spot. 
 

It has to be done from the start, it won’t fix a severe mistake, to do that you have to over-correct a lot, can’t explain how on that one, or start over. Lining the hull is more work but keeps you on track,. For LN being such a small hull you can skip that and measure the height of the stem from the keel to the master plank (a full width plank generally about equal to deck level) and divide by the number of full width planks at midships. The result (like 2.3mm for example) is the width of the plank at the stem. So taper from the mark you made to 2.3, plank bend it to conform and do the next one. Recheck your stem measurement every 4 planks or so to update the stem width, hard to be perfect. If your line gets wavy either your mark or your measurement is incorrect so adjust. 
 

it’s your first model, it won’t be perfect. My advice is to try to do it right, shortcuts won’t help you on the second model. 

Oh i'm not touching the Starboard side, i consider it finished and the Wave will be hidden under paint.

 

I missed somewhere the info about "the point of tapering", i was under the impression, that the taper should start immiedately from the widest bulkhead (so bulkhead 5 in case of the LN).

 

On the portside i only have the 2 untapered Wale Strakes fitted by now, i will do the tapering there as you describe it 

Jacek

 

Current Build: HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models 1/64 

On Hold/Parallel: Lady Nelson - Amati/Victory Models 1/64

 

 

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You may have to prime that side, white over light and dark may not be even in color, or maybe it will. 

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: HMS Winchelsea
Completed Builds: HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

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1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

You may have to prime that side, white over light and dark may not be even in color, or maybe it will. 

A Primer seemed neccessary anyway due to the color Variations of the Walnut strips

Edited by Jasseji

Jacek

 

Current Build: HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models 1/64 

On Hold/Parallel: Lady Nelson - Amati/Victory Models 1/64

 

 

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