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Posted

Starting over is so hard!  I've forgotten alot of what i was doing.  But getting back into it, i'm trying to finish up the chainplates.  I had started one, and thought i'd make the other 5 before installing them all, but in looking at the little tiny holes, I can't for the llife of me figure out how I made them???   The brass strip is 1/16", and I am trying to use a #61 little drill bit for my little finger drill, but it doesn't want to go through the brass strip.  Is that the right tool?  I did it before, but can't figure out how!  

 

PS - pay no attention to the rudimentary work.  It'll take awhile to get good at this!

 

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Posted

I'm not sure either without a drill press that can handle #61 bits. The problem with the narrow strip is that it's really hard to mark it enough to prevent the drill bit from skating without also distorting the strip. Not to mention distorting the strip in the actual drilling. 

 

I think you used magic. Did you use magic? :)

 

Posted

 Lynn, most likely is the #61 drill bit has dulled. As much as we would like for you to have magic fingers I'm betting the bit has dulled. Is the 61 the smallest you have?

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

Lynn, a trick I sometimes use when trying to drill a difficult hole, is to drill a small pilot hole with a much smaller bit and then follow up with the actual larger bit. What this does is help guide the real bit not to jump or skate around as you get started. The tiny bit is easier to hold in place as it gets going. You can also try making a dimple in the material with some kind of sharp object (like a nail) that will also help hold the bit's tip in place while it gets started. It's easier to "punch" a dimple into metal than it is to get a spinning drill bit to stay exactly where it's put on a smooth surface. This is even helpful when combined with the small pilot hole trick.

 

 

Posted
16 hours ago, vossiewulf said:

I think you used magic. Did you use magic? :)

Apparently I did 😁!  Maybe its time to buy some new tools, like a drill press!

 

16 hours ago, Keith Black said:

I'm betting the bit has dulled. Is the 61 the smallest you have?

You are probably right.  It seems dull.  My #61 is actually the BIGGEST I have.  I'll try using a smaller size!

 

3 hours ago, Cathead said:

a trick I sometimes use when trying to drill a difficult hole, is to drill a small pilot hole with a much smaller bit

This sounds like a good approach.  I will try it.  And my practice drilling had the bit jumping and sliding all over the place, so I will try to make a "dimple" with the smallest nail I can find.

 

Thanks for all the advice!  I'll keep plugging away!

Posted

A bit of success!  These chainplates don't look all that great, but for me, my goal was to make 5 of them, with three tiny holes in each of the 1/16" strips of brass.

I found a couple alternative options, since my little drill bits weren't working.  I could buy a mini drill press for $129!!!

OR use a thumbtack and a little "reamer" tool I already had!  I went for the cheaper option!   These still need alot of work, but hey, I have achieved HOLES!

I hammered the thumbtack in a little bit, but if it went too far, it would create too big a hole and split the brass.  So I only hammered it in about 1/8", and then used the reaming tool to open up the hole to the correct diameter.  It was still difficult to keep the hole in the exact center of the strip, but they'll look better (I hope!) once they're installed, painted, and the little nails are attached!

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Posted

 Lynn, we've all been where you were, not having the right tool for a job or the correct tool not working as it should. But we preserver using whatever it takes to accomplish the goal. Love seeing the perseverance, good job.  

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted

It helps to rough the surface of brass with fine sandpaper or steel wool before painting or blackening. This gives the metal some "tooth" for the paint to grip. But use very fine abrasives so you don't gouge deep scratches in the metal. Use 400 to 600 grit sandpaper or #0000 steel wool.

 

Also, be sure the brass is very clean! Wash it with acetone or rubbing alcohol to remove grease and fingerprints. I sometimes wash with dish detergent and rinse thoroughly before washing with acetone or alcohol - just to be sure.

 

You can also etch the surface with acetic acid (vinegar) or Sparex (sodium bisulfate). Vinegar does a minimal job, and is slow. Warm Sparex does a better job. If you are trying to blacken a large surface etching first will produce a more even coating.

Phil

 

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

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