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Santissima Trinidad by ECK - FINISHED - OcCre - 1:90


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So after finishing HMS Diana this will be my next build. I also received HMS Sphinx for Christmas  but likely will start in in the fall after this build. Unfortunately there seems to be issues with uploading pictures which others have noted. Tried loading on at the time. No difference from what I did before with Diana.

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Sorry I am missing the framing pictures but I think there was something in the way they were saved that messed things up. I have been debating on how the put in the planking/ Most other kits have a second layer to hide the pins. Others remove the pins while others still have the pins half in then clipped and filed down. For the above the waterline white wood I will glue them without pins. Will try either superglue or contact to kep gaps tight. For the lower dark wood area I will likely pi then clip and file.

 

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IMG_5059.thumb.jpeg.e6a18d035b72e6c89800e4a5031281ec.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here is the work to date. Slow going since it is no a double planked hull with thinner wood which is easier to form. The 5mm would dose not bend well and when soaked expands a lot so have to fit it and let dry before gluing and pinning. Will be using a lot of stealers. The hull does not curve well.

 

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I file out the false keel and prow spaces later for a tighter fit.

 

 

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Thanks. She is actually smaller than the Caldercraft Diane and Agamemnon length given 1:92 scale although hull is taller. What I am really waiting to do is the Amati 1:64 Victory when it ever gets released.

 

 

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My first ship was the DeAgostini Victory. Although big the instructions were so voluminous that learnt a lot for the other ships I have built whose instructions were certainly minimal. I have built DeAgosini's Victory, Soleil, Constitution and my favorite of the group, Surprise. See my Diane build posts where I have pictures of them.

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I prefer to double plan as it is forgiving of errors. In past models that means 2 thinner layers (which are much easier to bend) but the model calls for single planking. I could put on a 0.5 mm veneer on the lower hull but would have to order it. I am going to put on the strakes and stain and see how it looks. Can always add after to lower hull. Upper hull looks fine once the strakes go on.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Eck

Your construction looks very clean and precise. 

One question I have had for a long time that maybe you or some other member can answer.   In looking at build logs here over the past years I have gotten more and more curious about the style of the planking pattern.   Why are so many kit models planked this way instead of the way a ship was actually planked?  Are these erroneous instructions from the kit makers?  I understand the double planking allows for correcting errors in fairing the hull, but why the unrealistic  pattern?  Other than the occasional drop strake, all the strakes should end at the rabbet.  The pic below shows the area to which I am referring.

Thanks

Allan

 

610721962_Plankinglayout.JPG.f15dfa26c2ad28598f6bb9115ff63ced.JPG

 

 

 

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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I find the hull the most difficult. To do it proper requires tabling and calculating the taper at each rib (or do the override and trim as in the Caldercraft instructions). If you copper and paint, nobody will see it .

IMG_5174.thumb.jpeg.7bc4c18a8dc672ed6f83de372fb00695.jpeg

 

Here are the instructions from various ships I have built. Some use stealers. Below is this build, Santisimo Trinadad

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Here is HMS Surprise

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Here is USS Constitution

 

IMG_5175.thumb.jpeg.8f4230ca19c18642cd10142d3f1ab2fd.jpeg

 

Here is Soleil Royale

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It is easier to do if you do a second planking as strips thinner.  My next ship in the wings (HMS Sphynx by Vanguard) has a painted lower hull so nobody would know but I will try to do it "correctly" as I can hide the attempt with paint later if I mess up.  What I am truly waiting for is the Amati 1:64 Victory where I will try to do it properly although if coppered and painted still will not see the efforts.

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Thanks Eck!  I thought the kit might be the problem and your post confirmed the designers of this kit, at least, have no idea how planking was actually done or maybe don't think it is important.

 

You mention copper bottoming covering the planking.  Unfortunately most kit supplied plating is as bad as the planking instructions.  With one or two exceptions of kit makers, the plating looks like that in the photos above in that they  have huge pimples that look like giant rivets instead of tiny dents from the 1/4" nails that were used.  At 1:98 or even 1:64, it is probably better to use copper tape with no markings at all.  Then once the plates are applied and overlapped like shingles, as was actually done,  it is not that difficult to use a pin to push in tiny dents which is what the nailing would look like.  At 1:98 or similar scale, it may be better not to try to show the nail pattern as the dents would only be about 0.005" diameter 😀

 

I look forward to your progress here and on Victory.  If you do not already have one, be sure to get a copy of Longridge's Anatomy of Nelson's Ships when you start the Victory model.  It will help your build immensely.    

 

Allan

  

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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To be honest, Allan, the planking instructions supplied are woeful! I guess, at this level, OcCre thought everyone would have the experience to know how to plank without detailed instruction 😒

In this respect, the DA version is better. Admittedly, theirs is twice the price, and double planked.

Edited by RockinBudgie
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That's nice looking start. I saw bit of the discussion regarding the planking. I can share my thoughts on this after planking my Victory many years ago. I'm nowhere near being an expert in this but during my build there was plenty of discussions on DeAgostini forum regarding the planking. It all boils down to two aspects - measure 5 times, cut once. Do it slowly and glue the plank in place once you are certain that it is the right way. When it comes to the tapering the planks I always used the method that I didn't go narrower than half width. When two planks taper down to half of their width you just adding single drop plank  to continue. Also when you taper them you start gradually so you don't get yourself in the situation that it gets really tight. 

I would share some of my pics if I didn't loose them unfortunately. What I can remember mine was single planked but I ended up using very little filler at the end. Right now it is all painted and copper plated but my next build will be definitely wood only too show it properly.

 

Happy build and we can't wait for more updates.

 

Regards

Tom

Current Builds:

HMS Victory by DeAgostini 1/84

HMS Victory Build

 

We don't stop playing because we grow old... we grow old because we stop playing...

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Actually the first ship I ever built was the DeAgostini Victory. Instructions for a beginner were good and well illustrated so I learnt a lot.The hull is truly the hardest to do. Only other problem in many kits is the way the lower deadeyes are set up.

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Eck - You have a very nice ship in progress. You clearly have done this multiple times and know your way around these builds. Looking back I’m sure most of us ( I can!) can identify areas we would like to have done better. The ST is massive and must be a more difficult model to plank absolutely correctly, especially given scale. I hope you will focus on what is going right in your build as she looks splendid!

Rob

 

active projects: HMS Victory, Mamoli 1/90 scale

 

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Thanks. It takes some modifications at times as things do not always fit like the plans show.  I was pleasantly surprised that the missing gunports came in in 2 weeks. Interestingly, the parts that came with the kit were dull cast metal that I had to paint black whereas the replacements were a nice bronze color which you see in the assembly manual. So unfortunately I had to paint them black.Original upper left replacements bottom right.

 

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  'Love your build.  I'm no planking expert, but what is not seen in the final version should bother anyone.  One should build to suit ones self.

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

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Here is the stern. A bit different than the plan for several reasons: Things did not line up and in the plan pictures it actually shows thins lining up differently from each other. Also looked a bit incomplete . The etched parts just do not look good and it would have been better if the windows and columns were put in separately for better depth.

 

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