HMAV Bounty by fifthace - Caldercraft - 1:64

[fifthace]

Greetings folks.

It's been a while since I last battled with timber, I got lost in plastic, but I decided I wanted to return to wood. Having learned new skills and improved on existing ones, I felt I could probably do a better job than my previous efforts.

And to start with, I wanted to right a wrong on the last ship I completed, HMAV Bounty.



On the last one there were a number of errors, most glaringly was the main rubbing strake. It sweeps too low, way too low, at the bow, and it's annoyed me for years. Plus I enjoyed the kit last time, it was a good quality kit with only one minor issue: the length of the centre section of the keel is a few mm too short. Wasn't a problem last time as I coppered the hull as per the kit, I am not planning on doing that this time as it is subject to a lot of doubt as to whether she received that upgrade before leaving Portsmouth (or was it Plymouth?) for the last time.

I also invested in some new tools that I didn't have before, and a proper slipway rather than a home made one. Following the general consensus on here I was directed to the Model Shipways one, which I have to say is pretty good. My only gripe with it is it's designed for ships that have the keel already attached, so at the moment it isn't easy to get it to sit level, but that's not an issue at this stage anyway.



I also wanted to try a better method of the hard sanding work, using my Dremel and the sanding discs attachement ezclic thingy, and I have to say it makes that job soooo much easier.



Anyway, so far I have got the keel/bulkheads assembled, false deck fitted and the majority of the fairing done on the bulkheads. Time to soak some planks and work on the bit I hate the most, planking the hull...

Thanks for stopping by...

[LyleK1]

Good luck with the build.

Although I am not building the Caldercraft version of the Bounty, I am building the another version.

Feel free to stop by for a look!

I'll be watching along as you go.

[fifthace]

Thanks.

I was looking at the AL version, but as it's been a while I went with what I knew. I may do the AL one next...

I try to avoid looking at others' logs as I always end up envious of the sheer skills of some people lol, and I was right, you've done a fab job on that.

[LyleK1]

9 hours ago, fifthace said:

Thanks.

I was looking at the AL version, but as it's been a while I went with what I knew. I may do the AL one next...

I try to avoid looking at others' logs as I always end up envious of the sheer skills of some people lol, and I was right, you've done a fab job on that.

I certainly wasn't trying to make anyone envious!

I'm always learning, just like you!

Thanks for the kind comment, though.

[fifthace]

Morning folks.

Made a start on the first planking.

Not bad for a days work considering it's been a good 5 years or so since I have done anything like this.

Had one minor issue at the bow, one side the first top plank had slipped down without me noticing, so I had to add a new piece above it to bring it back in line. Not sure how all the other planks below still remained in line with the other side though, not complaining however.

[AJohnson]

Hi,

 

Regarding the copper plating, I thought that issue was resolved long ago, as they have been pulling copper plates out the resting place of Bounty in Pitcairn for years?  (A quick search on the web got me these links in a few minutes.)

 

https://www.bbc.co.uk/ahistoryoftheworld/objects/v8RrCz_SRtCcGn6qcOQXsA

 

https://yesterdaysisland.com/artifact-wreck-bounty/

 

 

Edited March 2, 2022 by AJohnson

[allanyed]

Andrew, 

 

Thank you for posting these sites.  On the first is a photo of the nails along what looks like a two pence piece.   The two pence is 1.04" diameter and the nails look to be right at or very close to 0.25" diameter (with 0.5" heads).  This confirms information from Goodwin's Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War.  Anyone coppering Bounty or any other ship should take note of this as the stuff in the kits seen here at MSW has huge pimples  or etched circles that are, at scale, closer to 2" in diameter, or larger,  instead of tiny dents.  Those that have made their own with copper tape and  attention is paid to these tiny nail indentations do a better job than the kit makers.    

Thanks again for the links.

 

Allan

Edited March 2, 2022 by allanyed

[fifthace]

44 minutes ago, AJohnson said:

Hi,

 

Regarding the copper plating, I thought that issue was resolved long ago, as they have been pulling copper plates out the resting place of Bounty in Pitcairn for years?  (A quick search on the web got me these links in a few minutes.)

 

https://www.bbc.co.uk/ahistoryoftheworld/objects/v8RrCz_SRtCcGn6qcOQXsA

 

https://yesterdaysisland.com/artifact-wreck-bounty/

 

 

Thanks, I'd never come across either of those articles when I was looking into it 5 or 6 years ago, and obviously didn't bother looking into it at all this time around.

Guess I will be coppering her then lol

[Mike Dowling]

Well, greetings after a very long abscence!!! Good to find you back again. I shall be watching you!!! 

What actually is the dremel sandy thingy that you have found. It look good and I might want one too.

[Daveruss]

Coming along nicely, this kit was my second and it makes a great model when done. My finished one is on here somewhere. Now onto a 1/78 HMS Victory a whole different beast. Good luck with the Bounty.

[fifthace]

18 hours ago, Mike Dowling said:

Well, greetings after a very long abscence!!! Good to find you back again. I shall be watching you!!! 

What actually is the dremel sandy thingy that you have found. It look good and I might want one too.

Wow, hello indeed Mike.

I mean these, the Dremel Madrell attachment and EZ SpeedClic sanding discs, with the flexible attachment.
(I was going to post a couple of pics from B&Q but I didn't have permission, so here is the link instead)

HERE

 

[Mike Dowling]

Many thanks for the link. I found the mandrell attachment and the discs but not the flexible attachment. Help!!

[fifthace]

On 3/3/2022 at 9:56 AM, Mike Dowling said:

Many thanks for the link. I found the mandrell attachment and the discs but not the flexible attachment. Help!!

Try this Google search: Google

[Mike Dowling]

No, not that bit! The bit behind the sanding discs.

[fifthace]

14 hours ago, Mike Dowling said:

No, not that bit! The bit behind the sanding discs.

So, the mandrel then? I thought you said you'd found that?

This gold and silver part that the disc clips into? Search for "dremel mandrel"

[Mike Dowling]

No matey! I am now guessing that there is some king of attachment on one side of the sanding discs?

[fifthace]

On 3/5/2022 at 1:40 PM, Mike Dowling said:

No matey! I am now guessing that there is some king of attachment on one side of the sanding discs?

Ahhh, riiight, now I am with you.

Yes, the disc you buy are purposely made by Dremel for the ezclic system, and have a metal lug on the underside.

[fifthace]

I am making a god awful effort on this first planking, I was much more out of practice than I realised. It's like I forgot everything I learned.

However, I know where I went wrong, this is the first planking so doesn't matter so much, as long as the contours and general shape is right, which it is, and it's smooth, which it will be, I can make sure I get it right with the second layer.

Anyway, for shame, here is the monstrosity I have created thus far...

[Mike Dowling]

It's not that bad!! I remember when I first started how encouraging you were to me and it's no worse than mine was.

[fifthace]

Greetings.

So, 1st planking is finished. Wasn't as much as a chore as I remember, despite me breaking just about every rule there is when it comes to planking. It's done nonetheless, and won't be visible after anyway. It's solid, smooth and the correct shape which is the main thing.

Initial planking:

 

 

After basic sanding:

 

And after filling and further sanding:

 

I also planked the transom, rather than use the walnut false piece:

 

And finally, I added a filler to correct Caldercraft's short cut on the false deck, so it butts up directly to the stern gallery piece:




My next task is to try and work out the correct shift pattern for the second planking. Caldercraft just says to plank in full length. I did that last time and I didn't like the result.

I am not having much luck working out what the shift pattern is however, any info would be appreciated...



Thanks

[fifthace]

Morning.

I've made a start on the second planking. Had a few issues with things I forgot to do/didn't know how to do, but thanks to some help on here I think I am back on course.

Garboard was too far forward. I didn't know how to edge bend planks (which I now do). Not the greatest job in the world compared to some who have been doing this for years, but certainly an improvement for me.

 

[fifthace]

Hello.

Very quick update. Second planking is finished, now time to sand it and try and make it look like I didn't do such a half assed job on it haha.

2 Drops at the bow, 3 at the stern.

 

[fifthace]

Update:

I decided in the end to go with a white hull rather than copper it, although that remains an option for the moment. I had a battle with the white. For some reason I had half a dozen individual planks on each side seeming to leach colour through, despite being sealed beforehand. After a few coats of white I decided to use an automotive grey primer first and voila! No more leaching.

Well, until I started with the white again anyway and there it was, old friend came back. In the end it took 6 light coats with an airbrush to get it to cover properly.

I managed to get the main wale into the right place this time, although the yellow ochre trim has ended up slightly lower at the stern on one side, but nothing I can't fix later.

I stained the upper section with walnut as the colour had faded with all the sanding and it was very light beige.

Just a couple of minor waterline issues to fix at the bow.

[LyleK1]

Really nice work!

[Dave_E]

2 minutes ago, LyleK1 said:

Really nice work!

I’ll second that! Nice paint! 👍

[fifthace]

Hello.

Main deck now done. I know in reality the deck planks would have most likely been laid in one single length, but I like the look of a 4 shift pattern.

I used a graphite pencil for the simulated caulking, and after sanding smooth with various grades, I sealed it using a rattlecan Halfords Clear Lacquer which soaked into the wood, bringing out the grain and leaving it butter smooth.

Why did I use a lacquer? Because it works. (This is where someone tells me it will look ok now but in 10 years time will turn purple with yellow spots lol)

I will still polish with beeswax as soon as it arrives, once I ascertain if I will still be able to use adhesive for the deck furniture as not sure how that works.
I also have some Danish Oil on order for a future build.

[Mike Dowling]

Very good, you certainly have not lost your touch!

[Dave_E]

You ship is looking very good Sir! Thanks for the clear lacquer tip for the decks, I might do that. I really like your paint collection. Question; how old is some of that paint and how long do you think the shelf life is?

[fifthace]

1 hour ago, Dave_E said:

You ship is looking very good Sir! Thanks for the clear lacquer tip for the decks, I might do that. I really like your paint collection. Question; how old is some of that paint and how long do you think the shelf life is?

Thanks

Most of it is Tamiya. They are a few years old now and are fine. I airbrush 90% of the time anyway so I just thin as needed, but I haven't noticed any of it thicken up with time.

The few Admiralty paints you can see in the background of my last post are a good 5 years old now, and they are all still perfect.

[LyleK1]

6 hours ago, fifthace said:

Hello.

Main deck now done. I know in reality the deck planks would have most likely been laid in one single length, but I like the look of a 4 shift pattern.

 

 

 

 

I'm fairly certain the decks was laid in a similar pattern to what you have done! 

Looks good!