Charles W Morgan by dogface - Model Shipways - 1:64

[dogface]

Hey everyone,

 

Thought I should start my own build log for my Charles W. Morgan.  However, when I started the build, I hadn't really looked at other build logs and of course by the time I did, I had already made an embarrassing mistake.  The pictures below show the error -- I neglected to make sure the plankshear on both port and starboard sides ran out past the the bulkheads.  You can see the gap formed between the upper planking and the outside of the bulkheads where the plankshear should be covering the bulkheads, especially amidship.

 

Did I make a fatal mistake and should I start over?  That is, should I tear out the planking, the stanchions, the main rail, and the plankshear, and do it over?  Or if I fill the gap and place an artificial plankshear on the hull using a 1/16 square strip, could I "hide" the gap, or will I run into too many problems as the build progresses?

 

Thanks,

 

Jon

 

[dogface]

to explain a little further, I already filled the gaps with filler and so you can't see the actual bulkheads; however, you can see the gap that was left.

 

Jon

[Bill Hill]

When I built the Morgan I was unhappy with the look of plank shear, looked uneven at spots.  So I sanded it down and added strip of wood.  This has been an approach I saw in a build log.  You may want to consider adding a strip of wood to make the same effect.

[dogface]

thanks Bill, that's what I'm thinking too.

 

Jon

[Cathead]

I haven't built this so can't offer good advice on this question, but am looking forward to seeing how you solve it.

[dogface]

I'll post pictures when I get it figured out.  I think I will end up having a wider plank shear amidship than is proper, and then taper it down to 1/16" square toward both the bow and the stern as the plans indicate.  Hopefully, I'll be able to hide the mistake among all the other items placed on the outer hull, chainplates, rigging etc.

 

[dogface]

I decided to fill the plankshear gap by placing a wider strip along the side, and the shape it:

 

the plankshear is still wider than it should be but I'll have to live with it.  Looking at the profile view, (pic 3), it's about the best i can do.  I don't have power tools to cut wood, so it's just me, an exacto blade, and sandpaper.

 

[dogface]

also, I started the planking.  I'm moving slowly, looking t other build logs and trying to follow Chuck Passaro's planking videos re: edge bending.  I'm having a hard time at the stern because the planks not only bend but they twist to meet the counter.  not sure what I'm doing wrong?  comments welcome as always.

[Cathead]

I can't quite tell from that photo but you almost certainly need to shape the planks for them to fit the required geometry. If you're just trying to bend consistent-width planks into place it'll be especially hard. Right at the stern, where they start to splay out again, you may want to consider a couple "stealers", which are shorter planks that take up that extra space. Review some planking tutorials to see what I mean. But I can't be sure from the single photo.

 

Also, and again I may be being misled by the perspective of the photo, but I wonder if that last bulkhead needs to be faired down more? It kind of looks like your planks, when they sit flat against your faired surface, are being directed away from the counter at an angle, producing an extra-hard last-minute bend that would give anyone trouble. That bulkhead should gently guide the planks into place, rather than being a barrier over which they need to be forced. 

[dogface]

good catch--it does look like the bulkhead needs fairing.  because you are exactly right that the last bend was extra-hard.  I'll look at palnking stealers tutorials too,  thanks!

Jon

[dogface]

I decided to basically start the build over.  The planking was not going well and instead of trying to fix everything, I ordered new bulkheads, keel and some new wood strips from Model Shipways (they have been great with free replacement parts).  Since I'm not that far into the build I would rather start over than fix all the mistakes I've already made.

 

Jon

[JJUSNRET]

I had the same issue on the stern - had to make a smoother transition - planks just could not make the complex curve even after soaking and steaming- also had to use some stealers to fill in.  Great start,  stay the course.  Recommend looking at some of the build logs and follow some of what each stage will look like.  Folks in this forum and local model guild have made a tremendous difference.  John at Model Expo is also a great resource and can recommend help.  Also, look at the real ship and see what the finished product looks like.  Sometimes best strategy is to push away for a day or two, the get back in.  Bob Hunt and Don Passaro have some super how to pdfs on this platform.  Keep going mate!!!  JJ

 

[CiscoH]

as a very new modeler i am struggling with the same bending planks around the sharp curve of the transom below the counter on my Armed Virginia Sloop.  So far i have found Chuck Passaro’s videos the most helpful for sideways bending.  But to form the sharp bend inwards below the counter i have found soaking the end of the wood overnight in water then clamping the plank in place until it dries works best for me.  i use an oversize plank so i can remove a lot of wood to make it fit better.  and i still lose 25-50% of my attempts to breakage.

[dogface]

JJ, thanks for the good advice and encouragement.  I restarted the whole thing over and have been studying planking videos and practicums.

 

Cisco,  I agree that soaking and bending works well, and steam works really well.  I lose a lot of wood too!  Keep working at it; once youy figure out what works, it gets much easier.

 

Jonb

[dogface]

Thought I would post again to let you know I haven't given up on this build.  I may be in over my head with the CW Morgan, but I've wanted to build her for a long time.  Regarding the issues with the planksheer in my earlier posts, I basically started over and have posted photos.  Don't judge me too harshly, I know there are some incredibly skilled modelers on this forum, and their build logs have been very helpful for me!  BTW, the parts people at Model Shipways were very gracious in sending me several replacement parts.  I appreciate their customer service.  Anyway, here's where I'm at now. 

[dogface]

I have completed planking band 'A' on the port side.  Pretty rough I know but it's about the best I can do right now.  I'll add some filler and make it look as best I can.  I'll add a 1/16 strip where the planksheer juts out from the hull.  My wale line is not great but like I said, it's the best I can do.  There is almost no tolerance for error on this build, and like I said, it's somewhat beyond my skill level.  I only use hand tools.

 

I'm actually pleased at how I was able to get the planks to bend into the transom area at the stern.  Studied several videos regarding how to bend wood; Chuck Passaro's work is especially helpful.

 

Anyway, comments and advice always welcome.  Thanks!

 

Jon

[Cathead]

Like you said, this is a tough build to learn on but you're spot on by sticking with it and doing your best. My bet is you'll be surprised by how well it comes together. Not only are we often our own worst critics, but a completed model has a way of hiding faults that seem apparent during the build process. And most people who see the completed model are more likely to say "wow, you actually built that?" rather than "hey, your planking's suboptimal".

[dogface]

thanks Eric!

[dogface]

thought I'd post an update on how the planking is going.  Still learning how best to trim and bend planks as I go.  These pics are all pre-sanding.  Comments, tips & hints welcome, thanks!

 

[Cathead]

A  hint for future builds, you can see some places in the planking where there are pretty clear knuckles, which tells you that the underlying frame could have used more fairing. All the planking should be perfectly smooth, ideally you shouldn't be able to tell where the frames are. But as said before, some nice filling and sanding will work wonders, as will paint. And you've kept the planking runs straight, avoiding the dreaded upward-sweeping bow curve that happens when people don't pay attention to how hull planking works. I forget, is this a double-planked hull or is that the outer layer?

[dogface]

Hey Cathead,  thanks for the input.  Yes I had to add shims toward the bow, so I need to get better at fairing the bulkheads prior to planking.  The Morgan is single layer planking, so I hope I can sand it smoothly without sanding any plank completely through. Thanks for your encouragement.

Jon

[Cathead]

It's amazing how well a rough hull transforms into something lovely with sanding. 

[dogface]

closed up the hull sanded and filled.  I used regular wood filler and it's pretty grainy.  if I seal the lower part of the hull, with lacquer or poly, will the copper plates stick to it?  Thanks.

 

 

[Cathead]

Sorry, can't answer your question, have never used lacquer or poly on hulls nor have ever done copper plating.

[dogface]

Just an update on where I'm at on my CWM build.  As noted by other CWM builders, this model is quite difficult and can be overwhelming at times.  here are some pics of the deck furniture I got done.  I may re-do some pieces.  Also, I tried the skylight 3 times without success.  will probably try it again though.

[dogface]

Nothing is glued yet, I want to make sure I glue things in at the right time.  I still have to make the windlass, anchor deck, catheads and about a hundred other things.  Thanks for looking in.

[dogface]

a couple of pictures to show where I'm at in the struggle.  Nothing is glued to the deck yet.  The coppering went on, but the white trim pieces to represent the outboard edge of

[dogface]

The white trim pieces were a bit difficult for me because of pst mistakes on the plank sheer but it will have to do.  I'm planning to spray the copper with a patina product to give it a weathered look.  thanks for looking in, comments welcome.  

 

Jon

[ESF]

Jon, she’s coming along nicely.  Your struggles are paying off.  Hang in there.

Steve

[LoydB]

It looks amazingly better with paint & copper, I love how that works. Nice job!