Seizings - what am I doing wrong?

[David Lester]

The discussion of the best glue for ratlines in another thread has me thinking about my seizings. The consensus seems to be that anything other than CA glue is the way to go, but for some reason I cannot seem to get anything other than CA to actually secure my seizings. I've tried PVA, watered down PVA, podge, shellac and varnish. In every case, the seizing will always fail. After I've let the glue dry, I snip the ends of the seizing line and everything will be fine, but as soon as I snip the ends of the actual line being seized close to the seizing, it will always slip through. This is especially true if, for example, I am seizing a block to an eyebolt or hook. Just a little bit of pressure and the line around the block will slip out of the seizing and release the block. It seems that the glue is holding the seizing, but not the actual line and the seizing itself is not enough to hold the line in place. As a result, I always end up resorting to CA, trying to use as little as possible. It holds well, but goes hard and looks a bit rough. I would love to avoid CA, but I have never had success with other glues.

 

Does anyone have any ideas of what the trick is or what I might be doing wrong?

[Dave_E]

Dave, I'm there with you. All my block work and seizings are done with CA. To fast and don't come undone, regardless of the type rope (natural or synthetic). Right, wrong or indifferent... it works. Now if we get to sloppy with it, yep it shows and is most of the time shiny. This first build of mine has shown me where I prefer to use it and where I don't. I have never heard anyone say no CA on any rigging. I see master builders on YouTube use it for seizings.

[James H]

Use whatever works for you. There are no rules.

 

If you use CA on stuff that has tension etc., just use regular viscosity so it seeps into the joint. Use sparingly so the majority soaks in and doesn't look rough. If you get any residue etc., then use a little black acrylic to touch up and hide.

[Peanut6]

I agree with Dave, every hint/tip/trick/tutorial/video I've come across on seizing uses CA to prevent the exact problem you're having, though they so specify to use is sparingly.  Just reciently I read, but don't recall where, that you should not use PVA an rigging lines.  The justification in the article only stated "for obvious reasons".  Not very obvious for this reader. 

[allanyed]

David,

What material is the rope and the seizing material made of?     How are you wrapping the seizing line to begin with? 

 

This video should be useful in actually making your seizing, just using a needle and your seizing cord in place of the full size rope in the vid.  At our scales it is not so easy, but can be done without any glue, although I would use a dab of the applicable glue anyway.

 

 I hope some other members will post some show and tell methods that they use with success that do not include CA.

 

Allan

 

 

Edited May 22, 2022 by allanyed

[David Lester]

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I don't feel so bad now. I now feel empowered to continue to use CA without beating myself up over it as if its use was some sort of character flaw. I'll strive to apply the glue as carefully and sparingly as I can.

 

James - I've already started to touch up the seizings with flat black, not because of the glue, but because I've started using light coloured thread for the seizings on black line. The contrast makes it easier to get a nice even wrap.

Allan - thank for the video link; that's a great explanation.

Thanks again

David

[dvm27]

I have just started rigging my model and I am certain that seizing is much more difficult on a model than in real life. What is working for me is using a small pinpoint of CA to secure the first seizing wrap (away from the throat). Then the seizing is wetted, wrapped around the rope towards the throat several times under tension, passed through the throat then wrapped twice between the lines. A small blob of white glue is placed around the seizing and allowed to dry. After it dries the edges are trimmed. Still working on splicing served line but at least I have the seizing down. I'll post some photos in a day or so as it is much easier to do than describe.

[allanyed]

Thanks Greg, I am anxious to see the pics!!

Allan

[Mr Pleasant]

Hi All

I have quite good results using Floo Gloo from Veniards, it's used in the tying of flies in the fishing world.  I was struggling on the dead eyes that sit in the channels on the Mary Rose and having tried nail varnish, shellac, watered down PVA etc the Floo Gloo seems to have  solved my problems.

 

Mark