Plywood substitute

[CaptnBirdseye]

One of the current kits I am building is the HMS Victory partwork by De Agostini. In Pack 2, Stages 18 and 19 we are issues with 4 plywood strips: 2 of 4mm x 10mm x 300 mm and 2 of  5mm x 15mm x 330mm.

The istructions say that to allow for the curvature of the deck and placement of the ribs, these beams need to be sanded back and then shallow cut. Unfortuately for me one of these shallow cuts went to far and the plywood became too weak to hold shape. Having contacted Modelspace for a replacement, they have told me that there isn't stock in the country to replace, and replacements would have to come from Italy!

Now i don't know if any of you have had any dealings with DA in Italy, but lets put it like this.... my hopes aren't very high of getting these replacements any time soon 

 

So what i'm thinking is why not try to make my own replacements. My question is: what type of staock would be best to make the replacements?

[Jaager]

Is it possible that sturdy hardwood planks be scabbed on either side of each plywood "beam"?

[CaptnBirdseye]

Hi Jaager,

Unfortunately, not knowing enough about hardwoods and their different properties, i wouldn't know which to use

They would be painted black anyway, but is there a type that is quite pliable (forgive the pun) anyway?

 

[Frank Nichols]

5 hours ago, Jaager said:

Is it possible that sturdy hardwood planks be scabbed on either side of each plywood "beam"?

 

This would be my first thought. I don't know that hardwood would be required either. I don't know how thick the planks were to be, but I expect a 1/16 inch thick plank glued onto the back and then carefully sanded to conform would probably work. The kind of wood is likely not important since what you will see is the original. 

[Roger Pellett]

Since we don’t know where you live, your workshop situation, etc., this assumes that you are a “kitchen table” modeler living in the USA living within a reasonable distance from a shopping center.

 

Go to your nearest craft, hobby, or home Improvement store and buy basswood sheet or wide strip material.  Using whatever glue you have to build the model glue the basswood to the damaged beam.  Roughly cut the repaired beam to shale with a craft knife.   Using a block of wood as a backup sand to finished shape.  

 

Yellow PVA (Elmer’s, Titebond, etc) is preferred for gluing wood.

 

Roger

[Jaager]

3 hours ago, RockinBudgie said:

but is there a type that is quite pliable

A picture of what part has been damaged would allow for more creative suggestions.

There is nothing magic about any wood.  We all have our favorite species, but most of us who do are scratch builders or kit builders who are painting with wood.

I was imagining the pseudo deck beam portion of a typical mold as being the part.  The hull shape being acceptable and the beam being abraded too much.  In that case, it would be covered by the deck, so how it looks would be irrelevant.

 

Even clear Pine would work.

For a one off plywood replacement, you could use what is about the best quality plywood available = aircraft plywood from a hobby store.  In bulk, it is expensive.  For spot work, the expense is not significant.   With a variety of thicknesses, a sum of what is available can get you where you want to be.

 

An advantage of wooden ship models is that all of the parts are easily replaced by other wood.  Unlike synthetic plastics,  it grows in trees.  The kit mfg is just supplying an easy path.  With a bit more work, any of it can be placed by material that is right at hand.  A beginner just lacks the tools and experience to do this.  Unless you reside on an asteroid, there is probably someone nearby who does have the tools and experience to help you with general woodworking.

Edited August 2, 2022 by Jaager

[barkeater]

I don't know if this would help since I'm not fully clear on what you need to do and what tools you have but thin plywood sheets are readable available in different thicknesses. I've bought them on Amazon. I believe they were birch and have used them for bulkheads as well as an undercoat for deck planking.

Richard

[CaptnBirdseye]

Thanks for the replies, guys. Photos of what I’m talking about below. I didn’t know if a hardwood would work better with having to cut it at the rear to make it bend? Having snapped the ply was hoping for something more robust. Tool-wise, i do have a mini table saw and disc sander.

Edited August 3, 2022 by RockinBudgie

[Charter33]

Just a thought - how about using layers of micro ply? Available in thicknesses from less than 1 mm, up to a couple of mm, strips could be cut, glued to achieve the required final thickness and clamped to the bulkheads to form a laminated curve, and no need to make those shallow cuts... 

[barkeater]

If I'm understanding this correctly, you need to put a curve in a 2x4 mm piece of plywood. You could just cut a piece of wood and steam bend in this case. Since it is originally plywood, I assume the finished piece will be hidden or painted. In that case you could use whatever wood you want. You may be able to find a 2x4mm and a 2x5mm piece in the lengths you need already cut from walnut or bass in one of the many online stores. The thicker the wood, the harder to steam bend but 2 mm is readily doable.  I'm assuming you have an electric steam bender. If not and you don't want to get one you could soak and make a jig to let it dry in the proper curve, but a steam bender is a cheap and worthwhile tool to have and pretty much a necessity for ship building.

Richard

[mtaylor]

Solid wood would be my first choice for something that needs bending.  Plywood just won't work too well.   Lots of ways to bend wood and for thick woods, the best way is steam... or just water and heat.   Chuck has method that he's shown often that works well.... soak for about 20 minutes or so, bend to shape on a board and clamp into the position (curve) needed.  Applly heat using a hairdryer or heatgun.  Once cool, it stays bent with minimal kick back.  

[CaptnBirdseye]

Thank you everyone for your replies and advice. I have been able to get hold of an old Issue 18 (the ones that originally came with a magazine) and the beams in there are wood, not plywood!

This looks to be the way to go, as mentioned above by Mark. 

[Robere210]

I've successfully used veneer to "make" my own small pieces of plywood.  Oak works well, and is readily available.