18th Century Merchantman Half Hull Planking Kit by flutlo6180 - NRG - 1:48

[flutlo6180]

While I wait on some replacement items to finish my San Juan Felucca build, I decided to crack open the half-hull planking kit and get started with this build log.

 

A piece of quarter inch foam board from my wife's craft room and some spray adhesive and the build board was ready after setting overnight. The spine pieces took some care to get released from the sheet as the cut did not go completely through the wood.

 

I tried both scrapping and sanding to remove the laser char from the surfaces to be glued. I found that using an old blade to scrape the chare worked best on the curves and kept the edges straighter than sanding, but sanding worked well on the flat edges. 

 

[flutlo6180]

Today is day 3 of my build and I finished fitting and shaping the spine pieces, and laying out the rabbit line on the keelson, keel, stemson and stem pieces.

 

 

I intend to wait to begin cutting the rabbit until tomorrow, but wanted to practice first to refine a technique. For the  keelson and keel, I used a 3/4" thick wooden block cut to a 45 degree angle as a guide. My practice piece was an edge from the boxwood sheet, and the guide worked out quite nicely. By placing the edge of the guide block on the cut line and holding the chisel blade flat against the block, I achieved a nice, clean and consistent cut at an even 45 degrees. The approach also worked well and an inside and outside curve but I will use a thinner block when I cut the stemson and stem rabbit.

 

[Cathead]

Nice start!

[flutlo6180]

On 8/2/2022 at 6:50 PM, Cathead said:

Nice start!

Thanks Cathead.

 

I finished cutting the rabbit on the keel, keelson, stem and stemson pieces. The guide block worked well and changing the rabbit angle on the stem and stemson wasn't that difficult. A little clean-up needed on couple of areas on the stem and stemson pieces before gluing to the build boar pied, but overall I'm pleased.

 

 

While the glue dries, I'll start prepping the frame pieces and then deepening the slots for the frames.

 

 

 

 

[flutlo6180]

Today I cleaned up the stem rabbit, glued the spine to the build board, and extended the keelson frame slots to just above the rabbit.  The lazar cut was 1/32" wider than the actual frame so I adjusted the slots to 7/32" when I cut the extensions. The first picture shows the difference more clearly. I'm aligning the slots to the right hand red framing lines for consistency and to ensure the spacers will fit correctly. 

 

 

[flutlo6180]

Today, I started installing the frames with the first 3 glued in place. Getting this done took much longer than I expected - not to get them set and glued but to get them released from the sheet. One of the 2 sheets with the frames didn't get cut through by the lazar and in many places I couldn't see the cut line on the bottom even with shining a bright light from the top. As a result, I had to tracing a template of each frame using the cut line on the top and then tracing the template on the bottom. Fortunately, there was enough of a cut line visible so I could align the template and get the right outline. I discovered that even with the outline traced, that it took a great deal of care to get the frame cut from the sheet. You can see where I broke off a small piece of the back of the center frame in 3rd photo.  

 

The 1st photo shows my approach to getting the frame square to the keelson using a couple Lego blocks. Using these blocks to keep the frame square vertically, and the machinists square firmly holding the frame perpendicular to the spine on the alignment line resulted in a nice and true installation. 

 

The 2nd photo shows the difference in width of the pre-cut slot and the actual width of the frame (forgive the weird angle of the shot). This extra width would have been a problem if I hadn't cut the slot narrow when expanding it to the rabbit line. I did needed to shave just a bit more to get a nice tight fit but I happy with the results thus far.

 

[flutlo6180]

Another good build day and its starting to look like a hull. My efforts yesterday to trace the frame outlines for cut lines on the back of the frame sheet paid dividends. Frames E through 4 and spacers installed, bearding line drawn, and the shallow slope sanded into the deadwood.

 

 

[flutlo6180]

Framing is complete. I opted to wait to install the transom and counter until after several courses of planking are finished as suggested in the instructions to avoid breaking. 

 

Getting the bow filler cut to follow the rabbit line wasn't as challenging as I feared and I like the end result.

 

There is and issue with frame E as shown below which is a bit over 2mm lower than the line between frames D and F.  I have a piece of limewood planking from my felucca build that is the right width and 2mm thick should work as a shim to build up this frame. My plan is to soak the piece, shape it to the frame and then glue it in place once dried. That extra piece should be sufficient for me to fair the frames in this area.

 

 

 

 

 

[flutlo6180]

The shim installed on Frame E raised it the the right height and I was able to get the section faired.

 

As I started fairing the midship frames I found that Frame 1 was also low and was successfully shimmed.

 

I decided to wait to layout the top rail line until after shaping the shimmed frames and laid out the line after some fairing of the hull.  Aft top rail came out well as shown below.

 

Laying out the top rail for the forward section revealed an issue with frame 5a and the filler piece at the stem.  Looks like I inserted the frame to far towards the keel and it is about 1/8" below the top rail line.

 

I considered trying to build up this area to fill the gap and then recalled the issues I had with my felucca build by trying to press forward, and decided to tear down this section and rebuild using replacement pieces. I've stacked 3 layers of scrap basswood cut to shape of Frame 5a which should work. I used the basswood because it's easier to cut it to proper shape then the plywood.

 

My plan is to rebuild this area tomorrow (I need to buy some alcohol tomorrow to release the pva) and then finish the top rail line, trim the frames, and then layout the main wale line.

Edited August 14, 2022 by flutlo6180
typo

[flutlo6180]

I'm just about ready to start planking!!!

 

Today, I rebuilt and faired frame 5a using the scrap basswood, cut the frame tops back to match the topline, and laid out the wale as planned.

 

 

 

I proceeded further and also laid out the line for the garboard strake.  Discovered that the 10mm Tamiya tape on hand isn't quite wide enough to properly layout the garboard plank for transfer to the basswood.  Another unfortunate materials delay, but I'm pretty excited about where I am with this build.

 

I received the HMS Alert kit from Vanguard over the weekend and will take this forced break to crack open the box and start reading through the instructions.

[flutlo6180]

I achieved another build milestone today with shaping and gluing down the aft garboard plank. The initial dry fit was pretty good overall but I wasn't completely happy with how it fit into the rabbit. Cutting a slight bevel into that edge improved the fit. I've laid out the garboard plank forward and will fine tune the shape during dry fitting after the glue completely cures on the aft section.

The layout

Dry Fit

Glued and clamped.

[CiscoH]

Looking good to me!  keep the posts coming flutlo6180

[flutlo6180]

Thanks Cisco.

 

Completed the garboard and broad strake installation. 

 

 

Fiddled around with the trying to get a good fit in the stem rabbit and ended up remaking the forward broad strake section twice before I figured out what I was doing but overall I'm happy with the fit. I ordered some additional 1/32" basswood to ensure I have enough on hand if I need to remake many more sections.

 

 

The first band line layout is shown with the purple lines on the frames.  The marker for the second band is only on the dead flat for now until I finish installing the counter. Using the spiling technique to shape the first plank section wasn't as challenging as I anticipated and the dry fit for the middle plank in the first row of band one is reasonably good after some fine tuning. 

 

 

I recognize that this is only 1 section of one row in the dead flat area so I am checking my confidence with spiling, but at the least I now understand the process.

 

[flutlo6180]

Today I finished with the first band of planking, installed the counter, and drew the layout the half stealer.

 

 

 

A few issues came to light as I completed this phase of the build. First, I needed to fair frames 3 and 4 a bit more as there is a dip on frames 4a and 5. The directions for installing the counter aren't very clear. At first, I thought the writing would face inward and realized my error after gluing which presented another opportunity to release the PVA and start over.  I'm am also concerned that I will need to build up frame H when I get to installing the wale as it doesn't appear that the junction will look right. Finally, I'm not really pleased with the layout for the half stealer and will likely redo that when I start on the next planking band.

 

Next step will be laying out the separation line for bands 2 an 3.

 

 

 

[Cathead]

I had a lot of problems with the provided frames not being right and needing to be reduced or built up. That in itself is a useful learning process, though, as it'll happen in almost any kit! There's definitely an awkward knuckle in those lower planking runs. I also recall the intended counter method being very difficult to understand.

[flutlo6180]

20 hours ago, Cathead said:

That in itself is a useful learning process

 

Thanks Cathead. Your reply reminded me that the whole purpose of this half hull kit is learning to plank properly. After thinking about your comment I decided to remove the planking from the first bow section band to build up frames 4a and 5 and re-fair that section of the hull to try and remove that awkward knuckle (I like the way you put that observation). The garboard and broad strakes don't exhibit that dip so I am leaving them in place.

 

 

While I'm in the process of reworking this section I am also going to address the counter as it is likely easier to do that now than after laying the second planking band.

 

I am curious as to how you addressed the counter with respect to the way the wale transitions into the counter and transom.

[flutlo6180]

I built up frames 4a and 5 and re-faired that section of the hull. The dip / knuckle is gone and I'm glad I decided to rework and correct the defect.

[Cathead]

That run of planking looks so much better! Well done.

 

On 8/23/2022 at 9:43 AM, flutlo6180 said:

I am curious as to how you addressed the counter with respect to the way the wale transitions into the counter and transom.

 

Here's how it looked on mine prior to planking:

 

 

During planking:

 

 

And after:

 

 

Hope that's helpful in visualizing one way (not necessarily the only/right way) to do it.

[flutlo6180]

Thanks for the photos Eric, and your comment! The pictures are very helpful in getting me to visualize how that junction could look.  It does appear that you filed back the last 4 frames quite a bit with the last 2 running much more vertical up to the wale in the third planking band.  Am I interpreting the photos correctly or is it just the camera angle?

Edited August 25, 2022 by flutlo6180
spelling

[Cathead]

So here's what my framing looked like pre- and post-fairing (you can also see how uneven the original frames were in my kit). I basically just kept removing material, checking with thin battens, until I got a run that was smooth. I didn't write anything about this part of the stern in my log, unfortunately, and my memory isn't clear. I rechecked @tlevine's instructions, and it seems like my fairing was pretty similar (see, for example, her photo 97 and mine here) but it's so hard to interpret this stuff from flat photos.

 

 

In my opinion, more important than trying to emulate any exact shape is to make sure the shape you end up with has a smooth run with no knuckles or awkward angles. Use thin battens obsessively until you're sure every plank will flow across that space and end where you want it, including the butt ends. It can even help to use several side-by-side to help see places where sudden changes occur along a frame (one can lay flat and the next start to knuckle). 

[carlo_l]

Hi @flutlo6180, very nice model. I'm following you with great interest 😃

Keep it up
carlo

[tlevine]

Ken, compare your aft bulkheads with cathead's.  You still need to refine them.  Draw a line from the fore tip of bulkhead G up to where the counter and sternpost intersect.  Everything aft of that needs to be sanded off.  Also Ga and Gb need to be sanded down more aft to give a smooth run of planking at the stem rabbet.  Finally, the first broad strake looks too wide.  This will result in the rest of the planks being too narrow.  

 

As cathead says, battens are your friend.  Love those clamps.

[flutlo6180]

10 hours ago, Cathead said:

Use thin battens obsessively until you're sure every plank will flow across that space and end where you want it, including the butt ends

Thanks Eric. It seems obvious to me now that I have not been checking the flow of planking the correct way, and perhaps more importantly not often enough.

 

3 hours ago, tlevine said:

Draw a line from the fore tip of bulkhead G up to where the counter and sternpost intersect.  Everything aft of that needs to be sanded off.

Hi Toni. Thanks so much for dropping into my log and providing me advice.  I'll check the broad strake width and If it is too wide then I plan to de-plank and start afresh - fortunately I am only at the first band and already purchased additional basswood sheets.  At a minimum, I will address the aft frames per your guidance and fix any additional areas needing more fairing. Doing so may also lead me to the conclusion that I need to strip back the planks and completely re-fair the whole framework. On the plus side, I am getting even more practice with spiling. 🙂

 

Hi Carlo.  Thanks for your encouragement.

[Cathead]

Don't feel bad, you're doing fine and as you noted, the whole purpose here is to learn and practice. Mine had all sorts of issues that I would (hopefully) do better next time!

[tlevine]

Cathead is right, the purpose is to learn on something inexpensive so that you can improve your skills for the next "real" project.  I have done four of these, and each one is just a little different and (hopefully) a little better.

[flutlo6180]

Thanks Eric and Toni.  I appreciate your words of encouragement.  After carefully considering how I wanted to proceed, It was clear that I couldn't adequately address the aft frames and counter area without damaging some of the lower planks. I've removed all of the planks to address the problems and focus on my fairing technique.

 

I did put the HM Alert - 1777 kit in the closet so it's not such a distraction.

[Cathead]

That's got to hurt, I'm sorry! I've been there. But since your goal is to learn, I think you'll be happy in the long run. But I do feel a little bad! Keep going, you'll be thrilled when it comes together.

[flutlo6180]

Hi Eric. Thanks for commiserating. I have worked the counter area and found several sections of the hull that required additional fairing and am back to adding the first band of planking. The extra practice with spiling is already showing benefits with tighter joints and better overall appearance. I'll post some photos with my next entry.

[flutlo6180]

Finally back to where I started with planking on the first band complete, but further ahead as the aft frames and counter area are rebuilt.

 

On 8/25/2022 at 3:43 PM, tlevine said:

Finally, the first broad strake looks too wide.

Toni, I am impressed that you could spot the broad strake error from my photo.  It wasn't so much as too wide, but too narrow in the forward section. The changes in width did effect the planking width and I am much happier with how much more consistent the planking width is on this second attempt.

 

 

The bigger issue was fixing the counter.  From this first photo, you can see that because I waited to install the transom and counter until later in the build I wound up filing off way too much. This error was in part the reason I couldn't envision how the counter, transom and framing should come together.

 

 

I ended up significantly building frames G through H back up to restore them to an approximation of their correct shape and it was easier to use some wood putty to fill in the irregular gaps from the shimming and to achieve a smooth surface and flow into the counter.

 

 

I also cut back the aft frames further back into the deadwood which also created a better flow for the planking into the stern post for the first and second bands, and also created a better surface area for gluing.

 

 

Overall, the result thus far is a significant improvement (IMHO) from previously, and I am very glad that I decided to strip back all the planking - including the garboard and broad strakes - to better address the issues. 

[Cathead]

Cool! Can't wait to see how the new planking flows back there. The bow looks so much better with a nice smooth run. Well done.