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Help with configuring a Foredom pendant drill setup.


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I am planning to upgrade my work bench in the next few months  and need advice on which Foredom to buy and what accessories i should purchase. I am sure some of you have experience with these wonderful hanging pendant drills.

The first challenge  is which model to buy

- SR, TX and LX. SR seems to be the most recommended but lacks torque at very low speeds. I do not have a drill that works well at very low speeds. All my drills are high speed. 

- WHICH SPEED CONTROLLER TO BUY, FOOT OR  DESK TOP. I have a foot controller for the Dremel hanging tool  but was considering getting a table top speed controller. No particular reason, just adding options.

-WHICH HAND PIECE TO BUY. From the reading about various post there are quick release hand pieces with a flexible attachment as well as a 3 jaw Jacob chuck no. 30 seems to be the recommended first hand piece.  Then the suggested quick release # 18 seems recommended. Will all my Dremel pieces work? There is also a flexible attachment that is being recommended with most hand pieces. 

- WHICH SHAFT SHOULD I USE. there seem to be two types of shafts, one with a square end the other has a a key at the end. Also owners make reference to the shaft being stiff. My preference would be the key end shaft

- WILL I NEED ANOTHE DESK ATTACHMENT TO HANG THE MOTOR. i have one for the Dremel but suspect that it will not carry the weight of the Foredom.
- ARE THERE ANY ATTACHMENTS THAT ARE A MUST HAVE.  there is a 90 degree angle head for sanding and a small belt sander. Not that i need another drill press but there also seems to be a drill pressas eell.
 

i am in no rush as Susan will be giving me this for Christmas.

Kevin

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Hello Kevin,

I'm glad you asked and will start things off.

I have the Foredom SR with flexishaft and 6mm key-type chuck. It is one of the standard entry-level packages with foot control. I thought I would wait to see which other end-pieces were right for me and so far I don't think I will be ordering any more. The 6mm chuck is good even with .8mm drill bits.

I keep the chuck key in a spring clip beside the work space and (so far) have not suffered for lack of quick-release handpiece. Perhaps if I ever get into some serious detail carving with a need to constantly change burrs that will change but not yet.

One thing I now know for certain is that, at least for me, the foot controller is a must. It gives me an extra hand to wrangle those fiddly little bits.

BTW, the business end of the standard SR handpiece has parallel sides and works well in a clamp. I am not sure this is the case with the QR handpiece. I made a clamp-on worktable from wood scraps in about half an hour that works fine and gives me a small work surface for offering pieces up to the drum/burr/router bit. I had something similar for my Dremel but the foot speed control and high speed of the Foredom makes this the better tool for that job.

EDIT: Forgot to say that one lesson learned was that the tool is not hanging where I originally imagined. It is also hanging quite successfully on an improvised bit of stiff electrical cable that lets me make adjustments when I am leaning over the workbench or the Foredom is clamped in place. Not sure how that will work with one of the purpose made hangers. The limiting factor can be the distance from the tool to the foot controller.

HTH, will be watching for the input from others with their own tweaks.

Bruce

Edited by bruce d

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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Hi Bruce. Thanks for the feedback. I have a foot control for my Dremel pendant motor so was thinking of using that and adding/ purchasing the desk top control unit as an added control unit. 
in terms of hanging the unit, my Dremel pendant motor has 4 positions/holes in the table top,  that i can insert the hanging post into.  I am also considering installing the new hanging post on a separate mobile unit using one of the macpro bases i have. The benefit is that i can weld it where ever i want independent of the work bench. The macpro base also allows me to store all the accessories in one place, so i am never looking for accessories. The side opens up and allows storage space. 
kevin

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12 minutes ago, Kevin Kenny said:

The benefit is that i can weld it where ever i want independent of the work bench. The macpro base also allows me to store all the accessories in one place, so i am never looking for accessories. The side opens up and allows storage space. 

Looks good. 

If I ever have a workshop with a nice smooth floor I may try it.

Sigh ...

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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Hi Kevin

 

I've been using a Foredom tool for quite a while now and its not comparable to any high speed drill.  The torque and slow speeds just give you the accuracy and control that you want.  So what have learn't from my ownership?

 

Firstly I no longer hang my Foredom motor up like jewellers do.  It's far too restricting and I've swapped to a desk mounted base as I can literally put this anywhere that I want.  I have found this to be a much better solution and I would recommend the SR motor with a foot pedal control with a key drive shaft.

 

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Next the main hand piece is a H30 which takes drills up to 4.0mm and will just about do 95% of all of your tasks.

 

IMG_4897.thumb.jpeg.bc065b10cd93dc6422f8330604dc54dd.jpeg

Foredom also make a beautiful drill press that the H30 slides straight into and does a fantastic job.

 

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I also have another hand piece which is the H28.  Its about half of the diameter of the H30 and its much smaller to hold in your hand.  Foredom make some really nice micro chucks that fit nicely into the supplied collet with this hand piece.

 

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I hope this has been some help - Oh also buy from a registered Foredom dealer as there are so many rip offs out there that are not as good as the real thing

 

Cheers Mark

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On 9/16/2022 at 8:51 PM, Kevin Kenny said:

The first challenge  is which model to buy

The TX is 1/3HP,  has a speed range of 500-15,000

This offers more power and control in the low range.  I do not think that 30,000 RPM is a wood thing.

 

On 9/16/2022 at 8:51 PM, Kevin Kenny said:

WHICH SPEED CONTROLLER TO BUY, FOOT OR  DESK TOP.

I have desk top because I want to have the cutter moving as it comes at the wood.

I use a momentary foot switch with my drill press, because I want the drill bit to be on the drill site- (awl made starter hole) before I start the spin.   There are two stage speed controllers - so that once you have a favorite speed - it is not lost when turning the motor off.

 

On 9/16/2022 at 8:51 PM, Kevin Kenny said:

WHICH HAND PIECE TO BUY.

Both of the main ones?   

StewMac has accessories  that require a hand piece that they supply -  course threads at the tip.

Two style router tables -   The high end one I mounted as a table to cut a rabbet.

There is also a block with 90 degree and 45 degree hand piece holders -  to vise mount the tool.

I think it is the thinner hand piece, so that if you do not mind the threads for hand held work, the Foredom sold one is not needed.

 

On 9/16/2022 at 8:51 PM, Kevin Kenny said:

WHICH SHAFT SHOULD I USE.

which ever one the hand pieces you buy require?

 

On 9/16/2022 at 8:51 PM, Kevin Kenny said:

WILL I NEED ANOTHE DESK ATTACHMENT TO HANG THE MOTOR.

get the bench mount-   The bale does not cost much, so you can buy that just in case.

I bought a fold down shelf bracket  to hold the bale.   If there is a wall close behind your bench, this works.  There are hold along the support so there is adjustment.   The brackets come in pairs, so if both are mounted, you will have L/R options.

 

On 9/16/2022 at 8:51 PM, Kevin Kenny said:

 there is a 90 degree angle head for sanding and a small belt sander.

My problem with the 90 degree adapter is the it extends out too far.   The main job that I was after is fairing the frames inside the hull.   What I really want is a 45 degree tool mount and that seems to be a unicorn.

 

I think that I will find a belt sander to be a "it seemed like a good idea at the time" tool that may not be engineered for our sort of loads.

 

The drill press is surprisingly robust.  I had the money to burn, but as long as my DRL 3000 holds on, it will be a backup.  The hand pieces are designed for side loads, so the drill press could be a safe mill for the sort of wood milling that we do.  But then, there would have to be an XY table and a vise and the back clearance is tight.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Great advice there from Jaager but I'll add a little if I may.  The TX which is a fantastic motor is only available in 115V so it cannot be used in the UK without a transformer.

 

The SR may seem the cheaper option but for ship building I have never been able to stall the motor on mine as the torque is over and above what I need.  I have also found that I do not need to awl to make starter holes.  The reason being is because I can put the drill bit where it needs to be and start the drill at such low RPM using the foot pedal that the bit just does not drift.  This is the best thing about the foot pedal - the starting RPM is governed by the user and not the tool.

 

As for the router made by Stewmac - goodness me how nice does that tool look!!!  I've had this on my radar for quite some time but it will have to wait.

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3 hours ago, Jaager said:

What I really want is a 45 degree tool mount and that seems to be a unicorn.

I've heard rumors of a Foredom 45 degree adapter for their standard handpieces, but I've never seen one. That said, the belt-driven dental engine handpiece selection is unlimited and angled dental engine handpieces come in a myriad of shapes and sizes. Particularly for working inside a hull, the dental handpieces, which are designed to do fine drilling and grinding in the confines of the human mouth, are the right tool for the job. That would require acquiring a dental engine which is an expensive proposition at around $1,000 for an engine and $200 and up per handpiece, but belt-driven, foot controlled bench model dental engines, while still made, are very common on the used market because many dental labs are now going over to micromotor technology. I was recently able to come across an unused Buffalo Dental Co. bench dental engine and handpiece on eBay for seventy-five bucks. It was listed as a "inoperable steam punk" decorator piece. Upon examining the photos closely, It looked brand new, but was missing a belt and a couple of the belt wheels. The manufacturer told me they had parts available, so I decided to take a chance. It turned out to be missing the belt, wheels, and motor brushes, which cost me another fifty bucks or so from the manufacturer. I suspect it was stock on hand somewhere that had been cannibalized for the missing parts as a matter of convenience and the parts never replaced. Working dental engines and handpieces can be found on eBay for five hundred dollars or less these days. Having a Foredom, I found the dental engine a much better option for very fine work.

 

While I have an older Foredom flex-shaft tool and the two most common handpieces, the collet head and the Phillips chuck, I prefer hanging mine from the Foredom hanger that clamps to the lip of a bench. This allows me the option of putting it wherever I desire on whichever bench I am using. While other's like the benchtop base, before I had the hanging post, I found that with the bench top mount the flex-shaft was always getting in the way of things on the benchtop and, when I was focusing on the handpiece, it was all too easy to pull the shaft across the top of the bench and foul something on the bench with potentially disastrous consequences. The choice of mount is obviously a matter of the operator's preference and I'd say that, considering the relatively small cost involved, getting the hanging yoke and hanging post in addition to the bench base is probably a smart move because you'll have twice the flexibility is setting up for any particular job (e.g. sanding frames inside a hull.) 

 

As for Foredom handpieces, you will want both the chuck and the collet basic handpieces. You will also want to purchase a collet set for the collet handpiece. The collet makes swapping 1/8" Dremel bits more convenient than the chuck and if you have a 3/32" collet, you can do the same for standard dental burrs which are available online and of much higher quality and variety than the `1/8" shaft bits offered by Dremel. (You may even get your dentist to save you his old dull dental burrs, which remain just fine for woodworking.) You will also need a "reduction chuck," which permits the use of very small drill bits. This is essentially a small pin vise with a 1/8" shaft. (There's one demonstrated in the video below.)

 

3 hours ago, Jaager said:

The drill press is surprisingly robust.  I had the money to burn, but as long as my DRL 3000 holds on, it will be a backup.  The hand pieces are designed for side loads, so the drill press could be a safe mill for the sort of wood milling that we do.  But then, there would have to be an XY table and a vise and the back clearance is tight.

Before you take a look at the Foredom drill press, I would strongly suggest you consider the Vanda-Lay drill press, or, better yet, the Vanda-Lay "mill/drill" with an X-Y table and an optional Z axis as well, The Vanda-Lay system is a reasonably affordable alternative to a much more expensive dedicated heavy-duty micro-mill. The Vanda-Lay drill press is similar to, but probably at a lower price point than the Foredom drill press, and nearly all the reasons a modeler would want a small drill press are reasons why they'd find they needed an X-Y table on it as well. The last time I spoke with Vanda-Lay (a family owned business,) they assured me that they could provide a holder for the 1" Foredom handpieces instead of the Dremel Moto-tool on special order. (Milling one yourself would be an easy task if you had access to a larger mill.)  See: https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/

 

If you haven't seen this video yet, it's worth a watch. The guy is a dentist and master modeler and gives a great overview of rotary tool options.

 

 

Edited by Bob Cleek
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Thanks for the advice. I actually have. cameron drill press with xy table i got from the late Charley Files so i am not too interested in the drill press attachment. I also have a desk top holder for the Dremel pendant motor but never use it for the same reason you stated, it gets in the way of everything on the work bench. 
i have seen the video above. It is excellent. 

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It is possible to buy 90 degree hand pieces that fit straight onto a Foredom motor..............I'll let you see the price!!  I wouldn't pay this and I don't mind paying for top tools but this is well over the top in my opinion.

 

https://moleroda.com/product/foredom-handpieces/?attribute_handpiece-type=35RAA+Right+Angle+Handpiece+3mm+Collet&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwaHHrYSh-gIVZoBQBh2jeQ2fEAQYASABEgLJPfD_BwE

 

However Foredom do make an attachment that fits onto the H30 hand piece but its quite bulky 

 

https://www.foredom.net/product/a-69224-right-angle-attachment/

 

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Hi No Idea. Just so the good folks don't run out and buy what you shown in https://www.foredom.net/product/a-69224-right-angle-attachment/    you also have to get the head piece which hold what you have shown in  in the angle attachment. Those are just the collect's for holding the bits. Both items together will run you around $200 .https://www.foredom.net/product/2-angle-grinder-attachment/?attribute_pa_sku-handpiece=ak69110-no-handpiece Gary

Edited by garyshipwright
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I have two micro lux 90 degree sanders that i have used for years. When these stop working ill buy the Fordom equivalent  and see how it works. I use this grinder very often, the only problem  is that there is a cog that wears out often and needs to be replaced.

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37 minutes ago, Kevin Kenny said:

have two micro lux 90 degree sanders

I also have one and it is the tool that best does the job of fairing the frames in the hold of the several tools that seem like they could. 

Would a lighter touch produce less wear on the gear?  The tool will produce impressive volumes of dust and the job being done is a finesse sort that I prefer to do inside on a comfortable chair.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I made an error and had to redo the order. I ordered two #30 hand pieces in error  and decided to add some additional hanging pieces for the work bench. I am also making an addition to my work bench with all the hanging tools and all my soldering equipment. Ill post when every thing arrives and the new rolling addition tomthw bench is complete.

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Building the work station for the Foredom. On one side with be the foredom accessories and the other side will be my soldering equipment and accessories. Of course all will be on wheels and at the same height as the work bench. I will also have. Full set of small draws under the work top. 

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  • 1 month later...

Very nice Kevin! Looks like a bit of a dental office arising in your workshop. When will you be seeing your first patient?

Jim 

Current Build: HMS Winchelsea, Model Shipways Mayflower 

Completed Builds: NRG Half Hull Project  

                                   Model Shipways 18th Century Armed Longboat

                                   Dumas 1954 Chris Craft 36' Commander

                                   Dumas 1940 Chris Craft 19' Barrel Back

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Just the Jim Byrnes thickness sander to add  and we are basically up to  date with my power tools wish list. In planning my retirement i had  been trying to get my  shop to the point where i dreamt of adding no new toys.  Its taken me 12 years to get the shop complete. Of course there will always be some temptation.

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Hi Kevin. Getting your shop complete does take awhile, believe mine took me a few years longer but I seam to have every thing I need, for my ship yard. Your set up of the foredom look's good and was wondering if you were going to add a small vise  on the top of the table. You have one heck of a work shop so can you give us a 360 degree view of you shop? Am always interested in other's work shop's and give me ideal's to add to my own shop. Are you planning adding the drill table. Just wondering and have enjoy your video's very much. Gary

Edited by garyshipwright
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I have 4 drill presses in the inside shop and the same number of vices. I have two vices that can clamp onto the table top of the pendant table making sure that the table top is clear of perminant clutter. My rolling tables have allowed me the luxury of keeping all the parts and accessories with the main power tool.  In the past i could never find them when i needed them. My main work bench draws only keep the tool needed for the project  o am working on.  Its a constant fight and i am always looking for ways to make the shop more efficient. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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