1956 Chris-Craft 54' Constellation by bcochran

[shipman]

On 5/30/2024 at 2:17 PM, bcochran said:

Hi Shipman. Good to have you here. I did not feel any tremors.  I’ll have to check the news.  How is merry old England?  I have to go to the doctor because I have a low platelet count.  Cancer could be the cause but I don’t think so. I’ll find out tomorrow. 

Hope you got good news results.

[Ian_Grant]

She's a beauty..........

Edited June 4 by Ian_Grant

[bcochran]

In case anyone was interested in the real boats specs.

[bcochran]

14 hours ago, shipman said:

Hope you got good news results.

Thanks Shipman

I don't have cancer.  I have more tests to undergo.

[bcochran]

I added life rings, something all boats like this should have.

[bcochran]

Here is where things stand.  I've worked on the electronics.  Everything is hooked up and nothing works right.

I am going to replace the transmitter and receiver.  They are not too expensive.  If that doesn't fix things I will replace the ESC.  Those are the only possible things that an be fixed. The batteries and the servo are OK.

 

I keep breaking the plastic hand rail stanchions by laying my arm on them while I am working on the electronics.  I have some metal ones coming today.  They are from the old Marx it.  That kit has a lot of metal parts where the Lindberg kit made them in plastic.  If you are looking to build this boat I would suggest getting the Marx kit for the metal parts. There is one on eBay now but they want your first born and your next year's salary for it.   There is a guy on eBay selling the metal parts.  That's were I got mine. I may end up swapping out my plastic rudders for the metal ones I have coming.  The plastic ones seem very precarious hanging down beneath the hull.

 

I have some block and tackle pulleys coming that I will rig the dinghy with.  That dinghy looks fragile hanging out held only by thread,  I also have metal davits I could replace the plastic ones with.  The plastic looks too fragile.

 

So it loos like it will be a week or more before I get it in the water.  There are no hobby shops that sell R/C near me.  The closest one is in LA or San Diego.  I buy most everything on line now.

Edited June 6 by bcochran

[Ian_Grant]

Bob, it would be worth a little debugging before spending money on a new RC set!

 

The two most likely problems that come to my mind are (1) the ESC somehow burned out, and (2) the RC Tx and Rx are no longer binded for some reason. I'd be surprised if anything is wrong with the Tx or Rx.

 

If the ESC is burned out then it will not supply power to the receiver via the 3-pin "throttle" connection and the boat's innards will be inert. I recall you have a voltmeter at least; with the battery connected to the ESC measure the nominal 5V it should be supplying for the Rcvr. Centre pin is +5V, GND is usually a black wire. If no voltage, it's the ESC.

 

If the Tx and Rx are no longer linked, then the Rx will ignore the Tx and again the boat will be inert. You could test this by connecting any 6V battery to the Rx's "BATT" pins (if you have a spare 3-pin connector with the wires, or cut one). Now that the Rx does not depend on the ESC, test for servo operation. If nothing happens try repeating the binding process. If you're sure they are binding according to the instructions in the TX and Rx manuals, then OK maybe one of them is at fault but again I'd be surprised.

 

Wish I could just pop over to help.....

 

Good luck!

Edited June 6 by Ian_Grant

[bcochran]

3 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

Bob, it would be worth a little debugging before spending money on a new RC set!

 

The two most likely problems that come to my mind are (1) the ESC somehow burned out, and (2) the RC Tx and Rx are no longer binded for some reason. I'd be surprised if anything is wrong with the Tx or Rx.

 

If the ESC is burned out then it will not supply power to the receiver via the 3-pin "throttle" connection and the boat's innards will be inert. I recall you have a voltmeter at least; with the battery connected to the ESC measure the nominal 5V it should be supplying for the Rcvr. Centre pin is +5V, GND is usually a black wire. If no voltage, it's the ESC.

 

If the Tx and Rx are no longer linked, then the Rx will ignore the Tx and again the boat will be inert. You could test this by connecting any 6V battery to the Rx's "BATT" pins (if you have a spare 3-pin connector with the wires, or cut one). Now that the Rx does not depend on the ESC, test for servo operation. If nothing happens try repeating the binding process. If you're sure they are binding according to the instructions in the TX and Rx manuals, then OK maybe one of them is at fault but again I'd be surprised.

 

Wish I could just pop over to help.....

 

Good luck!

The Tx and the Rx will not bind anymore. There has been a steady disintegration of the working of everything. 
At first the motors would go on and off, on and off when I pulled the trigger on the Tx. The Rx would flash red on and off with the motors. The servo would turn by itself intermittently.  The servo control would not work. Now nothing works.

Edited June 7 by bcochran

[bcochran]

Ian.

Thanks for your help.

I will use my volt motor to check out what you suggested.

You can come here. This is where I live.

Edited June 7 by bcochran

[bcochran]

I broke off two of the plastic handrail stanchions while working on the electronics. I am a clutz.  That's the reason I haven't finished my Cutty Sark model.  I keep hitting thin plastic parts and braking them off.

I got these metal stanchions on eBay.  They are from an old Marx version of this boat.  It had metal parts but the Lindberg version has them in plastic. 

I sprayed them chrome this time. The davits show what they look like unpainted.

Edited June 7 by bcochran

[bcochran]

Strange happenings. I tried to operate the R/C equipment. The Tx and the Rx were bound. Things worked like before when the motors turned in a stop and go, stop and go manner. 
 

Then everything quit.  My volt meter’s batteries were dead.  I will still check the voltage. 

 

[thibaultron]

disconnect the motor controllers.

[Ian_Grant]

56 minutes ago, bcochran said:

Strange happenings. I tried to operate the R/C equipment. The Tx and the Rx were bound. Things worked like before when the motors turned in a stop and go, stop and go manner. 
 

Then everything quit.  My volt meter’s batteries were dead.  I will still check the voltage. 

 

If the motors are acting like that, it sounds like the ESC turns them on, has an internal protection alarm of some sort (short? overcurrent? temperature? other?), shuts motors off, and waits the "reset period" before trying again. Check the motors are actually 12V not 6V, maybe.

 

Later Edit:  I found a photo on pg1 of your log. The motors are clearly labelled 12V 4.5A; the ESC is quoted as 30A continuous.

 

Are you starting up with throttle at high? Try turning on with throttle at neutral then slowly increase speed and see if motors are ok up to a certain point where problem occurs again. I'm not familiar with those "land" Transmit units with the wheel and trigger which I always associated with cars; I always use aircraft Transmitters.  There must be a separate switch for fwd/reverse then trigger goes from zero to full speed in selected direction?

Edited June 7 by Ian_Grant

[bcochran]

I was playing with the transmitter trim and I think I caused the problem.  I had the decks off and everything was working even the rudder servo.

 

When I put the decks on the trouble started.

 

If I replace the ECS what are the specs I an looking for. I think I have brushless motors and the ESC needs to match.

 

The Transmitters have a receiver included.

[Ian_Grant]

Bob, your model 3150 motors are definitely brushed; if they were brushless they would have three leads.

 

Your post #7 shows your ESC is the "brushed" type, ie for brushed motors.

 

Interesting that everything works with the deck off. All components are therefore good. Sounds like possibly RF interference.

 

I see from your pictures that the leads from ESC to motors are pretty long and loopy. Brushed motors generate a lot of electrical noise as the brushes pass from one coil to another via the commutator; this electrical noise can then be radiated by the long motor leads. I recommend you try soldering small capacitors, say ceramic 0.1uF leaded, right at the motor terminals. This is a classic configuration to reduce noise from brushed motors; one capacitor from each motor power pin to GND (the motor metal case) and a third capacitor between the two motor pins. See this pololu description:

 

https://www.pololu.com/docs/0J15/9

 

As they say, it will also help to twist each pair of motor leads together in a spiral from ESC to motor, so the two wires "cancel" each other's radiated emissions.

 

Finally, and I realize this would affect your trim and ballast, try moving the rear battery up forward beside the other one so its noisy lead isn't near the Receiver and ESC. You could then twist the leads from batteries to ESC for the same reasons.

 

You're very close........eyes on the prize!!   👍

 

 

 

 

[bcochran]

11 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

Bob, your model 3150 motors are definitely brushed; if they were brushless they would have three leads.

 

Your post #7 shows your ESC is the "brushed" type, ie for brushed motors.

 

Interesting that everything works with the deck off. All components are therefore good. Sounds like possibly RF interference.

 

I see from your pictures that the leads from ESC to motors are pretty long and loopy. Brushed motors generate a lot of electrical noise as the brushes pass from one coil to another via the commutator; this electrical noise can then be radiated by the long motor leads. I recommend you try soldering small capacitors, say ceramic 0.1uF leaded, right at the motor terminals. This is a classic configuration to reduce noise from brushed motors; one capacitor from each motor power pin to GND (the motor metal case) and a third capacitor between the two motor pins. See this pololu description:

 

https://www.pololu.com/docs/0J15/9

 

As they say, it will also help to twist each pair of motor leads together in a spiral from ESC to motor, so the two wires "cancel" each other's radiated emissions.

 

Finally, and I realize this would affect your trim and ballast, try moving the rear battery up forward beside the other one so its noisy lead isn't near the Receiver and ESC. You could then twist the leads from batteries to ESC for the same reasons.

 

You're very close........eyes on the prize!!   👍

 

 

 

 

Thanks Ian.  If this boat ever hits the water you will have a big hand in getting it there.

[bcochran]

If anyone wants to build this model boat.  There is a Marx version on eBay right now.  The Marx version has metal parts which I think are superior to Lindberg's plastic ones. You would have to paint the metal parts to make them look like chrome but that is not hard with spray paint.

The price is probably prohibitive though. They want $299 plus $74 shipping.  That price is close to a Dumas wood one on eBay that is similar.

 

I would like to have both but not at that price.  I would like to make another with a white hull.  There is a Lindberg Sport Fisherman boat for $425.  I would like to make that too but I think it is too expensive.  Off all I would like to try my hand at the Dumas Chris Craft Commander.  It is listed at $325 plus $30 shipping.  I just might spring for it and start another log so everyone could watch me crash and burn.  I usually work in plastic.

 

Edited June 8 by bcochran

[Ian_Grant]

Just another thought - you said there's no hobby shop near you; what if you call the guy at Big Rich Models who curated your electronics? He'd probably be happy to talk you through debugging the boat.

[bcochran]

54 minutes ago, Ian_Grant said:

Just another thought - you said there's no hobby shop near you; what if you call the guy at Big Rich Models who curated your electronics? He'd probably be happy to talk you through debugging the boat.

I'm going to do that.

[bcochran]

 A few aditions to the boat, a lense and and electrical connection for the light, a radar dome, controls for the motors and Fido the dog.

[bcochran]

A top  down view of the deck.  I want to finish the boat before I get back to the R/C equipment.  I want to try everything Ian  has suggested. I just have some paint touch up and I am figuring out how to realistically hang the dingy from the davits.  I replaced the plastic stanchions and davits with metal ones from a Marx Constellation kit.  I want the dinghy to be solidly attached so I won't lose it when she cruises the pond. 

Edited June 12 by bcochran

[bobandlucy]

I have joined the girls on the deck. Can someone pour me a whiskey? Rocks, please.

 

Bob

[bcochran]

25 minutes ago, bobandlucy said:

I have joined the girls on the deck. Can someone pour me a whiskey? Rocks, please.

 

Bob

If I could find another 1/20 guy I would add him and call him bobandlucy.

[bcochran]

Well the building of the boat is complete for all intents and purposes.  There are a ton of little flaws but I just have to live with them.  Somebody go and buy the Marx version on eBay now and out do me. I have a wild hair up my *** that's telling me to buy it and make one with a white hull and turquoise roof.  Or buy the Dumas Chris-Craft Commander.  It is a wood kit.  I'd make another log if I do.

 

I know how I want to hang the dinghy from the davits. I ordered some pulleys for it.  I hope the are the right size.

 

This boat is not finished.

 

Last time before I got to the r/c parts my log was marked finished.

Edited June 12 by bcochran

[bcochran]

My pulleys came in the mail today.   Now I can rig my dinghy realistically.

Edited June 12 by bcochran
added a picture

[bcochran]

Well the dingy is hanging off the davits with pulleys.  It's not too realistic but it is better than than string alone I think.

So now I have no excuse to not working on the R/C equipment.

Edited June 13 by bcochran

[bcochran]

This is me resting on the Port San Luis pier after a puzzling, confusing and a bit on the difficult side build. All the stress and anxiety is over.  On to the R/C equipment after a brief rest.

Edited June 12 by bcochran

[MAGIC's Craig]

I will be following along with your R/C progress since I would like to get a better appreciation for the wiring sequence as well as the "do's and don't's" as I build the system into my current build.  Since home for me is relatively close to yours, I look forward to perhaps seeing your project underway.  Very nice work!

 

[bcochran]

14 hours ago, MAGIC's Craig said:

I will be following along with your R/C progress since I would like to get a better appreciation for the wiring sequence as well as the "do's and don't's" as I build the system into my current build.  Since home for me is relatively close to yours, I look forward to perhaps seeing your project underway.  Very nice work!

 

I will be at Waller park pond in Santa Maria when I put in the water.  I have no idea when that will be.

Edited June 13 by bcochran

[bcochran]

I found a little cocktail table for my voyagers to put their drinks and beers on.  It is from a pizza box. It's used to keep the pizza from getting crushed. I cut the legs down and painted it.

 

This boat is getting to be like a doll house.  I'm thinking of buying the Marx version on eBay and instead of motorizing it, put a complete interior in it.

Edited June 13 by bcochran