Lowell Grand Banks Dory by Wookiewithacamera - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale - First Build

[Wookiewithacamera]

Hello, first time poster and I hope I'm posting in the appropriate area of the forums. I have a few years of off and on model building experience from easy to advanced plastic kits. My experience with ships in general has been very sour, due to poor quality kits and have never been finished. I currently have 1 completed plastic ship kit, and it was from a film/animation and not historically accurate.

 

Like most, I knew people with big ship models on display in their home; however these were all bought prebuilt. Else I would have started my journey sooner. After much research I started searching for my first. I found an Amazon kit that had a comment that said the kit was labeled "beginner" but they explained it was more of an intermediate. They did however point the readers towards the Model Expo Series for beginners. That new to purchase a Lowell Grand Banks Dory rowboat kit from them, plank on frame. So here I am.

 

Log 1-3  - A Wookies Dory Trials.

I joined MSW late in my project, as I had questions. I have made it to the prep stage of planking, as seen below.

 

I ran into a few problems and have tried to flex my problem solving, in order to make it this far. First I broke a small part, which I haven't used yet, so that's a future issue that will be addressed. Then I broke frame 5, but fixed it with Gorilla Extra Strong Wood glue. Later in the assembly I snapped frame 3 on both sides, in the same place as frame 5; the small tabs that slot into the... Upper bulkhead sort of section of the frame. I fixed this as well, hoping it doesn't bite me later as a weak part. My issue currently is on the clearness of the Bevel step? The manual explains that transom, stem, bottom and frames all need beveled. I have started to bevel the stem, as shown in the singular included image. I sanded both sides to a 45* till they meet and the char begins to vanish.

 

I feel this is correct, but I am going by the image in the manual. I tried to look online for some clarity and found a forum somewhere that someone had mentioned that beveling the bottom isn't necessary and can cause issues later while planking. I need to know if that's true. I am doing my best to complete this, right, the first time. As not to learn any bad habits. Do I now bevel a 45 or appropriate angle into just the fine edge of the transom? It says to skip frame 3, when beveling these. I am holding a piece of the left over wood from the previous steps against the side to get a general idea of where bevels on frames may be, and how much angle may be needed. I've seen images of transoms being overlapped, when planking, a great deal. Then I've seen images of frames and transoms with no bevel, being planked upt to the flat edges. Everything so far has been eyeballed, as far as plumbness. As I am working only with included tools. I have no straight edge, vise, or saw. A saw is only my last to get asap, as I am shooting pieces around the room trying to cut timber with a chisel #17 as instructed.  I also cannot clamp my ship to my desktop, as it was made from a door blank, it is thicker than any clamp I own. I am mostly just looking for some clarification to make sure I am not overlooking any crucial details, as I feel the manual is a bit lacking for a first model in the series. 

 

Edited January 1, 2023 by Wookiewithacamera
Redundancy

[Wookiewithacamera]

I've started beveling the frame ribs and the garboard plank. I posted on here to ask a question of clarification and haven't received any response. So I  continued on as best as I could. I've already already made an error and am hoping to doesn't affect me too badly later. I beveled my garboard plank to a 45*, as I did not Read Ahead in the manual. I was attempting to slow down, and it screwed me up.

 

This may be my last post/log, as it seems this website is no longer active or by extension, the members are no longer active. I will continue to look for guidance elsewhere, in hopes to learn these skills properly, and not just give up. The lack of folks to converse with makes it much more difficult. 

[druxey]

OK, good start. You need to picture the side planks against the frames, stem and bottom planks. Use a flexible sanding stick to get the bevels right. And sometimes it takes a day or so for folk to respond - especially over the holidays!

[allanyed]

2 hours ago, Wookiewithacamera said:

the members are no longer active.

 A belated welcome to MSW.  It would be a nice thing if you posted an introduction about yourself in the new member forum and definitely mention your current build.  It may lead more members to your build log. 

 

Look at the bottom of the main page as it shows the number of members as well as the number that are on the site at any given time.   There are usually several hundred and as many as 2000 or more.  Also, look at the number of views your log has had which is shown next to your build log name in the build log forum.  You have already had 125 views of your build log.   It may just be that no one had an answer at that moment, and as pointed out by Druxey, the holidays find many members with higher priorities such as family activities.  Remember that patience is perhaps the most important personal characteristics one requires to be a successful ship model builder.  That said we all have our moments 😀

 

Again, welcome to MSW

 

Allan

Edited December 27, 2022 by allanyed

[Wookiewithacamera]

I was beginning to wonder. I posted back ok December 11th. I guess I looked at it from the other side. Thinking people would be working on new projects after Xmas, so people would be "at their workbench". 

 

As far introduction, I put that in my first log post as I didn't notice there was a designated intro thread. I was just eager toy question out there. 

[Ryland Craze]

Hi Wookie and welcome to Model Ship World.  The Lowell Grand Banks Dory is an excellent kit to start learning the skills necessary to build wooden ship models.  There are many build logs on this site for that kit.  You have gotten off to a good start and you definitely want to bevel where the planks lie against the frames and the bottom.  Keep up the good work.

[rcmdrvr]

I kind of agree with Wookie.  I have noticed some builds that have extensive comments from readers either making suggestions or admiring great work.  Many other builds do not get many comments or suggestions.  This can be very disheartening for the build author; especially the more novice of the forum that are looking for guidance and most of all support.  I think everyone who is a member of this forum knows that ship model building brings on quite a bit of anxiety and frustration that can lead to a modeller giving up on a project.  The encouragement that comes from other modellers commenting and encouraging you along helps many to complete their current project and maybe move onto the next.  I do get the occasional comment or suggestion some of which in my Cairo build really helped.  Mostly, however, I get likes.  Great; but I would really wish that members of this forum, especially you master builders, take a few minutes to offer your advice and encouragement to other builders.

 

Enought editorial.  Wookie, from your photos you are doing great.  Give us more.  I built this model and you will enjoy your final product.

[allanyed]

50 minutes ago, rcmdrvr said:

I would really wish that members of this forum, especially you master builders, take a few minutes to offer your advice

 A critique includes postives and negatives and many folks do not take kindly to the negatives so a lot of the more experienced builders avoid saying anything to avoid repercussions. 

Allan

 

 

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Wookie, a while ago Chuck started a thread called “Take the “ 2 build log challenge” !!! Any Takers”. ( You’ll have to search for it )  It is worth a read just so that you can see that members are indeed trying to resolve the issue you and many others are facing. In the meantime just go to other build logs of subjects that interest you and leave comments there. Make sure to add a link to your build log in your signature so that they can have a look at your work. Good luck with your build. It’s looking good.

[Wookiewithacamera]

Log 4 - The waves are choppy 

 

After a little more research and studying it seems my terminology was a little off or lacking. I beveled my port garboard strake to a complete 45*, when I was supposed to rolling bevel, leaving a bit of flat on the char surface. The starboard garboard strake I did the rolling bevel.

 

My gardboards are currently bending/drying. The port garboard is ready for glueing, and the starboard is clamped and drying. I decided to continue and just embrace my mistakes. I'm already noticing my 3 frame is leaning. I believe this is because that frame broke and during repair it had to be dismounted from the bottom planks and reglued. The pressure from the rubber bands and the fresh glue caused it to slide and lean towards the stern. 

 

We continue on. 

 

 

Thanks to everyone commenting. I will try to exercise more patience and problem solving in the future. As well as rereading steps to prevent wasting timber.

 

[rcmdrvr]

I sure that everyone who has built a wooden ship model has broken a piece, or two, or three.  I keep a supply of various types of lumber handy just for those times when I have to fashion a new part or even create a part that the kit did not provide.

[Wookiewithacamera]

I need to consider finding some spare timber. I only have what was provided in the kit. There was one very small part, which I haven't gotten to yet, that broke when unpacking it. I think it was a small batten for a much later step. I figured I'd replace it with a corn dog stick, if need be. Haha

[VTHokiEE]

What type of wood was the kit made up of? You can find basswood pretty easily at many hobby stores depending on where you are. Alternatively, there are two lumber sponsors (one in the US and one in the EU) if you want different lumber.

[rcmdrvr]

I tend to keep various sizes of basswood sticks and sheets.  I also use very thin plywood you can find in a hobby shop.  The more exotic woods I tend to rely on the kit.  I have made many a part from scapes.  A box of round toothpicks is great to keep around for all sorts of tasks.  I also keep popsicle sticks around.  Combine then with adhesive sandpaper of various grits and you can make some great custom tools.

[Wookiewithacamera]

Log 5 - Strange Tides

 

 I've glued both garboard strakes in place, and allowed 24 hours between each, before handling. Transom and bottom edges have been sanded and are flush. 

 

I released the broad/middle strake, one at a time, for beveling. Due to the nature of the bevels, I opted to only release a strake at a time, to prevent mix ups. As I noticed the strakes were more narrow at one end, I chose to out the more narrow of the two ends, toward the bow stem. Leaving the fatter end to the transom as this end receives the majority of sanding. Again the instructions have been worded In a way where I am getting beginning to think is intentionally vague. I laid the broad for test fitting and proceeded to stare and calculate the secrets of the universe. The manual called for rolling bevels on top, bottom and both ends. At first I was a little confused as to how you accomplish this on the ends, once they're already beveled.. After test fitting and looking closer at the manuals image, I noticed that the image showed the top and bottom being angled in same direction. I beveled the bottom edges just like before, and the top I flipped and sanded in the same direction but on the "inside" as instructed. I came to the conclusion that this is for laying flat, thin beveled ends against each other, at the joint of the broad and garboard strakes. While the manual is frustrating, I am thankful for it forcing me to figure out the Why's, instead of the mindless part-by-number system of the plastic counterparts. Once the top and bottom was beveled, and started thinking about how to rolling bevel the ends, after the first two bevels have been made. I was concerned that winging this bevel step would result in accidentally removing the previous rolling bevels. I decided to continue after coming to the conclusion that maybe it would look like the edge of a tantos point. Realizing I watch far to many blacksmiths on YouTube and too many seasons of Forged in Fire, has paid off.. the wife is still in disbelief on the matter. 

 

I laid in this bevel as a rolling bevel, continuing the "edge" up from the corner to a third of the edge. I then flipped my work and proceeded in the same manner from that beveled corner up to a third. I then lightly sanded both sides of the middle, but leaving approximately half of the strake thickness and the char line behind. Once I mount this strake, I will release, bevel, and take a photo of the next broad strake. But for now, this is my best way of describing my work.

 

I soaked my strake in hot water for awhile, and started the painful process of what the manual refers to as: Creative Clamping. Ive realized at this point, that flat bottoms suck. Building upside down, leaves little space for clamping, the further I down I work. 😑

I will be thankful when I start a keel structure, as I am not looking forward to the same frustration on the Sailing Pram.

A little rewetting? Was required at this point, as it took me awhile to figure out how to clamp it. I am hoping it will not damage the strake, but I am also hoping I won't have to repeat the soaking/clamping again to take the bend. 

[VTHokiEE]

Looks like you’re making good headway. Visualizing how to clamp, create jigs, guides, etc while frustrating can be so rewarding when you finally figure out one of the right ways to do it (for me this is usually right after I finished doing whatever the task was one of many wrong, or maybe better described as more difficult, ways 😁). I hope you’re enjoying yourself - it can be such a fun hobby!

Edited January 1, 2023 by VTHokiEE

[druxey]

Looks very good so far. Rewetting basswood as required will not harm it. Aso, if you dent it while clamping, a judicious remoistening of the depressed area will re-expand the wood fibers.

[Wookiewithacamera]

4 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

Looks like you’re making good headway. Visualizing how to clamp, create jigs, guides, etc while frustrating can be so rewarding when you finally figure out one of the right ways to do it (for me this is usually right after I finished doing whatever the task was one of many wrong, or maybe better described as more difficult, ways 😁). I hope you’re enjoying yourself - it can be such a fun hobby!

The closest thing I have to a jig, is my desk vise from Artisenia Latina. I got it for Christmas, but obviously only works on keels. So I haven't been able to really use it. Instead I use the clamps that came with it to clamp my base to my cutting mat. Really helps for sanding so the whole model isn't sliding around. 

[VTHokiEE]

8 hours ago, Wookiewithacamera said:

The closest thing I have to a jig, is

More and more I’m learning that I need to make custom holders and jigs with (typically scrap) wood or other things I have lying around to get the job done. I’ve seen some very elaborate home made jigs on the forum as well but it seems like “custom” is often the right way to get it done.

[Wookiewithacamera]

Log 6

These past 2 days I've been working on prepping and bending the sheer planks. I started gluing down the first of the two, and noticed the transom batten? Is above the sheer. It didn't look right so I slowly stripped off the sheer with a cotton swab and iso alcohol. I am now attempting to bend it a little more to-shape, before trying to mount it again. I have seen images of the top of the transom being lined up with the top of the sheer, and others it's lined up with the batten? Not the top of the transom itself. Is there some sort of common practice? Or is it subjective? 

[Wookiewithacamera]

I recently purchased a curling iron, that I've started using as a cheap plank bender. My previous problem was improved, by better bending, with more shape then previous strakes. I am now regretting not getting one sooner. This has changed my outlook on planking. At first it was quite frustrating. Without an array of clamps, for small boats, I found myself unable to clamp things appropriately. This led to subpar bending. With the limited space I have on these upside down models, I was struggling with clamping planks. I bought materials today to construct my own micro plank clamps. I had made a few of the modified binder clip clamps, but have run into the issue of them no longer being good enough. I grabbed a handful of knurled head machine bolts, wings nuts, and some scrap wood. As the only places I could buy these micro clamps were ebay and alliexpress, with a month shipping time. The costs were also far too high, for such small parts. So I'll be crafting these clamps over the next few days, before continuing. I've also ordered a copy of Ship Model Building Simplified paperback, and Ship Model Builders Assistant, hoping to expand my knowledge a bit. 

[VTHokiEE]

On 1/5/2023 at 2:57 PM, Wookiewithacamera said:

I have seen images of the top of the transom being lined up with the top of the sheer, and others it's lined up with the batten

Do you have a link to these two styles? I imagine it may be a little subjective for the builder though.

 

29 minutes ago, Wookiewithacamera said:

Without an array of clamps

My wife teased my over Christmas that I’m always asking for clamps 😂. I forget the name but there are some long nose spring clamps that are quite useful if you can track any down. 
 

I think this was the set I got:

[Wookiewithacamera]

I got spring clamps with my kit, that are similar but maybe a bit harsher. They gave me steel with rubber tips. They dent my planks every time. 

 

I bought 2 mini bar clamps today when I picked up the material for my smaller ones. 

They still aren't quite small enough.

 

 

These are what I'm making right now. 

 

 

 

[VTHokiEE]

19 minutes ago, Wookiewithacamera said:

They dent my planks every time.

You might be able to avoid the dents from some clamps by placing some scrap wood between the clamps and you model. I have some of those tiny ones as well but they are a bit strong as you say.

[Wookiewithacamera]

I was using cardstock but it was still damaging the finish. I was also having issues with them pulling the pieces apart, inward. Woke up this morning and the spring clamp had shot off of the transom and snapped off the end of the plank. Luckily, it broke right at the transom, so it was salvageable. 

[Wookiewithacamera]

Log 7. - Finish or not? 

 

After a little frustration and more vague instructions; I've managed to make a dent in the last few steps. The sheer strakes went down much easier after using the curling iron technique to add heat to the timber. This has made glueing much more compliant, with less spring back.

 

 

My mini clamps didn't really turn out to be very useful, the smaller of the two clamping surfaces ended up too small; leaving unbalanced gripping. I will address that at a later time. The one thing that really irritates me about the strakes is that they don't line up across starboard and port sides, when looking down the bow. I've come to accept this is one of the forewarned "stacking issues" when planking. I know now to pay more attention to this when glueing.

 

My transom is still a little off in it's alignment with the sheer, band; and soon, the cap rail. 

 

The side cleats, and seat risers have been installed. I couldn't really figure out where the placement was intended for the riser, so I went with aligning its top edge with the top edge of the garboard strake. This way the seat would sit just below the midway point.

 

 

My overall profile is wrong, and I know it. I feel it's due to the clamps included in the kit. It has taken on more of a canoe shape, which is disheartening. But I am trying to just finish at this point, despite losing my motivation to. In my mind it should be scrapped. I am so frustrated that I've stopped for the day. I am hoping that the cap rail will go on. At this point i am concerned about it. 

 

The stem needed to be trimmed because of the shortness in the strakes, and beveled to match the original as much as possible. Another issue I ran into, the instructions did not specify what timber was intended for the false stem. There wasn't one in the kit, and it didn't specify a size if it was spare timber. So I ended up using the extremely small timber in the kit. I believe it was 1/16. However it was square, and not very wide. After beveling this part I can tell it wasn't quite wide enough. 

 

 

  

[druxey]

That shape can easily be fixed, so don't despair! Moisten the inside of the planks from the point where the curve becomes concave, let things soften and re-mold to the correct convexity. The planks may tend to come away from stem and transom, but can easily be reglued.

[Wookiewithacamera]

I wasn't sure that would work. I had a feeling it would throw off the whole model since everything is cut to length now and the band is on. I had thought about that though. At first I thought it would need completely tore down. 

[VTHokiEE]

I think I have felt times of despair while building a few of my models (especially on ones where I am doing something completely new to me). I’ve learned a lot going through each difficult spot and would encourage you to press on. Treat this kit as a learning experience - hopefully you can improve the hull shape but if not there may still be some solid learning that you might get as you continue.

[Wookiewithacamera]

Log 8 - Repairs and a down hill struggle. 

I fixed the overall shape a little. But as expected the transom joints for all the planks came unbound. I ha e tried wood glue, watered down wood glue, and super glue. It looks terrible but I can't get it to stay together, because I have no way of clamping this area. I can't use my clips, as it will just put the canoe shape back in. All my binder clips don't open wide enough to accommodate for the transom width. The soaking of the bow also turned the glue seams white, not sure why. It looks very boogered up now. I knew I made a mistake buying a model I wasn't going to enjoy. I hate flat bottoms. I expected a keel structure. I don't know why flat bottom is considered easier. I've read a few chapters of my new book, and it suggested a small fishing schooner to start, so I learn keep assembly, planking and rigging. I'm not sure why I wasted money on the Dory and pram, when I'll never build a flat bottom again after these 2 kits. This is quite annoying. 

 

The super glue looks like it sort of started to hold, but it still looks really bad. Before the repair all my seams were clean and beautiful. But attempting to fix the canoe shape has really taken a toll.

The yellowing on the bottom was me trying to use the included kit glue. After I finished the bottom I immediately switched to dry-natural gorilla wood glue.