Bounty Launch by iMustBeCrazy - 1:16 - SMALL

[iMustBeCrazy]

All frames glued up, just need the pins cut. Everything else just sitting there, not glued. It looks a little like a boat.

 

[oakheart]

47 minutes ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

It looks a little like a boat.

That is looking really good.

Can't wait to  see the planking go on.

 

Tim

[iMustBeCrazy]

Still only the frames glued, still working out what I need on the jig before I glue it.

 

I've added supports for the transom and breasthook/gunwale to the drawing and tabs to the moulds to support the frames while fairing.

 

[oakheart]

3 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

tabs to the moulds to support the frames while fairing.

That looks looks like it should do the job, nicely done.

 

Tim

[iMustBeCrazy]

Well, she probably doesn't look much different but the jig has been modified and glued, the transom rough shaped and the rabbet cut.

Something went wrong with the printout of the notched strips for the jig and I finished up having to correct all the notches with a file which was a bummer as I was going to use them to square the moulds. Either the paper was too thin and slipped or it had excessive moisture.

 

 

[oakheart]

1 hour ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

Something went wrong

Don't you just hate it when that happens.

 

It's looking really good.

Are you ready to start on the planking?

 

Tim

[iMustBeCrazy]

13 minutes ago, oakheart said:

Are you ready to start on the planking?

Pushy pushy

 

Not yet, gunwales to size and bent, breasthook shaped to take gunwales, gunwale glued to breasthook, frames glued to gunwales, keel glued to frames, transom glued to gunwales and keel then planking (I think).

[oakheart]

1 minute ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

Pushy pushy

No really  🙂  I just want to see how you do it, I am having some problems with mine, so looking for clues.

Just like you said, it gets more interesting.

 

Tim

[iMustBeCrazy]

Gunwales bent and trimmed, breasthook shaped and glued to stem.

 

Next I have to remove keel and frames and apply cling film anywhere glue might stick. Then put the frames back glueing them to the gunwale and the keel back glueing it to the frames. I think?

 

[iMustBeCrazy]

5 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

Then put the frames back glueing them to the gunwale

Well that bit is done (except frame 8). I think I'll let the glue cure overnight before the next step.

It's a good thing I bought more clips the other day.

 

 

[oakheart]

7 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

It's a good thing I bought more clips the other day.

That's something I learned early in this game, you can't have too many clips, clamps or elastic bands to hand when gluing up.

I sometimes wish I had an extra hand or finger too.

 

Looking good so far.

 

Tim

[iMustBeCrazy]

Garboards installed.

 

 

Possible appearance:

 

[oakheart]

1 hour ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

Garboards installed.

Huzzah......!

 

Tim 

[iMustBeCrazy]

This post is a copy of something I posted in Tim's ( @oakheart ) build log, I'm repeating it here as I'm going to continue it a bit in the next post.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Right or wrong, this is what I do.

 

First determine the maximum height up the stem of the garboard. This varies with the breadth of the plank. Cut a piece of plank the same breadth as the garboard short enough to sit in a straight section of the keel rabbet, use this as a spacer for a straight piece of balsa which reaches to the stem rabbet. That point is the maximum height up the stem of the garboard.

At this point you can take measurements to get the curve of the garboard in the stem rabbet (put tick marks on the balsa and note measurements) but I tend to 'wing it'.

 

Fit the garboard strakes.

 

Now some maths, working out the breadth of the 'normal' strakes. Measure the distance from the garboard to the top of the sheer strake and subtract any 'abnormal' strakes, in the case of this launch remember to measure the outside of the planks not just along the frames as the planks will be narrower on the inside of the curve. Divide by the number of 'normal' strakes. If the result at the stem (or transom) is less than half the maximum breadth (at station 0) consider adding another strake.

Note that at the stem the number is the length along the stem rather than the breadth of the plank.

Repeat the calculations for each frame. And you should re-check your calculations after each strake.

 

I then use the masking tape method to get the abutting shape of the next strake.

I then shape and test, shape and test, shape and test, shape and test, shape and test the next plank.

I then use the calculated widths to shape the other edge of the plank. (note the measurements noted on the plank in pic 3 above).

 

Rinse and repeat.

 

[iMustBeCrazy]

My take on the masking tape method.

 

A piece of tape is placed on the model overlapping the preceding plank. It should lie flat simulating the plank you are going to make and not have any edge set, just laying naturally not forced.

 

I then mark the edge of the preceding plank, the transom, the frames, especially frame 0, and the stem rabbet. Note that I marked the rabbet wrong in the following picture, it should be a curve.

I then transfer the tape to a board and cut the shape of the preceding plank and the the opposite edge slightly oversize (say 2mm).

 

I test fit the new plank on the model against the preceding plank and sand away any high points, rinse and repeat until the plank fits.

I should then be able to use this plank as a template for the other side of the hull. (I will use the one below as a template for both sides while correction my 'rabbet' error).

 

I then use the measurements (previous post) to shape the opposite edge.

 

 

[oakheart]

2 minutes ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

My take on the masking tape method.

A piece of tape is placed on the model overlapping the preceding plank. 

I will have to try this with tape, all of the tape I have at the moment is opaque.

I have used some 90gsm tracing paper which sort of works.

The  problem with using paper is its a bit stiff and when transfering the shape to the wood, you have to cut the paper to shape then run a pencil round the edge,  it's awkward and fiddly to get accurate. The tape method looks much simpler to do.

I will look for some different masking tape, I tried parcel tape and sellotape, but could not get any marks, pencil or pen to stay on the tape. 

I see some people have used the special 'invisible'  matte tape which I don't have.

 

Tim

[iMustBeCrazy]

20 minutes ago, oakheart said:

I see some people have used the special 'invisible'  matte tape which I don't have.

I've used it and it's ok but I grabbed the wider ( 1 1/2") tape one time and it stays flatter.

 

You don't really need see through. Pressing the pencil against the edge/corner of the plank will give you a good enough line. You don't want an exact cut, leave a little 'meat' to sand off.

[iMustBeCrazy]

A bit of a weird update.

 

1st a collage of some of the steps of making a plank.

 

1/ Using tape to mark edge.

2/ Stinking tape on board.

3/ VERY roughly marking the other edge.

4/ roughly cut out.

5/ Roughly sanded and test fitted, high points (between arrows) marked.

6/ High points lightly sanded, test fitted again, new high points marked.

After that I got more serious, took the tape off and marked in pencil, added a VERY important alignment mark.

After I fitted that pair of strakes

 

It was time for some checking.

 

First I found a new use for calipers, you can use them to compare both sides of the keel, I found the third strake starboard side had crept forwards about 0.5mm. Not bad but fixed anyway.

I then redid the plank width calculations for the area remaining, the worst was at frame 'D' where the remaining strakes needed to be 0.3mm narrower which is pretty good.

 

 

 

[allanyed]

Craig,

My apologies if I missed it, but where did you get the amount of overlap of the floors and futtocks?  I know I have seen it somewhere but can't remember where and if it was based on contemporary information.  Also, do you know if this construction goes back to the 17th century or did it come about sometime in the 18th century?

Thanks

Allan

[iMustBeCrazy]

17 minutes ago, allanyed said:

but where did you get the amount of overlap of the floors and futtocks?

The diagonals, I think I remember them marking the heads and heels of the floors and futtocks, but I might be wrong. And again it varies, some say the heels of the futtocks should come back to the keel but I can't see the need structurally.

I have no idea as to dates.

[allanyed]

Thanks Craig,  I'll do some digging.   In the meantime, I am pretty sure at 1:64, this method of construction will be a disaster.   We shall see.  

Allan

 

[iMustBeCrazy]

14 minutes ago, allanyed said:

1:64

(unintelligible choking noises)

[allanyed]

LOL!!!!   I need to build a 30 foot long boat, 28 foot pinnace and 18 foot yawl for a 50 gun of 1695.   I did the drawings, now just a matter of making sawdust when I have a chance to get to them.   At least it is only three, not five or six!!  I am pretty sure I will be going with making appropriate plugs to the inside of the frames and bending holly over the plugs versus cutting frames.     Still might worth a try cutting a frame or two to see if it can be done.  I have some English boxwood that I am sure will work but not enough for all three boats and 50 or 60 frames.   Castello might work, but I have some doubts until giving it a go.

 

Thanks for the laugh Craig

 

allan

[iMustBeCrazy]

1 hour ago, allanyed said:

Still might worth a try cutting a frame or two to see if it can be done.

Have fun, those futtocks will be 1/32 square at the head. To me that's getting close to needing a stereoscopic microscope and making cuts between heartbeats. No caffeine!

 

Edited February 3, 2023 by iMustBeCrazy

[iMustBeCrazy]

Just a minor update, planking continues slowly.

Although I've decided that the originals hull was most likely painted white I'm going leave mine natural with a coating of shellac, the timber is quite pale so it's 'close' to white and it will show off my work.

 

And a better visualisation of Allan's project

 

[oakheart]

22 minutes ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

it will show off my work.

Very nice work it is too. Planking is looking really good.

 

Tim

[iMustBeCrazy]

The carvel planking is done, the next two (landing and sheer strakes) will be clinker/lapstrake so I'm going to have to change the way I think.

 

 

[oakheart]

8 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

planking is done

 

Wow - that is impressive. Nice work indeed.

 

Tim

[iMustBeCrazy]

Thanks Tim, remember the tortoise and the hare. More importantly, take breaks while things are still going well.

 

[iMustBeCrazy]

Ok, I'm back. I got some insect repellent in my eyes and couldn't focus well enough for close work even with magnifying glasses. Better now.

 

Prior to that I fitted the landing strakes. These are clinker as mentioned above. This time I used a stepped rebate for the gains rather than the 45°s that I used on the small cutter. I glued depth stops to a pair of blades (you need a left and a right) and cut rebates going down to half the thickness of the planks. It worked well and was easier than the 45°.