Nisha by Glenn-UK - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'

[Glenn-UK]

019 - Seizing the  Blocks

In preparation for the rigging phase I have now seized all the blocks. This was a bit of tedious task but I have found that it makes the rigging process much easier and quicker to complete.

 

With reference to the plan sheets I started by making a detailed list of the different blocks, noting the thread that will pass through the block holes. I did check that the required thread would pass through the block holes, as it is easier to run a micro drill through at this stage if required. Although I do have a good supply of pear blocks I have opted to use the kit supplied blocks for this build.

 

All the blocks were wrapped with 0.25mm black thread and the seizing applied was black fly tying thread. I used the same method(s) that I have detailed in my previous build logs, which is to use a series of top and bottom half hitch knots when adding the seizing, with 6 knots of the bottom and 6 knots on the top.

 

With reference to the photo below I have also added the 0.25mm natural thread to the top 3mm single block and a thimble. The natural thread, when rigged, will pass through a block on the main mast before being belayed to the end of the boom. When seizing the bottom 3mm single block I did add the hook during the seizing process.

The next photo shows a 4mm double block seized with an eyebolt ready for installation on the gaff.

The top mast shrouds will be linked between 2 x 2.5mm thimbles. I have seized the thimbles to the chain plates in the photo below.

The next photo shows two 3mm single block which are ready to be added to the gaff. I normally use a clove hitch to secure these blocks to the gaff.

The next photo shows the various blocks required to be added to the main mast. With the exception of the 4mm double block they have all be seized to their respective PE parts. I have seized a length of 0.1mm natural thread to the thimble on the end of the 4mm double block.

In the final photo I have shown the two 4mm double blocks that will be required for the boom. The top 4mm double block will be secured to the boom using a clove hitch knot.

[Glenn-UK]

020 - Start of Shroud Rigging

With the deadeyes added to the chain plates I then started to add the shrouds. To set the distance between the shroud and chain plate deadeyes I used my jig as can be seen in the following photo's.

With the right-hand side completed the lanyards were then added. The right-hand side deadeyes look reasonably level. I have also checked the various shroud seizing positions so they look level when the lower ratlines are added. I will not trim the excess shroud material or belay the lanyards until I have added the deadeyes to the left-hand side shrouds and they have all be properly tensioned.

 

[Glenn-UK]

021 - Ratlines

I have now completed the task of adding the ratlines to the main mast shrouds. There was a ratline template provided on the shroud rigging plan sheet which I copied on to a piece of card. With the template in place the ratlines were added. I started by adding every 5th ratline as indicated by the "0" on the following photo. Next I added the central "1" ratlines and then completed the process by adding the "2" ratlines.

 

The ratlines are aligned with the template guide lines, although they do not appear to be do so in the photo below.

The completed ratlines are not my best work but I am happy to move on to adding the main mast stay, bowsprit and main top mast.

 

Edited February 6, 2023 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

022 - Main Topmast Shrouds

With the main mast shroud and ratline work completed I placed the main mast stay thread in position, but it has not been belayed.

 

Next I fitted the main top mast.

It was a relatively simple task to add the main topmast shrouds. The threads were seized to the PE part fitted to the top of the topmast using my quad hands.

With the top mast threads in place a thimble was seized to the shroud free ends and the lanyards were rigged between the thimbles.

The completed shrouds.

[Glenn-UK]

023 - Boom

This is a short post as there is not much to detail with regards to fitting the boom

 

A length of 3mm dowel was tapered down to 2mm using my proxxon mini lathe. The double block was secured to the end using a clove hitch knot. It was then a simple to add the rigging between the double blocks.

A length of thread was then secured to the end of the boom and fed, via a block on the main mast, to a double block arrangement for belaying.

The next task will be to taper a length of 3mm dowel for the gaff.

[Glenn-UK]

024 - Gaff Part 1

It did not take very long to taper a length of 3mm dowel for the gaff, using my proxxon mini lathe. I then added the 10 off cleats and the gaff jaws.

 

A small hole was drilled in the gaff so the 4mm double block seized to an eyebolt could be inserted for the gaff lift rigging. With the gaff held in my quad hands I then added the two off 3mm single blocks required for the peak halyard rigging.

The blocks were secured to the gaff using clove hitch knots.

The lift 4mm double block.

Using a small length of 0.25mm natural thread through the jaws the gaff was tied to the main mast. The main gaff lift rigging between the two 4mm double blocks was then added.

Finally the rigging for the peak halyards were added.

The various gaff rigging is now installed and the 2 off free ends for the lift and peak halyards are ready to belayed. However I am still undecided how to present the gaff. The normal position for an gaff without the sails would be just above the boom, as shown on the rigging plan sheets. I am more inclined to raise the gaff and rig in the same position as if the sails were fitted as I think this will look better when the completed model is on display. The picture below is sort of a halfway house option, which I am not keen on. I will continue to ponder this overnight before belaying the gaff rigging.

 

Edited February 7, 2023 by glennard2523

[Srenner]

Have you got your belaying plan clear ? On my jolie brise  the running rigging for the gaff needed to be threaded through the same side as the belaying point and through the shrouds.

[Glenn-UK]

9 minutes ago, Srenner said:

Have you got your belaying plan clear ? On my jolie brise  the running rigging for the gaff needed to be threaded through the same side as the belaying point and through the shrouds.

The belaying is very simple. They are belayed to cleats fitted on the main mast as can be seen on the attached photo.

[Glenn-UK]

025 - Completed Build

I have completed the build, the final task, after belaying the gaff rigging was to build the display stand.

 

This has been a interesting build and took me 1 month to build. I have been able to improve on some of my model making skills in readiness for my next project which will be the HMS Indefatigable (Indy) which is has been pre-ordered and the kit is due for release later this month or early March.

 

Another excellent design by @chris watton and I would highly recommended all of the kits available from Vanguard Models.

 

 

 

[AJohnson]

Well done Glenn! 

Wow one month to build Nisha!  Bet Chris is happier with customers of your build rate than mine, he'd be as poor as the proverbial "Church Mouse" otherwise! 🐭

[Glenn-UK]

6 minutes ago, AJohnson said:

Well done Glenn! 

Wow one month to build Nisha!  Bet Chris is happier with customers of your build rate than mine, he'd be as poor as the proverbial "Church Mouse" otherwise! 🐭

Many thanks. I now have a very nice collection of completed Vanguard Model kits. I would think the Indy build will  take me 2 to 3 years to complete so my spend rate with be in recession.

[ccoyle]

Nice job, Glenn!

[Glenn-UK]

4 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

Nice job, Glenn!

Thank you Chris

[Gus M]

Hi Glenn....

 

I really like this ship, it's beautiful, as you explain its evolution in such a detailed way, I think it's a great thread to see how to make a nice model and learn

thanks for sharing.
I following this thread, of course

[Glenn-UK]

6 minutes ago, Gus Martinez said:

Hi Glenn....

 

I really like this ship, it's beautiful, as you explain its evolution in such a detailed way, I think it's a great thread to see how to make a nice model and learn

thanks for sharing.
I following this thread, of course

Many thanks Gus. I have enjoyed building the 3 small fishing boats, makes a nice break from the more complex builds.

 

Next up for me will be HMS Indefatigable (Indy) which is due to be released in a couple of weeks. I think this will be a 2 to 3 year labour of love.

 

[Gus M]

@glennard2523 

We will be there to follow the evolution of HMS Indefatigable, of course.

I'm still starting, catching up with my Croos section  San Francisco, more than anything else to learn, and learn for my mistakes, but I hope in a short time to acquire the Zulu 'Lady Isabella' or the Fifie 'Lady Eleanor', I think they will be ideal to get me started in something more advanced, and this thread teaches many things for it.

[Glenn-UK]

20 minutes ago, Gus Martinez said:

@glennard2523 

We will be there to follow the evolution of HMS Indefatigable, of course.

I'm still starting, catching up with my Croos section  San Francisco, more than anything else to learn, and learn for my mistakes, but I hope in a short time to acquire the Zulu 'Lady Isabella' or the Fifie 'Lady Eleanor', I think they will be ideal to get me started in something more advanced, and this thread teaches many things for it.

The fishing boats from Vanguard Models are a great starting point.

[DB789]

Hi Glenn, your Nisha looks superb. Really nice to see one of these fishing boats without sails. Shows off her very clean lines. Look forward to seeing you build Indefatigable. 

[Glenn-UK]

4 minutes ago, DB789 said:

Hi Glenn, your Nisha looks superb. Really nice to see one of these fishing boats without sails. Shows off her very clean lines. Look forward to seeing you build Indefatigable. 

Thanks Dan

I am gearing up for the Indy which will be an interesting build.