Amerigo Vespucci by DanielD - OcCre - 1:100

[DanielD]

8 hours ago, Mike Dowling said:

I have spent some time trying to decide whether to do the second planking or leave it as it is. I just can't make my mind up. The instructions say to do a second layer and then smother it in filler before final sanding. But if the first layer is ok and the hull is going to be painted any way what do you think?

Well, I guess this is a personal decision for the AV. Since it has a metal hull, our attempt is to plaster the wood and make it look like metal. So a second layer is probably not necessary. I’ll probably add the second layer because the two other models I built, some areas sanded to get a smooth finish thinned out making the wall somewhat transparent with bright lighting inside. So I was glad to add the second layer. Not sure how this one will turn out.

[Mike Dowling]

I thought I would put a second layer on in case of light bleed. However, when I tried, the wood Occre have supplied for the second layer curls like mad when damp with glue and that makes it very difficult to stick down. I tried with a couple of planks and it was a disaster so I soaked them off again. I have concluded my best way forward which is to seal the wood with sanding sealer. I will then coat it in a thin layer of wet filler, the sealer should stop it soaking into the wood and smooth it with my fingers. Then I can sand it and give it some coats of primer which I hope will end up giving me a fairly smooth finish to paint on.

What do you think? Beware of that wood though!

[DanielD]

Mike, I'll keep that in mind. Right now I'm so far away from planking...I have so much more lighting to get finished, but now that the deck is completed, there should be rapid visual progress forthcoming.

[DanielD]

Good evening mates, time for an update. This weekend I spent time with more lighting. This time on the small structure on the main deck. This structure is only temporarily placed, but I have everything working.

Also, while impossible to see in any of these images, I installed the window glazing on all the port holes and skylights (not sure what the nautical name is for these) of this structure. Just a little more work to do and this one is finished.

 

Edited April 17, 2023 by DanielD

[VitusBering]

What brand / model of voltage regulators are those? There are dozens of choices on Amazon with subtle differences. Also, if you're so inclined, I'd like to know what LEDs you use and whether you added resistors to the leads. Thank you, and I love the work you've done so far.

[DanielD]

On 4/17/2023 at 6:47 AM, VitusBering said:

What brand / model of voltage regulators are those? There are dozens of choices on Amazon with subtle differences. Also, if you're so inclined, I'd like to know what LEDs you use and whether you added resistors to the leads. Thank you, and I love the work you've done so far.

Good morning VitusBering,

 

The voltage regulators that I used I purchased from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09L49XQYD?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1) specifically because each regulator can tolerate up to 3 amps and is adjustable from 1.5v to 35v with an input capability of 3-40v. Currently I'm running everything on a single 9v battery, but in the end all of the regulators will be built into the stand and plugged into a 3 amp 12v power brick. As it turns out, I love the adjustability of these regulators because I am able to easily adjust the brightness of each channel, so the deck lights can be turned down to a dim illumination. I use 3mm 1.8-2.3 volt various colored LED's with resistors that came with the LED's matched for 6v running voltage for full brightness at 20mA. I'm currently running my deck lights at about 3 volts, enough to turn on the LED's but allowing them to be dim, just to cast enough light that the viewer is able to see that the lighting works. My calculations indicate that I should be able to run about 150 20mA LED's on each regulator, but in reality, I'll cap out around a 200 LED's total for the project across several regulators. I hope this helps!

 

UPDATE: More helpful information (I hope)...The output voltage maximum will be 1.5 volts lower then the input voltage. For example, an input voltage of 9v, as with a standard rectangle battery and the way I have it running at the moment, the maximum output voltage will be 7.5 volts thus making the adjustable voltage regulator operational from 1.5 to 7.5 volts in this configuration. My final version will be operated from a 12 volt 3 amp power brick, thus giving my operating output range from 1.5 to 10.5 volts. Since I'm rigging my ship to run on 6 volts, all the 3mm LED's and the 6 volt motor for the propeller, this adjustable voltage regulator works perfectly. 

 

Given these specs, I can run a total of 400 LED's at full brightness (@ 20mA) and the 6 volt motor all on a 3 amp power brick. With my newest projected configuration for the lighting of this project, I anticipate around 200 LED's and the 6v motor...which allows for some power to spare. However, I really don't think everything will be on at the same time, but it could!

 

Final bit of information, if anyone is interested...Below is my temporary control panel which allows easy access to the output voltage adjustment. When finished and the voltages all set for the final model, I will build them all into the stand with just the switch visible with a nice description tag. Currently planned, 1) Deck Lighting - all the outside visible lights, mostly on the main deck, 2-3) Cabin Lights 1 and Cabin Lights 2, my plan is to be able to have two sets of port holes light up, one set with scattered lights or compartments that will have a realistic look of some port holes lit while others are dim, and the second set just the opposite giving me the ability to choose one or the other, or both to have all the port holes lit, 4) Night lighting which is what the Amerigo Vespucci is famous for, the Green, White and Red deck lighting that casts colored light up into the masts, 5) Marker Lights, you guessed it, the red (port), green (starboard), white/amber (stern) and the white lantern that sits on the Mizzen boom, 6) Emergency lighting - only a single red and a single flashing red emergency lighting located on the main deck (unless I discover that more exists on the AV), and last 6) the motor which is in the bowels' of the ship and will turn the single propeller at about 35 rpm, about 1 revolution every 2 seconds, really quite slow but don't want to injury someone. Well, that's the plan...we will see how it goes, but so far, so good.

Edited April 18, 2023 by DanielD

[VitusBering]

It helps immensely, thank you very much for the details. Again, you're doing wonderful work!

[DanielD]

Good evening mates, here is a mid week update. More detail on the main deck structure.

 

 

[Mike Dowling]

Your lighting system sounds amazing and very, very clever. Far beyond my limited electrical abilities. My main lighting including the hull, the mast lights and all the interior little building lights are 6v leds working off one battery. The deck lights on the little buildings are 3v and will run off a separate battery.

Anyway my question is, when you paint your hull, will you paint it gloss, satin or matt ? I can't work out what the real ship is painted with, can you? I am having serious trouble getting the hull 'metal' smooth and I think gloss will show up every flaw?

[DanielD]

12 hours ago, Mike Dowling said:

Anyway my question is, when you paint your hull, will you paint it gloss, satin or matt ? I can't work out what the real ship is painted with, can you? I am having serious trouble getting the hull 'metal' smooth and I think gloss will show up every flaw?

Mike, I've been looking at the hull, starting to think how I plan to paint everything. To me it looks like a satin, not really glossy but not matt either. I'll probably paint with what I have and put a satin clear sealer on everything. At least, that's my plan for now...subject to change.  

Edited April 20, 2023 by DanielD

[Mike Dowling]

Thanks Daniel, I think I had come to the same conclusion. I know it might sound silly but this ship does have a very large hull!! Hopefully with all the deck detail folk won't look too hard at the hull especially in the dark!!

[DanielD]

Good evening mates, well, I think this will be the last update for this structure on the main deck as I think I’m finished enhancing it over the stock kit. For starters, this structure is only temporarily installed on the deck, but an important build at this time for the added lighting, both inside and out that needs to be working before enclosing the hull with planking. Besides the lighting, other enhancements include signage, improved railing, window glazing for the port holes and the skylights, added the door, added roof supports, megaphone speakers, and several paint adjustments to make it look more like the real AV.

 

[DanielD]

Good evening mates, this weekends build is all about the last deck structure located on the foredeck, the chart room. OcCre did a number on this structure, it was never meant to have fixtures installed inside as the walls have to be installed at the same time as the ceiling/deck of the upper floor. Also, I had to do some filing on the windows as OcCre made them rectangle and they should have a curve on both the top and bottom. This would have been so easy to have built in with the laser cutting, but they didn’t. 😞 The lights for this structure will be two fold, the chart room will come on with the deck lights while the storage room, the aft 1/3 of this structure, will have its lights come on with either of one port hole switches or the second one or both. I hope it will be a nice touch.

 

The chart room consists of a bright blue floor, four chart storage standing desks with glossy wood tops, wood stained interior and almond white ceiling and aft wall…all matching the real Amerigo Vespucci.

 

Edited April 24, 2023 by DanielD

[Mike Dowling]

Wait until you get to the top part. That is real fun!!!

[VitusBering]

How are you planning to get power through the hull for lighting? For my own Cutty Sark build I only need 5 contacts for getting power to the nav lights and three deck houses and I am having trouble locating a suitable through-hull connector. I did find one from Miniatronics that was almost good enough - tiny and aesthetically pleasing but only 4 contacts max. I could put a couple or all of the houses on one circuit but I don't want to, so.., what are you using?

[Mike Dowling]

For my part I just made a hole in the false keel centrally midships with 4 wires departing the hull from there. They will be mostly hidden by the stand.

[VitusBering]

Thanks Mike - that is my Plan B. I would rather have a removeable plug but I'll hardwire it if necessary. An RJ45 Ethernet connector is a possibility but I am going to keep trying to find something less obnoxious 🙂

 

[edit] I did find some USB-C connectors that look nice and are not overly large. Problem probably solved.

Edited April 27, 2023 by VitusBering
Additional info

[DanielD]

On 4/27/2023 at 9:26 AM, VitusBering said:

How are you planning to get power through the hull for lighting?

VitusBering, well…to be honest, I’m still looking for something. I need 9 contacts for my lighting plan, so even an RJ45 is too small. I like your idea of the usb-c connector. If I’m not mistaken, that supports 24 contacts/wires. Where did you find both the male and female ends? Did you find the actual bare connectors or did you find a cable to splice in?

Edited May 1, 2023 by DanielD

[VitusBering]

The one I chose is a cable with male and female ends. I'll get a couple of them and cut the cables.

I plan to put a female end in the hull and another in the switch box.

Then any male-to-male usb cable should work to connect the two.

 

I don't know how many wires are in each cable but there should be more than nine.

I chose this  one because the female end is easily mounted and mostly concealable in the hull side or bottom.

 

Wow, this is a long URL, sorry for that.

https://www.amazon.com/AAOTOKK-3-1Panel-Adapter-Supports-Charging/dp/B08HS6X44P/ref=sr_1_19?crid=32MH4NKZQ565G&keywords=aaotokk+90+degree+usb+3.1+type+c+cable&qid=1682909240&sprefix=AAOTOKK+USB+Type+C%2Caps%2C104&sr=8-19

 

[edit] I did find a few examples of bare connectors but they didn't have a convenient way of mounting them except on a PCB.

Edited May 1, 2023 by VitusBering

[DanielD]

15 hours ago, VitusBering said:

The one I chose is a cable with male and female ends. I'll get a couple of them and cut the cables.

I plan to put a female end in the hull and another in the switch box.

Then any male-to-male usb cable should work to connect the two.

VitusBering, I think that will work for me just fine. Thank you for the info!

[VitusBering]

I intend to mount the voltage regulators on one of these project boards. I'll put that board in a nifty little wooden box and mount the switches, power connector for the 12v wall wart, and the usb connector in and on the box as well. Some of the components I need (standoffs and shrink tubing) are still in transit. I really dislike being at the mercy of online shopping but I do love this home and area despite the remoteness. When it is all together (probably a couple of weeks or so) I'll post a pic or two.

 

Thanks again for the tips on the regulators and LEDs, they're working out really well - my test circuits have great results - I adjusted the resistance on the different colors to get a good brightness balance with a nominal 3v supply. The led set came with an astonishing array of resistors of just about any value I could ever need and way more leds than I can ever use - but my better half wants to light up her Christmas cottages so it is a good thing I got a good supply of those regulators - there is probably a honey-do in the offing.

[DanielD]

On 4/30/2023 at 7:54 PM, VitusBering said:

[edit] I did find a few examples of bare connectors but they didn't have a convenient way of mounting them except on a PCB.

 

VitusBering, I found a possible USB-C mountable solution at Amazon that might be easily mounted easy solder connections, at least for the female side of things. https://www.amazon.com/Type-Female-Receptacle-Breakout-Board/dp/B07771CFFM/ref=pd_bxgy_vft_med_img_sccl_2/137-8656501-6613113?pd_rd_w=5YN1B&content-id=amzn1.sym.26a5c67f-1a30-486b-bb90-b523ad38d5a0&pf_rd_p=26a5c67f-1a30-486b-bb90-b523ad38d5a0&pf_rd_r=E6MH61KVDG3QVJ9DAMFM&pd_rd_wg=WIG8G&pd_rd_r=bda83ae7-cbce-462b-8ddb-cbc7ee577fbd&pd_rd_i=B07771CFFM&psc=1

[VitusBering]

That does look nice. Thanks for the tip!

[DanielD]

Good evening mates, I’ve been out of town for a few days so no progress…but this evening I did sit down and start the 3D rivet application to the chart house. These are 3D decals that are applied with decal set liquid and slid in place over top of the primed surface. Once the rivets are “stuck” and dried in place, a second application of fixer is applied. I’ll finish the other sides then air brush the entire structure in white followed by the AV yellow and then the trim. So much work for such a small structure.

 

Edited May 3, 2023 by DanielD

[DanielD]

16 hours ago, VitusBering said:

That does look nice. Thanks for the tip!

VitusBering: somewhere in the above posts you made a comment something to the effect that any USC-C cable should work. After you came up with the idea about hiding a usb-c connector along the bottom of the false keel, I started to think that is what I would do, and will do. However, during my research, not all usb-c cables are the same. For example, if you get a power usb-c cable, it only contains 4 wires, the other potential pins on the plugs are not connected. Also, if you use a data cable, which you will need to use to have more then 4 wires, the cables are not connected straight through. For example, pin A2 (Tx1+) on one end will connect to B11 (Rx1+) on the other end of the cable, etc. For this reason, I will be using two circuit boards I listed above with a short data cable between them. Then I can map out, using a volt meter, a contact on one end to the correct pin on the other to make my entire system work. Using a usb-c connector on the base and at the bottom of the ship is a great idea! Just have to take a few things into consideration. Hope this helps.

[VitusBering]

I should have mentioned that in my post. Great minds think alike. I do intend to use a data cable and map the connections using a multimeter. Of course, I don't care about the "real" intended use of the pins. I may well use the the device you listed above in the switch box, and maybe in the hull. I have ordered a couple of them, to have on hand in addition to the ones I planned to mangle. Which one(s) I use is to be determined. Thank you very much again. Your build is looking fantastic.

 

[edit] totally off-topic but this all brings back a flood of memories from a time before time when I did tech support. I still remember the RS-232 null cable pinout of 2->3, 3->2, 6 to 8 and 20. I wish I didn't remember 🙂

Edited May 3, 2023 by VitusBering

[DanielD]

Good evening everyone, another update on the AV chart room.

 

 

[DanielD]

Good day mates, almost finished with the AV chart room for now, maybe tonight. Current state of affairs…this is the first time I have ever attempted to make moldings.

 

Edited May 9, 2023 by DanielD

[VitusBering]

Beautifully crafted.

[DanielD]

Hello all, I have a couple of updates, one of which I could use a little help. First, the last, for now, update on the chart room. Paint and lighting all finished, but still have to complete the second level.

 

Next, I’m struggling a bit with the scale of side marker lighting. In the same image as the chart room is my second attempt, this one made in brass. I think I have the shape close, see second image of the real AV port marker and housing, but I’m not sure about the scale. I have no measurements or drawings, just building by sight and this image I found on line. Clear images of the side marker lighting are very hard to find. I only have two and this is the better of them. What is your opinion? Side marker look okay or a bit too big?