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HMS Winchelsea by jfhealey - fully rigged version


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Thank you gentlemen for your kind remarks and likes which, as always, as a comparative newcomer to this hobby, I greatly appreciate.

 

I decided to focus on the fo'c'sle and bows. To that end I rigged 6 cannons with Syren Ultra rope. They were glued in before Chuck made the capsquares available in this scale. I doubt it matters very much: they will be difficult to see when the foredeck is part planked. I will use the Syren capsquares for the remainder however.

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Funny how you see things in the pictures you overlook when looking at the piece - I see there is a ringbolt missing but nothing I can do about it now. Here they are glued in.

 

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With these six guns installed I can put in the deck beams for the foredeck. I made up the manger from costello boxwood along with the mast partner, mast foot and the little Y shaped piece

 

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I reworked the lower frieze. Looking at page 1 of chapter 1 of the instructions it appears the frieze starts (and perhaps ends at the bows) with a fairly conventional acanthus leaf decoration before the painters and decorators went off on one. I had a go at replicating that. 

 

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And this is what it looks like fixed on.

 

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I spent a lot of time making up fixed blocks in costello box without realising the extent to which they disappear in situ. I decided to glue the Syren parts, sanded very thin and edge bevelled to the planking and to paint them, as best I was able, to match the friezes. Here they are.

 

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This is where I am now.

 

 

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All the best 

Fred

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Good mrning all and thabk you for your kind words.

 

The head rails and the whole head assembly are a miracle of design and engineering. The top rails fit together perfectly straight out of the box without even showing them a piece of sandpaper. The head timbers I found less easy. I quickly realised that filing out the mortices for the lower rails was likely to confound me. I adopted a different approach: I did not cut mortices at all but rather cut the lower rail in to four sections and carefully fitted the pieces between the head timbers. I used a 5 minute epoxy for that on the footing it has some gap filling properties which I would need. It actually worked out reasonably well. There is a bit of "swelling" around some of the joints resulting from the generous application of the epoxy but nothing noticeable without making a point of looking and I would rather have that than an unsightly gap.

 

To paint or not to paint is a connundrum we have all resolved in our different ways. I elected to paint because I thought the black paint added some theatre - a bit of drama to what is after all a warship. 

 

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The gratings again fit perfectly straight out of the box. Fitting requires patience but little skill - Chuck has done the tricky bits for us.

 

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Moving on to the aft section of gratings I found the L shaped piece required a bit of adjustment. I can see where I went wrong. I allowed the head rails to sway outwards a little ( you can see it in the picture below - the starboard timberhead is leaning in a bit as is the port timberhead though the picture does not shoe it) having failed to notch the fancy rail adjacent to the cathead. That's annoying - I just took my eye off the ball in the final minute of the game but it's not the end of the world. It does however throw the laser cut pieces out a little.

 

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After that its a home run - just the heads and a tidy up. The bowsprit is not yet set at the finished angle - I don't want/can't secure the inboard end down until it is finally glued in and pegged. The gammoning rope is looking like it amy be a bit of a fiddle when the time comes.

 

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Thank you for looking by.

 

Fred

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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