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Question regarding order of Module Assembly on Plastic Models Warships with wooden decks


rcmdrvr

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I have just started working on the Revelle kit if the New Jersey (premium edition).  I contains alot of photo etch and also wooden deck.  I have spent time with the directions; which are the old kit directions for basic model build order and assembly and a separate set for the wooden deck and photo etch).  You have to bounce back and forth between the two sets of instuctions.  I have come across my first question.  When assembling a module which contains wooden decking would your order of build be (1) assemble and glue all the components of that module (including photo etch railings), (2) paint and finally (3) install the wooden decks.  An alternative order of build would be (1) assemble and glue all the components of the module but exclude the railings, (2) paint, (3) install the wooden decks, (4) form the railings to the proper shapes (5) paint railings and finally (6) install the railings.

 

I hope this question makes some sense.  I have roamed this forum and other internet sources looking for guidance but have not had a bunch of luck.  Hopefully one of you skilled plastic modelers out there finds this and lends a hand.

 

I will start a build log when I get a bit further down the road.

 

Thanks for the help.

Completed Builds:  USS Cairo by BlueJacket;  Nave Egizia by Amati;  Harriet Lane by Model Shipways

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You should try talking to  @RGL, he’s built/completed a fair number of plastic ships (and other models) with heaps of PE, resin and other aftermarket upgrades. I’m sure he’d be willing to share some insights into his processes. Have a search for some of his build logs on here (there are many).

 

Andy

Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati


Current Build:

USF Confederacy

 

 

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I built a few 1/700 and one 1/350 kit.  As much as I've wanted to be able to put the railings on first and then paint the full model, I've always ended up adding the railings after first painting and taping the deck (wooden or linoleum), and then painting the hull and superstructures.  Part of it was I was worried about getting the CA glue on the masking tape and causing a big mess.  I haven't used a wooden deck before, but I probably would do something similar.

 

Does your kit include a deck masking set, or will you have to create the painting mask yourself?  If the former, you could always see where the edges of the mask are and if you have enough room to safely glue the rails on.

 

I'd prefer to add the rails and then prime/paint the full ship because I've found that some paint flecks off when handling the pre-painted rails which then require touch ups.  And it seems like I'm going back a dozen times because I happen to find another dot or two where the bright brass is shining through.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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I have not much of an expertise, but recently finished the USS Arizona in 1/350 with loads of PE and a wooden deck. I pondered about the best practises like you in advance.
Your second option worked for me. I assembled and painted the hull with plastic decks and separately all the superstructures guns and cranes, etc. Then, I added the wooden deck and last added the pre-painted railings afterwards glued in place with CA. I made sure, they were pre bent to the best of fit, before priming and painting. 
I was a bit afraid of the adding of the railings, but was amazed, how easy it was, especially the larger parts around the main deck. The tiny sections around the superstructure were a bit harder to do.

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:  AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48

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DocRob, I just read you Arizona build.  The finished model looks great.  Your build log is very thorough and really helpful in my planning my build.  The New Jersey I am building does not contain the same level of PE that you encountered in the Eduard build but I thing there is enough to give me an education using PE in model building.  Thanks for the help.

Completed Builds:  USS Cairo by BlueJacket;  Nave Egizia by Amati;  Harriet Lane by Model Shipways

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Glad to be of help. I profited often from the experiences others documented in their build threads, I be lucky to give something back. I wish you luck with your New Jersey build and hope you do a WIP.

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:  AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48

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I should probably start another topic but here we go with another question.  I am toying around with a build of Revelle's New Jersey (premium edition).  I have been roaming about the internet looking for New Jersey photos (quite plentiful) and I cannot find any that show the wooden decks unpainted.  Most show the wooden decks painted a fairly dark grey.  Raises the question, should I paint the wooden decks?  Has anyone ever painted wooden decks provided in a plastic model?

Completed Builds:  USS Cairo by BlueJacket;  Nave Egizia by Amati;  Harriet Lane by Model Shipways

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To be a bit heretical:

In wooden ship models 1/96 is approaching the point where no species of wood will scale to a realistic degree.

Smaller than this is in the miniature range.  This is an area of art and illusion.

 

For steel, the materials do scale more realistically.  A steel ship built at a scale where wood works as a reasonable material (1:48, 1:64, 1:72) will produce a model that is untenable in size.

Actual wood veneer on a steel warship at 1:700  or even 1:350 is using a material that is far outside its physical ability.  It is being paired with materials that are within their physical abilities.  It is more a job for paint.  The inclusion of actual wood is an advertising scam.  It should be obvious if viewed realistically.

 

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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