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HMS Winchelsea by ssarchy08 (Archie) - 1/48


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Hi Everyone, 

 

I have a 10-year hiatus on building a model ship and thought this one would be a nice project to get back into it.  With so many build logs and the tutorials by Chuck, I should be able to complete this with minimal drama.  What a great idea chopping up the build into chapters with parts available for each stage, brilliant!

 

I have yet to buy the 1st installment from Syren Models but will be doing so in the next few days.  In the meantime, I loaded everything up into Autocad and transferred it into Fusion 360, and cut out the bulkheads on my CNC.  I have glued up the first three parts and am just designing the clamps in fusion to get everything set up on a nice flat board.  Here is the progress thus far.

 

I am really looking forward to this and want to thank everyone for the hundreds of hours of work put into this project, amazing!

CNC Cutout 1.jpg

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Welcome to the Winnie group, Archie!  It’s always great to see more builds.  It looks like you’re off to a great start.  I’m really interested in the CNC work.  Can you please tell us about your equipment and how it works?

Current Build:

HMS Winchelsea 1:48 (Group Project)

 

Completed Builds:

Virginia 1819 Artesania Latina - 1:41 

 

 

 

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Welcome to the group, always nice to see new Winchelsea starts. Your use of CNC will be interesting to follow. 

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: HMS Winchelsea
Completed Builds: HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

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Welcome to the group 'Archie"! I too took the route of fabricating my own bulkheads and "strong back". However I chose a CNC router route. It did not go well for a number of reasons.  A couple of cautions. I did not have the witness marks for the gun ports added in. I hand scribed them using the drawings. Are your bulkheads laser cribed? Secondly the drawings depict 1/4" bulkheads. The material I used was .015 thinner. Where this showed up was in the transom area. Chuck has cleverly designed the transom assembly parts so when assembled yield a well registered framework. Check your work carefully and if you go to "Stuntflers" build you will see he had to build out the last bulkheads to align correctly as they were .015 shy as well. These are just cautions that I learned the hard way.

Joe

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Thanks for the warm welcome gents.

 

Hi Matt, my CNC is a queen bee pro from good Ole Alie Express, it's been an interesting project figuring out how to work it all.  Many broken end mills later and I have a good grasp on it now.  As for the process, I have been using the pdf documents in the plans import into AutoCAD to convert them into DWG and then into Fusion 360 as this software has the GRBL processor to convert everything into the correct language for the CNC.  Its a slow process and I plan only using this for the frames/bulkheads and everything else I will order from Chuck at Syren Models.

 

Hi Joe, I am finding the same issue here with the converted files so I have done a few test cuts and the results have been varied.  I have almost finished the first sheet setup with the edited files which I have re-jigged a little to ensure the 6mm sheet we have here in Oz works with the files happily.

 

Thanks again for the welcome.

 

Archie

 

 

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I am sorry somehow I did not look close enough at themachining  method as I seemed to think it was a laser. So another comment is that I had some blow out on the fback side of the material from the router cutter. I had to add some "face material to that side for those that became "cheeks" of gun ports. It turned out that the .015 material thickness deficit became a non problem when compared to the drawings as I used .015 AYC.

Joe

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Hi Joe, No Worries.  I knew what you meant.

I too noticed the drawings when converted into mm did not equal 1/4 inch.  Now this may just have been the error when going from pdf to dwg and then into fusion.  I jumped into the design and adjusted it to ensure the frames would fit happily on the strongback.  I will go ahead and order each chapter from Chuck though I think to ensure there are no other conversion issues.

 

Thanks for the welcome everyone.

Archie

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I have a question for all you knowledgeable folks as I am looking at the parts for this build on Chuck's website and wanted to ask which timber is preferred for this project.

 

Cost isn't really an issue for me here but wanted to know what everyone's take is on the preferred material.

Have a great day

Archie

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Most of us are using Alaskan Yellow Cedar which Chuck supplements with boxwood for some parts. However there are some wonderful cherry ones as well and I know one of those supplemented with pear. All in what you want to do. 

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: HMS Winchelsea
Completed Builds: HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

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Costs are pretty much the same either way. AYC will have more of a contemporary model look to it, depending on how you treat it, but some prefer the warmer brown tones of the cherry. I think both look great ( see Rusty’s build log).

Current Builds: HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 - 5th rate 32 gun frigate (on hold for now)

 

                         HMS Portland 1770 Prototype 1:48 - 4th rate 50 gun ship

 

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Hi Archie.  Modeler's Sawmill is a good source for the wood, and they can mill it all for you so you are ready to go.  Their quality is outstanding.  Here is a link to the wood packages page of their site:  https://www.modelerssawmill.com/wood-packages.php.  This was not available when I started my Winchelsea.  I began by milling my own strips.  They came out just OK.  When I needed more to complete the gun deck. I ordered from Modeler's Sawmill and I wished I could turn back time to have them mill the strips for the hull planking.  

Current Build:

HMS Winchelsea 1:48 (Group Project)

 

Completed Builds:

Virginia 1819 Artesania Latina - 1:41 

 

 

 

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Morning All, 

 

Thanks for the heads-up and info for the timbers.  I was going to mill my own but as you say Matt I don't want to wish I had a year and a half into the build.  There is nothing worse than looking at a project and seeing an error or poorly fitting component once completed, noting most people will never even notice it, however, you see it every time you look at it.

 

I have made some progress this week and have completed CNC'ing all the frames and strongback.  I did, however, have to jump into Autocad and alter the frames slightly due to the width issue.  I am happy to report all frames now fit perfectly and there has been no change to the overall dimensions of the completed model.  I also made a workboard so I can move it around pretty easily, nothing better than sitting in the sun tinkering away with a hot brew.

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You can see some wonky frames in the images, this is due to nothing being glued together yet, a nice dry fit. Nothing has been sanded or tidied up yet.

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Well, that's the update thus far.  I have ordered packs 1 and 2 from Chuck and am just trying to secure some AYC for the build.  Chuck recommended the European supplier for us guys down under.  In the meantime, I will have to wait until the parts arrive.  No rush.

 

Edited by ssarchy08
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Morning Archie

 

Your choice of wood may come down to the quality of the timber you can obtain as much as the choice of wood. I built my Winnie in cherry and purchased the wood pre-cut (I don't have access to a table saw) from Germany and grew rather dis-satisfied with it as the build progressed.

 

I recently completed Syren's cutter Cheerful in boxwood from Hobbymill EU ( they have a website). The boxwood is gorgeous and flawlessly cut. I highly recommend both it and Hobbymill.

 

I have recently started another Winnie because I am not happy with the cherry version. I am buying the kit parts in AYC from Chuck - but I intend to use only those that will be painted using the remainder as a pattern to scratch build in boxwood. I have ordered the boxwood Winchelsea package from Hobbymill which the proprietor, a very nice fellow called Vahur Vannick (based in Estonia), cuts with permission from Chuck. It is quite expensive - 380 euros plus postage of 40 euros and whatever taxes get imposed at customs but for a project that will take so much time and commitment it is in my view well worth it.

 

Buying in the AYC parts and using them as a pattern  seems a reasonable half way house or introduction to scratch building. I do not neccessarily have the all the skills to translate a drawing in to a 3D part so having a pattern is invaluable.   

 

The AYC is very nice and has a close grain but it is  a bit white for my eyes.

 

Good luck whatever choice you make.

Fred

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Hi Fred, 

 

Thank you for taking the time to reply, much appreciated.

 

I think I may just go down that same route as I have selected to do mine out of AYC with all the parts from Chuck.  I agree with you as this is a long-term project the actual price per hour of enjoyment is pretty good.  Chuck also recommended Hobbymill EU as they will post to Australia.

 

There isn't much to report in regards to progress as I await the parts delivery.  Just some cleaning up of bulkheads and preparation for installation.  I must say I am really looking forward to this.  I might even purchase a 1/48 HMS Sharke to build in the meantime, to get me back into the swing of things.

 

Have a great day everyone and thanks for all the well wishes.

Archie

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The next and a very critical step with forever impact is fairing the hull. With a single planked ship it’s really important to get the fairing done well, I spent a week or more doing this. I don’t envy you this task with the plywood you used for the bulkheads and wish you the best in getting it done.  The tick marks for the ports and wales are important to include if you haven’t yet marked them. 
 

Glad you’re enjoying the project. 

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: HMS Winchelsea
Completed Builds: HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

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Hi again everyone,

 

Well, some progress here in Australia with a special delivery from the posty.  A nicely packaged boxed from Syren Models, oh yeah.

 

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The old garage is a little bit of a mess at the moment as I am having a massive cleanup and dumping all of the stuff I haven't looked at or used in ten years.

 

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The laser cutting is first rate I must say, and really nice timber as well, I am very happy I went with the cedar :)

 

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I am very excited to get started, it's Sunday here today, and am really looking forward to this build.  I'll post again a little later after I have made some progress. 

 

Have a great day everyone.

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Hi Everyone, 

 

Just a quick update today as I have had a few hours here and there to get stuck into Chapter 1 of this big beauty.  So far I have not encountered anything that has caused me any grief, must be down to the awesome instructions that come along with this group build, amazing value.

 

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The stem went together without any drama and leaving the char really does help with the realism.

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Another view of the unfinished stem section.  Please if anyone sees any problems shout out as its been 10 years since I built a model ship.

 

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Stem and false keel completed and now living in their new homes and finished with 1 coat of wipe on poly. Looks amazing.

 

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Completed the beveled edges to the false keel.

 

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Frames are installed, levelled, dried and ready for fairing. I need a few more paper clips I think.

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So far so good.  I have forgotten a couple of small items which I have made note of to get back to in the next few days.  I need to put in the fake bolts and chamfer the holes on the bow.  Smooth sailing pardon the pun thus far.  Really enjoying getting back into this hobby so thank you to all the fellows out there that have dedicated an enormous amount of time putting this group build together.

 

Have a great day

 

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Very nice progress Archie!

Did you taper the upper and front stem parts gradually from front to end?
It's not easy to see on your pictures for me, but it looks a bit as a rounded taper to my eye, specially on the third and last picture where they're glued on, tapered and in whipe-on-poly WOP.

I think it should be taperd just a little more and in a straight line from front to back.

I love your working space: very light and with fresh air! Much better than my dusty attic!

Frank.

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Edited by FrankWouts

Current builds on MSW:

HMS Winchelsea 1:48

Prior builds on MSW:

None

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