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Posted

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Hello, this is my ongoing project. Dundée Thonier was a type of tuna fishing boat in France during the early to mid-20th centuries.

 

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Actually, The AL's thonier Marie-Jeanne wasn't in my interest. I purchased the Heller's thonier Armor because of the beautiful box art.

 

While I was building the plastic kit, I felt limited by the small 1/125 scale. While I was searching reference for the thonier ships, I was surprised that the AL's 1/50 thonier has exactly the same hull as the Heller's. I decided to move to the AL's kit, but the painting will be the same as the Heller's thonier Armor. :D

 

By the way, my AL kit is outdated 22170. The newer 22175 kit has better box art with clearer instruction. I think AL may need an artist, rather than a photographer. ;) 

 

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Also, the Heller kit is very helpful, despite its small size. I referenced the hull's planking line.

 

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This is my best strategy for framing. I hope kit makers draw the check lines on frame parts.

 

 

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The AL's old kits tend to offer unreliable manuals and plans. As you see, the 1:1 plan paper didn't match with the kit's parts. Those small differences come together and form an ugly, twisted hull.

 

I made an effort to build straight hulls against the pervasive issues. The check lines on frame parts are my best solution, for now.

 

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Instead of laying a deck sheet, I used many short temporary batterns. I was able to set an accurate distance between frames, and the batterns offered better sight. 

 

* I recommend using hardwood-dark strips, such as walnut. The basswood-white strips are too weak for use of temporary battern.

 

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These square bars help to hold frames.

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The first planking was easy and smooth.

 

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After I filled half of the first planking layer, I removed the temporary batterns and placed a deck sheet.

 

There is one more error. As you see, the deck didn't fit the hull tightly.

 

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I needed a day to fix the problems.

 

 

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The result is extremly, enormously, gorgeously fine. It is the first hull I've ever made that didn't twist in any direction. In other words, "museum quality." :D 

Posted

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The plastic kit offers better examples than the AotS book. :D 

 

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Before I finish the first planking layer, I need some gap for bulwark parts. I placed 3mm thick strips under the deck.

 

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The first planking is done.

 

If I follow the manual, I need wood filler and paints. Instead of painting job, I decided to add second planking layer.

 

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I made exactly 0.70mm thick cherry sheets.

 

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The laser cutter is my best tool.

 

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I added nail holes to deck strips. :D Each hole has a 0.50mm diameter.

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This was very exciting and rapid progress. Because of the curved deck, it is important to lay each strip one by one. ( I failed last time when I made a larger laser-engraved large sheet.)

 

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Another "museum quality." 😆

 

Posted

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I added only part of keel parts. I didn't determine the stern shape yet.

 

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I used brass nails to clamp the bulwark parts.

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As you see, the transom of the AL kit is very different from the Heller's. Even newer 22175 AL kit has an all-flat transom. I spent a week to decide the transom shape. 

 

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I added wales to finish transom.

 

Be careful. The location of wales on the 1:1 plan is wrong. Please check the newer 22175 kit's manual. The upper line of the wale parts is the same as the deck's height.

 

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I compromised with the transom. My transom has a straight line, unlike the heller's.

 

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I finished rear keel and stern post.

 

It is no longer "museum quality." 🤔

Posted

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There is a little planking inside of bulwark.

 

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It is time to build the second planking layer.

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I traced the Heller kit. I didn't make good planking lines, so I modified it a little bit.

 

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After repeated work, I made every planking line. The upper section has 7 flat planks. The middle section has 4 planks with the twisted lines, and the bottom section has 5 planks.

 

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I'm running the second planking layer. I used the traditional spiling planking method.

 

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Because of wide stern post, I added stealer plank after the fifth plank.

 

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Alright. I finished two-thirds of sections.

Posted

I finished the port side.

 

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The lower section and the middle section are finished. The last section has 7 planking lines.

 

 

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The latest planking line is a little tricky. No clamping. I held it by hand.

 

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I slightly sanded the surface. I used a black oil pastel to show caulking. 

 

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After I sealed the surface using dewaxed shellac, I attached making tape to protect it. I'm already halfway through. :D 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Thanks for your comment, Yves. 

 

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I'm sorry about the long vacation. I have experienced long hiccups while dancing on inaccurate references.

 

Due to my high expectations, I referred to some internet manuals from Billing boats (BB580) and AL (22175 newer kit). Also, I checked videos of the real thonier on Youtube. They were confusing because they had only a fewer intersections. I was struggling between the three manuals and videos to build the best thonier.

 

I finally found the most reliable source, such as the AAMM monograph.
 

* More reliable reference list

https://boutique.aamm.fr/plan-thonier-marie-jeanne

https://planeteloisirs-bg.fr/index_fichiers/pages/bateau/marie-jeanne-1.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/2213003858

 

If you want to build a better thonier than any consumer kit, I recommend buying the AAMM monograph. Unfortunately, it is too late to buy the book because I want to wrap up this project this year.  😂

Posted (edited)

OK, let's wrap up my build log.

These are some tips I used.

 

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Printed templates

 

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The stock metal parts are made of steel, which is much difficult than brass or tin metal. After I broke several drill bits, I copied the parts using 3D resin printer.

 

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Also, the stock anchor wasn't good. I made an anchor, which the real thonier ships use.

 

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I simply painted sail battens. 

 

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It is very easy to produce rope hanks. 

 

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I mass-produced the hanks and applied them.

Edited by modeller_masa
Posted
Posted

Superb model. I love all the fishing rigs, clearly visible and artfully displayed.

I also like the lighter shades of the wood, which is in plain contrast with the dark woods usually provided in Spanish kits.

You made a little marvel of this rare kit.

 

Yves

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