HMS Sphinx by KurtH - Vanguard Models - 1/64 - First POB Model

[KurtH]

Time to glue on the outer patterns for the prow, keel, and stern post.

To insure proper alignment, locator pegs are provided which fit into the little slots you see in these patterns, and into the corresponding slots in the main patterns.  To get the closest color match with the outer pattern, I filed the char off the ends of these pegs.  I thought that the closer that match is, the fewer coats of white paint will be needed to cover them.   I also decided to simplify this process by gluing all the pegs into the outer patterns, making sure to remove any excess glue, then pressing the assembly face down on a clean flat surface to insure that the ends of the pegs are flush with the outer surface of the pattern.

This enables me to handle the pattern and the pegs as a single unit and "plug" it into the keel when I assemble it, glue, and clamp it.  It is so nice not to have any shift between the keel and the patterns as the clamps are applied!  Those pegs are great!  Once the glue has set it is just a matter of pressing the apposite pattern into place, allowing the protruding ends of the pegs to insert into their slots, gluing and clamping as before.  The efficacy of the design, the precision of the laser cutting, and the quality of the materials made this a straightforward trouble free process.  The pegs did protrude just a tad proud of the pattern surface, so I filed them down flush with the square end of one of my diamond files.  It was just the right size to file down the end of the peg without disturbing the pattern surface.

Here are the patterns glued in place:

There are modelers on MSW who can cut out and assemble the various components of the stem knee with absolute precision.  I am not one of them, so I appreciate the engraved detail of these patterns!

There is the current state of play:

[KurtH]

These are the outer planking patterns supplied in the kit:

They detail the planking above the wales.

After having been soaked in hot water for an hour, then bent and clamped to the hull and left to dry out for 24 hours, they are glued to the hull:

Looking ahead in the instruction manual, I see that the horizontal seams will be masked by the waist rail, and the vertical seam will be masked at the stern by the quarter galleries, and at the waist by one of the fenders.

[KurtH]

In addition to the planking patterns shown above, two strakes of pre-cut  pear planks are provided to get the modeler started on the remaining hull planking:

These are installed just below the planking patterns.  They were precisely cut and fit perfectly.  Even the forward ends butted up against the stem precisely, the angle being exactly right.  I recommend beveling this end to get an even better fit.

Now to do the rest of the second planking.  The instructions say that it can be done with a nipper without soaking.  That is obviously true of the prototype build illustrated in the instructions, but it seems to me that on my build, if the edge bending required is anything like it was on the first layer, I will need to soak these planks.  I did that with the forward planks shown above, and found that pear is a dream to work with when soaked.  Of course, I allowed ample time for them to dry out before installing them.  This may mean it will take more time to do the job, but I am in no hurry.  I will work slowly and carefully, and hopefully, I will end up with a reasonably presentable hull.

[Ronald-V]

Pearwood is indeed a beautiful wood to work with. Personally I do not pre-soak the planks, apart from the garboard strake which I kept in 1 length. The drying time seems to me something that would take a lot of time. I myself prefer an iron and plank nipper (edge bending with the "Chuck Method"). That is pretty fast and clean...but it just depends on what you feel comfortable with

 

[KurtH]

Thanks, Ronald, for your like and your advice.  The excellence of your planking job is certainly a testament to the efficacy of your method.  I do have a plank nipper which I will try out.  I will see how much the squeezing action required aggravates the arthritis in my hands.  I definitely should look up the "Chuck Method" for edge bending to see how that is done, as there is likely to be a lot of edge bending if my experience with the first layer is an indication of what the second layer will require.  To be sure, soaking will greatly increase the time required to complete the job, but I am in no hurry.

[ERS Rich]

Hi,

 

Your hull looks nice.

 

A couple of thoughts.

 

Steam, from an electric kettle, can be used to quickly bend dry planks.  

 

A lot of edge bending?  Check plank widths and tapering.  Planks are happiest when they just need to bend to lay on the frame, without being force pushed into its neighbor.  

 

Good luck

 

-Rich

 

 

 

[Ronald-V]

58 minutes ago, ERS Rich said:

A lot of edge bending?  Check plank widths and tapering.  Planks are happiest when they just need to bend to lay on the frame, without being force pushed into its neighbor.  

 

 

 

 

Maybe the first 5 planks or so would not require edge bending, but not sure how you would plank the rest of the bow without it?

And by edge bending you just remove the need of using force  

Edited October 23 by Ronald-V

[KurtH]

Thank you gentlemen for your input.

[ERS Rich]

Not following, To me edge bending is force to push a plank against its neighbor.

 

A plank shaped perfectly, will curve and lay flat on the frame, and fit against its neighbor without gaps.  If CA is used on the frames, the plank can be fixed to the frame with downward pressure and pressure towards its neighbor.  Glue along the edge will adhere to the neighbor.

 

There is a post in my Constitution build log about planking without clamps.

 

Ok, say you work a plank for awhile, and it fits well, maybe a small gap between it and the neighbor plank, you could go ahead, install it, and use a clamp to close the gap. I’ve been impatient, and done this.  The problem now is the just installed plank now has a curve, instead of a smooth line, along the free edge.

 

Best to leave the gap and fill it in, or make a new plank.

[Ronald-V]

21 minutes ago, ERS Rich said:

Not following, To me edge bending is force to push a plank against its neighbor.

 

A plank shaped perfectly, will curve and lay flat on the frame, and fit against its neighbor without gaps.  If CA is used on the frames, the plank can be fixed to the frame with downward pressure and pressure towards its neighbor.  Glue along the edge will adhere to the neighbor.

 

There is a post in my Constitution build log about planking without clamps.

 

Ok, say you work a plank for awhile, and it fits well, maybe a small gap between it and the neighbor plank, you could go ahead, install it, and use a clamp to close the gap. I’ve been impatient, and done this.  The problem now is the just installed plank now has a curve, instead of a smooth line, along the free edge.

 

Best to leave the gap and fill it in, or make a new plank.

Ah then we mean the same thing 👌

[KurtH]

Slowly but surely, the second planking is proceeding.

Yeah I know.  I did not do due diligence in matching plank colors.  If I do not like how end result looks between the water line and the wales, I can always adopt the color scheme shown in the Pandora AOTS and paint that area black.  Nice to have a plan B just in case.